Subaru - Forester :: 2005 2.5 Non Turbo Overheating - Cooling Fan Is Always Going At Full Blast
Feb 2, 2013
I have a 2005 Subaru Forester with 88k on it. I bought it with about 70k on and have been doing a lot of the services myself.
I change the oil religiously. I recently changed the thermostat on the car, cleaned out the reservoir and now the car has new antifreeze. The reason I did this was because cars cooling fan is always going at full blast. This only started about 6,000 miles ago. So since it was a easy job I figured change the thermostat. I am in NY and it has been very cold out, but with my 10 mile commute to work by the time I pull into the parking lot the cooling fan is very loud and the noise is very noticeable.
I recently drove up to go skiing, ( the temp outside was 9 degrees) I was on the interstate going about 70 to 77 mph because the car was going uphill and the incline was significant , I would push more on the gas pedal and I would see the thermostat on the dash going up very closely to the red mark. I pulled over a few time, the fans were at full blast.
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My AC seems to function quietly and normally. The compressor kicks on and off like it should, the low side pressure is normal and the cores are clean. It all seems to work just fine. But, on a hot day (80+), the air being forced out inside just doesn't feel very cool, unless I'm sitting in a shaded place, when it's noticeably cooler (about like it should -normally- be). I starting noticing this difference about a month ago when the temperature started getting near 90 and seems to have gotten slowly worse. I bought the SUV 20 months ago as a Subaru Certified Used Vehicle and it's now out of warranty with 62K miles on it and is otherwise in overall excellent condition. Why it's not blowing snow, well maybe not snow, but COOL air?
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I have a 2003 Subaru Forester. It will cool just fine while not moving. It will also cool just fine if I'm coasting down a hill with my foot off the gas. However, on the highway I have intermittent cooling. It cools for 10-15 seconds and then it blows what feels like straight vent for 10-15 seconds. It has a new compressor, receiver/dryer, and expansion valve and is fully charged.
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I just bought a 2015 Forester Limited and have put about 1000 miles on it. I love it, and it's the first new car I've owned in a long time, as well as my first Subaru. I regret to say that I've had already had some trouble it, which I hope does not portend future issues. I have had some problems with the power lift gate not opening using the button on the dash- it beeps three times but doesn't open, regardless of the position of the key in the ignition (car is always in park when I attempt it, and the owner's manual indicates that it is supposed to beep twice before it opens).
If I first use the key fob to open and then close it, I'm able to get the button to open the gate but why the gate won't initially respond to the switch on the dash. It's worth noting that this doesn't happen every time I try to open the lift gate using the button, so I've been unable to reproduce the problem for the dealer. Is there a software reset that could fix this, or is it an electrical issue?
The second issue is another intermittent one: the entire heating and cooling system wouldn't turn on after being shut off. I drove a couple hours with the AC on, shut the AC off, parked the car and then restarted it after an hour. When I tried to turn on the AC, I was unable to do so- the entire heating and cooling system was unresponsive. The AC button wasn't responding, I couldn't adjust the fan level, and the mode selector (vent/floor/defroster) wasn't responding either. I pulled over, shut the car off and restarted it and was able to turn on the AC without incident.
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Original owner of a 2005 Excursion 6.8l v10, 155k miles. About a month ago 10-15 minutes or so into my ride to work on a 50-60 degree morning the check gauges light comes on, noticed the temp gauge pegged to H followed by the check engine light, then limp mode. Turned on front & rear heaters and cold air was blowing. Pulled over, checked under the hood, coolant wasn't boiling, tank was 1/2 full and cold air was blowing thru radiator. 1st thought was T'Stat. So I removed T'Stat added some antifreeze & continued to work w/o a t'stat. Then had heat thru radiator & heat in front & rear heaters. Engine ran cool with no overheat issue.
Bought aftermarker T'Stat (slant) put that in and everything back to normal. About a month later same problem happens at about the same point in my trip to work, temp pegs, no heat from heater and goes into limp mode. Shut the truck off release pressure from radiator and coolant level goes down, seems to feed back into engine. Start the truck up temp goes back to normal and everything is fine for the rest of the day with several starts/stops. Bought FORD OEM T'Stat & replaced. Next morning same problem. So i think maybe there's an air pocket somewhere, add more coolant & fill to proper level when cold. next morning from cold start same problem. Coolant is clean, just changed oil and no coolant in oil. Problem only happens from a cold startup in the morning.
