Subaru - Legacy :: 1995 LS Not Starting - Knob On The Shifter Won't Go In To Get Out Of Park
Oct 30, 2012
Ok. I replace my alternator on my 1995 Subaru Legacy Ls. Everything went great. Last thing I did was to connect the positive cable on the battery. When I did it sparked alittle. Well when I got into the car to start it nothing. Turn the key nothing. The knob on the shifter won't go in to get out of park. Neighbor checked my battery said it was fine. But nothing will come on. Nothing.No lights. I had problems with my ignition before. Do you think my ignition went out? Honestly don't know what to think. Some one told me that these cars have a secondary security system. If it goes on you cannot move the knob on the shifter and when you turn the key on nothing?
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1993 Subaru Legacy wagon AWD Auto, press on brake pedal & won't release shifter,unless you press the button at the bottom of shifter.
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My 1995 Legacy is slipping in reverse while backing up an incline. On level ground it seems fine. I Changed the fluid, but it's still doing it. Forward gears seem fine. It's an automatic transmission.
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My mother in law gave her 1995 Subaru to us last year. She told me not to use the parking brake because the wheels seize up and to drive it often. We did not need a third car and every third day of not driving it the rear wheels would seize up which would require me (once in the snow) to jack the car up, take off the rear wheels, and tap the drum with a large hammer. Doing this would cause a huge mess because of the rust which fell onto the driveway. So recently I told her that the drums, shoes, and most likely the brake lines needed replacing and I would not pay for that as I didn't need the car anyway. Her response was that If I had driven the car every so often then it would have been fine. At which point I raised the safety issue with the braking and so forth which she flat out rejected saying it was fine when she drove it. Now I'm being blamed for the problems with her old neglected car. Should I just have the thing towed away or try and get it fixed?
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The car has 175,000 miles on it and is having issues starting but only sometimes. The starter turns over but the engine doesn't catch. Usually if I open the hood, pretend to know what I'm doing, and wait a bit, it will start within 10 minutes or less (sometimes it takes a few tries.) I hear a click when the starter is going and the engine isn't catching, very much like the click I hear if I'm driving with the AC on and the AC needs to draw power. I've recently had a tune-up including new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. The mechanic can't figure out what's wrong (doesn't seem to be the battery or the battery terminals). The car even started up FINE at 40 below. I can't really see a pattern to it.
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I have a 1995 Subaru legacy wagon, 176K miles. The reverse went out about 10 months ago; all the other gears shift fine and it runs great. Do I have a bad transmission or could it possibly be some kind of switch or solenoid? I have searched the net for hours and keep coming up empty.
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Have a 95 Chevy blazer 4wd automatic on the column. Tonight I pulled in my house put it in park and turned it off. Took my foot off the brake and it started rolling. I noticed it didn't go in to park. I tried a free times and the shifter goes all the way up but the park doesn't engage and the light doesn't come on. I put it in neutral and used the e brake but am wondering what caused this and if it could be a big problem in the near future.
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I have a '95 Subaru Legacy L Wagon AWD 5-speed manual shift. There a new noise that seems to be coming from the front half of the car. I can't really describe the noise, but it only happens when all three conditions are met. If they are, the noise is continuous.
1.) The car has to be in gear--not neutral. But it doesn't matter which gear. I tried revving the engine in neutral, but nothing happens.
2.) I have to be accelerating on the gas petal. If I let off the gas--even if the engine and vehicle speed haven't yet dropped--there's no noise.
3.) Engine speed needs to be at or above 2,000 RPM. It gets louder at higher engine speeds, but it's pretty much proportional to the "normal" noises at higher speeds.
What might be causing this?
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I jumped in my car, started her up, and drove the 10 miles or so to meet up with her on the other side of town. And hour and a half later, I jumped back in my car and tried to turn her over....and nothing happened. I got the normal lights on the dash but no sounds at all - not even the usual "click".
I tried a couple more times before I went back inside and retrieved my brother-in-law, who is a retired truck mechanic, and asked him to take a look at it. He found nothing wrong and even he couldn't get it to start up.
I finally relented and called AAA to tow me to my fav mechanic. Before the dispatcher sent someone out, she offered to run through some troubleshooting stuff with me. She tells me, "Jump in, make sure the car is in park and your foot is on the brake, and give it one more try." And guess what? YES! THE CAR STARTED! It wasn't the normal start - it was silent for about three seconds before it finally roared to life - but at least it started.
So, I rush to my mechanic's place and ask them to give it a check over and make sure everything is okay. (I'm heading up to the high desert tomorrow and don't want to get stuck out there.) They came back a couple hours later saying everything looked fine - the battery, starter, and alternator were all fine. The advised me to keep an eye on it and come back when it "finally dies".
In the past year, I've replaced the fuel pump, battery, tie rods, and a boot. The alternator was replaced about 5 years ago and I've never had the starter worked on.
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Not sure what the deal is, but I was cleaning the car today with the radio on (not the car). All of a sudden the radio turns off. I thought it was the battery. So I go to turn it on and I get *click - click-click-click*. I pick up jumper cables, and go to throw the car into neutral to push it out of the garage, but that shifter is stuck in Park.
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My husband has a 2013 Subaru Legacy, and we have noticed that on days where the temperature is below 35 degrees Fahrenheit or so, it is having trouble starting. It cranks for about 7-10 seconds prior to starting, or will not start until after a few attempts. We have owned the car for about a year, and did not notice this problem last winter.
