Subaru - Forester :: Sticky Clutch Pedal
Nov 7, 2012
I recently had the clutch replaced on my 2001 Subaru, now the clutch pedal is sticking, could this be related to the clutch replacement or is this something else? I didn't have such a great experience with the mechanic that did the work so I don't trust him to tell me truthfully whether it's possibly a warranty issue or not. The problem happens intermittently. I'll push down on the pedal and when I release it it will only come back up half way. If you tap it with you toe it pops right up. Doesn't seem to impact the functioning on the vehicle.
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1988 Acura Legend, 2.7L 6 cyl., 181,000 miles only do 6,500 miles a year to train station, parked inside, runs great. Last week parked out in hot sun, '90s, for 8 hours. At first, no problem. When did errand and returned to car, pushed clutch pedal and it would not return or allow gear to engage. "Jammed" into 1st, then could not shift, shifted slightly by pulling up on clutch pedal with my foot. Parked overnight, cool, next morning seemed to be fine and crept to mechanic. Mechanic road tested and found no problem and now seems to be working okay. Would parking in sun, high heat cause "clutch cylinder" to "seize" or "freeze"? Is there a "fix"? Also, increasingly hard to get parts for this car.
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Replaced original clutch on Subaru Forester at approx. 130,000 miles because of slipping. Drove car for a few days and clutch would judder once warmed-up when trying to engage 1st gear. Took car back to repair shop, they said pressure plate was defective/set too stiff and replaced that. Whole car now shudders when trying to engage in 1st gear once the car has warmed-up and particularly on (even a slight) hill. What's not working correctly? Seen some discussion on throw-out bearings, master/slave cylinders and oil on clutch. Unsure.
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My car is hesitating when I shift and accelerate, and revving up the tach after I shift into 5th but the speed doesn't match.Also, in order to start the car I have to press the clutch practically all the way to the floor.
It has 53,000 miles on it. I took it to the dealer, and they said I need the clutch and possibly flywheel replaced.
This seems low mileage to me. I have driven a stick for over 31 years. My previous car was a Honda CRXsi and it was over 110,000 miles before I needed a new clutch.
Is a clutch replacement this early normal for this car? Or is it me? I don't think I ride the clutch.
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I have a 10 year old 2003 Subaru Forester in "very good" condition....except that the transfer clutch assembly is starting to make noise and the repair shop (at the dealer) says, housing has to be replaced also. The car has 130K miles and has had all its regular maintenance for 10 years. The only major mechanical problem we've had are the head gaskets (which on this year's model were NOT part of the recall). Those were fixed 2 years ago. Some of what I see in the online chatter about transfer clutches suggests that this is a slippery slope and the next thing you know there's the "next thing" that needs to be worked on. We were hoping that the 2014 Forester would get really good mileage (this one got 30 when it was younger) but we hear it will only be 32 mpg so we're inclined to "keep waiting" if this car can be kept happy. Is a transfer clutch repair a big deal?
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I have a 2003 Subaru Forester, bought it this past January. Got 163,000 miles on it, and we've driven it mostly around town. Over the last month, it has developed an intermittent problem with stalling and rough "putt-putt" running, and will only keep running if the gas pedal gets pumped. This seems to happen about every other time we turn it on, but without a pattern. It can be running fine, and then switch mode, as it were, to running rough and tending to stall. I've gotten ignition codes (check engine light came on and I had my guy check it out on the computer) twice. My mechanic (a long-term Subaru mechanic) has checked out the injectors, and replaced the head gasket, but the problem has not changed. I'm thinking that this may be an electronics issue or possibly something in the gas tank/line.
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Right before Xmas our 09 Forester was hit while parked on the street. The whole front end of our car got wrecked. Was still driveable but we needed a new radiator, AC compressor, fenders, bumper, hood, lights, etc...over 5K worth of work.
As soon as we picked it up we noticed that when you press on the gas the car makes a high pitched whistling noise, almost like the noise when you'd try to tune in an old transistor radio. It only happens when the car is driving and the gas is pressed, not when parked or in neutral.
I know we should have probably brought it right back to the shop that day but I really did not like the shop at all and they are not at all convenient to where I live. I've read it could be a loose cat converter. I checked the air intake housing and that is secure.
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1998 Subaru Forester with a weird clutch problem. Clutch works fine in cold weather, but for the last 3 summers when driving in city traffic, the clutch gets spongy and starts to catch lower and lower to the floor. Car has about 125,000mi bought it 2 years ago and don't know when or if the clutch was ever replaced.
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I've got a 2008 Subaru Outback with a 5-speed standard, 50K on it. Lately, when I depress the clutch pedal, it makes a whining noise, in any gear or even in neutral. It goes away when I release the pedal. But it also stops making the noise when the engine warms up. That's the part that confuses me.
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Just the other day I got the clutch replaced on my 06 WRX. I took it to a reputable workshop that I've dealt with before. When I got it back the clutch pedal feels very soft and goes to the floor with ease, whereas before it was a lot harder and felt good. It works good and dosen't slip but just a soft pedal. I also went for the OEM replacement and not aftermarket. Some of the google searches I've read say the pedal will get harder after about 1000-2000 km.
