Subaru - Justy :: 1989 - Rear Wheels Locked Up
Jun 8, 2016
Subaru released a TSB about the rear output bearing locking up if the gear oil in the transmission gets too low. This seems to have happened to me last week when I did a 70mph 360 on the freeway and went in the ditch.After dragging it on and off the tow truck twice, the rear wheels came loose. It was almost 3 quarts low on gear oil, so i filled it up and drove it home.There is a severe leak from the rear output seal, which is cracked. Looking at the pictures, it seems the driveshaft got hot and locked up inside the extension housing, and not the bearing (which is farther inside the housing.) My question is, can I sand the burr off the driveshaft, replace the seal, and call it good? Or, should I pull the transmission apart and replace the bearings?
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I replaced the rear brakes on my 2003 Jetta 2.0. Reman. Calipers, new pads and rotors.
I bleed the rear right and then the rear left. Have full pressure in the pedal but the disc in grinding at low speeds and when I apply the brakes the rear wheels almost lock up.
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I have a '99 S70 (Front wheel drive) Volvo. I went to drive it and the rear tires are locked into place and do not turn!
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for the past few weeks when turning corners the outer rear tyre is skipping as if the diff is locked. was thinking of taking it into the mechanincs and maybe replacing it, but now the problem has gone no skipping when turning. could this be an electrical problem mayb a sensor?
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I have a 2000 Outback, 80K, and I've been having brake issues. The first thing I noticed was a burning brake smell. I pulled over and found that my two front wheels were very hot. I pumped the brakes a few times and let them cool down and drove on. Pulled over in a bit to check them and they were fine. Took the car to the dealer who said, "We can't really find anything wrong with the fronts, but the backs are sticking a bit and we fixed that." So, off I went. Of course, it happened again. Left front seemed the hottest, but this time I noticed that the rear wheels were warm as well. Took it in again. Again, "We don't know." "Could it be the calipers or the lines or the ABS chip," I asked? "Well, yeah, maybe the front calipers." So they replaced the front calipers.
Picked it up and noticed two things of interest on the print out: "Rear brakes hanging up," and the front pads are a 8mm and the rear at 3mm! Hm... Seemed fishy to me. I had all the pads replaced a year and half ago. The last set lasted 75K, so this is odd, as is the discrepancy between back and front. I had the dealer pull the service record. In May the rear were at 5mm. Two weeks ago they were at 3.5mm. Yesterday they were a 3mm. I asked, "What would cause that?" They said, "Well, probably whoever did your brake job didn't clean the brakes up well so they are getting stuck and wearing down." I took the car and drove 60 miles, mostly on the highway. Fronts wheels were cool. Rear wheels were warm to hot.
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My 92 nissan truck 4x4 won't move. engine runs fine but after a couple stream crossings and parking it I can't get it to roll. It happened a few years ago and a mech. said it was rust lock in the brakes?
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My son has a 2003 Super Duty with auto locks, but the front wheels won't lock even when turn to locked position. Also when it's in two wheel drive the front drive shaft and axles still spin, are the hubs locked up or is it in the transfer case?
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Whenever I am driving my Subaru Impreza, the steering wheel shakes above 60mph and is a violent shake at 65mph making it unbearably frustrating to drive to school each day. Recently I had slipped on ice and hit a curb with the tires on the right side of the car. I took it to a shop to get the rims looked at, and ended up replacing the back right. The mechanic said nothing about the front one however. My question to you is; could it be that the front rim is also bent? Or that it could just be a buildup of ice. It is cold here, snows often and is never above 20F.
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My mother in law gave her 1995 Subaru to us last year. She told me not to use the parking brake because the wheels seize up and to drive it often. We did not need a third car and every third day of not driving it the rear wheels would seize up which would require me (once in the snow) to jack the car up, take off the rear wheels, and tap the drum with a large hammer. Doing this would cause a huge mess because of the rust which fell onto the driveway. So recently I told her that the drums, shoes, and most likely the brake lines needed replacing and I would not pay for that as I didn't need the car anyway. Her response was that If I had driven the car every so often then it would have been fine. At which point I raised the safety issue with the braking and so forth which she flat out rejected saying it was fine when she drove it. Now I'm being blamed for the problems with her old neglected car. Should I just have the thing towed away or try and get it fixed?
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My Outback gets the DTs in the steering wheel. 2003 with 300K highway miles. New tie-rods, brakes, brake master cylinder, alignment & balance (all from great shop with great rep) have failed to eliminate the problem. It comes on suddenly at highway speeds, usually in cold weather (below 20); but not necessarily in snowy conditions. Slowing down to 30/20 mph does not stop the shudder (though it slows and reveals itself as a fierce twitch to the right). Eventually the shudder is accompanied by a rhythmic scraping sound somewhere in the left front wheel well, which maybe is there all along but inaudible at higher speeds.
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My rear tires (Nokian) on my Subaru Legacy 1999 all wheel drive car are noisy and chopped after only 18,000 miles (tires were in front for 4,000 miles; at that point I had to get two new tires which were put in front). My mechanic does not recommend rotation so they haven't been rotated. No, I don't know why. So now they are chopped but have lots of tread.
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I have a 2003 Subaru Forester, manual transmission, about 117k.Three weeks ago I go to back up and the car feels like the wheels have seized up, wasn't able to budge an inch. I couldn't pull forwards or back. Called the tow truck, brought it to the mechanic and the next day they call and said the rear brakes are almost metal to metal, and that the e-brake pad needs to be replaced as well. So I have that work done and a couple days later the same thing happens. I go to the store and when I go to leave I couldn't pull forward or back. It felt like the brakes were engaged and if I were to give it too much gas something would break.
