Subaru - Forester - Transmissions - Shifters :: 2013 - Engine Will Rev And Then Slip Into Gear
Sep 26, 2016
I have a 2013 Forester with 39k miles, and last week I was 200 miles from home, put it in Drive and it didn't engage. After car was left running for a few minutes, and shifting between P, R, N, & D, it finally engaged. I was able to get it home and took to dealer the next day. They looked at the car, checked the computer logs, and told me nothing was wrong. Since then, it's happened 3 more times, and now I'm noticing it's not shifting smoothly from 1st to 2nd gear (engine will rev and then it'll slip into gear).
To make matters worse, my wife couldn't get it out of Park two days ago. She had to use the shift lock release button, and could only start it when it was in Neutral. She then couldn't get it to back into Park and had to park it on a level surface with parking brake engaged. Heading back to dealer now, but would love to hear others' input.
View 8 Replies
Advertisement
I'm having a problem with my 2009 Subaru Forester.
When I start the car from "cold" (i.e., it hasn't run in several hours, regardless of the actual temperature), the automatic transmission cannot engage drive for several minutes. I can shift the car, and reverse functions normally. When shifting, I can feel the car engage reverse, and feel it shift into neutral, but when I shift from neutral to drive, I can't feel it engage. I can rev the engine, and it will just act as if it is still in neutral. I also cannot use sport mode to manually get the car into gear. After a few minutes (3-4), the car will engage drive. However, at least initially, it still seems to be pretty rough, with a few times where it will rev as if it's half in neutral, and then jump a little. Once it does get going, it settles down and is fine.
I took it to the dealer, but wasn't able to leave it over-night, so they couldn't get the problem to re-engage. They inspected the car, thought that the shift cable was a little stiff, so they took it off, lubed it, and put it back (they recommended replacement, but didn't have the part in stock). The next morning, the problem repeated itself, so it certainly appears that the cable is not the issue. The dealer checked the transmission fluid and said that was all fine.
View 9 Replies
I have a 2001 Subaru Forester which has 165K miles. I had the timing belt changed at 105K per maintenance recommendations. I had the car in for service recently for brake pads, etc., and the dealer recommended replacing the drive belt for the AC.. which I did. 100 miles after this service, the car broke down unexpectedly. The dealer told us the AC compressor seized up... and this caused the drive belt to get caught on it and be shredded ... and with that, the sudden resistance from the drive belt on the crankshaft pulley caused the timing belt to slip out of sync and damage the interference design engine. Can that really happen? I surprised that this happened a few days after replacing a drive belt and wondered if somehow the service work done with the drive belt could have caused the problem. The dealer states the service work did not cause the problem. Is my recent service and damaged engine a coincidence as the dealer said or are they related?
View 3 Replies
My son has a 2001 Forester that's engine will from time to time suddenly rev up while driving on the highway as if the clutch was suddenly disengaged. The clutch only has about 20,000 miles on it and there is no burned clutch smell. What else could this be?
View 7 Replies
My 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan with a 3.8L engine won't shift going up hill. On any incline, it stays in the gear it was in when the incline starts and will never upshift. So we're stuck going 20 to 25MPH up hill. Once we get to the crest of the hill, it shifts to the next gear and we're good to go. From a standing still on flat land, if I nail the accelerator pedal, it also won't shift, I have to back off the accelerator, and it will upshift normally. What's up with this?
Have engine light on and the code indicates a bad EGR valve, and possibly a bad catalytic converter, but Autozone indicated that a bad EGR can also produce a code for a bad catalytic converter. They recommended replacing the EGR valve first, then see if the code comes back. But they didn't know if this would cause a loss of torque, which might be related to the shifting problem.
View 1 Replies
I've a 2002 Subaru Forester, manual transmission. The gear shifter is very loose. While in any gear, the shifter can move to anywhere. For example, when in second gear making a left turn, the gear shifter will flop to the right side near where third or fourth gear are. This doesn't change the gear of operation that the car is in. It just makes it a bit of a challenge to find where the gears are. Sometimes it is a challenge to find reverse.
We've had the shifter bushings replaced and that tightened things somewhat. But it is still very loose.
Mechanics have said that there is nothing wrong with the motion or the way the linkage operates the transmission. So the problem seems to be in the gear shifter.
