Subaru - Impreza :: 1993 - While Going Uphill Seems To Be Stuck Like Brake Is Still Engage
Oct 23, 2011
My daughter has a 1993 Subaru Impreza with 5 speed manual transmission. I have been driving it because of problems getting it to go in 1st gear. Most of the time the car goes from a stop just fine, but whenever it is on any kind of uphill grade the car seems to be stuck like the brake is still engaged. I hear a "grinding noise" I think is coming from the right rear wheel. This happens only in 1st gear, then the car is fine after that, I tried starting from 2nd but the same thing happens. This car is front wheel drive.I think the brake may be sticking in the rear wheel. The car has a new clutch and I put in new brakes all the way around. Is there a way that I can temporarily disable the right rear brake (drums)? Maybe then I could isolate the problem.
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My Subaru want to stall when it shifts from a higher to a lower gear when driving up a grade/hill. Also does the same thing when pulling out from a stop sign or traffic light. You need to pump the accelerator to get it going.
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I have a 1993 Subaru Impreza and the hatchback/trunk is no longer opening.It was working fine one day, and then the next day it just wouldn't open.It doesn't feel broken, the handle seems fine...it just won't open anymore.
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We've got a 2009 Impreza 2. The MPG indicator has been hanging out at 29 for a few months. Is this very sad? How do we get it "unstuck?
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We've got a 2009 Impreza 2. The MPG indicator has been hanging out at 29 for a few months. Is this very sad? How do we get it "unstuck"?
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I recently had my Subaru Impreza (2011) brought in for repairs to replace the brake pads and rotors. Upon driving home from the repair shop, I noticed that it was a lot harder to pull up on my parking brake than before when I parked.
My question is: is this a sign of something I should go back to the mechanic about? Is there such thing as the parking brakes being on TOO tight? I just wanted to be sure.
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I have a 1999 Subaru Impreza Wagon that I have owned for about 2.5 years, and I love it. I travel for work and I use rental cars alot. I have noticed in the past year that my brakes feel softer than most cars I drive, but I figure.. they are new cars, and my car is pretty old.
In the past 2-3 months I have notices a pulsing in my brakes...it sounds/feels kinda like the ABS, but I was thinking it would be worth getting my brakes inspected soon.
Then this past week, I totally blew a brake line when I was driving.
The car has about 140,000 miles on it and the mechanic says a brake line alone may not be related to the pulsing sounds...because brake lines usually go because of rust....
So...thoughts on things I should be looking at? What could the pulsing be a symptom of?
if one brake line blew, and it is rust, is the other one not far behind? (this was a new england car up until 2 years ago)
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I have a 10th anniversary Honda Accord. When you apply the emergency brake, the passenger rear wheel brake does not engage. This car appears to have 2 master cylinders, but I could not find any documentation to confirm. Is this correct? The reservoir on the passenger side is way above the max mark. I'm thinking this is somehow related to the e-brake issue.
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1993 Subaru Legacy wagon AWD Auto, press on brake pedal & won't release shifter,unless you press the button at the bottom of shifter.
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My old and often very reliable '93 Subaru's power steering died the other day. I was driving and my engine suddenly started making a deep ticking sound. I pulled over and with it running, popped the hood. The sound was coming from the front of the engine near the visible belts. I decided to keep driving. After about 10 miles that's when the power steering died. Then my battery light and break light came on (which in the past has usually indicated that something is up with the battery or something is drawing from the battery more than it should). THEN I began to smell burnt rubber.
What I want to know is this: my boyfriend says that it's probably the surpentine (sp?) belt or the pump thingy that runs the steering. First, I want to know if I can drive it to the shop or if that is a dangerous thing to do. The steering is really hard but I can still make it work. I'm a grad student and I don't have the money to get a tow, but will will find the money if I have to. Second, is my boyfriend right and will it cost a lot? Again, poor grad student.
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My 93 impreza does not want to start in the morning when it does it will not want to run very good till it warms up.
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I have a 2012 Subaru Impreza 5spd, I bought it new about a year ago and every +- 2000 miles my low oil light comes on. The Subaru dealer is telling me this is normal. After happening 5 times in the past year I am getting fed up and believe there is something wrong with the engine. I Know many people with newer Subarus and none of them are having this issue with the oil light. When the light comes on and I check the oil I see that I am a full quart low, the dipstick comes out dry. The dealer has been insisting that this is consumption is normal. I finally called corporate last week and when they returned me call they told me that after contacting the dealer there was no evidence of low oil levels.
