Subaru - Forester :: Temp Gauge Shoots Up To H And Then The Heat Kicks On
Feb 22, 2007
My lovely little 99 Forester was running fine up until about 6 weeks ago. Now it has always burned oil and my dealership gave the the run around saying it was "normal". Fine, so I've driven around with quarts of oil in my car for the last 8 years, and I dump a quart in every 500 miles. Every time I bring it into for oil changes them I've told them it burns oil.So 6 weeks ago, I start the car and no heat. The temp gauge shoots up to H and then the heat kicks on and the temp gauge goes immediately back down to N. I call the dealership - they say the thermostat is sticking and I'm find to drive it - I get an appt for 2 weeks later.
2 weeks later, car is in the shop and I'm told because I've been driving the car and its been overheating the headgasket is cracked. So I pay the $1,700 to repair it and replace the timing belt and temp gauge.I pick up the car and it is running WORSE than it was when I brought it in with the cracked headgasket and sticking temperature gauge. I call the dealership from the traffic signal up the road. They schedule another appt for a week later.
Week later I bring the car in and the oil light blinks on as I'm driving car into their driveway. Get a call the next day saying I need a new shortblock and it will be $3,000.I meet with dealership and tell them 1) they should have checked the engine/cylinders when they replaced the headgasket and 2) I'm not repaying them to do the headgaskets twice basically.
So they tell me they are crediting me for the headgasket repair job. And get this - the price is $3,000. It actually is $5,000, but they are crediting the headgasket repair job to that.I'm just disguisted and furious at this point. Car has 140,000 miles, and I'm really anal about changing the oil every 3,000 miles - despite the fact since 12,000 miles the car has been having 6 new quarts of oil dumped into it between changes.They are telling me "its my fault" the cylinders are bad because I allowed the engine to run repeatedly overheated.
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So i start my car up drive about fifty feet and my temp gauge shoots all the way up, check engine light comes on and coolant light keeps going off......What is wrong with my car?
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1998 f150 4.6 4x4 auto 180k .... Runs 100% other than a strange and inconsistent overheating issue.
On cold startup truck will warm up. Then the temp gauge drops to practically 0. After 15-20 seconds gauge shoots up to max and then falls back to normal after 15-20 seconds. Then it'll go back to driving normally. At some point it pukes.
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My F250 with V10 has developed an overheating problem. While driving, the temp gauge suddenly shoots to max, and the truck goes into limp mode. Turning off the truck and ignition, waiting a few minutes, and all seems to be well again - sometimes for only a minute, sometimes for several days. No steam leaking, the water in the reservoir seems to be normal temperature, the radiator is not overly hot, and the AC keeps on blowing ice cold. Me thinks it is not really overheating, it just thinks it is. So where to start? Change the temp sensor first, or the thermostat? It seems the hoses are fairly firm, I don't believe they are collapsing from suction.
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Took a 9 hour road trip and after an about an hour of driving we noticed AC slowly lost both cool temp and air flow (makes not different if AC button depressed or not). We could hear the fan but NO air was coming out - as time progressed the high setting on the fan made no noise at all. The vent did not blow any outside air either. There was about a gallon of water dripped from under the car when we reached our destination. The next 2 days, EVERYTHING returned to NORMAL during short trips around town. AC was cool but not cold. On the return road trip, again we slowly lost the AC - as we drove north to MA it got cold outside and when we tried the heat, it was the same problem - we could hear something like a fan but no air at all, heat or vent. No warmth when hand placed on vent and high fan setting made no noise.
The next day - a cold June morning - the heat works great - fan and all.This 2005 Subaru Forrester (100 thou miles - car fax ok) - was purchased from a used dealer last Nov and has been a never ending nightmare (including - but not limited too - the dealer replacing the engine post purchase) - we noticed that the AC was not working at the time of purchase and they signed a paper saying they would fix it - just took it in to the dealer last week to have them repair the AC and then we took the trip. Think all they did was replace the coolant and it blew cold when I left the dealer. I think this has been a problem from day one but could not really tell with the AC during the winter and did not take long trips in winter when using heat...sometimes I did question if the heat was working though.
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I am having a heat problem...first my temp gauge never goes above 160...second...my return heater hose is not hot...my upper radiator hose is tight when I squeeze it.
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I have a 95 ford f350 when u run it with the heat on the truck temp gauge says its overheating the heat will go from nice and hot to ice cold as soon as the temp gauge goes up to the red. I replaced the thermostat also checked for coolant leak cant find any but truck has strong anti freeze smell and the radiator keeps going low on coolant.
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We have replaced the sensor twice now and it still pegs on high. Sometimes when we just start up the car, other times after we are driving.
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I have an '04 Nissan Sentra. I know there is a problem with my fuel pump, which can delay the start on my car, but that is not my real problem. My problem is I have no heat. My car starts fine and never moves above or below the middle on the temperature gauge, but it almost never warms up. The only time it seems to is if I am going over 55 mph and that is only the first time I go over that speed. Once I slow down it stops working and does not come back. The air blows out, but the air is colder than my A/C. I have looked at the coolant and that seems to be fine, so I am not sure where to look next.
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Got a 1995 Toyota Tercel. As the temps have dropped, I have started to use the heat again.
The heat comes on, but not nearly as warm as I remember. And now the temp gauge barely nudges - but does seem to nudge - above stone cold.
I checked the coolant today while the engine was cold. The reservoir is empty but the radiator is filled to the brim.
This isn't the first time this season it has been cold. My best recollection is that, until this week, the heater and the temp gauge had both been working fine.
