Subaru - Forester :: Transmission Stutter When Slowed Down To About 10mph To Turn And Started To Accelerate
May 6, 2015
When my 06 Forester was still under warrantee I brought it to the dealer to diagnose a "stutter" in the transmission after I had slowed down to about 10mph to turn onto a street and started to accelerate. They could not find anything wrong and so I have lived with it until recently when I decided to try the local tranny shop that has a good reputation. They could not find any problem although at first they thought it might be engine related (mass air flow sensor), but that was ok.
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I have a 09 Subaru Forester (automatic) with 56,300 miles on it. Within the last 100 miles, the transmission has started 'hiccuping' as it changes gears. Also, when the car is cold and first started up, as I drive the rpms rise to around 3k when switching gears; sometimes holding there for anywhere from 3 seconds to 12 seconds before finally changing gears. As the car warms up, this problem disappears, but the 'hiccuping' continues. I took it to the dealer and they flushed out the transmission fluid, but problem still persists. I called the dealership asking for a new transmission because it is still under warranty, but they refused. They are going to check pan for metal shavings, and if they're present then they'll replace trans. If not, then they will replace other parts until problem is fixed.
Also, another important question: If I had the transmission fluid replaced, would it be possible that they may have cleaned out any metal shavings, and when they check 100 miles later, there wouldn't be any? I'm worried that I'm going to get screwed because they eliminated any metal shavings and when they go to look again none will be there because there hasn't been enough mileage put on the car to make them appear again. I do not know enough about cars to know if this is even a possibility. They refuse to honor the warranty until they go through a checklist of possible repairs, and I'm nervous that list will run out when I hit 61,000 miles and warranty runs out.
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I was driving up a fairly big hill in Connecticut using cruise control (65 mph). The transmission downshifted, and the car started to rev (speedometer and tachometer) and slow down. I then felt a clunk and the car started to go again. The car kept on doing the rev up and then clunk as it gradually slowed down. Putting the car in Park caused a grinding noise, and Park did not keep the car from rolling. What did I break?
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I recently purchased a 2013 forester and noticed a slight shudder in the car once I start to accelerate but it only lasts until I hit 20mph or so then disappears. The salesman tried telling me it was a normal subaru characteristic and being new to AWD and subaru I was a suckered and listened to him but after owning the car for a week it's more noticeable than when I first drove the car off the lot. I'm not sure if its the tires out of balance or my half shafts or possibly drive shafts are screwy.
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It happens when I accelerate from 10MPH up to about 70MPH and then is intermittent at higher speeds. The volume and pitch of the whine is constant the whole time I am accelerating. If I brake while accelerating the noise does not change. It is a very high pitched noise almost to the point of being out of range for the ear to hear. The noise is so high pitched that it is hard to determine exactly where it is coming from except I fell like it is behind me. Cornering doesn’t seem to make a difference. I hear it most when I start my commute getting onto the freeway, I have also heard it when I do stop and go while running errands.
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I have a 2010 legacy that I bought roughly three months ago. About two months ago the audio (cd, aux, fm/am, Bluetooth) started to cut out or stutter. I would turn the car off and come back a few hours later and start it back up and it was back to normal. Over time it has become worse to where after sitting over night the audio won't work when I start it back up. The display on the stereo works. I picked up a stereo from the wrecking yard, same model, and the issue was the same... The display worked but not the audio. I took it in to the Subaru dealership and the mechanic diagnosed it as a bad stereo (this was before I picked up a replacement stereo from the wrecking yard). My thought was that the amp was the culprit.
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My car is hesitating when I shift and accelerate, and revving up the tach after I shift into 5th but the speed doesn't match.Also, in order to start the car I have to press the clutch practically all the way to the floor.
It has 53,000 miles on it. I took it to the dealer, and they said I need the clutch and possibly flywheel replaced.
This seems low mileage to me. I have driven a stick for over 31 years. My previous car was a Honda CRXsi and it was over 110,000 miles before I needed a new clutch.
Is a clutch replacement this early normal for this car? Or is it me? I don't think I ride the clutch.
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My car is making a sort of whining noise; it sounds like some sort of tire noise, but I checked the tires and don't see anything that could be problematic. My husband checked to see if anything was rubbing, and doesn't find anything. The car is quiet when it is not moving, and the noise gets somewhat louder and slightly higher-pitched as I accelerate. It almost seems like the noise changed on a different road surface, but again, I don't see anything different with the tires. The car has about 140-150,000 on it. The noise has only been noticeable for a couple of weeks. No other problems, no change in steering or handling. No incident that I can think of that could have been a catalyst.
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My 2000 Forester recently started shaking while driving at highway speeds or while under engine load (hills, accelerating, etc). My first thought was that it was a problem with the alignment so I took it to my local tire shop. The car has 164K on it and has been without a Subaru specific mechanic since my last guy got fired a year ago, though I am trying to get an appointment with the only other Subaru mechanic in the area, outside of the dealership.
The tire shop found an issue with cupped tires (naturally they'd want to sell me tires) and told me that my passenger side rear CV joint was bad and they'd have to replace the axle. Since this sounded credible for the symptoms it was showing and they found me an axle, I told them to go ahead and replace it.
When I got it back the first time, I didn't see any great improvement in the shaking. I also noticed that they'd forgotten to put the bolt back into the bottom of my shock absorber. o_O When I brought it back to them, they fixed the missing bolt and agreed to keep it for a week to troubleshoot where else the shaking might be coming from. In the process, they replaced spark plugs and wires (which it probably needed anyway) and did an oil change, but the shaking is still there after all their tinkering. They suggested the problem may be in the timing and that I should have that checked out.
