Subaru - Impreza :: 2009 - AC Compressor Seized
Sep 4, 2014
My ac compressor has seized up and now needs to be replace at a cost of nearly 2,000. Maybe I can go a few weeks with out it, but I will not be able to have heat or defrost as the colder temps come in for the fall. Why this would happen? 109K on the odometer. The mechanic also suggested that I change the timing belt and the water pump (neither are broken) replacing these is also expensive. am I crazy for not changing the timing belt and water pump?
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I have a 2001 Subaru Forester which has 165K miles. I had the timing belt changed at 105K per maintenance recommendations. I had the car in for service recently for brake pads, etc., and the dealer recommended replacing the drive belt for the AC.. which I did. 100 miles after this service, the car broke down unexpectedly. The dealer told us the AC compressor seized up... and this caused the drive belt to get caught on it and be shredded ... and with that, the sudden resistance from the drive belt on the crankshaft pulley caused the timing belt to slip out of sync and damage the interference design engine. Can that really happen? I surprised that this happened a few days after replacing a drive belt and wondered if somehow the service work done with the drive belt could have caused the problem. The dealer states the service work did not cause the problem. Is my recent service and damaged engine a coincidence as the dealer said or are they related?
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I bought (in November 2012) a 2009 Subaru Impreza. On a couple of occasions, when I put the car in Drive, it started going in reverse (in a flat parking lot). Each time, I put the car back in Park, turned the ignition off, started up again and it seemed fine - till yesterday. I was in a parking lot again, tried putting the car in drive and it went in reverse! A few times in a row, till I got so close to the vehicle behind me that I had to call roadside assistance... What's going on??
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We've got a 2009 Impreza 2. The MPG indicator has been hanging out at 29 for a few months. Is this very sad? How do we get it "unstuck?
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We've got a 2009 Impreza 2. The MPG indicator has been hanging out at 29 for a few months. Is this very sad? How do we get it "unstuck"?
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I have an 09 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport with 70k miles. I recently had new rotors and new tires replaced, an alignment and recently brought it into the dealer for its standard 60k tune up. I now feel a shimmy in my steering wheel at about 65-70 mph. It tends to come and go but I do a lot of highway driving and I feel it quite a bit. I already had the tires rebalanced 3 times and when that didn't fix the problem the shop replaced the tires with a brand new set. I still fill the shimmy. Is this a common problem with Subaru?
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My 2009 Impreza 2.5i manual transmission makes a clunking binding when I turn. What the issue is it goes away and comes back.
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I bought a used 2009 Subaru Impreza wagon, 2.5i NA, manual trans a month or two ago. I'm in Texas and only recently it's started getting fairly hot (above 90 during the day). I mention the temperature because the thumping noise I've noted when turning only seems to appear after the car heats up, or when I have been driving it for a good 30 or so minutes. I'm not sure if it's the car heating up or the heat of the day. Either way it doesn't make the noise right as I start driving (in the morning when it's cooler). For this same reason when I took it to the Subaru dealer (during the cooler morning), they didn't note the noise and said all they could hear was the steering rack hitting the stops. I mentioned that I was worried about the CV joints and they said they would drive it around in figure 8's - again nothing noted. They said they checked the boots and they looked fine. The mechanic that talked to me said something about the pressure in the power steering pump building up when you turn the wheel all the way right or left, possibly making that noise.
THE SOUND: a loud thumping (it resonates through the whole car) it isn't a clicking noise, it is repeated and the rate at which it repeats increases the more the wheel is turned.
WHEN IT HAPPENS:- After the car has been driven about 30 - 40 minutes in 90+ degree heat (the heat may or may not be related)- When turning the steering wheel about 180 degrees or more left or right - it only occurs in those ranges of degrees, so I've only noted it in parking lot type situations or when doing u-turns. i.e. I haven't noticed it at higher speeds.- It seems to get louder the more the car is driven or the hotter it gets (again not sure which one, possibly they are related)
I'm mainly concerned because I'm doing a trip to Detroit, MI from Texas in a few weeks and I don't want to get stranded in the middle of no where. If it is indeed the power steering pump and not the CV joints, I'm just concerned about how loud it gets and how it gets more intense the more I drive. Is there something I can replace to make it go away!? Such as the power steering pump?
