A Subaru '09 with 60.000 miles has a damaged piston. The mechanic first said that I need to get a new engine for 5 grand. Now he is looking for other optionsThis car can be sold -in good condition- for about 12.000 but without the engine is worth 4-5.000 should I put a new engine to a 4 year old car? Why can't I change the piston and fix whatever other damage it might have?
View 9 RepliesI get check engine codes p0301 p0302 p0303 and p0304. Sometimes just one or two sometimes all four. It only happens in fifth gear at or above 2800 rpm. There is no noticeable misfire; my gas mileage is 25mpg and like the advice below, I've changed the wires, and spark plugs but not the coils nor the injectors. I've reset the codes numerous times; it comes back regularly but only in fifth gear at the higher speeds.
The car: Subaru legacy AWD wagon 1999, 2.5 liter 5 speed manual transmission.
To state the obvious, checking for electrical problems is a process of elimination. I've included some points I got elsewhere online to narrow down the cause. What is not discussed, but has been brought up by parts salesman are the sensors. There's five, a cam and a crank sensor as well as three speed sensors. Which sensor that's failing would cause such specific engine codes.
Talking points:
"for piston misfires If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back."Check engine light comes back on
"If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs)."There are no noticeable symptoms.
"Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable)."Done.
"Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced."It passed smog with flying colors. I'm not sure how to check the coil packs but since it doesn't actually seem to miss, I'd think to look elsewhere. -- maybe I'm wrong here.
"I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors." Same conclusion as above.
So, my dealer insists the oil be changed every 2500-3000 miles. That can't be right, right? Can change it less frequently. It is important to note I have put nearly 12,000 miles on the car in 8 months.
View 16 Replies1995 Subaru Legacy wagon.
If I drive up a steep hill for 5-10 minutes, the engine will smoke copiously.
It's fine when I drive 200 miles over lightly rolling terrain.
The temperature gauge doesn't get above medium.
It's been doing this for at least two years (since I bought it from a friend).
What's the story?
So after hitting a deer in my car a few weeks ago I fixed it and drove it around town a little bit and it ran fine. But 15 mins onto the highway the next day it overheated. It was out of oil, which I had checked a couple days before when I fixed it. so after it had cooled down I filled it up with Coolant and oil and started driving it home. the roads where bad and I wanted to go easy on the engine so I took it at about 25-30 MPH. as I was driving it would slowly overheat, but I could get it to start cooling down but dropping it into neutral and just letting it idle while I coasted. I had to get off the frontage road and take the highway the last couple miles before town so I turned the engine off and let the fan run for about 20 mins, and started off again, the weird thing was when I got on the highway I was doing about 55Mph and the engine didn't try to overheat at all, but as soon as I got back in town and started doing 25 again it started overheating again. another thing that is happening is that the car will blow air through the heating system but won't heat it. I realize that was long but I'm really at a loss. I replaced the head gaskets less than a year ago so it's not from worn gaskets.
View 4 RepliesAs the title says, my car has been leaking oil. I noticed it several months ago and took it to a shop and they said that it it might be leaking from the engine seals. I think they replaced all but the rear seal, because that would have cost a lot more because they would have to pull the engine.
It seemed ok for a while (or maybe I just didn't notice), but now I've noticed that it continues to drip oil, but since it hasn't been fixed by replacing the other seals, I am hesitant to bring it back to the guys who worked on it the first time.
I looked under the car and hood and tried to see if I could tell where the oil is leaking from but it's not apparent to me. I looked at the oil pressure sending switch and, as far as I can tell, I don't see any dripping there, although it does look kinda grimy around that area, but it's hard to tell if it's oil or just run-of-the-mill dirt.
I took a few pics : mauk52.jpg1600x1200
I bought my Subaru in 2004 with 14,000 miles on it. The check engine light began coming on soon thereafter. The Subaru dealer has replaced my catalytic converter (the so-called problem) -- 3 TIMES up to 85,000 miles. The check engine has continued to come on and it goes off since then. Mostly, it's on, but now and then, it goes off. I bought my own diagnostics kit because I got tired of taking it in every time the light came on. I'm told it's the usual problems plus they usually have me get the oxygen sensor repaired. I've also been told to make sure my gas cap is tightly closed. Still the check engine light continues to come on and now and then it goes off (it's currently "on").
View 4 RepliesAll lights/radio etc. come on but my car won't start at all. There's a leak in the engine (see photo) and I'm wondering if this is the problem...or an additional problem and if it's something I could fix on my own.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1996 subaru legacy (2.2L) wagon. A couple of years ago, we had to replace the engine after a head gasket issue. A couple months after this replacement, this issue developed. The car would be idling normally, and just quit. No rough idling, no warning lights - just on / off. It only occurs with the engine idling (stop lights, parked, etc.) and will occasionally be proceeded by a rough feeling transmission shift while driving (especially between 40- 55 mph), though I do not know if it is related.
This issue is intermittent, and does not seem to occur until the engine has been running for at least some time. Normally the car will restart immediately, with a flashing A/T oil temp light that will disappear after a few seconds; however, sometimes it requires more attempts to restart, lately. I have taken the car in a few times, but, unfortunately, the subaru dealership could not replicate the issue. It is beginning to happen more frequently now, and I am about ready to take the car back in. What it could be.
I have cleaned the MAF sensor per instructions already - that seemed to work for a few weeks. I was thinking of attempting to clean the idle air control valve or replacing the fuel filter.
93' subaru legacy wagon hard starting, fans won't shut off check eng light on, killed old battery, put in new battery.car started right up,no check eng light,fans off, everythings fine.uhoh fans on light on now lights off,everythings fine.next day car won't start eng check light on fans running non stop, original problenm is back.battery will probably be dead soon.
