Subaru - Forester :: 1999 - Keyless Remote Control Is Dead
Jun 3, 2013
My Keyless remote control is "DEAD" however my system is somehow engaged. In order to start my 99 Subaru Forester I need to reach under my dashand hold in the emergency override button. Car starts fine every time. Is it difficult to unwire this keyless system? I'm not going to keep this car much longer. Will probably replace car before end of 2013. Easy fix or keep driving as is? Any possible problems if I keep starting car with button release?
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All of the sudden the remote to my 2009 Subaru Outback stopped working. The car doesn't respond at all. I mentioned this when I had the car in for service and they tested my remote. They detected a signal that it was sending out so that means something is wrong on the car side and the remote appears to be functioning fine. Unfortunately I only have 1 remote (bought the car used). I didn't have them look any further into it because they admitted that they had no idea what the problem could be and it would take time to investigate. What the problem could be?
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While waiting at a stop light my car totally died, there were no warning lights, the car is a 2011 Subaru forester with 52,000 km. I had it pushed off the road, tried to restart it with jump cables but it would not turn over. I noticed an odd burning smell when I opened the hood. There were rat tracks on top of the engine area. I had the battery pulled out and replaced with another fully charged but it did not make a difference.
After sitting for two days, I restarted the car and the engine managed to turn over but very very rough, a mechanic thought there was something loose in the engine. I currently live in Mexico and closest subaru dealership is 5 hours away. I will need to get it towed there but I would like to have some idea of what it may be, my thought is somehow a wire got chewed off but I had driven it about 20 miles that morning and then it just stopped dead.
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I have a 2010 Subaru Forester past warranty. I remove the key from the ignition switch and open the door I get the chime and the doors will not lock with the remote. If I pull the key out rapidly it usually works okay. The Subaru garage wants to replace all locks to fix the problem. That seems excessive to me.
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Sometimes when the AC is on automatic control it will kick out of auto control into manual control and the fan will speed up. All this happens without touching anything. Dealer said it's working fine.
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I bought a 2005 subaru forester xt a cohple months ago and then the CEL went on and the cruise control started blinking. The car also shook horribly. Long story short, and $2,300 later, i got the "head gasket set, water pump, timing kit, oil&filter change, " etc... Fixed. Question is, I am driving to Colorado from Maine in about two weeks. How long do subarus last after such repairs? Think ill get a few years out of it? Or should I sell it and buy a more reliable car before the trip out there.
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On my 2007 Subaru Forester (100k miles) the CEL light is on and my cruise control light is blinking (cruise control does not work in this condition). Computer scan indicated front O2 sensor failed and my mechanic replaced it. No joy. Computer scan reported 0 data from EGR valve--replaced it. No joy.
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I just bought a 2006 Subaru forester with 130K miles. Recently, the check engine light came and at the same time the cruise control started flashing. I brought it to the mechanic who said I had a bad catalytic converter. The car seems to be running just fine and now a day later the engine light is off.
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How do i program my keyless entry remote to my 99 grand am?!?
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I recently purchased a 1999 F250 S/D v10 5 speed ext. cab and only received one ignition key (no keyless entry fobs).
The truck does not have a keypad on the doors, but if this truck has the remote keyless entry option, how can I tell?
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I have bought a used 1999 F250 4-door 4X4 7.3. Is there any way to tell if my truck came with a remote for the keyless entry. It has power door locks and windows. I was debating on calling my local Ford dealership and seeing if they could check by the VIN number.
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The head gaskets are less than 2 years old, radiator only almost 3 years old, I've constantly had oil leak issue. Now the problem is my temperature gauge rises after driving for 20-30 minutes when I'm going at a lower speed or in stop and go traffic. Both fans are working, no leaks, new thermostat, and new radiator cap.
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I have a 95 f-250 psd with factory remote keyless entry. about 3 weeks ago i had a fuse blow that powers the keyless entry module, speed control, and a number of other systems.
If I replaced the fuse it blew right away so i got my wiring diagrams out and started unplugging parts of the circuit and my last attempt was to unplug the keyless entry module. presto no blown fuse so i got a module from a junk yard fixed the problem and now it has happened again. same exact thing. unhook the module and no blown fuse. i took the first module apart and saw no burned parts and no visible damage but here i am blowing fuses with no door locks, dome light and a few other things.
The fuse that blows is fuse 8. I am a mechanic and have full access to anything I need. I have another module under warantee but I want to be sure that its not something other than the module causing problems.
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I took my car to my previous shop for a P0325, Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction. They wanted nearly $500 to fix it. My new shop said that I just needed some engine treatment and the code went away for a week and a half, but it came back yesterday, and my engine ran a little rough.