I attribute this to the fact that the dealer told me to top the oil off before driving, so of course the oil levels will appear fine when I bring the car in the next day. Regardless the woman from subaru corporate told me that consumption of a quart within 1200 miles is abnormal, however, she never said that it was normal for consumption rates of a quart per 2000 miles. So is this rate of consumption normal, and should I be concerned? There is no leaking oil that I can see, also where does the oil go in a closed system? I don't smell burning oil or see any smoke in the exhaust. I have begun carrying oil with me due to the frequency of this and am scared to drive it when the light comes on because I feel it will damage the engine.
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Gas light came on yesterday but when I went to fill the tank... Gas would not go in and the tank acted as though it was full, spitting the gas back out.
I propped the valve open for 15-20 minutes and when tried to fill again, it allowed me to pump gas. Is this a serious issue that I need to address immediately? What if I never let tank go below 1/4 full?
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,So my 98 subaru impreza acts rather funny for the first 5-10 minutes after start up. Basically what happens is I turn the ignition and it takes longer than usual to start up and when it does the car acts like its running on fumes. When I'm idling the car shakes like its struggling to get fuel in the engine and when I drive it it jerks along for the first 10 minutes or so when I have to accelerate. Usually after about 10 minutes of driving the problem goes away, but since I primarily drive it to work abut 15 minutes away, its like the majority of my commute. The problem usually happens more when i let the gas get below 3/4 of a tank so I try to keep it topped off.
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The check engine light on our Subaru keeps coming on. The first time, the computer showed that it was an issue with the gas cap. They reset the light and we were fine. The second time, apparently, they could not check if it was the gas cap b/c the tank was full. So, we had them just change out the cap. Well, now it has happened a third time.
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I have a 2004 Subaru WRX Wagon with 138,000 miles whose CEL light is on. I have had a private mechanic replace the plugs and wires and tune the car, light went out but came back on. He said the misfire is at 1,3. He swapped the coils and determined that was not the problem. Told us to take it to the dealer and check the codes. Brought it to a Subaru dealer and they ran the diagnostics and it came up Code P0301. Compression test and leakdown test were fine. They removed spark plug for cylinder 1 and inspected with camera. Found exhaust value darker than other but not sure that is the problem. They were unable to determine the cause of the check engine light. They claim the next step is to drop exhaust and inspect valve guides or remove heads to inspect valves. I have read many stories on line about how engines were pulled when in many cases it was not an engine problem at all. Car is running fine but does idle hard and will hiccup on highway.
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My 2015 impreza w/under 100 miles would not start. It turned over but the engine would not engage. The dealership told me the electronics in the car drains the battery and I had to start my car every day. Sounds like garbage to me. I did not drive it for one day and it would not start and it is summer time. What's going to happen in the winter? I have a 1998 Honda with 218K miles that is very reliable but it is not AWD. I cannot believe Subaru would have such fantastic ratings on safety and all weather AWD and be cheap on this problem if it is one. I need a reliable car and that is why I bought a Subaru to get around in all weather conditions and be safe. What good is it if the car won't start? Reminds me of a Nissan I had years ago that would break down frequently when I drove it. I got rid of it at 34K and 3 fuel pumps later.
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I have started to hear the sound of water sloshing around behind the dash of my 96 Subaru Impreza. I can really hear it when I take a sharp turn.
Today it was raining and it sounded much louder. I can't locate where there may be a leak.
I was looking at pages to remove the dashboard to have a look.
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I bought (in November 2012) a 2009 Subaru Impreza. On a couple of occasions, when I put the car in Drive, it started going in reverse (in a flat parking lot). Each time, I put the car back in Park, turned the ignition off, started up again and it seemed fine - till yesterday. I was in a parking lot again, tried putting the car in drive and it went in reverse! A few times in a row, till I got so close to the vehicle behind me that I had to call roadside assistance... What's going on??
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My ac compressor has seized up and now needs to be replace at a cost of nearly 2,000. Maybe I can go a few weeks with out it, but I will not be able to have heat or defrost as the colder temps come in for the fall. Why this would happen? 109K on the odometer. The mechanic also suggested that I change the timing belt and the water pump (neither are broken) replacing these is also expensive. am I crazy for not changing the timing belt and water pump?
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I was changing my oil yesterday and noticed a significant amount of oil residue on a bracket located approximately at the center of the front axle, to the left of the oil pan. I'm confident the leak isn't coming from the oil pan, drain plug, or oil filter, based solely on the location of the buildup, but I was not able to see specifically where the build originated. As this is a Boxer engine, my concern is that the underside of one of the head gaskets may be leaking. My only reservation about this theory, however, is that I haven't smelled any burning oil or witnessed any gray smoke.
Unfortunately, I haven't paid close attention to the oil levels in recent moths, so I can't say definitively whether or not the levels have fallen since the last oil change.
Where the residue is coming from and if it's a problem requiring immediate attention?
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