Subaru - Imprezawrxsti :: 2004 - Engine Self Destruction By Just Cranking With The Starter?
Mar 28, 2013
My daughter drives an 04 WRX. We purchased the car new, taught her to drive in it and have kept up with the maintenance. Including changing the timing belt and water pump about 13 months ago. The odometer was at about 96K then and is now at about 102K.A week ago my daughter came inside and told me that her car would not start. I went out turned the key. She was right, the engine cranked but would not fire. The cranking of the engine was unusually fast and the sound it made during cranking was off. I immediately thought that the starter was bust.I replaced the starter and while at it replaced the plugs the belts and the front pulley (the pulley because our Forester's pulley's rubber ring had recently de-bonded it self). I put it all back together and turned the key. To my horror the car would not start. The starter sound and crank speeds were the same as before I did my mini tune up.To bring the pain to an end I had the car towed to my local Subaru dealer. I momentarily blacked out when he called and told me that the timing belt had probably jumped and that the engine heads and valves were now ruined. My engine will need to be replaced. Final punch in the gut, it will cost $8000.Is this for real given that the engine did not start and that the damage would have had to be done by just cranking with the starter?
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The past two times I've driven to work I've hit significant traffic. While in the middle of stop and go traffic, the engine started to idle at high RPM (3000-4000). Today the temperature gauge really started climbing and hit the red, at which point I shut the car off and waited a few minutes. No smoke, no noise and no check engine lights. As soon as the road started to clear and we were moving again, the car was fine. The engine cooled, stayed cool, and the idle returned to it's normal 1000 RPM.
The dealer was unfortunately unable to reproduce these findings, though they thought it could be a stuck thermostat.
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Caller had a problem with his car wobbling or vibrating while he was braking. The conclusion was that the rotors were warped. A quick google search would confirm that this is the most probable source of the wobble, but I'm not sure if it is correct for my problem:
I drive a 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX. For quite a while not the steering and what feels like the whole car wobbles or vibrates when I brake. This is imperceptible at speeds under around 45 mph, but at high speeds it is VERY noticeable. It seems especially bad if I am going around 70 mph and lightly applying the brakes. The wobble does not happen unless the breaks are applied. So, warped rotors right? So I decided to check them and see if they are warped. I took both wheels, calipers, and rotors off my car and inspected the rotors.
My initial impression is that they looked as good as when I bought them. Of course an eye-ball diagnosis would not sufficiently answer my question so what I did was compare one rotor to the other. I put them together rotor on rotor to see if I could find any variation in shape. I figured that if one rotor was flat, while the other was warped, it would be noticeable. If both were warped, than the difference should be exaggerated. I did this multiple times to make sure I wasn't missing any warp or distortion. So as far as I can tell, they aren't warped. Another thing that I noticed, however was the brake pads. They were in good shape for the most part, but the corners/ends seems to be worn of at an angle about a quarter inch from the edge. I reassembled everything and when I drove the car, the wobble was gone. Now after about 15 minutes, the wobble returned.
Here are my Questions: Is my method of figuring out whether the rotor is warped reasonable? am i missing something?Why would the edges of the brake pads be worn down that drastically?Could the wobble come from something else? Struts? wheel bearings? bent wheel? If so, how can I diagnose/test which one it is?
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I have been working on all my wheels new pads and new ball joints in the front top and bottom. So when I am braking now I can hear a distinct whining sound kind of like a crapped out automatic tranny. I drive a manual so not my problem. I would assume a standard brake bleed will fix? The pedal is a bit spongy but it still stops like it should. I also have a grinding when I drive pretty sure it is unrelated just the backing plate touching the rotor I think.....
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I have an 04 WRX, I've upgraded the suspension (1.5" - 1.75" drop front and back respectfully) and have a full set up of strut tower braces. Recently when accelerating from a stop, I get a clicking noise from the passenger front wheel area, I hear it all the way through first, second, and most of third...the sound is probably present after that but my exhaust drowns it out. My first choice of problem is that the CVs have gone, the car has 140k on it...
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160K miles. Sometimes starter doesn't seem to engage with the engine and the engine won't start unless i put it in neutral and floor the gas pedal. Then it shakes, rattles, sputters and smokes comes out but it starts like the car in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (for the oldsters here). Happens about every third start. Once i had a 67 Plymouth where every once in a while i would have to hold the butterfly open (with a stick) on the carburetor. I have to take it and get it fixed. So odd that it is not every start. Happening with more frequency.
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The car has 175,000 miles on it and is having issues starting but only sometimes. The starter turns over but the engine doesn't catch. Usually if I open the hood, pretend to know what I'm doing, and wait a bit, it will start within 10 minutes or less (sometimes it takes a few tries.) I hear a click when the starter is going and the engine isn't catching, very much like the click I hear if I'm driving with the AC on and the AC needs to draw power. I've recently had a tune-up including new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. The mechanic can't figure out what's wrong (doesn't seem to be the battery or the battery terminals). The car even started up FINE at 40 below. I can't really see a pattern to it.
