Subaru - Imprezawrxsti :: 2005 - Engine Starting To Idle At High RPM 3000 To 4000
Apr 18, 2013
The past two times I've driven to work I've hit significant traffic. While in the middle of stop and go traffic, the engine started to idle at high RPM (3000-4000). Today the temperature gauge really started climbing and hit the red, at which point I shut the car off and waited a few minutes. No smoke, no noise and no check engine lights. As soon as the road started to clear and we were moving again, the car was fine. The engine cooled, stayed cool, and the idle returned to it's normal 1000 RPM.
The dealer was unfortunately unable to reproduce these findings, though they thought it could be a stuck thermostat.
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My hybrid has been a great car, owned 3 years. Now have problem: runs great but if going higher speed 65 and pulls hill needing to kick in to 4000rpms it dies right away says high temp engine but does not smell hot or need water. Let it sit for 15 minutes (even though will start right away but might keep dying unless sits). Will run fine unless hits higher rpms then dies again. 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid...
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My daughter drives an 04 WRX. We purchased the car new, taught her to drive in it and have kept up with the maintenance. Including changing the timing belt and water pump about 13 months ago. The odometer was at about 96K then and is now at about 102K.A week ago my daughter came inside and told me that her car would not start. I went out turned the key. She was right, the engine cranked but would not fire. The cranking of the engine was unusually fast and the sound it made during cranking was off. I immediately thought that the starter was bust.I replaced the starter and while at it replaced the plugs the belts and the front pulley (the pulley because our Forester's pulley's rubber ring had recently de-bonded it self). I put it all back together and turned the key. To my horror the car would not start. The starter sound and crank speeds were the same as before I did my mini tune up.To bring the pain to an end I had the car towed to my local Subaru dealer. I momentarily blacked out when he called and told me that the timing belt had probably jumped and that the engine heads and valves were now ruined. My engine will need to be replaced. Final punch in the gut, it will cost $8000.Is this for real given that the engine did not start and that the damage would have had to be done by just cranking with the starter?
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Caller had a problem with his car wobbling or vibrating while he was braking. The conclusion was that the rotors were warped. A quick google search would confirm that this is the most probable source of the wobble, but I'm not sure if it is correct for my problem:
I drive a 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX. For quite a while not the steering and what feels like the whole car wobbles or vibrates when I brake. This is imperceptible at speeds under around 45 mph, but at high speeds it is VERY noticeable. It seems especially bad if I am going around 70 mph and lightly applying the brakes. The wobble does not happen unless the breaks are applied. So, warped rotors right? So I decided to check them and see if they are warped. I took both wheels, calipers, and rotors off my car and inspected the rotors.
My initial impression is that they looked as good as when I bought them. Of course an eye-ball diagnosis would not sufficiently answer my question so what I did was compare one rotor to the other. I put them together rotor on rotor to see if I could find any variation in shape. I figured that if one rotor was flat, while the other was warped, it would be noticeable. If both were warped, than the difference should be exaggerated. I did this multiple times to make sure I wasn't missing any warp or distortion. So as far as I can tell, they aren't warped. Another thing that I noticed, however was the brake pads. They were in good shape for the most part, but the corners/ends seems to be worn of at an angle about a quarter inch from the edge. I reassembled everything and when I drove the car, the wobble was gone. Now after about 15 minutes, the wobble returned.
Here are my Questions: Is my method of figuring out whether the rotor is warped reasonable? am i missing something?Why would the edges of the brake pads be worn down that drastically?Could the wobble come from something else? Struts? wheel bearings? bent wheel? If so, how can I diagnose/test which one it is?
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I have been working on all my wheels new pads and new ball joints in the front top and bottom. So when I am braking now I can hear a distinct whining sound kind of like a crapped out automatic tranny. I drive a manual so not my problem. I would assume a standard brake bleed will fix? The pedal is a bit spongy but it still stops like it should. I also have a grinding when I drive pretty sure it is unrelated just the backing plate touching the rotor I think.....
