Subaru - Impreza :: 2012 - Low Oil Light Comes On
Apr 3, 2013
I have a 2012 Subaru Impreza 5spd, I bought it new about a year ago and every +- 2000 miles my low oil light comes on. The Subaru dealer is telling me this is normal. After happening 5 times in the past year I am getting fed up and believe there is something wrong with the engine. I Know many people with newer Subarus and none of them are having this issue with the oil light. When the light comes on and I check the oil I see that I am a full quart low, the dipstick comes out dry. The dealer has been insisting that this is consumption is normal. I finally called corporate last week and when they returned me call they told me that after contacting the dealer there was no evidence of low oil levels.
I attribute this to the fact that the dealer told me to top the oil off before driving, so of course the oil levels will appear fine when I bring the car in the next day. Regardless the woman from subaru corporate told me that consumption of a quart within 1200 miles is abnormal, however, she never said that it was normal for consumption rates of a quart per 2000 miles. So is this rate of consumption normal, and should I be concerned? There is no leaking oil that I can see, also where does the oil go in a closed system? I don't smell burning oil or see any smoke in the exhaust. I have begun carrying oil with me due to the frequency of this and am scared to drive it when the light comes on because I feel it will damage the engine.
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I have a 2004 Subaru WRX Wagon with 138,000 miles whose CEL light is on. I have had a private mechanic replace the plugs and wires and tune the car, light went out but came back on. He said the misfire is at 1,3. He swapped the coils and determined that was not the problem. Told us to take it to the dealer and check the codes. Brought it to a Subaru dealer and they ran the diagnostics and it came up Code P0301. Compression test and leakdown test were fine. They removed spark plug for cylinder 1 and inspected with camera. Found exhaust value darker than other but not sure that is the problem. They were unable to determine the cause of the check engine light. They claim the next step is to drop exhaust and inspect valve guides or remove heads to inspect valves. I have read many stories on line about how engines were pulled when in many cases it was not an engine problem at all. Car is running fine but does idle hard and will hiccup on highway.
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The seat belts in a Subaru WRX have been replaced with 4 Point Racing Harnesses. The air bag light now stays on. Does this mean the air bags are inoperable or will they still deploy in case of an accident?
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So I'm driving along with everything fine till I pull into a neighbors driveway to drop off some stuff. As I pull in, the check engine light suddenly comes on and the cruise control light starts blinking. As I have a scangauge II always connected, I put the car in park and check the code. It comes up as P0000. I get on my Droid III and google it - all I see is "null code" so I clear the codes and everything is fine. I figure "that's odd, but whatever". I drive home (about 1000 feet) and park and shut the car off and go inside to mull this over.
I go back out to check out the scangauge again and it requires starting the car to read out the codes. The car won't start. The battery is fine, and in fact it does the "rurrr rurrr rurr" strongly for 10 times before I figure it's not starting. I wait about 30 seconds and try again - same thing. I wait about an hour or two and try again and it starts this time right away, but then stalls right away. Start again and manually give it some gas and it keeps idling weakly. I'm able to back out and drive a short distance and come back without a stall. I let it sit for the weekend (no shops open anyway) and start it monday morning with my AAA card out... and it starts fine and runs fine all day. I basically forget about it.
About a week and a half later, I'm driving along a country highway at 55 Mph, and the same thing happens. Check engine light, cruise control light blinking and the cruise actually cuts out so I'm losing speed suddenly. I run the scangauge again and same code. The car keeps running fine though, I'm able to drive it back (w/out cruise control) the 5 miles home. Nothing out of the ordinary.
I go inside and google this some more, and there's some posts about the Scangauge causing this - but I've been using it for about 4 years w/out this happening. That said, about 2 months ago, there was a recall, and they flashed the ECU with some update so maybe that changed something, but still - worked for months before this happened. I had to get to work etc so I just cleared the code again, and so far 3 days without a recurrence. Currently I'm thinking about waiting to see if it happens again and going to Autozone and have them read the code to see if it really is the Scangauge not reading the code right or whatever...
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Gas light came on yesterday but when I went to fill the tank... Gas would not go in and the tank acted as though it was full, spitting the gas back out.
I propped the valve open for 15-20 minutes and when tried to fill again, it allowed me to pump gas. Is this a serious issue that I need to address immediately? What if I never let tank go below 1/4 full?
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,So my 98 subaru impreza acts rather funny for the first 5-10 minutes after start up. Basically what happens is I turn the ignition and it takes longer than usual to start up and when it does the car acts like its running on fumes. When I'm idling the car shakes like its struggling to get fuel in the engine and when I drive it it jerks along for the first 10 minutes or so when I have to accelerate. Usually after about 10 minutes of driving the problem goes away, but since I primarily drive it to work abut 15 minutes away, its like the majority of my commute. The problem usually happens more when i let the gas get below 3/4 of a tank so I try to keep it topped off.
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The check engine light on our Subaru keeps coming on. The first time, the computer showed that it was an issue with the gas cap. They reset the light and we were fine. The second time, apparently, they could not check if it was the gas cap b/c the tank was full. So, we had them just change out the cap. Well, now it has happened a third time.