So far, we have taken it back to the Subaru Dealer twice. The first time, they told us they found nothing wrong with the car. The second time, they tried draining and recharging the battery. Our car is still having issues starting, and we are not sure where to turn to next. Is this a known issue with Subaru Legacy? Our car is still under warranty.
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'98 Subaru Legacy L, Automatic Tran., 2.2 L, ~140,000 mi. (a youngster)
My issue is with intermittent/delayed starting. What happens is that when I turn the key, the starter solenoid will click once. Eventually after several tries of turning the switch, it starts, usually with some hesitance. When I try to start, I don't hear anything laboring like the starter Bendix grinding against the flywheel, just click and nothing. I did have the CEL come on once for like 40 minutes and then go out. Once started, however, the car tends to run well and once warm starting is still hesitant, but is quicker. Did conk out on me once at an intersection, was able to restart. Luckily I can walk to school, so I have been keeping it off the road.
As far as troubleshooting goes, the car has the same difficulty starting in neutral as well as park. Within the past year I have replaced the alternator (died), timing belt (routine maint.) as well as the battery (bad). I have also reseated all the ground wires and coated them with dielectric grease. A few months ago, I took the starter out and had it bench tested as good at a "popular auto parts store" in my region - it tested good (starter readily turned over and the Bendix deployed and retracted). Funny thing, when I pulled the starter and replaced it after being checked, the car started flawlessly for a month or so, so I chocked it up to a bad connection. Guess not.
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So I have a 95 Legacy sedan, FWD. It's been a kind of problematic car, and the engine was replaced about 5 years ago (I assume with an old unit, but I'm not sure though because though I was in the family I wasn't driving it then). But, it's held up and has continued to be at least roadworthy. But recently, it's developed an issue where the engine will just randomly die while I'm on the road. All/most of the dash indicator lights come on, but if I shift it into neutral and turn the key, it'll come right back up. Occasionally it'll die again almost immediately, but usually it'll be fine for at least a while. And anecdotally, It seems to happen more frequently at lower revs such as idling at a red light (though will occasionally happen while I'm moving), and when the engine is cold - generally once I've driven around for a while, it's not a problem anymore.
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I have a 1995 Subaru Impreza that I have been nursing along for the past 14 years. Recently, if I drive for a decent length of time (~10 miles), turn the car off to go into a store, and then try to start it up again, it won't start. It turns over fine, but never fully starts. If I let it sit for 20-30 minutes, it will start back up again. The temperature gauge reads normal--between hot and cold. Is there another temperature sensor that might be malfunctioning, telling the car that the engine is too hot to start? Where/what is this called?
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The only serious problem i can't quite figure out is how to attach the shifter "knob" to the stalk. I see how the stock knob is attached, but i will be using an aluminium rod so clamping wont be a great idea. I have thought of removing the stalk and drilling a set of holes through it and running bolts to hold them together, but it isn't that big of a diameter and also i don't like the though of one of those nuts coming loose and messing up my shifting. My nest idea was epoxy, but I still would like to remove it if perhaps one day i wanted to. So there's my dilemma.
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I have a 2015 is350 f sport. I don't know if this is normal, but my shift knob is very loose. I can literally take my thumb and pointer finger and turn it either way with almost any pressure. When I turn it, the leather seems to be attached, and turns with the shifter when I turn it to the right to tighten it.
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I have a 2010 Prius no frills model with 5500 miles on it. I've started hearing a noise that sounds like loud burst of radio static. I hear it with the radio off or on. It's very intermittent, but seems to occur only at freeway speeds. Seems to be coming from underneath the shifter or underneath the dash in the same area.
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I have my GTi, a week ago I broke an axle. I was then convinced by friends the clutch went out. So I said screw it and bought a Southbend Stage 2 Daily. When I get it I go to install it, then find out I have a Broken half shaft. So after taking the tranny out to install the clutch anyways and everything goes alright for the most part. (250k miles so that's why I never returned new clutch)
SO I get everything together. Tires spins. Car goes all is good.
Clutch is super spongy as I need to bleed it. But my problem is the shifter knob is super sloppy. Feels like is a whole section lower. It's hard to engage second as I have to double tap it in with a good throw. Everything is right on the shift tower. And seems like it clicks right into all the gears. But the physical knob feels super sloppy and out of place. First, third and 5th are all super far up and seems like it double clicks after putting it into gear. Like if there was a gear above. Kinda weird to explain. I've done the home alignment on the tower and nob, but only have a bolt that was 4.71 mm. So the cables should be really close to being aligned right. But I can't grab second at high Rpms.
I also need to do my drain and fill. So would it be a drain and fill and clutch bleeding will fix my sloppy shifter? Before I did everything it was tight. Felt right.
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Loving my 2016 on day one, When I picked the car up last night I noticed that the shifter was not illuminated either by a spotlight like on my wife's 2010, or internally. The knob is a pretty blue plastic that sure looks like it should be illuminated from the inside.
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One of my headlights has stopped working on my 1999 Subaru. Do I need to replace the entire headlight assembly or is it just a bulb? Approximately how much should it cost to fix? 1999 Subaru Legacy sedan
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I drive a 2000 Subaru Legacy and the radiator fan does not always come on. This sometimes makes the car run hot but has not (yet) put it into the "danger zone" overheating. It seems to happen if the car is in stop and go traffic and it's hot outside. If I'm driving down the highway or the weather is cool it doesn't happen.
I checked the fuses (yes, even the ones under the hood) and they are all fine. I am just curious if there is a sensor that could be the problem or if it is more likely the thermostat. It didn't quite fit the descriptions I found for thermostat but I'm a broke college student trying to keep an old car on the road, not a Subaru mechanic
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