My subaru forester, 2002, with low mileage (40K) had routine maintenance 2 mos ago. Now sounds like it revs when in idle, and today began hesitating when I accelerate (a few seconds or so). I plan to take it in but wonder if there's insight before I go in cold (I know nothing about cars). Read on forums could be 02 sensor.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Subaru Forester L with 178,000 miles on it. I just had the valves adjusted. I have replaced the coil pack, #2 injector, plugs, wires, and throttle position sensor. I have also cleaned the idle air controller. The car only shows sign of a miss when it idles. It gets great gas mileage otherwise. I am at a loss on what to do next as the car doesn't have a MAF sensor, I can't do anything with it.
View 19 RepliesMy mom wants to sell her 2002 Ford Explorer w/ 4.0 as enough kids have moved out that the vehicle is no longer needed. It has 162 000 mostly trouble free miles on it. However, for me to sell it for her, I need to get it running well first. The background:
Just recently it fried the alternator. No big deal, got a reman for my dad and he put it in. But now it has this sort of "shudder" at idle and low rpm, and also when accelerating slowly low in the revs. I don't know if it was there before or not because only my siblings drove it, and their not exactly observant. I am positive it is a misfire.
So far I have done the obvious. I have pulled all the plugs, they are nice and tan, re-gapped them (although they were only .002 out of spec at the most). I noticed that one plug wire was broken on the inside, where it connects to the plug. Thinking I solved the problem, I bought a new set of wires and put them on. No such luck however, as the problem continues unchanged. On the new wires, I have verified tons of spark making it through. In an effort to isolate the bad cylinder, thinking maybe it was actually a plug, I started pulling wires off the coil with it running. I could barely notice a change in the engine with any of them, and a couple seemed to have no change at all (again, I may just not have been able to detect it because I could barely make out the other changes).
Next, thinking maybe it was fuel related, I put a stethoscope on some of the injectors and they sounded the same, but I can not get at the back passenger and 2 back driver ones. How else can I test these?
I even went so far as to unplug IAC, engine died immediately so its not that. I also took off the EGR valve and cleaned it, and pushed the plunger up and down lots and it moves freely. I tried pulling off the vaccuum line from the EGR with the engine running and there was no change, but that doesn't really mean anything does it?
So I put it all back together and thats how it sits for the night. On a related note, the CEL is on, but it is on more often than not on that thing, and my dad has taken it to a dealer three times to have codes read and nothing ever shows up. The mechanics keep saying that it has something to do with the fuel cap and pressure or something.
2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?
My husband (yes, him not me) drove my car (2009 Subaru Forester) last night and admitted this morning to enjoying driving through numerous puddles. I'm pretty sure it was more of a rally-car type of driving, not the careful-who-knows-what-is-in-this-puddle type. The car wasn't driven since then, until this evening. I backed out of the driveway- no issues. I started to pull forward and there was a horrible screeching noise. I stopped, backed up & pulled forward again- nothing. So I drove to the end of the block, still nothing.
Pulling away from the stop sign- screeching again. My first thought was metal was dragging on the ground- nope. Turned around & went back home, inspected the car- nothing seems loose or out of place. It seems I can get the noise to happen if I accelerate normally from a stopped position, but if I start out very gingerly its okay. It happens between 1500 & 2000 RPMs, the wheels can be straight or turned.
We pulled off the rear passenger wheel (where the noise seemed to come from) and noticed the nut/bolt thing that is in the center of the bolts for the lug nuts (on the break assembly- I think) is damaged. There is a bright blue mark on it and a divot in the metal. This is the only damage we can see. With the wheel on, it is covered by the center of the hub cap.
My car is a manual transmission and the breaks have never been in use when the noise happens. What could cause the noise...
