My door ajar light is stuck on in my 2000 Subaru Forester, whether the car is on or not. I had to replace the battery as it ran down the old one. Sometimes it goes off for a week or more at a stretch, but it always comes back on. As of now it has been on continuously for about 8 months. I have tried everything minus taking the door panels off.
View 6 RepliesSo my 2000 ex has the door ajar light on. I have narrowed it down to the drivers side rear door. I have sprayed wd40 and pb blaster into the latch and its still on.
I have taken the panel off and sprayed everything inside. I pulled apart the wires running inside the door and tried doing some experimenting with twisting wires together, Hoping to close off the circuit.
When it rains my "door ajar" light comes on and the overhead lights won't turn off. that's the common problem. i've read many threads where it says to spray liberally with WD40. i intend to do that but the plot thickens.
Usually, after a few dry days, the light goes off and everything returns to normal. Not so any more. the newest episode entails the light staying on for two weeks of good warm, dry weather. naturally i always take the bulbs out. Now, its somewhat sporadic but.... I'll try to explain since I'm still trying to wrap my mind around it.
1. light stays on, dome lights won't go off.
2. tried dome lights couple of times, still wouldn't go off
3. finally, inserted dome lights and they wouldn't come on (except when manually switched on) however the door ajar switch was still on.
4. EXCEPT when i opened the passenger door the domes came on but wouldn't go off so i took the bulbs out again.
5. that's where i am now.
Not positive but I'm thinking since the new wrinkle in established expectations that I'll probably end up replacing the driver's switch. Before I tear up the door panel i need some hints concerning removal. the door has power windows and locks (which i need new actuators but that's a different story). Is there anything I need to watch out for?
So yesterday I installed a Kenwood Double Din with a back up camera....that being said I was in and around the car all day, door panels, trim panels, rear bumper etc etc all removed. After completing the install the "Door Ajar" light stayed on, on the dash. No interior lights remained on to show a doors open, and the trunk light goes out when the doors closed. The drivers side door module is no good, and its been no good for a few months now. It doesn't show when the doors open, so i doubt that is the problem. What it could be? Any way to figure out which door is the one that's staying open?
View 9 RepliesI've spent a lot of time and money putting in nice speakers and audio equipment in my 2009 forester. I also got all of the rattles and vibrations out of the interior except for the passenger side door. I've used sound dampening and checked everything I can, but somewhere on the door panel there is a vibration that I can't find. So, the only thing I can think of its too seal the various seams on the interior of the panel with something. .. caulk or glass sealant?
View 10 RepliesHaving issues with the rear tailgate door unlocking. Seems like mine on occasion is only making a noise but not unlocking completely and showing the door ajar light with the beep. When it happens, its a pain to get it to stop and close completely, or even open. I have to push hard on the door to get it to stop.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Subaru Forester S model with 143k. I have been chasing a front end shimmy since we bought the car used a year ago. I have replaced the front rotors, and pads, cleaned and greased the caliper pins, made sure the calipers weren't stuck, and had an alignment done. There was a bent front passenger wheel that I changed and had the wheels balanced. I have also checked the fuse for the ABS thinking that may have something to do with it. After the alignment provided no change I am stuck.
I just realized that I left out a critical piece of information as I was reading the posts. The shimmy is only under braking and is more pronounced under extra load such as down hill.
I have a really weird problem with my car. Every time that I apply the brakes, I get a bit of a shudder. It just started a couple of weeks ago and we checked the brake pads which were fine and the bearings were good as well. What could be causing this problem?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2012 Forester. When I open the passenger side door first thing in the morning to put my stuff in the car and then close the door - there is a loud metallic noise. It is not repeatable at that time.When I open the driver's side door after work (or about 8 hrs after the first time in the morning) and sit in the car, I get the same noise. Again, it is not repeatable at that time.The dealer says, they cannot recreate the noise but I am getting it regularly every day.I live in Central Texas, the Forester is in the garage at my house and in the garage at work.I am currently at 27,500 miles.
View 19 RepliesMy 2000 Forester recently started shaking while driving at highway speeds or while under engine load (hills, accelerating, etc). My first thought was that it was a problem with the alignment so I took it to my local tire shop. The car has 164K on it and has been without a Subaru specific mechanic since my last guy got fired a year ago, though I am trying to get an appointment with the only other Subaru mechanic in the area, outside of the dealership.
The tire shop found an issue with cupped tires (naturally they'd want to sell me tires) and told me that my passenger side rear CV joint was bad and they'd have to replace the axle. Since this sounded credible for the symptoms it was showing and they found me an axle, I told them to go ahead and replace it.
