Subaru - Legacy :: 1999 - Car Abruptly Stopped After Loud And Huge Clank
Jan 25, 2014
My 1999 Subaru Legacy (with a manual transmission) has almost 200,000 miles on it, and has been almost entirely problem free. Until today. As I drove up a steep hill (which I drive every day), the car didn't feel quite right--as if it was struggling a bit. Then, after reaching the top and driving on for about 4 more blocks, I suddenly heard an extremely loud and heavy clank, at which point the car abruptly stopped. I could turn on the engine, but that was all. The car wouldn't budge; in fact it could not even be pushed to the side of the road if it was put in neutral.The tow truck driver thought it was probably the transmission, but he wasn't sure and also said he had never encountered anything quite like this.
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The middle heating vents on my 1999 Subaru Legacy sedan stopped working recently. The other vents (by the window, defroster and floor) work fine. What might be wrong and how to fix it? The car has nearly 170K miles and I need to keep it running.
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Just bought a 2013 Subaru legacy sport. Within a week the car stopped 5 times while I was driving. There were no dash lights and all gauges were on zero. Had to restart the car each time. I Had it towed back to the dealership. They had the car 4 days and said they drove it 25 miles highway and stop and go. They said the car never just stopped while they were driving and they are giving it back to me tomorrow. I am afraid to drive this car. I will be driving highway to get home.
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I purchased a new Outback Limited (2.5) in April of this year. I've got a service appointment coming up next week for an oil change anyway, and I noticed that the road noise from the sunroof is very loud.
I own an `09 Legacy Limited which also has a sunroof and it's not even close in terms of loudness.
When I called to make my service appointment, I was told that this is really "normal" for the sunroof, and I obviously don't think so.
My Outback has a sunroof air deflector which might be causing the problem - none of my other cars have had this option and it came with it when I purchased it. I'm considering removing it, but I want to be sure this is the cause rather than a problem with the sunroof itself.
Has driven an `11 Outback with a sunroof (with or without an air deflector), and if you have, is it noticably louder than other cars you've driven?
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One of my headlights has stopped working on my 1999 Subaru. Do I need to replace the entire headlight assembly or is it just a bulb? Approximately how much should it cost to fix? 1999 Subaru Legacy sedan
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I get check engine codes p0301 p0302 p0303 and p0304. Sometimes just one or two sometimes all four. It only happens in fifth gear at or above 2800 rpm. There is no noticeable misfire; my gas mileage is 25mpg and like the advice below, I've changed the wires, and spark plugs but not the coils nor the injectors. I've reset the codes numerous times; it comes back regularly but only in fifth gear at the higher speeds.
The car: Subaru legacy AWD wagon 1999, 2.5 liter 5 speed manual transmission.
To state the obvious, checking for electrical problems is a process of elimination. I've included some points I got elsewhere online to narrow down the cause. What is not discussed, but has been brought up by parts salesman are the sensors. There's five, a cam and a crank sensor as well as three speed sensors. Which sensor that's failing would cause such specific engine codes.
Talking points:
"for piston misfires If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back."Check engine light comes back on
"If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs)."There are no noticeable symptoms.
"Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable)."Done.
"Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced."It passed smog with flying colors. I'm not sure how to check the coil packs but since it doesn't actually seem to miss, I'd think to look elsewhere. -- maybe I'm wrong here.
"I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors." Same conclusion as above.
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My '99 Legacy is far from quiet, but yesterday I heard a new -- and somewhat alarming -- noise.
Roughly two-thirds of the way through a four-hour drive, I started to hear a rattling or grinding sound coming from the front of the car, perhaps closer to the driver's side than the passenger's. It sounded as if a tin soup can or paint can were hitting the road, but when I popped my head under the car, nothing was hanging loose.
I hear the rattling sound as I begin to accelerate, and only when I have my foot on the gas -- when I let off, it's perfectly quiet. What I haven't been able to determine is whether the noise goes away after I reach a higher speed, or whether the sound of the usually loud engine drowns it out. The noise is most acute around 1500-2000 rpm whether it's in gear, or whether it's in neutral and I'm revving the engine.
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I have a 99 Subaru Legacy Wagon with just over 196,000 miles in it. Over the past few days I have had a noise coming out of what seems to be my right front wheel. It is a clicking sound that increases with speed, and is only when I turn and have my foot on the gas. Other than the noise there seems to be no other symptoms.
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The car has about 142,000 miles. Is the clutch on this car adjustable? My repair files indicate it was "adjusted" a couple times, $40 each time. Now I think I might need a new one: it seems to be slipping, making some noise in 3rd, and in 5th.
