Subaru - Legacy :: 1995 - Starter Turns Over But The Engine Does Not Catch
Mar 14, 2011
The car has 175,000 miles on it and is having issues starting but only sometimes. The starter turns over but the engine doesn't catch. Usually if I open the hood, pretend to know what I'm doing, and wait a bit, it will start within 10 minutes or less (sometimes it takes a few tries.) I hear a click when the starter is going and the engine isn't catching, very much like the click I hear if I'm driving with the AC on and the AC needs to draw power. I've recently had a tune-up including new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. The mechanic can't figure out what's wrong (doesn't seem to be the battery or the battery terminals). The car even started up FINE at 40 below. I can't really see a pattern to it.
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160K miles. Sometimes starter doesn't seem to engage with the engine and the engine won't start unless i put it in neutral and floor the gas pedal. Then it shakes, rattles, sputters and smokes comes out but it starts like the car in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (for the oldsters here). Happens about every third start. Once i had a 67 Plymouth where every once in a while i would have to hold the butterfly open (with a stick) on the carburetor. I have to take it and get it fixed. So odd that it is not every start. Happening with more frequency.
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My 1994 Subaru Legacy has been running unbelievably smoothly for the 7 years that I have had it. It has just over 160,000 miles on it, and our mechanic suggested that we change the timing belt as preventative maintenance. Since that incredible investment (worth over 50% of the car's value), I have had one problem after another. Once running, the car runs very well, but getting it started is another story. It takes several tries to start, it shakes back and forth, it makes horrible noises, and once the engine finally turns over, it is hesitant to engage the gears. The mechanic thought it may be the cam sensors, so he replaced them. That made absolutely no difference. What could be wrong with this car that was perfectly find until the timing belt was changed?
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So I have a 95 Legacy sedan, FWD. It's been a kind of problematic car, and the engine was replaced about 5 years ago (I assume with an old unit, but I'm not sure though because though I was in the family I wasn't driving it then). But, it's held up and has continued to be at least roadworthy. But recently, it's developed an issue where the engine will just randomly die while I'm on the road. All/most of the dash indicator lights come on, but if I shift it into neutral and turn the key, it'll come right back up. Occasionally it'll die again almost immediately, but usually it'll be fine for at least a while. And anecdotally, It seems to happen more frequently at lower revs such as idling at a red light (though will occasionally happen while I'm moving), and when the engine is cold - generally once I've driven around for a while, it's not a problem anymore.
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I have a 1995 Ford Ranger, manual shift. It always starts when cold, but sometimes -- very sporadic -- it will not start after I've gone somewhere. This has happened maybe 8 times over the past 18 months or so. Always, after sitting a while, it starts right up as though nothing happened. Several months ago I left it with a mechanic for an entire week, but he could never get it to act up. Of course.
In browsing through these discussions, I've seen the "starter/clutch interlock switch" mentioned. Here is my question, though. Would the starter still crank if that was the problem? or does that switch stop the starter from engaging?
When mine acts up, the starter cranks, the engine turns over ... it just acts like it's not getting fuel. Is that a starter/clutch interlock switch issue? Or something else?
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My 1995 Legacy is slipping in reverse while backing up an incline. On level ground it seems fine. I Changed the fluid, but it's still doing it. Forward gears seem fine. It's an automatic transmission.
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My boyfriend has 95 subaru legacy L 2.2 that has issues. NEW: coil pack, fuel pump, spark plugs n wires, battery. (I forget the rest)
Background: While running the car almost out of gas (as usual) it starts to run rough, just thinking it was the gas, he gets gas and heads home but it does not fix the roughness. It stalls in driveway (lucky). A friend brings over obd scanner. Reads codes for cylinder 1&4 misfire. It starts and runs but sounds like crap. I tested the coil pack and the reading was bad, so got that and sparks n wires. Cleaned a bunch of fuel related parts (its been a while) and took out injector but apparently it was not back in all the way because fuel came spray/flooding out while another friend had a sparkplug out and was testing it for spark!! (luckily he was not harmed).