Is this common on this car?Is it a sign of a bigger problem?What can be done about it?
View 1 Replies
Over the last 2 days, I have a weird issue with my 2013 Forester. When I turn the car off and remove the key I get a beeping like the alarm system and lock system engaged but the doors do not lock nor is the alarm activated. The car and security system work fine. No burnt out head or taillight and doors are fully closed.
View 1 Replies
Replaced original clutch on Subaru Forester at approx. 130,000 miles because of slipping. Drove car for a few days and clutch would judder once warmed-up when trying to engage 1st gear. Took car back to repair shop, they said pressure plate was defective/set too stiff and replaced that. Whole car now shudders when trying to engage in 1st gear once the car has warmed-up and particularly on (even a slight) hill. What's not working correctly? Seen some discussion on throw-out bearings, master/slave cylinders and oil on clutch. Unsure.
View 5 Replies
I have a brand new (2 months old) 2011 Subaru Forester 2.5x that has a 4 cyl engine and a 5 speed manual transmission. This past week it's been cold here in New Hampshire and in the morning when I first drive the car, I have trouble shifting from 1st to second gear. When I shift from 1st to 2nd, I hear/feel some grinding noise as I try to engage 2nd gear. This only seems to happen when the car has been sitting around in the cold for a long period of time. Our garage has been cold (34 deg this AM) for the past week and when I drive out of our driveway and on our street I encounter this problem.
Normally, this problem only happens the first time you shift out of first and into 2nd. However, the other day, when it was very cold (5 degrees out) it happened several times as I drove down the street. After it happened the first time that morning, I stopped the car and drove from a dead stop, shifting from 1st to 2nd. I had problems 3 or 4 times trying to shift to 2nd. I ended up double clutching the car to avoid making the grinding sound. I took the car to the dealer. The couldn't repeat it but I didn't expect it to, because the car was warmed up and it was warmer during the day (low 30's by the time I got to the dealer that afternoon). The mechanic changed the transmission oil and checked the magnet in the pan to see if there were any metal pieces. He did not find any metal pieces. That was two days ago.
Unfortunately, every morning since then the car has had the same problem. Once the transmission has been warmed up it runs flawlessly and I have no problems shifting. I've made sure I am fully depressing the clutch for each shift. The past few days I've been taking the car out on an early morning test run and like clockwork, it has problems on the first shift into second, and it usually works fine after that. I have an appointment next week to leave the car with the dealer overnight. They will test drive it to see if they can reproduce the problem. What might be wrong? I have a workaround solution to avoid grinding the gears. I simply double clutch shift into 2nd for the first few times that I shift after the car has been sitting in the cold for a while. However, this is less than ideal for a brand new car.
View 9 Replies
We have a 2006 Subaru Forester with approximately 118000 miles. My wife is the sole driver of this vehicle, we purchased it used a little over two years ago. When the engine is cold (only when it is cold) a loud "kick" sound comes from what sounds like the rear of the car when and only when switching from second to third gear. The dealership flushed and calibrated the transmission but the problem persists (albeit less).
View 5 Replies
I have a 09 Subaru Forester with 66k miles that vibrates like it is going over rumble strips when it up shifts from 3rd to 4th gear. It occurs under normal (not brisk) acceleration. I had the trans fluid changed at both the 30k and 60k services. I have owned this since new. It began before the 60k service. Also, sometimes the tach will increase revs during this as well. I don't know if this next thing is related but when I once need to merge quickly into interstate traffic I gave it a good amount of throttle and the tach revs increased but the trans did not follow with an immediate down shift.
View 4 Replies
I'm thinking about getting the 2014 Subaru Impreza with the CVT transmission, w/o paddle shifters, and found that there is a manual mode in the CVT. How does that work if there aren't any paddle shifters or actual gears to shift to? (I don't know a lot about cars).
View 1 Replies
After having changed the oil in my 04 Forester multiple times, I must have lost my mind and drained the transmission fluid. I realized this when I started it back up and it wouldn't move. Clearly I put an oil filter on with engine oil around the seal. Should I do a tranny flush or can I just replace filter (with correct one) and fill with tranny fluid?
