1998 Subaru Forester with a weird clutch problem. Clutch works fine in cold weather, but for the last 3 summers when driving in city traffic, the clutch gets spongy and starts to catch lower and lower to the floor. Car has about 125,000mi bought it 2 years ago and don't know when or if the clutch was ever replaced.
View 4 Replies98 Jetta TDI hydraulic system ... We just received this vehicle from my mother in law, who is not driving any more. It's a cream puff--79,000 miles, beautiful condition. Problem is the clutch engages lower and lower to the floor, and eventually the shifter gets stuck in gear. The brake pedal slowly sinks to the floor when at stops on hills. Our mechanic tells us these two are connected because both the clutch and brake run off the same hydraulic system.
1st time he said the fluid was filthy, and he emptied the system and put in clean fluid. Worked for a little while and then we were back where we started. Second time he replaced a couple parts on the clutch, replaced this fluid, and this time it ran like a dream for a little over a month. Then the problem just returned. Again he says the fluid is filthy, and now we are looking at replacing the master cylinder and again changing the fluid. The theory behind why this is happening is that my mother in law let the car sit for half a year before passing it on to us. She didn't do much driving the 6 months before that either. I've done research, and this doesn't appear to be a common problem by any means on these cars.
Car: 2010 Forester
Situation: Occasionally (3x a week or so) the car when recently started will, at a long light, start to stall and then catch itself. The last time rpms got so low the dashboard lights lit up for a fraction of a second before the engine caught itself and revved up to a normal 650-750 rpm.
I have taken to the dealer 3 times; one time they kept it for 3 days, they can't reproduce it. Took it home and the next day the gremlin was back.
Would bad lower front ball joints freeze and creak when turning. I have noticed that my car(2010GLS) with 108k miles has a creaking sound when turning the wheels left to right. I poked a hole in the rubber boot covering the joint and sprayed WD 40 in there and now it seem to creak even more. Guess I am going to replace the l and r lower ball joints.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cyl w/ hydraulic clutch, about 95k miles, and an intermittent problem. Normally, my clutch works fine, but a few times a year, normally during the summer, and normally only after driving for a half hour or more, it starts to act up. First, the pedal starts to feel a little spongy. Then, I'll depress the clutch, and when I release it, the peddle comes up, but the clutch does not engage; a few seconds later, the clutch engages fully instantaneously, which usually stalls the engine if I am stopped.
Then, when I try to reengage the clutch so that I can restart the engine, the clutch is very stiff, and I have to pump it a few times, at which time it will depress easily, and then I am usually back to the original problem where the peddle comes up but the clutch does not engage. When I finally make it home and the truck sits for awhile, the clutch then works fine again. I think it is the orig clutch. I have talked to several mechanics about this problem (including the Ford garage!), and they are mystified. One mechanic thinks that it is a problem with the master and slave cylinder combo, and can replace them.
I have a 2012 gti with a short ram intake, downpipe, and apr stage 1+ tune. I got the tune first and, as expected apparently, the clutch started slipping at lower rpm when I start to get on it. I'm ready to do my clutch. That being said, would it be in my best interest to change the flywheel or can I run the stock DM flywheel?
View 2 RepliesI recently had the clutch replaced on my 2001 Subaru, now the clutch pedal is sticking, could this be related to the clutch replacement or is this something else? I didn't have such a great experience with the mechanic that did the work so I don't trust him to tell me truthfully whether it's possibly a warranty issue or not. The problem happens intermittently. I'll push down on the pedal and when I release it it will only come back up half way. If you tap it with you toe it pops right up. Doesn't seem to impact the functioning on the vehicle.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1997 Impreza wagon, 168K miles. There is a creaking noise from left lower suspension. Mechanic lubricated lower control arm bushings and front sway bar links. That lasted about 1/2 mile. It seems to go away when the temperature is high 70's or higher. Steering, etc., seem unaffected. When will this become fatal, if at all?
View 7 RepliesI had my clutch replaced about a year ago in my 2003 mazda b2300 truck. Recently, it's been showing some of the same symptoms that popped up about a year ago. Such as, it's having a hard time going into first gear, and it seems to be generally clunky while switching the lower gears. The first clutch was replaced at 130k so I was alright with that. However, I find it hard to believe that I burned out this new one in a year. I do live in Boston, so traffic is pretty bad, but I try to not ride the clutch in traffic.
View 12 Replies2015 Outlook 2.5 CVT - Regardless of engine temp/or oil temp, transmission will stay in low gears (relative - its a CVT) such that the car is always doing approx. 2100 RPMs. When it occurs, 35mph is 2100 RPMs; when problem is not present, same speed would be approx 1200 RPMs. Same for higher speed. 45mph would be 2100 verses approx 1400rpm. Gear indicator does indicate a '4' or '5' when it would normally be '6'.
Outside temps in excess of 30 degress - no evidence of problem. Below 30, may or may not happen. No check engine light and it does affect MPG significantly.
My Subaru want to stall when it shifts from a higher to a lower gear when driving up a grade/hill. Also does the same thing when pulling out from a stop sign or traffic light. You need to pump the accelerator to get it going.