On my 2002 Subaru Forester (137,000 m), the check engine light came on. They diagnosed and repaired O2 sensor. About 300 miles later it came on again, this time they said the catalytic converter was cooked, and they blamed whatever caused the O2 sensor to fail (or the O2 sensor failure itself). After the repair (about $1300 and 30 miles later), I discovered that the engine oil was so low that it was not showing up on the dipstick (tho the oil light was not yet on). The shop (after admitting that they did not check the oil while it was in there) said it was related to catalytic converter failure. Does this make sense? I have only gone another 60 miles since the oil was refilled, but so far it looks OK. Should I be on the look-out for anything else?
View 16 RepliesEngine light came on two weeks ago. Had the code read at Advance Auto Parts. Code = P0420. The only performance issue was that it stalled when I started it the other day for the first time since I bought it last fall. Are there any other clues to tell what it could mean (catalytic converter vs. 02 sensor vs. anything else)? Is it really worth trying some kind of catalytic converter cleaner product?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 subaru forester that will stutter and backfire without throwing a code, but not all the time. i have had it hooked up to a computer to check the O2 sensors and they are fine, it has a new Throttle position sensor, knock sensor, plugs, and catalytic converters (all put on in the last month). I have called a dealership and they have not heard of this happening, so this is my last resort.
View 15 Repliesmy girlfriend has a 2002 forester and it is making a very loud noise while driving, sounds like a helicopter coming from the front/right. when you let off the accelerator it changes pitch and sounds like more towards the middle...checked for axle play or anything rubbing and things look ok...very confused, i'm a former VW tech and i've never heard this noise before
View 7 RepliesI've a 2002 Subaru Forester, manual transmission. The gear shifter is very loose. While in any gear, the shifter can move to anywhere. For example, when in second gear making a left turn, the gear shifter will flop to the right side near where third or fourth gear are. This doesn't change the gear of operation that the car is in. It just makes it a bit of a challenge to find where the gears are. Sometimes it is a challenge to find reverse.
We've had the shifter bushings replaced and that tightened things somewhat. But it is still very loose.
Mechanics have said that there is nothing wrong with the motion or the way the linkage operates the transmission. So the problem seems to be in the gear shifter.
Is this common on this car?Is it a sign of a bigger problem?What can be done about it?
Out of the blue, our Headlights and Parking Lights would not switch on. Checked the fuses--OK. Tested the Relays--OK. Tried a used switch from my mechanic--no change. In the course of doing that, the Parking Lights came on and would not turn off. Tried disconnecting battery, locking/unlocking with the remote and starting it with the remote--no effect. Had to remove lightswitch 20A fuse to turn the P-lights off. Signals still work ok--with either switch. The car does have a HarmonKardon satellite radio which I've never used but have to turn off every time I start the car. I believe it has some sort of security system which annoyingly flashes a red button which sticks out of the dash.
View 1 RepliesI have an 02 Forester that has 413,000 miles. It needs appox 2 qts of oil @ 4500 mile intervals. Is that too much? Is it going to start needing more oil sooner? I guess I am asking if the end is near?
View 19 RepliesMy 2002 Subaru Forester is making this weird clicking noise and unlocking as I drive. It seems to get worse at night, and especially when turning left, or braking. My mechanic can't figure it out.
View 10 RepliesMy Forester was dead one morning and when I went to jump it off my pick-up in a hurry I did the age old palm to forehead and didn't pay close attention to the posts on my pick-up battery. Crossed the posts.So I began working through the common known issues.Replaced the main fuse. Didn't Start.Replaced the battery. Started... Car shut off while driving. Did not sputter out, simply cut out like turning the key off.Started right back up.Positive battery cable was loose. Replaced it.Grounds are good.Alternator output is good.So here are some more details on the car shutting off.
This last time as I was coming home from the store and the car shut off on the main road through town. I had enough momentum to get off to the side of the road. I tried to start it and it would turn over. Normal turn over sound but the car wouldn't start. I took a minute to check other electrical things in the car with key in the "on" position. Radio worked. Dome/interior lights worked. But then I noticed something strange. None of the dash lights came on (Car is not started but key is in "on" position). The windows did not work either.It started after about 5 minutes time and I made it home, forgot to roll the windows back up. Turned key to "on" again and couldn't roll the windows up. Got out of the car and came back after about 5 minutes, turned key to "on" and the dash lights came on the windows rolled up.