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I have an 04 WRX, I've upgraded the suspension (1.5" - 1.75" drop front and back respectfully) and have a full set up of strut tower braces. Recently when accelerating from a stop, I get a clicking noise from the passenger front wheel area, I hear it all the way through first, second, and most of third...the sound is probably present after that but my exhaust drowns it out. My first choice of problem is that the CVs have gone, the car has 140k on it...
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Ranger often wants to idle at 2,500 to 3,000 rpm. I'm glad its got a clutch! This is a long term intermittent problem that is getting worse. I have replaced the the IAC twice. I have unplugged the IAC when the engine is in high idle and the engine idles normally. But, starting the car with the IAC unplugged makes car run rough. That makes me think the IAC is not getting the right voltage input from the pmc (eec). Mine is a 2002 with the 3.0 engine. Throttle plate seems to be closed.
What sense inputs does PMC use to determine idle air position? Also replaced TPS sometime ago but that didn't work either. Sometimes turning off the a/c will knock the idle back to normal but not always. Turning the car off completely usually resets idle. But the high idle comes right back after accelerating. Drove the car today and idle would stick and stay high when clutch pushed in coming to a light. However. as the car slowed to a stop the idle would come down when rolling 1-2 mph. ??
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Every morning when I start my LX570 it starts with the idle higher that normal and then after 1 or two minutes is settles.
Along with the higher idle there is a little extra noise from the engine, after 2 minutes the noise goes away and all normal.
Is this the way they start in the morning?
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When I start my 2003 Escape 3.0, the rpm's shoot up to about 3000rpms. After a few seconds they drop to about 2000 and slowly creep back up to 3000. When I put in gear, I don't even have to step on the gas and my vehicle goes. It maintains between 1500-2000rpms as I'm driving. When I come to a red light or stop sign, it lurches like it wants to go even though I have my foot on the brakes. I've replaced the IAC valve, TPS, had it checked for vacuum leaks, PCV valve replaced. I'm at a loss as to what it could be.
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I now have a p0011 code on my 2001 passat 1.8t aug. this is a thinker because right before the test drive around the block i did the following
- coolant flush
-replaced the fuel filter
-cleaned the knn air filter
-rotated the tires
-oil change with new castrol 5w-40 syn. and 1/2 a bottle of lucas syn oil stabilizer.
With a few phone calls a possible cause is the timing chain skipped a tooth cause of the lucas being to thick, other cause could be the tensioner finally went out?
Right know the car car has a rough idle and seems to be finding idle , and a noise from the engine around 4000 rpm.
I am waiting for the engine to cool off before i open her up to check timing.. if the chain is off a a tooth what could be the cause?
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I drive a 1999 Kia Sportage with 84,000 miles on it and recently the engine has been running rather odd. When I start the car, sometimes the engine will rev really high up to like 3000 rpm until I put it in reverse or drive. Also, lately when I am in drive and I stop, or slow down so it drops below 1000 rpm the engine will kind of rev down to 500 and then back to 1000. This causes the engine to kind of shake and has once caused it to shut off. Now I put it in neutral when I stop. What it could be?
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Recently my 2005 scion tc CEL light came on and I diagnosed p0456. At the same time when I turn the car on in the morning it idles at 2k RPM for about 3 minutes and then the idle goes down to around 900. If I park and return to the car within 2 hours the idle stays down but if I wait it goes back to 2k and I have to wait a few minutes for it to come down. My question is whether this is related to p0456. What could be wrong and how do I fix it?
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At the beginning December I put my brand new winter tires (general altimax arctics) on the factory steelies and put them on the car gearing up for the snow. Not to long after the install I notice that I was getting a very strong engine vibration starting at 3,000 rpms and it stopped around 3,100 rpms no matter what gear I was in. At first I though it maybe just the cold affecting the engine. Well...
Last week I put my summer rims and tires back on for the 1,600 mile trip to MO and back, and like magic, no more heavy vibrations. Smooth acceleration throughout the normal driving rpm range. I just changed the oil and tranny fluids Tuesday after we got back and with the warmer weather the car is running smooth as silk. Still an awesome car with awesome mileage and couldn't be happier.