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A few days ago, the temp gauge in my 1995 Subaru Legacy went sky high in a matter of 2 minutes. I immediately stopped the car, let it cool down & checked the radiator. The reservoir was empty and radiator took about 1/2 gal of water (I figured water was fine since the weather is 90 degrees here right now). Suspecting a leak, I also added a bottle of that "Bar's Stop Leaks" stuff. I hesitantly started making my way home, about 16 miles away. The car was perfectly fine -- no overheating at all. Next day, I drove the car maybe 10 miles & again no problems. Yesterday, I went to a friend's house -- about 50 miles round trip. I assumed (I know, dangerous) that all was well ... until today. This morning I noticed a small puddle of antifreeze near driver's front tire. The reservoir was down by about 1/2 it's capacity BUT the radiator itself was almost full (if it took 3 oz. that was a lot). Now I figure there's a leak, but if there is then why wouldn't the system drain itself all the way? Is it unusual to have a leak that limits drainage?I am also tempted to add another bottle of stop leak but looking around this ...
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Have a 2000 subaru outback 2.5l, automatic, with about 245k, I replaced the thermostat,water pump, the radiator and the car is still overheating. both fans are working. no leaking coolant. Maybe this is related- over heats mostly when driving on the highway. But if a shift the gear to neutral and coast for a minute the shift back to drive the temperature gauge goes down. Whats wrong, running out money fixing the car, but love it driving it in the snow.
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I have been having a problem with my 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4. It started about 2 months ago. I was in traffic (truck hadn't even been on for 15 minutes). The temp gauge spiked, so I pulled over and turned the truck off. I turned the ignition on and the gauge was normal so I started it and all was fine.
Fast forward a little and every so often about every 3 weeks it would overflow (coolant) but not get to the point that it would overheat. I changed the thermostat and all seemed good to go. Fast forward to yesterday morning. Got in the truck and left to go hunting, and I didn't even make it 10 minutes down the road when I turned the heat on and it blew cold.
I started to see the gauge creep up so I pulled over and shut it down. Upper hose was cold, lower is cold and both heater hoses are cold. After some time of waiting, I started it but the gauge kept creeping up and no heat, so I kept shutting it down. After about 5x of this, the heat worked and the upper hose got hot and all was right with the world. SO I drove it home. Coolant is new, flushed about a month ago and was running great since then. Thermostat is new. Do I have a blockage somewhere? Water pump bad?
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Was driving my truck I have a 97 f150 4x4 4.6L, btw. The heater started blowing cold air and I looked at the temp gauge but it was showing lower than it normally does and then, after a couple of miles or so I looked at the temp gauge again. By this time I was in my driveway. And it was overheating it might have been that way before I looked at the temp gauge again. But any way I opened the hood didn't see any leaks, all my hoses were hot except the top heater hose. Also checked the oil it was full and coolant was too, what this could be? Sounds like a t-stat to me? But could be worse. Also forgot to mention that the oil had no signs of water in there nor the expansion tank cap !
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With summer heating up so is the engine. Temp stays normal at freeway speeds but as soon as I hit stop and go traffic it shoots up. Water pump is two years old. I flushed the radiator and didn't get much gunk out. Both fans are running when the AC is on. If I shut the car off but leave the key on the fans do not run when the car is not. I can't remember if they used to or not.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.1
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2007 Honda Odyssey. 105,000. Temperature about 0. 6 hour drive. About 15 minutes from destination, no heat, car starts blowing cold air. Temperature gauge still registers in normal range. Arrive at destination. Later that night, drove about 15 minutes to local ER, and drove back from ER about 2 hours later. No heat, but car otherwise fine. Next day (happened to be Christmas Day), begin drive home. Drive a little more than 15 minutes (about a minute passed the hospital), stopped at a stop light. Car stalls and dies. Restarts, but immediately temperature gauge shoots way paste "H" in a bad way.
Over the next day, local mechanic (in Petoskey MI) checks car, says it is low two gallons of coolant. He says radiator leaks, but he has no radiators there. Everything else works fine, and he says it is safe to drive back to Chicago, as long as I stop to check coolant. Drive home to Chicago, no leakage. Everything works fine. Get home, take car to local Honda dealer. They do "pressure test." Find no leak. Head Gaskets are fine. They see evidence of massive coolant leak (dried coolant all over catalytic converter closest to radiator, and over lower portion of radiator) but find no leak, and coolant level is fine. No sign of any leaks at top of radiator. So, what gives? Car is since running fine, no leaks. Everything works. Still driving in extreme weather in Chicago. Coolant level normal.
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Does the outside air temp make the engine come on to warm up even if everything else favors all electric mode? If so then at what temp does this happen?
I'm asking because there have been a couple of times that the engine came on right after start-up with a full charge and the climate control was not calling for heat.
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When I turn the control to heat the AC compressor kicks in. If turned to vent it does not kick in. Was this just a design flaw.
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02 6.8 4x4 excursion. When I start the truck cold, the trans temp gauge immediately moves to "running" temp. Not really sure how this happens, I'd figure that if the xducer was trash it would ride all the way high or all the way low. What's happening here? I'd sure like a functional gauge...
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I have a 2004 Grand Prix and it is displaying the symptoms of overheating but the temp gauge is not going above normal operating temp. I replaced the thermostat twice, and after driving for about 10-20 mins coolant comes out of the overflow. I'm at a loss, I'm thinking temp sensor(?) But I don't want to keep throwing unnecessary money into it. The fans work fine, the heater blows as it should.
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I have a 2012 Crew cab Silverado 5.3 V8 with the towing package. When I pull my travel trailer (approx. 5000 lbs), the water temp stays 1/2 guage and the tranny temp is 170-190, however, on steep hills the water temp guage goes 2/3 to 3/4 guage for a short time and the tranny temp reaches 200-210 degrees. Is the elevated water and tranny temps okay or should I try to reduce them back to the normal range. What is the max temp I should keep the tranny at?
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