When I got it back the first time, I didn't see any great improvement in the shaking. I also noticed that they'd forgotten to put the bolt back into the bottom of my shock absorber. o_O When I brought it back to them, they fixed the missing bolt and agreed to keep it for a week to troubleshoot where else the shaking might be coming from. In the process, they replaced spark plugs and wires (which it probably needed anyway) and did an oil change, but the shaking is still there after all their tinkering. They suggested the problem may be in the timing and that I should have that checked out.
I don't think they're right about that. The vibration feels (to me) even more like a CV joint problem now than it did before. It shakes more violently and at slower speeds the longer it runs so by the time I get to work (40+ miles) it's almost constant. It stops shaking when you pop it into neutral and let it coast suggesting it's not timing or alignment - and making me think even more that it's something to do with the drive train.
I have a really weird problem with my car. Every time that I apply the brakes, I get a bit of a shudder. It just started a couple of weeks ago and we checked the brake pads which were fine and the bearings were good as well. What could be causing this problem?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Subaru Forester past warranty. I remove the key from the ignition switch and open the door I get the chime and the doors will not lock with the remote. If I pull the key out rapidly it usually works okay. The Subaru garage wants to replace all locks to fix the problem. That seems excessive to me.
View 1 RepliesVehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
My 2000 Forester has 96,000 miles on it. A few months ago, the CEL came on. At first it would turn off every couple of days but would eventually pop back on. I first thought it was tied to putting gas in the car, now I think it was just a coincidence.
Over the past two months, I have replaced the catalytic converter with a aftermarket piece (done by a mom and pop muffler shop) and replaced the front o2 sensor three times. The first two times, I used Bosch sensors from an auto parts store and had the code cleared. After about 50 miles the CEL came back on. Just yesterday, I picked my car up from the dealership where they installed a Subaru fron o2. After about 30 miles, the light is back on again. Code is P0133 - heated oxygen sensor, bank 1 sensor 1, circuit slow response.
Now, the dealership is suggesting I need to replace the catalytic converter with a Subaru converter before they can source the issue.
when i bough the car i went on a test drive and everything was fine, once i bough it and went home my fiance opened the passanger side door to get in, and every sense than the door ajar light is on and the inside lights will never turn off and its draining down the battery, we have tried slamming the door shut and we just dont know what to do, theres not even a sensor botton to check out theres no way to tell what it could be for me as when i open the door to check out the botton like most vehicles do, there isnt one, what could it be?
View 9 RepliesMy Dome lights don't work when you open the door. I can manually turn them on though. Also door ajar light is on. Are these issues caused by the door latch switch? Also have no fog lights I replaced the switch and bulbs. I have a 2003 F250.....
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 L.L. Bean Edition Forester. The cruise light is flashing and check engine light is solid. I am well into my retirement age and nearest dealer is about 2 hours away. Is this something that local mechanic can fix? He is very good, but not Subaru schooled. I'm afraid to drive it now.
View 2 RepliesJust picked my 2010 Subaru Forester up from getting an oil change. Drove about 3 miles. Car began smoking at a busy red light. Smoke in driver compartment and coming from engine compartment; oil light came on. Luckily, I was less than a block from my mechanic's garage and drove straight there. He said the oil filter "didn't seat" (did they put a little oil on the gasket??). At least 1/2 quart of oil leaked out after I stopped vehicle. What should I expect in terms of damage?
View 17 RepliesI just bought a 2002 Focus ZX5 about a month ago and recently, I've been having issues with my door ajar light coming one while driving. Sometimes it will stay on for awhile and other times it will flicker on and off. I'm not sure how to go about diagnosing this one. I just pray it's not the GEM module.
View 1 Replies2006 durango 4.7 awd checked all recalls, none outstanding. The door ajar light remains on which means the interior light does while driving (along with the warning alarm beeps) and after leaving the vehicle also.
Been around all the doors to make sure they are shut, but cannot turn it off. Where would the switches be located on the doors or is there some other thing I should be looking for.
I have a 2002 Camry SE. Recently, the 'door ajar' light on the dash has come on & will not go off. I have reclosed all the doors: still on. I have individually opened each door & pressed the door switch on & off: still on. I have checked the fuses under the hood & by the driver side panel & all look fine.
Also, two other things are curious about this: when I press the key fob to lock the doors, there is a high pitched whine that come from the passenger side engine compartment, & only stops when I press the unlock button on the fob.
The second is that when I am driving and I try to lock all the doors from the drivers arm-rest control, they all lock but cycle quickly to unlock again & will not stay locked. The dome light will not go off either.