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I recently had a full tune up at 87,000 miles. My receipt does not mention any inspection of the A/C system. 50 miles after the tune-up, my A/C compressor seized. Dealer claimed this was simply coincidence. I think there is a chance that they checked the A/C Coolant level and may have not secured the valve. I cannot find on the internet evidence that this compressor is prone to failure at just 3 years (87,000 miles).
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Two weeks ago, I had a/c repairs done which involved the replacement of the a/c field coil unit and a condenser fan motor. Yesterday, the compressor seized up. Could the repair, if done incorrectly, have caused the part failure?
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The car is an '06 Passat 2.0T 83k. A few weeks ago my wife came home complaining that the battery light was on, when I lifted the hood I saw that the belt was shredded and later realized the compressor seized. I replaced the parts recommended; Compressor, condenser,etc., brought it to service station that does our fleet cars and had the system vacuumed and recharged. Now the compressor will not turn on, when I push the button on the dash it lights up but no a/c, the fans dont even come on comes on. The blower and all the related switches works but no power to the compressor. All the fuses are fine, and when the guy at the service station put power directly to compressor it comes on and works fine, he also said the pressure sensor/switch checks out fine. I even changed the controller on the dash, but nothing.
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I haven't been on for a while but new issue my AC won't work the compressor is not seized it just wont come on checked all the fuses and tried to check the wiring but it is so short then it go's into the main wiring harness is there a way to see if it is the compressor or not some way to test it? It is on my 2002 explorer 4.0l vin "E" eddie bower.....
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I just bought a 96 f250 5.8
Upon driving home, i tried the ac again and the ac clutch started to smoke. I replaced the clutch with one from autozone, but when I tried it again, it made a screaming death noise upon clutch engagement. Is my compressor seized?
I tried to turn the clutch (not the pulley, that spins fine) by tapping one of the slots and bolts with a screwdriver/hammer. It was firmly locked in place. If the compressor was OK, would it have turned easily? If I need to replace the ac pump, who sells a good/cheap/reliable one?
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I have a 2001 ford f150 with a 4.6 liter v8, my ac compressor is completely seized up, I can't afford to replace the ac right now. So I would like to just get a shorter serpentine belt to bypass the ac for now, need to get a measurement on the shorter belt for my engine? and the proper way to re route the belt without the ac?
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I have a 2012 Subaru Impreza 5spd, I bought it new about a year ago and every +- 2000 miles my low oil light comes on. The Subaru dealer is telling me this is normal. After happening 5 times in the past year I am getting fed up and believe there is something wrong with the engine. I Know many people with newer Subarus and none of them are having this issue with the oil light. When the light comes on and I check the oil I see that I am a full quart low, the dipstick comes out dry. The dealer has been insisting that this is consumption is normal. I finally called corporate last week and when they returned me call they told me that after contacting the dealer there was no evidence of low oil levels.
I attribute this to the fact that the dealer told me to top the oil off before driving, so of course the oil levels will appear fine when I bring the car in the next day. Regardless the woman from subaru corporate told me that consumption of a quart within 1200 miles is abnormal, however, she never said that it was normal for consumption rates of a quart per 2000 miles. So is this rate of consumption normal, and should I be concerned? There is no leaking oil that I can see, also where does the oil go in a closed system? I don't smell burning oil or see any smoke in the exhaust. I have begun carrying oil with me due to the frequency of this and am scared to drive it when the light comes on because I feel it will damage the engine.
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Gas light came on yesterday but when I went to fill the tank... Gas would not go in and the tank acted as though it was full, spitting the gas back out.
