We have a 2006 impreza, that we've been told the Catalytic converter is going out. We cannot seem to determine if there are one or two converters on this car, and want to know if this is something that we could do ourselves once we find out where everything is at?
View 18 RepliesOn my 2002 Subaru Forester (137,000 m), the check engine light came on. They diagnosed and repaired O2 sensor. About 300 miles later it came on again, this time they said the catalytic converter was cooked, and they blamed whatever caused the O2 sensor to fail (or the O2 sensor failure itself). After the repair (about $1300 and 30 miles later), I discovered that the engine oil was so low that it was not showing up on the dipstick (tho the oil light was not yet on). The shop (after admitting that they did not check the oil while it was in there) said it was related to catalytic converter failure. Does this make sense? I have only gone another 60 miles since the oil was refilled, but so far it looks OK. Should I be on the look-out for anything else?
View 16 RepliesI'm getting smoke from the catalytic converter area on my 2001 Subaru Forester. The smoke smells of rubber or oil. I've only noticed it after the car has been driven up a long, steep incline of at least a couple of miles. I've never seen it happen after normal highway driving. The car runs fine, gas mileage is good, CE light is not on, 85K miles, regularly serviced.
View 2 Replies2001 sub forrester. In 2009 it was intermittently stuttering: tuneup, new coil, finally O2 sensor (both) replaced which fixed it. In Oct started to do the same thing. First the back then the front sensor replaced but they commented the flow was low on the catalytic converter but wouldn't say it could be the cause of the sensor issue. Now the O2 sensors are on either end of the converter and the car is starting with early signs already. Is is reasonable that it is the catalytic converter? I am wrestling with just having them do the full tuneup and replace the converter or am I crazy?
View 7 RepliesHeard a funny intermittent rattle and my mechanic told me that my check engine light should be going on any time now as my cat converter is bad. The part is about a thousand bucks! Looked on line and see some aftermarket ones from walker and some other retailers. My car has 103K miles on it,.
View 17 RepliesMy 2000 Forester has 96,000 miles on it. A few months ago, the CEL came on. At first it would turn off every couple of days but would eventually pop back on. I first thought it was tied to putting gas in the car, now I think it was just a coincidence.
Over the past two months, I have replaced the catalytic converter with a aftermarket piece (done by a mom and pop muffler shop) and replaced the front o2 sensor three times. The first two times, I used Bosch sensors from an auto parts store and had the code cleared. After about 50 miles the CEL came back on. Just yesterday, I picked my car up from the dealership where they installed a Subaru fron o2. After about 30 miles, the light is back on again. Code is P0133 - heated oxygen sensor, bank 1 sensor 1, circuit slow response.
Now, the dealership is suggesting I need to replace the catalytic converter with a Subaru converter before they can source the issue.
engine light and flashing cruise control switch--computer says replace bank one---so I replace with factory catalytic converter----six months later light comes back on with flashing cruise control switch and computer asking me to replace bank one---So I use computer to shut light off----four weeks later light comes back on----called dealer they said "we usually replace both banks"---I found it most painful paying for dealer supplied catalytic converter even when I was under the impression that it would keep light off.---This is my wife's car and she is not really buying the piece of black electrical tape I placed on dash over check engine light.---Am I dealing with a bad oxygen sensor ?
View 5 RepliesI needed to replace the same (rear) catalytic converter of my 2006 Honda Pilot LX (2WD) in less than 16 months. The first time it happened in October 2014 when the vehicle had 160K miles (Car's service code was P0420), and the second time it happened this month (same code P0420), when the vehicle had 184K miles. I have it replaced at Honda Service both times.
When it happened for a second time so quick (160k miles wth first converter vs 24K miles with the second converter), I asked Honda Service for a free warranty replacement, but they said it only has 12K miles, and 12 month warranty on repairs, they called Honda corporate to see if they would do anything extra (they did not), but Lute Riley gave a discount to do it at their part & labor cost only ($800 first time vs $550 second time).
What could be the cause of the second catalytic converter to go bad so quick? I have been the owner and only driver of the vehicle since i purchased it new and my driving habits have not changed.
I have noticed lately, when the car is hot, while pulling into my quiet garage, and even when the car is in park, engine running --- hearing some clicking / ticking coming from, or near the Catalytic Converter.... It sounds as if a small piece of metal is rattling inside with the flow of air... It stops clicking once the engine is turned off.
View 5 RepliesI wanted to get some input about lowering my 2010 Corolla LE. I wanted to go about 3 inches, but have been told i will need to replace some extra parts. Not sure where to begin, but i'm not afraid to ask questions or get dirty. I hear a lot of different things and i'm on over load with info.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2006 Jeep Liberty with 135,000 miles. My check engine light is mostly on. Sometimes it is off. One mechanic tested the car and said the catalytic converter is bad. Another mechanic said that test can often be false positive and it might only be the O2 sensor. The difference between the two is about $1,000. Which mechanic is correct? My car is registered in a state that doesn't do car inspections.