I heard what sounded like a very rough engine and it was my car. The technician came in saying that I was only running on two cylinders, but that sounds like far worse of a problem than I had been experiencing. They say that I need a $266.80 valve adjustment, which is all labor, but the total is $300 more than that:
Engine Light diagnostic: $44.99 Shop Fee: 35.00 Tune up package Remove and replace spark plugs: 60.03 Additional access time - remove: 64.20 and replace spark plugs: NGK Spark Plugx4: 9.96 Adjust Valve Clearance: 266.80 Pepguard Limited Extended Labor: 58.65 Warranty BWD Custom fit ignition set: 36.39
Parts: 46.35 Labor: 436.02 Other: 93.65 Tax: 6.55 Total: 582.57
Of course, my roommate, who is upset that I am not continually pouring fluids into leaky power steering and AC systems butted in and said the entire thing is preposterous. Problems with cylinder firing are invariably the result of bad spark plugs andor wires.
Well, they say that I need to replace those, which cost $46.35, the least expensive entry in the entire estimate. They just want to charge $124.23 to replace them.
Why don't I replace them myself and see if that fixes my problems?
They say that if the valve clearance adjustment does not fix the problem then I need new cylinders and valves.
Regretfully, I have a "service plan:""Engine: All internally lubricated parts contained within the engine block, cylinder head(s) or rotary engine housing(s); oil pump; timing belt or chain, timing gears and timing tensioners; water pump; engine block, cylinder barrels, engine head(s), rotor housing(s) if damaged by the failure of an internally lubricated part. Dipstick and tube; harmonic balancer; oil pan; timing chain cover."
I cannot imagine that it would cover a valve clearance adjustment and they would only cover cylinders and valves "if damaged by the failure of an internally lubricated part."
So, ride my bike eight miles tomorrow, replace the spark plugs and wires, and hope that it is enough?
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I noticed something while riding as a passenger in my 1999 Subaru Forester lately. I was riding in the front passenger seat with the window down, and noticed a strange "spritzing" noise coming from the passenger side front of the vehicle. The sound is very brief, about a second in duration. I heard this repeat several times as we went down the road, and decided to time it. It turns out that this sound occurs exactly every 33 seconds while the car is in gear going down the road! It sounds like a pressure relief valve going off....but what could it be?
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2003 Sierra 2500HD crew cab, my keyless entry remote stopped working completely after I unplugged and connected some wires behind the glove box. I was digging around trying to find the cabin air filter, which I later found out this truck doesn't have one, when I unplugged some wires from a module so I could access the air box easier. I unplugged two plugs that had a handful of wires each, as well as 2 coax type cables. I re-connected all wires when I was done, but when I tried to use my keyless entry remote it didn't work. It worked perfect before this, less than an hour prior.
I had another remote battery so I went ahead and changed it, still didn't work. I tried reprogramming the remote by putting the truck in program mode with the procedure for this truck, but never got the truck to recognize the remote during this process.
I also disconnected the truck battery for 20 min, reconnected then tried reprogramming with same results, remote not recognized.
What the module is behind the glove box? Is it the BCM? Any reason unplugging these wires and plugging them back in would make my keyless entry stop working? I can't find any fuses related to keyless entry, and haven't noticed anything else on the truck not working properly. I really don't like going to a dealership, what else should I look at to diagnose this?
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This problem started a month ago but was intermittant. Now the passenger window is down and I can not get it up. The keyless remote doesn't work at all. I open the drivers door with the key and I can open the drivers door and window from inside but not the passenger door or window.
It is now raining with my window open and a plastic trash bag over it.
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How do I roll down my windows with keyless remote on 2007 Camry LE V6? Honda Accord has the press unlock twice and hold on the 2nd press. Does Camry have anything like that?
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I have a 2005 Prius. The remote keyless entry just stopped working for locking and unlocking the doors. I replaced the battery and it didn't affect it's performance. The key will still start the car without inserting it into the dashboard. It feels like the unlock portion of the remote is "stiff" and does not depress. It is toyota model number B31EG.
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I recently acquire a 03 LE camry and I program the keyless remote and I thought that the car had a alarm but when I lock the car with the remote and open the door nothing happened. I want to know how can i be sure that the car dose not have the alarm unplugged or those not have at all and if it doesn't can I put the VIP RS3200 security system.
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I have an 03 camry . My keyless remote will open all 3 doors except the driver's side door .The other day the drivers side door would not unlock manual,so I had to unlock it from the outside. Somebody told me it might be the actuator in the door.
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