Subaru - Forester :: Piston Clatter / Sound Like A Playing Card Against Bicycle Wheel In Colder Temps Only
Feb 9, 2013
I have a 2003 Subaru Forester XS, bought it new, has almost 100,000 miles. Only take it to the dealer. Regular oil changes, and routine maintenance. Around 65-70,000 miles, I began to hear a sound like a playing card against a bicycle wheel in colder temps only. Dealer called it 'piston clatter' and not to worry about it. So I didn't. Over the years it has become a year around sound, even worse in colder temps. I've been afraid to drive it out of town on the interstate or highways because at times the engine sounds as if it's going to jump out of the car. I wrote to Subaru corporate, only to be referred back to the dealer, who again, will only tell me it's 'piston clatter'. I have used fuel additives, and a tank of premium every now and then. Still makes the same sound.
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I have a 2011 honda accord with about 14k miles on it. I recently has ankle surgery and so have not been driving my car much, maybe once a week. I noticed when I have my windows down and am driving at low speed I can hear a sound that sounds like if you were to take a playing card and stick it in bike spokes, then spin the wheel. If I put my windows up I can't hear it. What the problem might be?
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A couple of weeks ago I heard what sounded like a loose heat shield, coming from under the Ex. It went away, but then came back a few days ago. I got underneath and looked at all the welds on heat shields and for anything that seemed loose, I found nothing. Yesterday it started sounding like a card in bicycle spokes, coming from the right rear. This afternoon I pulled the wheel off along with the brake caliper and disc. What I found was that one of the springs on the parking brake shoes had broke and has been ground up in the drum. I didn't take any pictures, but thought if others hear that sound it's something you may want to check.
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My girlfriend has a 2001 Subaru Forester. She just had a new clutch installed. When she got it back there is a chirping sound coming from around the slave piston assembly. The mechanic has worked on it several times and he can't figure out what is causing the noise. I can make the chirping start or stop by moving the fork on back of the slave piston but can't figure out why it is making this noise?
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Recently I have noticed my 1993 Volvo 940 makes a noisewhile driving, that sounds as best I can describe as a card in a bicycle spoke;or kind of like the putt-putt sound, you hear from a large truck idling next toyou. I hear it while driving, wheneverstepping on the gas pedal, but not while idling, or when the car is in park or natural. The faster I accelerate the louder the noiseis. I want to try to trouble shoot this but I do notknow where to even begin looking into this. Maybe there's a leak somewhere.
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Was getting around 52.5 MPG in warmer weather, changed the tranny fluid and normally people report an increase in MPG. We're now getting around 50.5 MPG, so a 2 MPG loss. In addition, temps have gone from around mid-80s to mid-60s. Wondering if that would explain the MPG drop?
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I've got a no crank issue this morning. This truck has done this randomly off and on, mainly during colder temps, but normally if I hold the key in the start position for a few seconds it will crank. This morning, no such luck. Batteries are good, everything has power, I can hear the starter relay clicking when I turn the key to start but it won't turn over. It never does this during warm weather. It got down in the low 40s last night and it's rearing it's ugly head this morning. The only code is the P0341, camshaft position sensor, but I don't know if that would be the cause of this or not. It's a starter issue or the CPS?
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I have an '03 Subaru Forester and my mechanic recently replace the rear wheel bearings and seals. Afterward, I noticed a high pitch squeak from the rear right wheel at slow speeds. I brought it back for my next oil change and had them look at it. I watched them take off the wheel and brake drum. He hand-turned the wheel mount and it made the squeak sound from the bearing. Then he said that it's no big deal and put it all back together.
So, is it really not an issue? I'd rather not have noises coming from something brand new, but I also like my mechanic and don't want to make him do a lot of extra work if this thing is just going to go away on it's own.
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I have a 2002 Subaru Forester with 201,000 miles, it runs great. However, I just put new tires on and I have terrible shaking in both the steering wheel and the seat that was not there prior to the tire change. I went and had them balanced and the mechanic suggested it was maybe a mechanical problem because there is still some shaking. This shaking is also very pronounced when I hit the the brakes but I am pretty sure the brakes are fine because I changed the the entire front brakes, calipers included and the rears last spring. Again, this car is pretty high in mileage and I am pretty sure much of the front end is stock from the factory.
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I have recently noticed a noise that increases as the wheel revolutions increase (one noise per revolution). Seems to be on the right side of the car. Increased sound as I turn left. Decreased sound as I turn right. Could this be bearings or the CV joint?
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Have a 2000 Forester with 114K. Had to replace driver's rear wheel bearing at 100k & again at 110k; when replacement bearing started to fail, ABS light came on because wheel was not spinning true! Replaced passenger's rear wheel bearing at 105k (this one is getting noisy now).
Hard to believe I got 2 "bum' bearings! Not a difficult repair, but this will be 4 bearings in less than 2 years. The car's driven on paved roads & with little load, so it's not from harsh road conditions or heavy loads.
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Well, we let my son take our 2009 Subaru Forester across the country to college, and of course, the car seems to be having issues now. He says he is hearing a "sloshing" sound under the car towards the rear (cargo area) whenever he stops or goes over speed bumps. He insists that he has looked under seats and in crevices for loose items with liquid in them, and nothing. He also hasn't noticed (yet) any spots on the ground under the car.