View 19 Replies06 Camry SE I4
I had to replace my catalytic converter because of the code I was getting. It wasn't difficult to do, but took me a while because I had to transfer the thread rods to the new CAT. Once the new CAT was installed, I went to test her out, but noticed that the car all of a sudden, has no electrical power. Nothing at all. I checked all fuses and nothing is blown. The only electrical I messed with on the car was the O2 sensor.
Car has a brand new battery from yesterday. The only thing I didn't do is install a support bracket on one side, because it was missing a bolt and one thread rod was stuck in the old CAT, i couldn't remove it.
A friend suggested that the missing bracket may be causing a ground issue. Is this true?
Just the other day I got the clutch replaced on my 06 WRX. I took it to a reputable workshop that I've dealt with before. When I got it back the clutch pedal feels very soft and goes to the floor with ease, whereas before it was a lot harder and felt good. It works good and dosen't slip but just a soft pedal. I also went for the OEM replacement and not aftermarket. Some of the google searches I've read say the pedal will get harder after about 1000-2000 km.
View 5 RepliesMy son recently bought a 2006 Subaru Impreza with a manual transmission . He has driven it a few thousand miles & it seems to run fine with no obvious problems . Ever so often he hears a brief pssst . I haven't heard it but from his description it sounds like a brief release of pressure . It does it at idle & also while driving down the road . As far as he can tell there is no rhyme or reason to it . What it might be ?
View 3 RepliesI have a subaru impreza 2006 with about 100K miles on it and it makes a chirping noise--which i think might not be coming from the engine or the belts because i had the belts, transmission and stuff all replaced about 8 months ago when i got a tune-up--but I don't know.
The sound most of the time usually happens when i am making a left turn(but sometimes happens while going straight but never in reverse or right turns) while accelerating from a complete stop. However when i take my foot off the accelerator while in motion it the sound stops.
This sound occurs maybe 25-30% of the time. What is going on????
2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i ... My vehicle struggles to start. Symptoms present at what seems random and the rest of the time it starts up no problem. I turn the key and the motor turns over a few times without starting then stops turning over yet still sounds as if the ignition and starter are still functioning, just with out success. No grinding or clicking, but the very audible sound of the car trying to start remains, but with out the cyclical turning of the motor. If I continue to keep the key turned for several seconds it sometimes will turn over again and start sluggishly but not always. I replaced the battery and it had no effect.
View 4 RepliesA few months ago, my car started making a loud whining/buzzing sound when I started it. The sound is distinctly coming through the speakers in the car, but turning the radio volume knob doesn't make it quieter or louder (though turning the radio completely off makes the sound stop). The sound persists until the car warms up, then the buzzing sound slowly fades away, and the voice/song on the radio slowly comes back until the buzzing sound is completely gone.
I recently took my car to a mechanic to have the timing belt and head gasket replaced, and the mechanic couldn't figure out what the problem was. What could be the root of this problem? 2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5 ...
I purchased a 2006 Impreza 2.5 back in July, and since then, have replaced the cam seal twice but I am still having problems. I smell burned oil and see faint smoke coming from the motor (lookers right- battery side). My local mechanic thinks the camshaft might be at fault, but is unsure. I have only owned Subarus, and have never had this issue with any other models. Head gaskets are brand new, same with timing belt, water-pump, radiator, and cam seal. Vehicle has 160k on it, and is my daily driver.
View 9 RepliesI recently had my catalytic converter replaced with a non-OEM cat. The check engine light came on and a different shop (different from the shop that replaced the cat) said that it will keep coming on because I had the cat replaced with a non-OEM cat.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 VT GTI with 155K miles on it. It is in very good condition. I have loved the car except for the high maintenance costs that typically seem to be associated with VWs.
I found out this week after my check engine light came on that the car needs a new catalytic converter and a new new secondary air pump.
Let's assume that this diagnosis is correct and the repair is accurate for the sake of this posting (and I have no doubt it is). In other words, I don't want to get my question derailed on that issue.
The car has new Michelin tires on it and runs well. The problem is that it will fail the state emissions test I am required to take next December, and I will either be forced to have the car repaired or will not be able to get updated license tabs (isn't that sweet?!).
It seems that I have a few options:
1. Get the repair done (ouch) and keep driving the car for a few more years. Repair cost is about what the market value of the car is (from what I have seen).
2. Sell the car "as-is" between now and December and see what cash I can get out of it. Any buyer will discount the value of the vehicle based on the repairs needed. Of course, then I'll need a replacement vehicle of some sort.
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
How to Replace a Catalytic Converter
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