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My 1999 Subaru Legacy has a couple of rust holes in the hood. Unfortunately it's from the back and not easily fixed without welding.
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As I was driving home the other day, I noticed the steering wheel on my 99 Subaru Legacy (130,000+ miles) became considerably stiffer than ever before. I pulled into my driveway (where, incidentally, the wheel loosened up) and checked the power steering fluid. Unsurprisingly, it was low.
I haven't been on the road since, but I did turn the car around in the driveway. Aside from the wheel gently stuttering or pausing initially (it's done this when cold for a while now -- I always assumed it was a loose belt or something) the wheel seemed normal.
I made an appointment with a mechanic and described my symptoms. He said he'd have to take a look but suspected it was a bad power steering pump. Is this the only possibility? Could it be a bad belt or a leak somewhere in the system? If it is the pump, how much should I expect to pay to have it fixed?
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My rear tires (Nokian) on my Subaru Legacy 1999 all wheel drive car are noisy and chopped after only 18,000 miles (tires were in front for 4,000 miles; at that point I had to get two new tires which were put in front). My mechanic does not recommend rotation so they haven't been rotated. No, I don't know why. So now they are chopped but have lots of tread.
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I had plugs and wires changed to try clear code. Car seemed to do some better but while trying to go up a steep hill car started stuttering and jerking. Power went out of car and check engine light started blinking fast.after let the car sit for bout 45mins car started running fine again and light stopped flashing but remained on. Code read cylinder2 misfire again.
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I have a newly purchased 2000 subaru outback automatic. I just busted my back doing new front CV Axels, Inner/Outer tie rods with boots and front tires with alignment. The other day when coming to a stop at a intersection she shut off rather abruptly. She started up again right away but its happened a few times. The general consensus is that this typically is an indication of an electrical problem but I have also heard transmission fluid issues and perhaps an air sensor. I plan to do my transmission fluid and see if that does the trick.
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I had a bad tear in my front left CV Boot, so I went to have it replaced by a local shop (non-VW). he had an issue getting the CV joint apart to get the boot off, after 2 hours of fighting he got it apart only to have damaged the splines inside. Long story short they ended up replacing my front left axle. That's no problem....but now I have a definite 'tick' (not a loud **clank**) every time I hit a little bump or turn the wheel back and forth repeatedly. What could be causing this?
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I just posted how happy I have been with my 2004 GTI 1.8t, then something strange happened. I was coming up to a light at night, turned on my turn signal and hit the brakes. The engine stopped abruptly and then began running fine without a restart. It was only for a split second. The lights went out, car died and began to run again very quickly. I noticed later that the clock had changed to the wrong time. I have noticed that lately at night the headlights dim slightly when I brake. That's the only clue. New battery, Alternator checks out fine.
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I drive a 2006 F-150. I'm new to the forum and already found some good info on the annoying tick coming from my 5.4.
I have recently purchased a ski boat and lately when towing my boat and coming to a stop I feel as light movement coming from the rear of the truck that feels like something slides forward slightly. When I accelerate "it" slides back and if I accelerate quickly, "it" makes a loud clank noise.
I have ruled out hitch, receiver, ball, anything from the boat/trailer etc... It is coming from the transfer case/ spare tire area under the truck and it only appears to do it (or to where it is noticeable) while towing the boat.
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So this phenomenon only happens when I try to rapidly open my throttle but what happens is that I feel a huge bucking in the rear while I'm accelerating.
This bucking makes a loud thud noise and I was wondering if this is normal considering the circumstances under which this occurs.
If I can guess what's happening I think my engine doesn't have enough air and when I rapidly push down the accelerator I'm trying to force in air and fuel and the result is a rapid combustion which causes the bucking effect that I'm experiencing.
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I drive a 2000 Subaru Legacy and the radiator fan does not always come on. This sometimes makes the car run hot but has not (yet) put it into the "danger zone" overheating. It seems to happen if the car is in stop and go traffic and it's hot outside. If I'm driving down the highway or the weather is cool it doesn't happen.
I checked the fuses (yes, even the ones under the hood) and they are all fine. I am just curious if there is a sensor that could be the problem or if it is more likely the thermostat. It didn't quite fit the descriptions I found for thermostat but I'm a broke college student trying to keep an old car on the road, not a Subaru mechanic
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I need to lube the speedo cable on my Suburu legacy 1993 does the cable come out from the speedometer end.?Also what the best lube to use for the cable,also any pitfalls to avoid.
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My Subaru was violently shuddering. I think the cold weather has made it worse. It seems to just be when I accelerate. I'm not sure if it's the CV joints or the rack and pinion.
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