I have a 2002 Forester I have take it to 4 shops and each shop tells me something different. First 2 say to take it to the dealer and have them flash the computer. The dealer says that it is a faulty drain valve and the fourth states he has never heard of a drain valve. Hook up to a scanner and can not clear light. Unhooked battery for 30 minutes light was off for a minute but came back on. Getting extremely frustrated!
View 11 RepliesA friend of mine has a 1989 240 I'm trying to get road worthy so he can sell it. After regapping, cleaning intake, cleaning idler, new sender, new in-tank fuel pump, and new MAF (all needed to be replaced) the engine still has issues accelerating from idle.
Did the usual diagnostics (#2, #6 LED flash modes). Even took apart the throttle body sensor to make sure that was functioning.
Idle is good and smooth. If I slowly open up the throttle the engine behaves well enough, but if I ope up the throttle to, say, 1/8th from idle the engine will hesitate POORLY. I can even make the engine die. I can drop the throttle to zero and rev back up fine so long the revs don't go down to idle. I made double-sure the throttle sensor clicks from the idle position (the sensor just has two spst switches to detect zero and high throttle).
Engine sounds fine otherwise. No problem opening up to full throttle once I get the revs a little above idle.
My car is about 140K miles. It is a 2002 Subaru Forester. For about one month now, my car has this loud metal grinding sound from the rear of the car when I try to climb a pretty big hill. (The grinding sound is rhythmic, it is more like Click Click Click, but loud and metallic). After the climbing, the noise will slowly goes away. The noise never more than 10-15 seconds. The car functioned normally during all other driving but climbing this big hill. ( which I need go to through it at least 3 times a week). What could cause this?
View 2 RepliesMy mechanic told me that the burning smell I've been getting in my '02 Forester when I'm idling is a leaking head gasket. It seems to be a slow oil leak. If I keep an eye on my oil level can I continue to drive the car without doing further damage or having to worry about breaking down?
View 4 Replies2002 Subaru Forester I took my car to the Auto Zone to read a check engine code. It came back as being a "knock sensor". Besides that I needed a battery, and when the guy was putting it in he said my engine was moving too much and that I probably needed motor mounts.
I was looking at a discussion back in 2010 and the Subaru specialist told the person needing motor mounts is rare for a Subaru, is that true? I'm taking it to a mechanic, what should I expect? how many motor mounts does a subaru have?
I have about 200k on my forester. Friday when I was leaving work I cranked it up and it made a loud knocking sort of sound. I drove it home (about 15 miles) and on the way the sound lessened. It was louder when the car was idling but she made it home ok. Next day, started the car and it happened again. Not more than 50 feet up the road we stopped at a stop sign and it sounded like a semi was starting up around the corner. Much to my dismay it was not a semi but my own car. Engine shut off. We pushed it back to the house and tried to check it out the next day. This time, we started it, didn't go anywhere, and within 30 seconds it turned off. Same loud knocking sort of sound. The confusing part is that all of this happened within two days. There was no gentle sound leading up to it for a few weeks or even a few days. Knocked on Friday, shut off on Saturday. What could be going on?
View 19 RepliesI have a 85 bronco 2, but i have no luck with responses in Bronco 2 forum, so here goes. It is the 2.8 carb, manual trans with 109K miles. Idles really well some hesitation when taking off but really bad miss and not power under acceleration. KOEO codes are 31 and 84 CM code 18. I have plugged the vacuum line to the EGR and have noticed a dramatic difference. I have tried to rev the engine and check the vac line to the EGR but I do not feel any vacuum, and at idle the vac line on or off doesn't change things. Any recommendations to whether it is the Sensor or the valve itself and what gives with the 18 code. I am hoping to have timing checked by the weekend.
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