I'm at a loss. I'm thinking of drilling a small bypass hole in the T'Stat.
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My heater and a/c on my car have been acting up!
Yesterday I got into my car I turned on my heater and it didn't work! So I pushed the a/c button and that did nothing either! No air came out of the vents at all even on full blast... So I tried turning it off and back on and nothing happen then it finally worked but when i tried to turn it off it wouldn't turn off then randomly turned off by its self!!!
Whats going on and what I should check for this problem ?
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My dad's 1993 Lincoln Town Car runs great but the fan for heat or AC only will run at full blast or nothing. Makes it difficult to drive when it's real hot or cold out. Can this be remedied without costing an arm and a leg? The car is 21 yrs. old and not worth a lot.
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I have a problem with my 2005 gti 1.8t , I had a issue with my cooling flange leaking, I changed it yesterday refiled it with g12 and distilled water took the car for a test drive about 20 min in see the temperature go up, no steam or water leaking any where, turn on the heat notice no hot air from the vents,turn on the ac no cold air, and the fans are not turning on. Everything worked the day before I did the coolant flange, am thinking is this possible because the coolant temperature sensor broke? fans will not turn on at all even if it overheating. If I leave the radiator cap off the coolant is spiting out of the overflow expansion tank don't know where to start looking for some pointers. Would bad thermostat cause the fans not to turn on?I think is impossible that the fans and the thermostat broke at the same time with the fact that everything worked the day before..
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2005 Dodge Neon SXT 206XXX
Long story short on a trip (about a 1 hr. drive) got about a block away from destination and gauge showed it was over heating. Stopped the car started up after five min. just fine. Got home replaced the thermostat and cap (old cap was junk). New cap was junk aftermarket so yesterday I took the same car on a half hour drive to get a Mopar cap ran just fine up again until a block away, pulled off the road turned it off let it set a few min. then didn't even show it was over heating. Let the pressure off and replaced the cap and added in a bit more coolant ran fine all the way back (even pushed speed in a few spots).
The above is just what seems to be the mechanical side of the issue. After noticing the gauge was going a bit above the normal spot I noticed my cooling fans are not coming on. Checked fuse and tested relays out to be fine. First thought is to check voltage to the fans but also tempted to check coolant temp sensor with bench test. Will be going over to my dads to do voltage testing later today.
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My 2005 Subaru Forester just passed Rhode Island inspection last week. I didn't use for 6 days. Last night when we got home I moved the car and noticed a strong gas smell. This morning on I drove it cold on way to work right away I noticed lack of power at low gear (its automatic trans), a jumpy idle, and some smoke out back (not too much and looked whitish). Check engine light flashed a couple of times but didn't stay on nor flashed continuously. I know flashing CEL is BAD, so I went right back home and parked, didnt even drive a mile.
I'm thinking some sort of cylinder misfire.
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I have a 2005 honda civic. About a month ago it started overheating. Drives Ok on the highway but heats up to the H mark almost as soon as I get off the highway. Have replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator, flushed the system, most hoses, fan, 2 sensors, timing belt, spark plugs and had the head gasket checked 3 times by 2 different shops. Both said it was fine. The mechanic that has done most of the work is baffled. Says he has never seen anything like this and is at a loss as to what to do next. I am supposed to drive this car halfway across the country in a week to meet my husband who is in the air force. Should I just sell this piece of junk!?
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The heater fan in the van will only work on full blast and the rear wiper/ ac button lights flash which I had another 98 caravan that I was driving that had the same issue with the flashing lights. What is that all about?
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My Prius' battery died this week after a respectable 163731 miles. I barely got it to the dealership . It was sluggish, engine racing, one purple bar and the battery fan was going full blast. It totally freaked me out.
21 working days for battery from Japan. I've been expecting it. I figure I can then drive the car for another couple of years.
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I have a 2006 Sonata and just a few weeks ago the AC/Heater Blower would only work on full blast. You actually had to have the control set a little before the full setting to get it to come on. Both the heat and the AC worked. Now, nothing is coming out on any speed setting. I've replaced the blower resistor and checked the fuses/relay and they seem fine.