After this it has not started. We did get the injector back in all the way, and waited to work on it figuring it was flooded and that time would work. Next was the fuel pump, yay i can hear it now, boo still didn't work. Now car clicks. Ok, starter out, tested THREE times at advance auto, and once at napa. They both say it is good. (I have my doubts though, it sounded slow to start up to me). Battery is also tested, bad cell. Checked flywheel, Put starter back in and new battery with 625 cold cranking amps. Car cranks now, but no start. Clicking noise when crankshaft turns.
Q: Do the engine is still flooded?
Q: Did the flooding foul the new spark plugs?
Q: WHY is the crankshaft clicking?
Q: WHERE is the nearest cliff?
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This past monday morning I got in my 05 Legacy GT w/ 82,000 miles. When I turned the key it acted as if the starter engaged for a second then disengaged and made the typical motor winding sound. I tried it several more times with the same result. So I reluctantly called my local repair shop and had it hauled over for what I thought was possibly a bad starter. The mechanic went out to check it to see what it was doing and when he did, it started right up…..!! He said that when it started it ran as if it had been flooded for a minute or two then cleared up. Throughout the day he drove it around and started it about 20 times and said it “appears” to be ok. It’s a small shop that I trust with my other cars but they don’t have the tech to pull codes on a subaru. So my question is, what was the cause of this issue? Neutral Switch? Cam Sensor? or a Fluke?
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My 2015 Subaru Legacy will randomly downshift, when in Automatic, only on LEFT turns! The dealership says there is a sensor that is "overly sensitive" but now it is a safety concern when pulling out into traffic. I never know if it will occur. Most of the time it will shift back into automatic on its own but there have been times where i have had to use the shifter paddles to shift up then it will kick back into automatic. It only has 31,000 miles, bought it used with 18,000 miles. I have also noticed if I don't accelerate slowly, it seems slow to shift automatically and reduce RPM's. I don't want 36,000 mile warranty to bypass without this resolved.
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My mother in law gave her 1995 Subaru to us last year. She told me not to use the parking brake because the wheels seize up and to drive it often. We did not need a third car and every third day of not driving it the rear wheels would seize up which would require me (once in the snow) to jack the car up, take off the rear wheels, and tap the drum with a large hammer. Doing this would cause a huge mess because of the rust which fell onto the driveway. So recently I told her that the drums, shoes, and most likely the brake lines needed replacing and I would not pay for that as I didn't need the car anyway. Her response was that If I had driven the car every so often then it would have been fine. At which point I raised the safety issue with the braking and so forth which she flat out rejected saying it was fine when she drove it. Now I'm being blamed for the problems with her old neglected car. Should I just have the thing towed away or try and get it fixed?
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Ok. I replace my alternator on my 1995 Subaru Legacy Ls. Everything went great. Last thing I did was to connect the positive cable on the battery. When I did it sparked alittle. Well when I got into the car to start it nothing. Turn the key nothing. The knob on the shifter won't go in to get out of park. Neighbor checked my battery said it was fine. But nothing will come on. Nothing.No lights. I had problems with my ignition before. Do you think my ignition went out? Honestly don't know what to think. Some one told me that these cars have a secondary security system. If it goes on you cannot move the knob on the shifter and when you turn the key on nothing?
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I have a 1995 Subaru legacy wagon, 176K miles. The reverse went out about 10 months ago; all the other gears shift fine and it runs great. Do I have a bad transmission or could it possibly be some kind of switch or solenoid? I have searched the net for hours and keep coming up empty.
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I have a '95 Subaru Legacy L Wagon AWD 5-speed manual shift. There a new noise that seems to be coming from the front half of the car. I can't really describe the noise, but it only happens when all three conditions are met. If they are, the noise is continuous.
1.) The car has to be in gear--not neutral. But it doesn't matter which gear. I tried revving the engine in neutral, but nothing happens.
2.) I have to be accelerating on the gas petal. If I let off the gas--even if the engine and vehicle speed haven't yet dropped--there's no noise.
3.) Engine speed needs to be at or above 2,000 RPM. It gets louder at higher engine speeds, but it's pretty much proportional to the "normal" noises at higher speeds.