I propped the valve open for 15-20 minutes and when tried to fill again, it allowed me to pump gas. Is this a serious issue that I need to address immediately? What if I never let tank go below 1/4 full?
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,So my 98 subaru impreza acts rather funny for the first 5-10 minutes after start up. Basically what happens is I turn the ignition and it takes longer than usual to start up and when it does the car acts like its running on fumes. When I'm idling the car shakes like its struggling to get fuel in the engine and when I drive it it jerks along for the first 10 minutes or so when I have to accelerate. Usually after about 10 minutes of driving the problem goes away, but since I primarily drive it to work abut 15 minutes away, its like the majority of my commute. The problem usually happens more when i let the gas get below 3/4 of a tank so I try to keep it topped off.
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The check engine light on our Subaru keeps coming on. The first time, the computer showed that it was an issue with the gas cap. They reset the light and we were fine. The second time, apparently, they could not check if it was the gas cap b/c the tank was full. So, we had them just change out the cap. Well, now it has happened a third time.
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I have a 2004 Subaru WRX Wagon with 138,000 miles whose CEL light is on. I have had a private mechanic replace the plugs and wires and tune the car, light went out but came back on. He said the misfire is at 1,3. He swapped the coils and determined that was not the problem. Told us to take it to the dealer and check the codes. Brought it to a Subaru dealer and they ran the diagnostics and it came up Code P0301. Compression test and leakdown test were fine. They removed spark plug for cylinder 1 and inspected with camera. Found exhaust value darker than other but not sure that is the problem. They were unable to determine the cause of the check engine light. They claim the next step is to drop exhaust and inspect valve guides or remove heads to inspect valves. I have read many stories on line about how engines were pulled when in many cases it was not an engine problem at all. Car is running fine but does idle hard and will hiccup on highway.
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I have a 2003 Subaru Forester, manual transmission, about 117k.Three weeks ago I go to back up and the car feels like the wheels have seized up, wasn't able to budge an inch. I couldn't pull forwards or back. Called the tow truck, brought it to the mechanic and the next day they call and said the rear brakes are almost metal to metal, and that the e-brake pad needs to be replaced as well. So I have that work done and a couple days later the same thing happens. I go to the store and when I go to leave I couldn't pull forward or back. It felt like the brakes were engaged and if I were to give it too much gas something would break.
Called the tow truck again to have it brought back to the mechanic, but this time I couldn't wait to meet the tow there, so I just left the key with the mechanic (mechanic was only a couple blocks from where I was stuck). The next day the mechanic calls to say that the tow truck driver didn't have any problem pulling the car onto the tow, and they didn't have any problem pulling the car into the garage. They put it on the lift and took a look, but couldn't see anything wrong with it.I drove it to work and back the next two days and then it happens again. I try to go in reverse and the wheels have seized up. Went back to the car about an hour later and there was no issue. Drove it a couple more days without a problem, then it happened again this evening. This time it begrudgingly pulled forward a couple feet then stopped. Left it there for about an hour, came back and was able to drive it away without issue. When it seized up I couldn't even push it while in neutral.
What could be causing my car to not want to pull forward or back like this?
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My 2015 impreza w/under 100 miles would not start. It turned over but the engine would not engage. The dealership told me the electronics in the car drains the battery and I had to start my car every day. Sounds like garbage to me. I did not drive it for one day and it would not start and it is summer time. What's going to happen in the winter? I have a 1998 Honda with 218K miles that is very reliable but it is not AWD. I cannot believe Subaru would have such fantastic ratings on safety and all weather AWD and be cheap on this problem if it is one. I need a reliable car and that is why I bought a Subaru to get around in all weather conditions and be safe. What good is it if the car won't start? Reminds me of a Nissan I had years ago that would break down frequently when I drove it. I got rid of it at 34K and 3 fuel pumps later.
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