I don't think they're right about that. The vibration feels (to me) even more like a CV joint problem now than it did before. It shakes more violently and at slower speeds the longer it runs so by the time I get to work (40+ miles) it's almost constant. It stops shaking when you pop it into neutral and let it coast suggesting it's not timing or alignment - and making me think even more that it's something to do with the drive train.
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I have a 2012 Subaru Forester with 27,000 miles on it. It has a rattle that started out in the glovebox area, and has migrated to areas around the dash, center console, liner by the sunroof control etc...I have had the car in the shop 5+ times, the last time being a week and a half. Everyone is baffled by this rattle. It seems to come and go. The glovebox liner was replaced, and other areas insulated, yet it still rattles, although it is not consistent.
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I bought a 2005 subaru forester xt a cohple months ago and then the CEL went on and the cruise control started blinking. The car also shook horribly. Long story short, and $2,300 later, i got the "head gasket set, water pump, timing kit, oil&filter change, " etc... Fixed. Question is, I am driving to Colorado from Maine in about two weeks. How long do subarus last after such repairs? Think ill get a few years out of it? Or should I sell it and buy a more reliable car before the trip out there.
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I just bought a 2006 Subaru forester with 130K miles. Recently, the check engine light came and at the same time the cruise control started flashing. I brought it to the mechanic who said I had a bad catalytic converter. The car seems to be running just fine and now a day later the engine light is off.
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Sometimes the Subaru standard transmission just does not want to go into reverse. I don't see a pattern here, but when it happens I have to double clutch it, or hold the clutch peddle down and move from first to reverse.
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After having changed the oil in my 04 Forester multiple times, I must have lost my mind and drained the transmission fluid. I realized this when I started it back up and it wouldn't move. Clearly I put an oil filter on with engine oil around the seal. Should I do a tranny flush or can I just replace filter (with correct one) and fill with tranny fluid?
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When I first leased my 2010 Prius back in June of 2010, I was able to use the EV mode up to 25 miles an hour. Once it hit 26 or if I were to accelerate to quickly, it would disengage.
Now, actually some months back, I've tried using EV mode but it always disengages after 10mph no matter what I do. I've talked to the service dept at my local Toyota dealership but they have no answers for it.
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A significant amount of engine oil was added to my automatic transmission line. I drove the car (2010 subaru forester) for about 10,000 miles. I noticed the transmission slipping. I brought it to the dealer. They found the engine oil in the transmission, flushed and replaced the fluid. The question is How badly is my transmission damage. The warrenty is now voided and I am afraid that I will need a new transmission fairly soon.
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A gather that the recommended interval for a transmission fluid change is 3 years or 30k miles? And that is drain, change the filter if any, and refill, not ask because the users manual says nothing. Does this apply to a CVT transmission? What about differentials?
(2015 Forester, non-turbo, CVT)
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Is it necessary to check (or change) the fluid levels in the CVT and the differentials?
The manual has the following confusing statement for those:
Continuously variable transmission fluid. It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. Check that there are no cracks, damage or leakage. However, the fluid inspection should be performed according to the maintenance schedule in the “Warranty and Maintenance Booklet”.
The Maintenance Booklet list inspection every 30k miles for : Transmission gear oil, CVT fluid, front and rear differential gear oil.
Another question, how is the Transmission gear oil different from the CVT fluid? And should there not be a third differential, or is that part of the transmission?
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I just bought a 2015 Forester Limited and have put about 1000 miles on it. I love it, and it's the first new car I've owned in a long time, as well as my first Subaru. I regret to say that I've had already had some trouble it, which I hope does not portend future issues. I have had some problems with the power lift gate not opening using the button on the dash- it beeps three times but doesn't open, regardless of the position of the key in the ignition (car is always in park when I attempt it, and the owner's manual indicates that it is supposed to beep twice before it opens).
If I first use the key fob to open and then close it, I'm able to get the button to open the gate but why the gate won't initially respond to the switch on the dash. It's worth noting that this doesn't happen every time I try to open the lift gate using the button, so I've been unable to reproduce the problem for the dealer. Is there a software reset that could fix this, or is it an electrical issue?
The second issue is another intermittent one: the entire heating and cooling system wouldn't turn on after being shut off. I drove a couple hours with the AC on, shut the AC off, parked the car and then restarted it after an hour. When I tried to turn on the AC, I was unable to do so- the entire heating and cooling system was unresponsive. The AC button wasn't responding, I couldn't adjust the fan level, and the mode selector (vent/floor/defroster) wasn't responding either. I pulled over, shut the car off and restarted it and was able to turn on the AC without incident.
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You ever see the Bugs Bunny cartoon from WWII where the gremlin is sabotaging the aircraft? Well, the little bugger is working on my car, now!
The left front headlight -sometimes- does not come on when I turn on the headlights. I can easily make it come on by giving the lens cover a gentle "bop" with my fist; it's not even a hard rap, just a bump, really. Alternatively, if I drive with the light out and hit enough bumps in the road, it will eventually come on by itself.
On the contrary, if the light is functioning, it will NOT go out just from hitting bumps in the road. I've replaced the bulb, it's not that. I've checked the wires, they're free of corrosion. I've used dielectric grease on the connections, to no avail. I'm assuming there is a short or loose connection somewhere but I cannot find it.
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I have a 2002 Forester I have take it to 4 shops and each shop tells me something different. First 2 say to take it to the dealer and have them flash the computer. The dealer says that it is a faulty drain valve and the fourth states he has never heard of a drain valve. Hook up to a scanner and can not clear light. Unhooked battery for 30 minutes light was off for a minute but came back on. Getting extremely frustrated!
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