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Well I got all the wiring redone and things are looking good except for one major problem... my starter is no cranking. I am getting nothing on it. It, everything else is solid all connections check the thing is just NOT work. Where to begin to problem solve this?
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I have a 2000 Grand Marquis. Yesterday I turned the key and the starter didn't crank. Everything else came on like it is supposed to. Radio, dash, warning lights, etc. After trying a few times, it started but the starter wouldn't disengage. I had to disconnect the battery for it to stop. I changed the ignition switch and cycled the key, but when I try to hook the battery back up, the starter immediately begins to crank. Even when the key is off and out of the ignition.
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My jeep is 6 months old. From day one it has erratic starter problems. Often when starting it, the starter keeps on cranking after I let go of the key! The ignition switch visually returns to the run position, but is electronically stuck in start mode. When this happens I quickly shut off the ignition and try again. Jeep cant duplicate the problem, and says Chrysler has no bulletins about this.
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1993 Nissan maxima
The battery went dead so I put a new battery in and a few days later I had the hood open and I had my wife start the car. I heard a loud cracking sound and saw a large bright blueish flash above and between the starter solenoid and the body of the starter.I had my wife turn the car off and start it again and it did the same thing again.
What the heck is going on?
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I've been trying to figure out a slow start condition on my 06 F350. What should the starter rpms be when cranking? My scanguage reads 180. Does this sound low? Batteries are new.
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For the past year I have had intermittent start issues with my LS that occur about 15 percent of the time. Ambient or engine temperature do not make a difference. Sometimes the starter engages but then disengages right away. I then need to depress the start button an additional time or two before it actually starts. At other times the starter engages and continues cranking while the engine sounds like it is trying to start (like it is just barely keeping ahead of the starter speed). That carries on for several seconds and then it starts. Nothing shows on diagnostics and the dealer says I am going to have to wait until there is a complete "no start" before they can trouble shoot. There was a similar issue with earlier 460 models but the Lexus service tech said that problem does not apply to the 2011's. It seems there is a lack of fuel delivery but from what point? And why only intermittent and momentary?
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Last night my battery died. We tried charging the battery today and it was didn't work, so I grabbed the battery out of my IS300 and put it in the F. The car still won't start, I don't even hear the starter cranking. Not sure what's going on.
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I drive an Infiniti i30. When I bought it, the guy who sold it to me told me that the car runs great but that I would have to turn the key kind of hard to get the car started. Over time, this problem has progressively gotten worse. There have been times where I'd be stuck in a parking lot for over an hour trying to get the car to start. When I turn the key, I can hear the starter clicking, and all of the dash lots and radio will come on but the car doesn't sound like its cranking or even trying to start. The weirdest thing is that the first time I drive my car in the morning it starts up just fine. It's once I turn the car off after driving somewhere and try to start it again that I have problems. I'll have to turn the key 100 times or more sometimes to get it to start if its not the first time of the day. What this could be?
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Just got my new work truck a '12 EB. This morning it was about 9 degrees and I jumped in and turned the key. The dash screen went out and the radio display went out then cycled back on but the starter didn't crank. I tried 2 more times with the same result. Then I just let the key in the on position for about 10 seconds and then I turned the key and it started right up. I stopped at several places and every time I went to start it it cranked and fired up the first try. Now tonight the truck has been sitting for 7 hours and it is 12 degrees, it took several tries before it cranked.
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What are the odds that the fly wheel is ok and I just need to replace the starter? I can hear it engage the flywheel, it's making the zzzzzzzzzzz noise after it disengages the flywheel, can these starters be oiled or anything to prevent that noise?
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I have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
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I had posted earlier about replacing the harness or at the very least the plug that broke off of the cam shaft sensor on our 98 Subaru Outback. Well, I replaced the plug, and the cam and crank shaft sensors as well and it is still cranking but not firing.
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I just bought a 2004 4.2 V8 Touareg with issues. Engine has oil. Tried to start it but no start. I could hear a loud ticking from passenger (right) side cam upon cranking. I removed all plug wires from right side cam and now it starts and runs on drivers side (left) only. Getting spark from all disconnected wires. Car will drive forward and back and check engine light flashes. Reconnected right side plug wires and no start.
I notice one of the plastic intake manifold arms connected to a rubber bellow was broken. I assume that's for O2 sensor/warm up so probably wouldn't prevent the engine from cranking.
What do I do next? Remove valve cover and look for camshaft damage? Bad cam sensor cause this? I'd rather not drop a rebuilt motor in it but I also don't want to throw $5k of parts at it. Car is for my soon to be 16 year old son (maybe it's safer as a four banger!).
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In the last 50 starts it has happened twice: When I try to start the truck, all dash lights and power come on but there is no sound or cranking from the engine. If I cycle the key back and forth a half a dozen times it will then crank and start. Next time I will try and listen to hear if the solenoid is clicking.
I've read posts about it being the anti-theft, ignition switch, stater relay, ppm relay, etc....
I could replace the relays to rule them out, but my gut is telling me that's not it? Would there be a code from something like this?
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