I recently had my Subaru Impreza (2011) brought in for repairs to replace the brake pads and rotors. Upon driving home from the repair shop, I noticed that it was a lot harder to pull up on my parking brake than before when I parked.
My question is: is this a sign of something I should go back to the mechanic about? Is there such thing as the parking brakes being on TOO tight? I just wanted to be sure.
My daughter has a 1993 Subaru Impreza with 5 speed manual transmission. I have been driving it because of problems getting it to go in 1st gear. Most of the time the car goes from a stop just fine, but whenever it is on any kind of uphill grade the car seems to be stuck like the brake is still engaged. I hear a "grinding noise" I think is coming from the right rear wheel. This happens only in 1st gear, then the car is fine after that, I tried starting from 2nd but the same thing happens. This car is front wheel drive.I think the brake may be sticking in the rear wheel. The car has a new clutch and I put in new brakes all the way around. Is there a way that I can temporarily disable the right rear brake (drums)? Maybe then I could isolate the problem.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1999 Subaru Impreza Wagon that I have owned for about 2.5 years, and I love it. I travel for work and I use rental cars alot. I have noticed in the past year that my brakes feel softer than most cars I drive, but I figure.. they are new cars, and my car is pretty old.
In the past 2-3 months I have notices a pulsing in my brakes...it sounds/feels kinda like the ABS, but I was thinking it would be worth getting my brakes inspected soon.
Then this past week, I totally blew a brake line when I was driving.
The car has about 140,000 miles on it and the mechanic says a brake line alone may not be related to the pulsing sounds...because brake lines usually go because of rust....
So...thoughts on things I should be looking at? What could the pulsing be a symptom of?
if one brake line blew, and it is rust, is the other one not far behind? (this was a new england car up until 2 years ago)
I had a problem with the CV Axle and the Wheel Bearings. I replaced them already and I ran into another issue with the Wheel Studs and the Ball Joint, so I ended up replacing them as well. Yesterday I put everything back together after replacing all the parts mentioned before and I made sure everything was bolted down and tightened, and then the tire back on and lowered the jack. I started up my car expecting it to drive just fine and it was harder to get into gear than before and it wouldn't move in reverse, neutral, or drive. I called a Monroe Muffler around here and they told me that the CV Joint is probably not seated all the way inside the Transfer Case.
So later the same day I took everything back apart and made sure that I put the CV Joint back into the Transfer Case and I put the pin back in and made sure that both CV Axles would turn at the same time, which they did. I figured it was good so I put it all back together again and went through the same process as before, making sure everything was tightened down, all the bolts and nuts and pins were where they needed to be. Everything seemed to be good. I put the tire back on again, lowered the jack, started the car and attempted to drive it again. It still won't move. Why this is happening.
I recently (1.5 months ago) had my clutch replaced because my clutch pivot ball was making noise and with 70000 miles on the clutch, the mechanic suggested replacing the entire thing. The clutch works beautifully, except that just recently my clutch pedal has started to make a squeak/ creak noise. It's not very loud, although it seems louder when it's particularly hot and muggy. It sounds like it is coming from the pedal and it makes the noise regardless of whether the car is on or off. What might be causing this?
View 3 RepliesOn my wife's '06 Elantra, the hand brake is very hard to pull up, barely getting one click from it. I've done some looking around and have not been able to find a solution to the problem.
View 2 Replies2001 Elantra, Hand brake stuck, is there a release button? I can not seem to release my hand brake. How can I release it so I can make adjustments?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2012 Subaru Impreza 5spd, I bought it new about a year ago and every +- 2000 miles my low oil light comes on. The Subaru dealer is telling me this is normal. After happening 5 times in the past year I am getting fed up and believe there is something wrong with the engine. I Know many people with newer Subarus and none of them are having this issue with the oil light. When the light comes on and I check the oil I see that I am a full quart low, the dipstick comes out dry. The dealer has been insisting that this is consumption is normal. I finally called corporate last week and when they returned me call they told me that after contacting the dealer there was no evidence of low oil levels.
I attribute this to the fact that the dealer told me to top the oil off before driving, so of course the oil levels will appear fine when I bring the car in the next day. Regardless the woman from subaru corporate told me that consumption of a quart within 1200 miles is abnormal, however, she never said that it was normal for consumption rates of a quart per 2000 miles. So is this rate of consumption normal, and should I be concerned? There is no leaking oil that I can see, also where does the oil go in a closed system? I don't smell burning oil or see any smoke in the exhaust. I have begun carrying oil with me due to the frequency of this and am scared to drive it when the light comes on because I feel it will damage the engine.
Gas light came on yesterday but when I went to fill the tank... Gas would not go in and the tank acted as though it was full, spitting the gas back out.
I propped the valve open for 15-20 minutes and when tried to fill again, it allowed me to pump gas. Is this a serious issue that I need to address immediately? What if I never let tank go below 1/4 full?
,So my 98 subaru impreza acts rather funny for the first 5-10 minutes after start up. Basically what happens is I turn the ignition and it takes longer than usual to start up and when it does the car acts like its running on fumes. When I'm idling the car shakes like its struggling to get fuel in the engine and when I drive it it jerks along for the first 10 minutes or so when I have to accelerate. Usually after about 10 minutes of driving the problem goes away, but since I primarily drive it to work abut 15 minutes away, its like the majority of my commute. The problem usually happens more when i let the gas get below 3/4 of a tank so I try to keep it topped off.