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This is my first Subaru, and I absolutely love the vehicle; however, because of it, I'm very new to its mechanics. I bought it used from a friend, and I've been driving it for three weeks now, now this noise has come up and I want to verify what needs to be fixed before I start taking things apart. Perhaps you all know what noise this is coming from the compressor/ac idler pulley area?Here are a couple of videos.
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In case it does somehow matter, one of my knowledgeable friends asked me if it makes more noise when I turn, and the answer is no. Also, the noise does not come through the speakers, and from what I understand, that eliminates an alternator problem.
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I have a 2005 Subaru Forester with about 124,000 miles. I've had her since 2012. This year has been rough for her and every month or so there seems to be something that I need to fix.
This time, the check engine light is on, and the cruise light is flashing. Two codes came up:P0442 - Small Evap LeakP0457 - Large Evap Leak
I brought it to a local auto service shop, and they replaced the gas cap, and also cleaned the filler neck with several grits of emery cloth. They cleared the codes, and told me to drive it for a few days.
Well the check engine light came on again the other day.
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I bought a 2005 subaru forester xt a cohple months ago and then the CEL went on and the cruise control started blinking. The car also shook horribly. Long story short, and $2,300 later, i got the "head gasket set, water pump, timing kit, oil&filter change, " etc... Fixed. Question is, I am driving to Colorado from Maine in about two weeks. How long do subarus last after such repairs? Think ill get a few years out of it? Or should I sell it and buy a more reliable car before the trip out there.
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Lately, I've noticed that when I start the car in the morning, the radiator fans come on at full blast, even though it's around 20 degrees F (not all the time, but most days). My temperature gauges all show (what I assume are) correct temps as it starts out cold, water first goes to 200 and stops, then oil slowly climbs and stops at 200 I believe.
They don't climb any faster or slower that I've seen, and usually by the time I get to work (around 20 minutes), the oil temp has probably climbed about 3/4 of the way to normal while the water is steady at 200.
Is this normal? I don't recall this happening, as I would've noticed as the fans are quite loud at full blast. I haven't had a chance to run a diagnostic scan yet, but the car hasn't warned me of anything either.
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I have a '05 Forester XT with 135,000 miles, I purchased the car new and have always performed regular maintenance and oil changes. The car is my baby.On a recent freeway drive I heard a "pop" followed what sounded like a shredding accessory belt. This went on for several miles with diminishing power. There was zero smoke from the exhaust. I managed to coax it into the nearest Subaru dealership. They diagnosed a bad AVCS solenoid, with P0011 error code. They charged me $2200.00 to change the solenoid and clean all the oil feed lines! While they were at it, I had them clean the banjo bolts to the turbo, as this had never been done. The engine was removed from the vehicle for them to complete the work.
Today I went to pick it up, it started right up and idled fine. When I pulled onto the highway and accelerated TONS of blue smoke billowed from the exhaust and it had zero power. Before this the car burned one quart of oil every 3,000 miles. I turned around and the car is now back at the dealership.I'm at a loss as to what to do. The car is not driveable at this point.I hate to point fingers, but what could the dealership have done to cause this excessive oil smoke? Again, the car NEVER smoked before the dealership got a hold of it.
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I have a 2000 Buick Regal LS. This problem used to be intermittent but has gotten to the point that I never see a "normal" operating state from my HVAC controller unit, so I need to get it fixed. The problem is that when I turn my car on the controller comes up completely blank except the 4 red lights on the passenger side climate control. The heater then (at the same time) turn on FULL BLAST and is stuck in the 90 degree setting (hottest possible). I got to the point that I pulled the high fan fuse just so I didn't die of overheating...
Today I tried to replace the actual controller unit with a refurbished unit I bought off of ebay. Unfortunately, I had the same result with the new controller...No display at all, but all red lights light on the passenger side climate control. My thought is that the issue is much deeper than a vacuum line (although I haven't checked them yet) or even the controller unit. I've checked all the related fuses and they all seem to be fine. Could this be a computer issue? If so what is the fix?
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I was driving today and at a traffic light a severe smell of burnt plastic filled the cabin and the A/C blower started to change speed than stayed at full blast and even if I'd turn the knob from side to side or tried to shut everything off with the ""OFF""button nothing would happen........so we drove home and at some point it shut itself off...tried it again and seems ok now.....every dealer closed today and leaving for the USA tomorrow morning.... What the problem could be?
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