View 16 Replies
I'll start out by stating that I failed to get new transmission fluid, which definitely caused the issue. So let's go back to December 26th. Check engine light came on, and I assumed it was for the oil (which has never happened before, suspicious). So I changed the oil, and took it for a test spin. Well, a mile later, I was going up a hill, and the clutch started slipping. Yes, I know, it's an auto, but I know the feeling of a clutch slipping... no power, engine revving up, jolting forward when slip stops. At this point, I drive it home without much incident, a few slips and I part it but don't drive it again. Checked the engine, and transmission fluid was out. Filled it back up, seemed to take care of the problem of slipping, but now there's a new problem...
The new problem is the following. Every once in a while, going uphill or applying full power in first gear, the clutch will slip. Also, this happens 99% of the time, first gear to second gear is a bit of a jolt, not much more than normal, but it's noticeable. And the transmission is kind of loud too, first gear sometimes sounds like there's a marble in there. Is this a rebuild? Will it work itself out?
View 3 Replies
I have a 2006 Subaru Forester with a little over 119,000 miles.
For the past several weeks, maybe a month, it has been making a weird noise... it comes from the 'engine' area... my husband thinks it might be a belt or something. Sometimes there is a burning smell, especially if we're on a long trip, going uphill... but the smell isn't always.
The sound sounds like... a remote control car that you push with your hands, instead of using the remote control. So it's kind of like a winding/whining sound... the sound happens when it is in park, and drive, whether I'm driving or at a stop.
View 3 Replies
A significant amount of engine oil was added to my automatic transmission line. I drove the car (2010 subaru forester) for about 10,000 miles. I noticed the transmission slipping. I brought it to the dealer. They found the engine oil in the transmission, flushed and replaced the fluid. The question is How badly is my transmission damage. The warrenty is now voided and I am afraid that I will need a new transmission fairly soon.
View 4 Replies
Engine light came on two weeks ago. Had the code read at Advance Auto Parts. Code = P0420. The only performance issue was that it stalled when I started it the other day for the first time since I bought it last fall. Are there any other clues to tell what it could mean (catalytic converter vs. 02 sensor vs. anything else)? Is it really worth trying some kind of catalytic converter cleaner product?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2007 Subaru Forester, bought from a dealer with 7,000 miles on it in 2007. I religiously had the oil changed every 5,000 miles and had other recommended work done. At 90,000 miles I did not have the work done immediately, but waited until 92,000 miles. My car then ran out of oil, with no smoking, no oil in the driveway, no warning light, so I believe the dealers didn't fill the oil at 85,000 miles. But that's not why I'm writing. I had a remanufactured short block assembly installed and the other work done at the dealer to the tune of over $6000.
Now that I have my car back it hesitates at least once a day, sometimes several times, sometimes several times in a row. It hesitates at about 20 miles per hour, when the gears are changing. Of course, it didn't hesitate when they checked it and their computer says "nothing's wrong". In addition, there was a tapping sound in the engine. Again "nothing's wrong". When I had my car smogged, the smog tech said "OMG, you have a problem with your valves." I took it to the dealer and they then admitted I had a problem with my valves (or lifters) and they fixed it. The hesitation continues. What could be causing the hesitation? They're not smart enough nor do they care enough to figure out what it is.
View 12 Replies
With a cold engine in my 2010 Forester (29,000 miles), the coolant level has dropped from "full" to "low" in the overflow reservoir over the last 8 months or so. The level was down at that time (8 mos. back) and I topped it off. There is no obvious coolant puddle on the driveway. There is a gurgling sound at tailpipes and the exhaust is very wet. I'm worried there is a cooling system leak into the engine. Overall I have not been happy with the service dept. at my dealer (bought the car used from him) and wondering if this is the type of diagnosis and repair that an independent shop could handle.
View 17 Replies
I've 2005 Subaru Forester automatic with 2.5L engine. It ran fine since I purchased it in 2005. However for the last 3 months it is behaving strangely. When it sits in the garage for 2 days or longer, it starts up very rough. It feels like the engine is misfiring. If I let it run for 10 to 15 minutes, it is back to normal!! The car has 80,000 miles. It was tuned up at 61,000 miles. I recently had a diagnostic check done. It showed no problems.
View 1 Replies
After smelling a bit of a "hot oil smell" on and off for several weeks and culminating in a getting smoke from the engine at the end of a mountain road, we took our 2004 Subaru Forrester (147,500) to the trusted mechanic. We were told that it needs head gaskets in both banks.
View 7 Replies