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I've had my 2013 GS350 for less than a week , but one thing I've noticed (compared to Acura) is that when I first start the car, the idle seems very high. This lasts for 5-10 mins, then seems to come down and becomes much quieter. Is that by design to get the engine warmed up sooner? It seems overall the idle is a bit higher and louder than I'm used to.
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About 2 months ago, I noticed a high pitched whine on my 2005 Subaru Outback. It honestly sounds like a siren and is very noticeable. It occurs more often when the car is cold (1st thing in the morning) and around 20 mph. It sounds like it is coming from the rear of my car. It occurs whether or not I am pressing on the gas pedal. Once I get above about 30-40 mph, I don't notice it anymore (don't know if this is because other engine noises are drowning it out or what). It does not change or get worse when I turn. It seems to subside once my car is warm. Other people have heard it and some describe it like an airplane taking off.
I took it to the Subaru dealership and they said it was my alternator. Lo and behold a few hundred dollars later, it was still making the noise. A few days later, my CAM sensor went bad and I was back in the shop. Of course, I tried to get my car to make the noise for the mechanic, but it wouldn't cooperate. They didn't see anything wrong, but it is still making the noise. I have taken it to the dealership and they couldn't get it to make the noise. My rear wheel bearings were going bad and so I replaced those - under warranty, but it still makes the noise. I keep up with all my oil changes, services, etc. I just had the fluids checked and the power steering fluid is normal. The power steering pump has also been checked and it is normal. What this might be?
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2005 Subaru Outback Wagon just had 60,000 mi service, O-ring replaced. running fineran out of gas on HWY. CHP arrived 2 min before AAA and insisted on pushing me to next exit, at least 5 mi. Per copper's instructions, automatic transmission in neutral, brakes off. Now there is a steady new high-pitch to the background engine noise that doesn't change with speed. What happened and do I need to take it to the shop?
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I have a '96 Saturn SL with a 1.9 SOHC. I recently removed the engine and transmission to change the clutch. I also changed the timing chain guides, the valve cover gasket, the timing chain gasket, oil pan gasket, front and rear crank seals and motor mounts. After I put it back in, it revs to 3500-4000 rpms and is very rich (so rich it smokes). I replaced the throttle position sensor since it had a crack at the plug and to see if that was the problem. I have looked at everything again and nothing is jumping out at me.
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I've 2005 Subaru Forester automatic with 2.5L engine. It ran fine since I purchased it in 2005. However for the last 3 months it is behaving strangely. When it sits in the garage for 2 days or longer, it starts up very rough. It feels like the engine is misfiring. If I let it run for 10 to 15 minutes, it is back to normal!! The car has 80,000 miles. It was tuned up at 61,000 miles. I recently had a diagnostic check done. It showed no problems.
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I have a gorgeous, mint 4x4 1992 Toyota pickup...that runs terribly. Sometimes, it won't start. When it does start, it often idles very, very low. (Idler tension cable was adjusted up but it didn't work.) When I drive it, the idle goes up and down between very low and 4000 RPM. Sometimes, it stalls out all together, regardless of what I do to the clutch, brake, or acceleration. In an engine diagnosis, Knock Sensor came up, but there's a new one, and the cable harness is fully gone through. It's got a new engine with 67,000 miles on it, a new fuel pump, and just about every part has been replaced. It's been to about 10 mechanics, all of whom can't figure it out.
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The Subaru as 260k miles on it and I live in Georgia. When I attempt to start the car, it turns over and sounds like the engine catches and then dies out without getting over 200 rpms or so. Its a manual and I made sure the floor mat isn't impeding the clutchsensor.
The car has been doing this the past three days and finally today after driving around for a few hours and multiple times shutting the engine off with at least two start attempts before it fires, I get home and shut off the car.
I then attempt to restart it about two hours later and after 7 tries, all with the car sounding like the the engine has fired but not yet fully running , then the engine dies. I would push start it but am parked on an uphill slope.
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Is this normal for the Camry? When you're flooring the car besides the typical roar I hear like a small high pitch noise, it's gone once I let go of the gas. I tested it & start to hear it at about 4000RPMs I believe. Recorded it on video but you can't hear it at all on video.
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