View 1 RepliesMy car horn starts honking and the lights start flashing, spontaneously. The neighbors are going to kill me if I don't die of sleep deprivation first. The problem started a few minutes after 6 a.m. yesterday, and stopped when I turned the car on I left the car running in the driveway (illegally) and then cut it off after about 30 minutes, and all was quiet until around 8:45 a.m., when it started again. The only way I can get it to stop is to press the UNLOCK button on the car's remote; but that doesn't make it quit for good, sometimes only makes it quit for a few seconds.
Anyway, I drove the car to work and it was nice and quiet all day. (I went by the mechanic's on the way to work and had to set an appt. for Monday but I don't think I can stand it until then. This morning the honking/flashing began at 1:52 a.m. I pushed the remote. It stopped until 2:08. It kind of went like that until I finally started up the car. It is now emitting carbon and I am a zombie. What can I disable or override until a mechanic can take care of this? Is it a mechanical problem? A goofed-up sensor? Is this tied to a computer chip problem?
I have a 1997 F150 XLT 4.6, standard transmission. the problem is every time I push the clutch the 4x4 light on the lower right of the dash pops on the power windows and windshield wipers will not work, releasing the clutch everything and goes back to normal, I checked the relay that was clicking every time I push the clutch in and switched it out same problem. As of yesterday the problem has now reversed, when the clutch is released everything doesn't work and a 4x4 light pops on.
View 6 RepliesReplaced original clutch on Subaru Forester at approx. 130,000 miles because of slipping. Drove car for a few days and clutch would judder once warmed-up when trying to engage 1st gear. Took car back to repair shop, they said pressure plate was defective/set too stiff and replaced that. Whole car now shudders when trying to engage in 1st gear once the car has warmed-up and particularly on (even a slight) hill. What's not working correctly? Seen some discussion on throw-out bearings, master/slave cylinders and oil on clutch. Unsure.
View 5 RepliesMy car is hesitating when I shift and accelerate, and revving up the tach after I shift into 5th but the speed doesn't match.Also, in order to start the car I have to press the clutch practically all the way to the floor.
It has 53,000 miles on it. I took it to the dealer, and they said I need the clutch and possibly flywheel replaced.
This seems low mileage to me. I have driven a stick for over 31 years. My previous car was a Honda CRXsi and it was over 110,000 miles before I needed a new clutch.
Is a clutch replacement this early normal for this car? Or is it me? I don't think I ride the clutch.
I have a 10 year old 2003 Subaru Forester in "very good" condition....except that the transfer clutch assembly is starting to make noise and the repair shop (at the dealer) says, housing has to be replaced also. The car has 130K miles and has had all its regular maintenance for 10 years. The only major mechanical problem we've had are the head gaskets (which on this year's model were NOT part of the recall). Those were fixed 2 years ago. Some of what I see in the online chatter about transfer clutches suggests that this is a slippery slope and the next thing you know there's the "next thing" that needs to be worked on. We were hoping that the 2014 Forester would get really good mileage (this one got 30 when it was younger) but we hear it will only be 32 mpg so we're inclined to "keep waiting" if this car can be kept happy. Is a transfer clutch repair a big deal?
View 7 RepliesSo I have a 95 Legacy sedan, FWD. It's been a kind of problematic car, and the engine was replaced about 5 years ago (I assume with an old unit, but I'm not sure though because though I was in the family I wasn't driving it then). But, it's held up and has continued to be at least roadworthy. But recently, it's developed an issue where the engine will just randomly die while I'm on the road. All/most of the dash indicator lights come on, but if I shift it into neutral and turn the key, it'll come right back up. Occasionally it'll die again almost immediately, but usually it'll be fine for at least a while. And anecdotally, It seems to happen more frequently at lower revs such as idling at a red light (though will occasionally happen while I'm moving), and when the engine is cold - generally once I've driven around for a while, it's not a problem anymore.
View 3 RepliesAfter my local brake shop changed the front rotors and brake pads on my 99 grand cherokee the brake pedal is spongy and long, almost reaching the floor. They don't know why. Apparently they had a problem with fitting the new pads. I took it to the jeep dealer and they told me the master brake cylinder was leaking and needed to be replaced. many hundreds of dollars later the brakes are still spongy and long and does not correct with repeated pumping. The dealer was also stumped and I complained that nothing changed with the new master cylinder. what might be the problem?
View 4 RepliesI have a 02 passat 1.8t 5sp so my question is does clutch catch all the way at the top. this doesn't seem right to me because my brother has had a jetta and the new mk5 gti and they both catch low.
View 1 RepliesI just got my first VW its a 99 passat 1.8 turbo and the clutch seems to catch really high is that normal? its a brand new clutch!
View 2 RepliesThe car has 175,000 miles on it and is having issues starting but only sometimes. The starter turns over but the engine doesn't catch. Usually if I open the hood, pretend to know what I'm doing, and wait a bit, it will start within 10 minutes or less (sometimes it takes a few tries.) I hear a click when the starter is going and the engine isn't catching, very much like the click I hear if I'm driving with the AC on and the AC needs to draw power. I've recently had a tune-up including new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. The mechanic can't figure out what's wrong (doesn't seem to be the battery or the battery terminals). The car even started up FINE at 40 below. I can't really see a pattern to it.
View 3 Replies