View 2 RepliesThe check engine light on our Subaru keeps coming on. The first time, the computer showed that it was an issue with the gas cap. They reset the light and we were fine. The second time, apparently, they could not check if it was the gas cap b/c the tank was full. So, we had them just change out the cap. Well, now it has happened a third time.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Subaru WRX Wagon with 138,000 miles whose CEL light is on. I have had a private mechanic replace the plugs and wires and tune the car, light went out but came back on. He said the misfire is at 1,3. He swapped the coils and determined that was not the problem. Told us to take it to the dealer and check the codes. Brought it to a Subaru dealer and they ran the diagnostics and it came up Code P0301. Compression test and leakdown test were fine. They removed spark plug for cylinder 1 and inspected with camera. Found exhaust value darker than other but not sure that is the problem. They were unable to determine the cause of the check engine light. They claim the next step is to drop exhaust and inspect valve guides or remove heads to inspect valves. I have read many stories on line about how engines were pulled when in many cases it was not an engine problem at all. Car is running fine but does idle hard and will hiccup on highway.
View 19 RepliesHaving issue with the hand brake? It works fine, just when I want to release it, the brake light stays on and when you drive away hand brake warning comes up and I have to play with the handle to make the brake light go away after release...
View 8 RepliesMy 2015 impreza w/under 100 miles would not start. It turned over but the engine would not engage. The dealership told me the electronics in the car drains the battery and I had to start my car every day. Sounds like garbage to me. I did not drive it for one day and it would not start and it is summer time. What's going to happen in the winter? I have a 1998 Honda with 218K miles that is very reliable but it is not AWD. I cannot believe Subaru would have such fantastic ratings on safety and all weather AWD and be cheap on this problem if it is one. I need a reliable car and that is why I bought a Subaru to get around in all weather conditions and be safe. What good is it if the car won't start? Reminds me of a Nissan I had years ago that would break down frequently when I drove it. I got rid of it at 34K and 3 fuel pumps later.
View 13 RepliesI have started to hear the sound of water sloshing around behind the dash of my 96 Subaru Impreza. I can really hear it when I take a sharp turn.
Today it was raining and it sounded much louder. I can't locate where there may be a leak.
I was looking at pages to remove the dashboard to have a look.
I bought (in November 2012) a 2009 Subaru Impreza. On a couple of occasions, when I put the car in Drive, it started going in reverse (in a flat parking lot). Each time, I put the car back in Park, turned the ignition off, started up again and it seemed fine - till yesterday. I was in a parking lot again, tried putting the car in drive and it went in reverse! A few times in a row, till I got so close to the vehicle behind me that I had to call roadside assistance... What's going on??
View 4 RepliesMy ac compressor has seized up and now needs to be replace at a cost of nearly 2,000. Maybe I can go a few weeks with out it, but I will not be able to have heat or defrost as the colder temps come in for the fall. Why this would happen? 109K on the odometer. The mechanic also suggested that I change the timing belt and the water pump (neither are broken) replacing these is also expensive. am I crazy for not changing the timing belt and water pump?
View 10 RepliesI was changing my oil yesterday and noticed a significant amount of oil residue on a bracket located approximately at the center of the front axle, to the left of the oil pan. I'm confident the leak isn't coming from the oil pan, drain plug, or oil filter, based solely on the location of the buildup, but I was not able to see specifically where the build originated. As this is a Boxer engine, my concern is that the underside of one of the head gaskets may be leaking. My only reservation about this theory, however, is that I haven't smelled any burning oil or witnessed any gray smoke.
Unfortunately, I haven't paid close attention to the oil levels in recent moths, so I can't say definitively whether or not the levels have fallen since the last oil change.
Where the residue is coming from and if it's a problem requiring immediate attention?
We've got a 2009 Impreza 2. The MPG indicator has been hanging out at 29 for a few months. Is this very sad? How do we get it "unstuck?
View 12 RepliesWhen I turn the air conditioner on, the vehicle will vibrate loud sometimes, also when I brake the vehicle, this vibration occurs?
View 1 RepliesMy car smells a little like something's burning and sounds like I'm engine braking when I take my foot off the gas (on the flat). My brother stated definitively that it was the rear differential - something about burning oil. I took it to the dealer who said it couldn't possibly be from the donut tire I had to use to drive to the airport, but lo and behold - the rear dif was having issues. I read the manual for my 2005 Subaru Impreza very carefully when I changed the tire, in the dark, in my driveway - with a flashlight, and no-where in it did it list how far I could go on the spare.
I ended up going about 50 miles at below the recommended speed because it was 3 AM and I had no other way to get to the airport. It did not mention anything about turning off AWD by removing or adding a fuse (as has been mentioned elsewhere in this forum) or any other way of turning off the AWD for that matter. It said NOTHING anywhere - I checked before, after, and again just now. Even when I called the dealer, AAA, and four different tire shops no-one could tell me how far you can drive on a spare or whether or how it might damage my car.
Anyhow I bought 4 new tires before driving home from the airport, but seem to be stuck with burned oil in the rear differential. The dealer acted like there was nothing they could do except replace it when it got bad (it's barely noticeable now). I asked if they couldn't just change the oil - to at least delay any additional damage but the guy shrugged as if it didn't matter. Is that really true? Is there nothing to do but pay $2,100 to replace the rear differential. Seems crazy.
It's a manual transmission and it did start snowing badly on my way to the airport if it matters (but I was driving very slowly - with hazards on and everything).