Called the tow truck again to have it brought back to the mechanic, but this time I couldn't wait to meet the tow there, so I just left the key with the mechanic (mechanic was only a couple blocks from where I was stuck). The next day the mechanic calls to say that the tow truck driver didn't have any problem pulling the car onto the tow, and they didn't have any problem pulling the car into the garage. They put it on the lift and took a look, but couldn't see anything wrong with it.I drove it to work and back the next two days and then it happens again. I try to go in reverse and the wheels have seized up. Went back to the car about an hour later and there was no issue. Drove it a couple more days without a problem, then it happened again this evening. This time it begrudgingly pulled forward a couple feet then stopped. Left it there for about an hour, came back and was able to drive it away without issue. When it seized up I couldn't even push it while in neutral.
What could be causing my car to not want to pull forward or back like this?
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i have a Subaru legacy rs 1996 twin turbo, about 6 months ago now i replaced both front outer CV joints and boots due to a grinding when turning at slow speed e.g a car park. the grinding had gone and its was all fine until now the same grinding as come back. its it normal for the CV joint to wear out that fast or could there be a different problem?
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On the expressway, I was driving my 2013 Subaru Impreza about 50 mph and had occasion to make a sudden stop. There were no crashes, and traffic started up again immediately - except for me! There I was, in the left lane, and when I depressed the gas pedal the car stayed put. I could hear the engine rev, but the wheels didn't turn. I had to turn the car off and start it again before I could move forward. What could be going on?
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I have 1989 plymouth colt dl wagon the rear spindle nut needs to be replace but there is no spindle nut anywhere...
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Drove my car for the time in a week, i picked up a 89 gli 16v, and when I shut the car off and was getting my backpack out of my trunk i started to hear like a weird noise, kinda like a pump was pushing fluid or air from the rear of the car, it did it for about 20 - 30 seconds then stopped. No cel light and only a lil over 50k on the car.
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I have a 1989 ford f150 xlt lariat it has a 5.0 and a 5 speed and is 4 wheel drive. Any way I am looking into rebuilding the rear end of the truck the pinion shaft has a lot of play in it up and down and both outer axle bearings seem to have lots of play in them. I believe it is a 8.8 inch in the rear. Just wondering if there hard to rebuild or what it all entails I have never taken one apart before and want to know what I am getting into. I have access to a press and a pinion and carrier bearing puller. the axle bearings i have done tons of them but never had to pull out the carrier. wondering how to set turning torque and backlash etc... and torque specs for everything.
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Last week, I noticed that my rear wheels were splayed out. That is, the bottoms of the wheels were further from the center of the car than the tops of the wheels. I drove to the dealership (abut 2 miles from where I was when I noticed the issue) and discovered that the tires had worn through the steel cords on the inside edges.
They did an alignment and put on two new tires and I was on my way (3 1/2 hours later). They could not tell me what had gone so terribly wrong to cause this, but they also told me that they could not get the passenger side rear wheel aligned because of the cam bolt. Apparently it is quite worn. They said it was a 4-5 hour job replacing this bolt. Does this seem reasonable?
Since this episode, I have noticed that my car is really jumpy when I am turning left. Mostly on long turns like ramps and curves in the road. By "jumpy" I mean that the car seems to jerk around side to side during the turn. I worry about losing control.
I can't tell if the problem is caused by the front or rear wheels, but I don't feel anything strange in the steering wheel. In my mind, I feel that it is the rear wheels, but that may just be because of the recent work I had done. What might be causing this?
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Ok so I don't really use the back seats too often but on a carpool ride one of my friends whos riding in the back mentions that the armrest/tray wont come down. Im like WTF so when I get home I realize it really is stuck and im trying to find a way to fix it to no avail. Is there something really simple that I am not seeing or is it really broken?
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I had a 03 trailblazer ltz; last week while driving low speed ( 30 hm-50 km ) ,the rear tires had locked,and sliding,but the engine didn't stop and steering wheel didn't lock.I restarted the engine but the transmission at D , it didn't work. When the transmission changed at R ,and after that at D i can drive it. Nowadays i'm hearing noise from left rear tires like turning shaft. Before that i jumped from the ramp while fast, because of that the sound began.
After that,this issues have began. Yesterday while I'm driving at low speed it happened again. When I pass the 30 kmh the sound are too loudly come from rear tires. I Checked that but nobody can find the issue. I check the hand brake parts,because i didn't work. but yesterday it made it again.
Is it possible to being after jump from speed bump ?? Because i passed it fast and jumped. After that, the sounds began.( i think it's like a rolling sth. ). I used the car about 2 weeks after that and never used about two weeks. Now i can drive it ,but sounds always there.last time i drived it on flat road,no brake and sounds came like squeezing sth. And the transmission no longer to be useful,but the car can still in idle ,it never stopped the engine and never give me an alert.
While slow down, I changed transmission to park,and changed to reverse.so ,i can drive it,but sound always there.there are no oil under the car.after first time the dealer said '' your problem is parking brake shoe ''. Because parking brake shoe come away from it's location. He corrected,but sounds still there. After 2 days, it made it second time. So it is on park now ....
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I try to open the rear door and it stay all time close. All others doors working well but not the rear one. I try to open it with the emergency opening behind the light but not working also.... What I could try ?
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