View 4 Replies160K miles. Sometimes starter doesn't seem to engage with the engine and the engine won't start unless i put it in neutral and floor the gas pedal. Then it shakes, rattles, sputters and smokes comes out but it starts like the car in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (for the oldsters here). Happens about every third start. Once i had a 67 Plymouth where every once in a while i would have to hold the butterfly open (with a stick) on the carburetor. I have to take it and get it fixed. So odd that it is not every start. Happening with more frequency.
View 7 Replies1994 Subaru Legacy, 2.2 L 4-cylinder, front wheel drive, automatic transmission... Trouble started, when I let the gas tank get very low, drove the car 3 less than one mile to the gas station from a cold start and filled the tank to full. As I pulled out of the station onto the road the car died as I hit the gas. When I tried to start it again it died right away. Got the car into a safe spot and couldn't get it to start until I primed the fuel pump about a dozen times.
Managed to get the car home. After this, the car drove around town for a few days without any issues. Thinking back it may have been a little hesitant on the gas, but didn't start stalling again for a few days. This time it would stall while idling as well as when accelerating in drive. The next serious episode occurred on the highway. The engine was choking as I drove over 60mph.
I pulled off into a rest area and the car died as I parked. Rather than try to start it again I just called a tow truck and called it a day. Now, even after the replaced parts, it will start just fine and idle ok until I hit the gas pedal then it will idle a much lower rpm and sputter. If I shift into drive and hit the gas it dies immediately. If I let it idle long enough it usually dies eventually.
Replaced the fuel filter. No change. Replaced the fuel pump. No change. Replaced the ignition coil. No change. Spark plugs and cables replaced less than a year ago. I have driven this car from Eugene, Oregon to Denver, Colorado and back about three times in the last 6 months, so the long distances could be a factor. Other than that I drive it occasionally (not every day) for short distances in town.
"93 Subaru legacy 175,000 miles: Just picked it up yesterday after timing belt/water pump replacement. Now it makes a high pitched whining noise sounds like from engine, the mechanic called it a whistle, but it ain't no whistle and wasn't there before.
View 3 RepliesMy car will drive fine, then @ 60 mph or above sometimes it will sputter and the check engine light will blink on. I brought it to my mechanic and plugged it in. Miss-fire on some spark plugs. They replaced all spark plugs and wires. The car is sill doing the same thing. My mechanic plugged it in again and now just a miss fire on #2 plug. (even after new wires and plug) Only seems to happen once the car is warmed up. If left sitting for 15 hrs the check engine light goes off completely. Only to come on again, after driven 25 or more miles. What could be wrong?
View 10 RepliesThe car has 175,000 miles on it and is having issues starting but only sometimes. The starter turns over but the engine doesn't catch. Usually if I open the hood, pretend to know what I'm doing, and wait a bit, it will start within 10 minutes or less (sometimes it takes a few tries.) I hear a click when the starter is going and the engine isn't catching, very much like the click I hear if I'm driving with the AC on and the AC needs to draw power. I've recently had a tune-up including new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. The mechanic can't figure out what's wrong (doesn't seem to be the battery or the battery terminals). The car even started up FINE at 40 below. I can't really see a pattern to it.
View 3 RepliesSo a bit of background, I'm not the original owner, it has about 190,000 miles on it, and is almost definitely due for an oil change. Anyways, I was driving home, the car was running fine, I got into the left turn lane and had to come to a complete stop in the intersection. As I was about to turn, I felt the steering lock up, and there was no throttle response, I was in a bit of a panic so I didn't see if the engine shut off but several warning lights went on including the check engine light. I turned the key into the off position then restarted the car and it worked fine for the small remainder of the drive. What caused this or how I could prevent it from happening again?
View 3 RepliesMy mechanic can't find the problem. Engine light comes on. Along with the flashing cruise control. His diagnostic doesn't show him the exact problem as the voltage changes. He has checked everything related, changed out the bank 2 sensor 1 oxygen sensor, but can't find the problem. I don't know the diagnostic code. But he says that it doesn't give him an exact code. Can only the dealer do this? Car runs fine.
View 10 RepliesWhat would cause the vechile to die randomly, while driving? have check all ground wires, coolant, spark plugs, air filter, and changed fuel filter. no check engine lights come on.
View 2 RepliesMy 1994 Subaru Legacy has been running unbelievably smoothly for the 7 years that I have had it. It has just over 160,000 miles on it, and our mechanic suggested that we change the timing belt as preventative maintenance. Since that incredible investment (worth over 50% of the car's value), I have had one problem after another. Once running, the car runs very well, but getting it started is another story. It takes several tries to start, it shakes back and forth, it makes horrible noises, and once the engine finally turns over, it is hesitant to engage the gears. The mechanic thought it may be the cam sensors, so he replaced them. That made absolutely no difference. What could be wrong with this car that was perfectly find until the timing belt was changed?
View 4 RepliesWhen I turn my engine off and remove the key from the ignition, my front and back parking lights remain on. So every time I turn off my car I have been disconnecting the negative post so the lights turn off. How do I resolve this? 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback....
View 4 RepliesAcquired a 1997 Subaru Legacy a few weeks ago. Drive it for a prolonged time in the heat, at speed, and you can smell warm coolant from the engine compartment. And the temperature gauge hovers in the middle of the dial, no matter what.
My wife explained the smell away by guessing she'd spilled coolant when she topped it up. But it's been weeks since she did that. Also - this sucker drinks coolant. I'm guessing every 2-3 days I'm adding another gallon.
It occurs to me that ... maybe .. a leak on top of a pipe so the coolant doesn't drip out, but the loss of pressure (from the hole) causes the fluid to boil and flash out? This might explain the 'higher than I'd like to see' operating temperature.