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My 2015 impreza w/under 100 miles would not start. It turned over but the engine would not engage. The dealership told me the electronics in the car drains the battery and I had to start my car every day. Sounds like garbage to me. I did not drive it for one day and it would not start and it is summer time. What's going to happen in the winter? I have a 1998 Honda with 218K miles that is very reliable but it is not AWD. I cannot believe Subaru would have such fantastic ratings on safety and all weather AWD and be cheap on this problem if it is one. I need a reliable car and that is why I bought a Subaru to get around in all weather conditions and be safe. What good is it if the car won't start? Reminds me of a Nissan I had years ago that would break down frequently when I drove it. I got rid of it at 34K and 3 fuel pumps later.
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I have started to hear the sound of water sloshing around behind the dash of my 96 Subaru Impreza. I can really hear it when I take a sharp turn.
Today it was raining and it sounded much louder. I can't locate where there may be a leak.
I was looking at pages to remove the dashboard to have a look.
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I bought (in November 2012) a 2009 Subaru Impreza. On a couple of occasions, when I put the car in Drive, it started going in reverse (in a flat parking lot). Each time, I put the car back in Park, turned the ignition off, started up again and it seemed fine - till yesterday. I was in a parking lot again, tried putting the car in drive and it went in reverse! A few times in a row, till I got so close to the vehicle behind me that I had to call roadside assistance... What's going on??
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My ac compressor has seized up and now needs to be replace at a cost of nearly 2,000. Maybe I can go a few weeks with out it, but I will not be able to have heat or defrost as the colder temps come in for the fall. Why this would happen? 109K on the odometer. The mechanic also suggested that I change the timing belt and the water pump (neither are broken) replacing these is also expensive. am I crazy for not changing the timing belt and water pump?
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I was changing my oil yesterday and noticed a significant amount of oil residue on a bracket located approximately at the center of the front axle, to the left of the oil pan. I'm confident the leak isn't coming from the oil pan, drain plug, or oil filter, based solely on the location of the buildup, but I was not able to see specifically where the build originated. As this is a Boxer engine, my concern is that the underside of one of the head gaskets may be leaking. My only reservation about this theory, however, is that I haven't smelled any burning oil or witnessed any gray smoke.
Unfortunately, I haven't paid close attention to the oil levels in recent moths, so I can't say definitively whether or not the levels have fallen since the last oil change.
Where the residue is coming from and if it's a problem requiring immediate attention?
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We've got a 2009 Impreza 2. The MPG indicator has been hanging out at 29 for a few months. Is this very sad? How do we get it "unstuck?
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When I turn the air conditioner on, the vehicle will vibrate loud sometimes, also when I brake the vehicle, this vibration occurs?
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My car smells a little like something's burning and sounds like I'm engine braking when I take my foot off the gas (on the flat). My brother stated definitively that it was the rear differential - something about burning oil. I took it to the dealer who said it couldn't possibly be from the donut tire I had to use to drive to the airport, but lo and behold - the rear dif was having issues. I read the manual for my 2005 Subaru Impreza very carefully when I changed the tire, in the dark, in my driveway - with a flashlight, and no-where in it did it list how far I could go on the spare.
I ended up going about 50 miles at below the recommended speed because it was 3 AM and I had no other way to get to the airport. It did not mention anything about turning off AWD by removing or adding a fuse (as has been mentioned elsewhere in this forum) or any other way of turning off the AWD for that matter. It said NOTHING anywhere - I checked before, after, and again just now. Even when I called the dealer, AAA, and four different tire shops no-one could tell me how far you can drive on a spare or whether or how it might damage my car.
Anyhow I bought 4 new tires before driving home from the airport, but seem to be stuck with burned oil in the rear differential. The dealer acted like there was nothing they could do except replace it when it got bad (it's barely noticeable now). I asked if they couldn't just change the oil - to at least delay any additional damage but the guy shrugged as if it didn't matter. Is that really true? Is there nothing to do but pay $2,100 to replace the rear differential. Seems crazy.
It's a manual transmission and it did start snowing badly on my way to the airport if it matters (but I was driving very slowly - with hazards on and everything).
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My Impreza has a vibration in the steering wheel around 65+ mph. I had the tires replaced, road force balanced, and new rotors put on. Shake eased up, but is still noticeable and a pain on long drives. I also just had an alignment, but it seems to have gone right back out of alignment after a couple weeks. Car has about 75,000 miles on it. How to remedy this?
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We have a 2006 impreza, that we've been told the Catalytic converter is going out. We cannot seem to determine if there are one or two converters on this car, and want to know if this is something that we could do ourselves once we find out where everything is at?
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We've got a 2009 Impreza 2. The MPG indicator has been hanging out at 29 for a few months. Is this very sad? How do we get it "unstuck"?
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I am currently trying to decide between the 2015 Impreza Sport sedan and the 2015 Impreza Sport sedan with the technology option (eye sight, push button start, etc.)
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I have a 1995 Subaru Impreza L and just about a month ago my left headlight hasn't been functioning right. When I have the switch on Lo-beam both lights are lit almost evenly but when I switch the hi-beams on the left headlight gets very, very dim and the right headlight goes to hi-beam... Also sometimes the hi-beams just don't work at all until I wiggle a wire up above the brake pedal.
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I have a 1995 Subaru Impreza. When I am turning my front end clicks and the faster I go the faster it clicks and then just kind of goes away, but the one I'm most concerned about, is that sometimes when I'm going about 50-60 mph my front wheels start shaking left and right really fast and it jerks to the left every time the wheels shake to the left, but shaking and pulling gets worse after I let off the gas. It sometimes goes away after I step on the gas but then returns when letting off the gas.
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