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When I make sharp turns forward left or right and when I back up and turn left or right my car feels wobbly/grinding. My mechanic says he thinks it "may" be the rear differential needing servicing. I have 135,000 miles. Does that sound right? There is no noise associated with this sensation.
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My car is about 140K miles. It is a 2002 Subaru Forester. For about one month now, my car has this loud metal grinding sound from the rear of the car when I try to climb a pretty big hill. (The grinding sound is rhythmic, it is more like Click Click Click, but loud and metallic). After the climbing, the noise will slowly goes away. The noise never more than 10-15 seconds. The car functioned normally during all other driving but climbing this big hill. ( which I need go to through it at least 3 times a week). What could cause this?
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My 1998 Forester suddenly began pulsing / crunching sound, from the front brakes. I had just performed full brake inspection 2 weeks before. So I removed the ABS fuse (20 amp), and the problem disappeared. Of course the ABS light is also on now, but I can drive the car. I disconnected the 4 wheel sensors from the car harness, connected an oscilloscope to each, and spun the wheels pretty fast. I get 150 MV peak-to-peak from each sensor. Must I replace the "tone rings", or just wire-brush them? Replacing the rings are a BIG job, and the wheel bearings & seals must be replaced, since they don't survive pulling out the axles from the steering knuckle (front), or strut assembly (rear).
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I have a 2012 Forester. When I open the passenger side door first thing in the morning to put my stuff in the car and then close the door - there is a loud metallic noise. It is not repeatable at that time.When I open the driver's side door after work (or about 8 hrs after the first time in the morning) and sit in the car, I get the same noise. Again, it is not repeatable at that time.The dealer says, they cannot recreate the noise but I am getting it regularly every day.I live in Central Texas, the Forester is in the garage at my house and in the garage at work.I am currently at 27,500 miles.
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My mother, who is retired, has a Subaru Forester, probably a 2001 or thereabouts. It runs great, but recently whenever you let off the brakes, there is a high-pitched whistling sound that comes out of the dashboard on the driver's side. My mother claims that she took this to a mechanic and they told her that there is a small vacuum leak in the power brake line. They also told her that the leak was small and that there was no hurry to fix it (that was in April). Now it is August and my mother is still putting off fixing it because of the cost. They will have to pull out the engine and the dashboard to get to the leak. In the meantime, she continues to drive the car saying that the worst that will happen if it fails is that the power brakes won't work, but she'll still have her regular disk brakes, she'll just have to mash down her foot a little harder. Is this safe?
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We have a 2006 Subaru Forester with approximately 118000 miles. My wife is the sole driver of this vehicle, we purchased it used a little over two years ago. When the engine is cold (only when it is cold) a loud "kick" sound comes from what sounds like the rear of the car when and only when switching from second to third gear. The dealership flushed and calibrated the transmission but the problem persists (albeit less).
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I have about 200k on my forester. Friday when I was leaving work I cranked it up and it made a loud knocking sort of sound. I drove it home (about 15 miles) and on the way the sound lessened. It was louder when the car was idling but she made it home ok. Next day, started the car and it happened again. Not more than 50 feet up the road we stopped at a stop sign and it sounded like a semi was starting up around the corner. Much to my dismay it was not a semi but my own car. Engine shut off. We pushed it back to the house and tried to check it out the next day. This time, we started it, didn't go anywhere, and within 30 seconds it turned off. Same loud knocking sort of sound. The confusing part is that all of this happened within two days. There was no gentle sound leading up to it for a few weeks or even a few days. Knocked on Friday, shut off on Saturday. What could be going on?
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I get check engine codes p0301 p0302 p0303 and p0304. Sometimes just one or two sometimes all four. It only happens in fifth gear at or above 2800 rpm. There is no noticeable misfire; my gas mileage is 25mpg and like the advice below, I've changed the wires, and spark plugs but not the coils nor the injectors. I've reset the codes numerous times; it comes back regularly but only in fifth gear at the higher speeds.
The car: Subaru legacy AWD wagon 1999, 2.5 liter 5 speed manual transmission.
To state the obvious, checking for electrical problems is a process of elimination. I've included some points I got elsewhere online to narrow down the cause. What is not discussed, but has been brought up by parts salesman are the sensors. There's five, a cam and a crank sensor as well as three speed sensors. Which sensor that's failing would cause such specific engine codes.
Talking points:
"for piston misfires If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back."Check engine light comes back on
"If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs)."There are no noticeable symptoms.
"Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable)."Done.
"Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced."It passed smog with flying colors. I'm not sure how to check the coil packs but since it doesn't actually seem to miss, I'd think to look elsewhere. -- maybe I'm wrong here.
"I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors." Same conclusion as above.
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A Subaru '09 with 60.000 miles has a damaged piston. The mechanic first said that I need to get a new engine for 5 grand. Now he is looking for other optionsThis car can be sold -in good condition- for about 12.000 but without the engine is worth 4-5.000 should I put a new engine to a 4 year old car? Why can't I change the piston and fix whatever other damage it might have?
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