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So... I have a 99 Subaru Outback 5 speed that I love the hell out of. Anyway, recently my clutch pedal has started momentarily sticking mid return. The clutch appears to be fully engaged, but the pedal sticks, or hangs for a moment before popping the rest of the way up. Once, and only once so far, it stuck completely just for a moment before returning after being depressed again. I'm not sure how concerned I should be, and given that the car is new to me I'm still trying to familiarize myself with it.
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I recently (1.5 months ago) had my clutch replaced because my clutch pivot ball was making noise and with 70000 miles on the clutch, the mechanic suggested replacing the entire thing. The clutch works beautifully, except that just recently my clutch pedal has started to make a squeak/ creak noise. It's not very loud, although it seems louder when it's particularly hot and muggy. It sounds like it is coming from the pedal and it makes the noise regardless of whether the car is on or off. What might be causing this?
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L FWD. The gas pedal feels sticking. I cleaned the air intake butterfly once, but it only works for 3 to 4 days. The gas pedal becomes sticking again. What's the problem it might be?
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My car is a 2011 BMW 328i Coupe, currently at 24K mi. Recently i found my cars brake pedal get sticky after Ive applied the brakes from time to time. But nothing server. My routine schedule maintenance will be coming up soon, so i am just wondering what could be the probable cause. Could it be the brake fluid?
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I just bought a 2013 Passat SE 2.5 about a month ago. Since driving it home I have noticed that the brake pedal sort of sticks when I let my foot up off it. It doesn't happen during hard braking, just normal to light, especially when I'm riding the brake in heavy traffic. When I lightly press the pedal in, it feels like something is sticking and again when I let off it has the same feeling and it will sometimes not come up with my foot, but it rather slaps/taps the bottom of my foot while returning to position.
I took the car back to the dealer to check out and of course the service tech didn't feel what I felt. So the let me drive a loaner Passat, same model, and I felt the SAME sensation in its brake pedal. At the time I just chalked it up to "that just must be how these are", but it's kind of annoying and I don't totally feel it's right. What is causing this?
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Ok so I had this creaking noise at first when I press n depress the gas pedal (how normal driving should be) and I sprayed some WD40 and now the noise is gone, but it becomes kind of sticky when pressing and depressing.
It's like when u rub ur finger on a glass window back and forth, there is time when it catches ur finger (sticks) before u can move it the opposite way, it's not smooth as it used to be (my other camrys are smooth).
When pressing a little, then a little more, it has that sticky feel, same thing when depressing the pedal. That's the best I can explain it and it is really noticeable when I'm stuck in traffic.
Do u think I have a bad pedal or some white lithium grease will take care of this?
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2014 SEL V6. My mother bought a Passat last year at my urging and has just told me about an issue she's had since she brought it home. Her throttle is sticky in the very beginning of its travel. Meaning that whenever she starts off, she has to give it a decent shove to get into the 98% of pedal travel that people usually use. Usually this means that she's chirping he tires every time she makes a turn from a stoplight, and gets her head thrown back taking off in a straight line.
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2001 Camry 4 cylinder 86000 miles. I lubricated the springs, mechanism, and cables under the hood and under the dashboard.Gas pedal is only sticky sometimes, usually when pulling away from a red light where the engine speed drops to idle for a couple minutes. Idle is smooth, no check engine light.Any tricks or tips to fix it? Problem started maybe 2 weeks ago. We have had nice warm weather so I don't think it's weather related. All parts are clean and rust-free.
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I have the regular Prius 2012, The brake pedal is attached to a rod that goes into a flex boot and then into the ABS module in the Engine compartment. The Boot is leaking sticky greasy/oily fluid. It not a constant leak. Its like it leaked on a Hot day and then stopped leaking.
Its not the one from my car, but its what I'm calling the ABS Mod Is this not just the lubricant for the Pedal or is this real brake fluid from the ABS module leaking into the Car? took it to Toyota and they said they had never seen this before and they are recommending to replace the entire ABS Module and Brake Fluid at a cost of $3346 + Tax. (roughly $2700 in parts)
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I had the car worked on a while back. They replaced the clutch and the viscous coupling in the transmission. ('03 Subaru Legacy manual transmission) Things seemed fine, then I realized my reverse light was acting like it was going out. Fuses are fine. A while later the car decided the clutch didn't need to respond as smoothly. Then: "Nope, you're funny to think you can drive me. I'm not budging." The car started grinding gears. I have to slam it into gear for it to work so I can drive it home and let it sit. The car will go into gear when off, no problem. New fluid has been put in. Bled. Then some sort of SUPER LUBE was put in and it still grinds. What might be happening? I really don't have the fundage in order to buy a new car at this time. But at the same time I hate feeling like I'm chasing a rabbit down a hole..
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I have a 2004 Subaru Forester xs and the a/c goes out intermittently. I was told I need a new compressor clutch and that the whole compressor assembly will have to be replaced. I contacted another mechanic and he said that he would fix just the clutch but I should replace the whole thing. So, what do I HAVE to do? Are these prices in line? Can I get used parts or discounted parts?
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