What might be causing this?
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I have a 2002 Subaru legacy wagon, 185k miles, 5 speed manual, thumping noise when making sharp turns at slow speed, happens only after I drive over about 10 miles, does not happen after the car sits for any length of time.
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Driving home in my 04, and it just died, no caution lights, still have battery power, and starter is engaging but engine wont catch, like no fuel or spark. Found no burnt out fuses, and checked the fuel pump relay. Pulled out the back seat, turned key and heard the fuel pump, so that is working, replaced the crackshaft position sensor, still no engine start.
Over 130k miles, 1.6l
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We have a 2003 Subaru Legacy named Penny. Lately she's been "thumping" when we make slow tight turns -- usually when pulling into or out of a parking spot. This is less of a noise, more of a sensation. Thumping and bumping as if the front tires are flat, but that's not the case. To complicate matters, it doesn't seem to happen first thing in the morning. Starts showing up after a drive of 30 - 40 minutes and continues to get worse the longer we drive throughout the day. Driving straight is fine, less sharp turns also fine. Mechanic guessed axle and replaced both front axles last week. But the problem persists. We are independent musicians, traveling often, and NEED this car to drive reliably!
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I have a 1995 Subaru Impreza that I have been nursing along for the past 14 years. Recently, if I drive for a decent length of time (~10 miles), turn the car off to go into a store, and then try to start it up again, it won't start. It turns over fine, but never fully starts. If I let it sit for 20-30 minutes, it will start back up again. The temperature gauge reads normal--between hot and cold. Is there another temperature sensor that might be malfunctioning, telling the car that the engine is too hot to start? Where/what is this called?
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I've been watching my mother's 1976 Fiat convertible this summer. It had been taken to the shop about 6 weeks ago and it's been running fine without any problems. I had to leave for about three weeks and now the car will not start.
When I turn the key in the ignition with the clutch engaged, the engine turns, but pressing down on the gas pedal has no effect. The engine doesn't rev nor does it catch. There is gas in the tank and clean oil. I checked all the connections I didn't find anything loose.
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1995 Subaru Legacy wagon.
If I drive up a steep hill for 5-10 minutes, the engine will smoke copiously.
It's fine when I drive 200 miles over lightly rolling terrain.
The temperature gauge doesn't get above medium.
It's been doing this for at least two years (since I bought it from a friend).
What's the story?
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So after hitting a deer in my car a few weeks ago I fixed it and drove it around town a little bit and it ran fine. But 15 mins onto the highway the next day it overheated. It was out of oil, which I had checked a couple days before when I fixed it. so after it had cooled down I filled it up with Coolant and oil and started driving it home. the roads where bad and I wanted to go easy on the engine so I took it at about 25-30 MPH. as I was driving it would slowly overheat, but I could get it to start cooling down but dropping it into neutral and just letting it idle while I coasted. I had to get off the frontage road and take the highway the last couple miles before town so I turned the engine off and let the fan run for about 20 mins, and started off again, the weird thing was when I got on the highway I was doing about 55Mph and the engine didn't try to overheat at all, but as soon as I got back in town and started doing 25 again it started overheating again. another thing that is happening is that the car will blow air through the heating system but won't heat it. I realize that was long but I'm really at a loss. I replaced the head gaskets less than a year ago so it's not from worn gaskets.
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As the title says, my car has been leaking oil. I noticed it several months ago and took it to a shop and they said that it it might be leaking from the engine seals. I think they replaced all but the rear seal, because that would have cost a lot more because they would have to pull the engine.
It seemed ok for a while (or maybe I just didn't notice), but now I've noticed that it continues to drip oil, but since it hasn't been fixed by replacing the other seals, I am hesitant to bring it back to the guys who worked on it the first time.
I looked under the car and hood and tried to see if I could tell where the oil is leaking from but it's not apparent to me. I looked at the oil pressure sending switch and, as far as I can tell, I don't see any dripping there, although it does look kinda grimy around that area, but it's hard to tell if it's oil or just run-of-the-mill dirt.
I took a few pics : mauk52.jpg1600x1200
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