Subaru - Baja :: 2005 - Cover Locks Stuck At Closed Position
Jan 25, 2012
My tonneu cover locks that came stock with the vehicle when I bought it back in 2005 are rusted through and inoperable. I tried to buy parts from subaru parts dealer but apparently they no longer carry the locks anymore as this is a discontinued vehicle. Where I can get one (locks) or if another type of lock will work? Also the handle on my bed door gets stuck in the open position when I open it up and it wont release from the open position unless I force the latch back into the closed position and it will then latch back up. I tried some lubricant but still wont release to the closed position when I pull the handle.
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2005 Subaru Baja. The front right tire stutters-- like it's running over gravel-- after 2-30 minutes of high speed driving, when the car is hot and it's a hard turn like turning into a parking space. Over the last two years or so the transmission was replaced, along with clutch and both front CV joints. Brakes and rotors replaced, and two calipers bored out. Differential was replaced. two different mechanics could not replicate the problem mostly because it required the 30 minutes of driving. But it happens to me every day going to/from work.
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I know this is a minor issue as problems go, but i put coins in my ash trays and just as i placed some coins in the driver ashtray i think one or two of them fell behind the tray and when I placed the tray closed, it closed and will not open. The more i pushed it the more it went in. How do I open this without damaging the wood.
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Car: 1996 Nissan Maxima
The car has an automatic antenna (up/down when you turn on/off the radio). I wanted to disconnect the motor to leave it in the up position. I followed the cables to the antenna (left the coax alone, of course), and cut the 3 conductors that were leading to "a box" under the antenna. NOTE: This area in behind a metal panel.
As intended, the antenna is stuck in the up position. The problem is that I also lost the dash clock, the remote to the door locks stopped working, and the radio memory buttons do not work anymore (the radio comes on in AM every time).
AND here is the mystery; I went back to the cables, spliced them together (correctly - they are color coded) but NOTHING CAME BACK TO NORMAL. The radio is still messed up, remote still not working, and the dash clock is still off.
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I have recently purchased a 2003 Subaru Baja Sport, the car of my dreams! I purchased the car in NC and drove it where I live in SC which is over 250 miles. The car smelled of petroleum based fluid and/or cleaner. I just thought the dealership cleaned the engine or oil may have been spilled during maintenance. A few weeks later, I had it in the dealership and they checked out. The head gaskets were replaced and the problem was to be solved…Nope!
Every time the car is driven on a long trip and the engine/transmission gets hot the smell returns and there are other problems as well. The car will shutter from start through the gear change to 2nd (it’s a manual 5-speed). It also has a “bumping” sound coming from the from the front wheel area during a sharp turn at low speeds, again only after a long trip.
I am clueless to what the issue could be and my dealership/mechanic cannot determine the cause either because of the necessary drive time to get the car to present the issues.
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Over the past 6 years, searching for this problem--burning rubber smell coming from the heater in y 2003 Baja. Not so bad if the re-circulation is on, not so bad outside the car, can be smelled beneath the hood, but unbearable inside. It isn't plastic, oil, fluid, gaskets, wiring, it's rubber, like burning tires. Was barely noticeable when I bought the car 6 years ago, making me think it was just the tires, but it has gotten worse and worse and worse. Sometimes it takes 50 miles to happen, sometimes two, but when it does, I have to open the windows or shut off the blower.
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03 Baja, 4cyl, automatic. 195,000+Every now and again I get a fuel smell. Full tank, empty tank, half a tank... doesn't seem to matter. Usually switching up the gas I put in clears the issue. This time, not so much. Really strong and causing me to banish the car for the garage due to it stinking up the house.The odor MAY be coming from the left/drivers side of the car. (I only say this as if it is outside in the parking lot, I notice it more on that side.
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The larger (60) side of my 2005 Sienna's third row seat is stuck in the "up" position. That is: the seat back will fold down, but the seat will not release from the floor in order to fold down into the well at the back of the vehicle.
The pull tab on the back of the seat that releases it moves in and out too easily. I viewed the mechanism under the seat and it appears that the pull tab is linked to a cable which rotates an armature, which in turn pulls one cable for each leg of the seat to release it. It looks like the cable connected to the pull tab is properly rotating the armature, but the legs aren't releasing. I can't tell for sure but it seems like the armature is rotated into the "release" position but it hasn't released the legs. I've crawled under the seat and tried my best to rotate the armature with my hands and a pair of pliers to no avail.
I was thinking my next step would be to try to rotate the armature with a little gentle persuasion (e.g. a hammer and a screwdriver or piece of wood).
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Need to locate the fuse for the power seats in an 07 Toyota Avalon. The seat has been stuck in an uncomfortable position for a while. Id like to check the fuse before removing the entire seat to look at the motor. Dealer wants $200 for this info.
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I just purchased my first Lexus (very exciting!) But one puzzling issue I've noticed and not sure what the problem is, if it's me or my vehicle. The back cargo cover wont' stay closed. It keeps popping out/up and opening. Quite annoying already and I only had it a few days. Subsequently, it's not hiding a thing in the back.
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I noticed today that my hood is not actually latched in the fully closed position - Hood sits like it's closed, but I can simply lift it up to the popped position without pulling the hood release. Secondary latch is still fine so it stays closed, but I'm in a bind:
So first question -If I cannot fix it, is it safe to drive as is 3.5 hours back home?
Second question - is there a way to get it to latch even temporarily, keeping in mind that the only tools I have are standard screwdrivers and a pair of pliers?
Latch appears to be functioning fine and I can lock a screwdriver in it no problem. I read some threads implying the latch might need to be raised, but as far as I can tell it's already positioned all the way up.
Pictures .....
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My sunroof opened on the highway today with the switch in the closed position. Being a Seattleite, this could create a very wet condition in the cabin! I have owned the car for two years and have never experienced this before.
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Lately, been hearing a lot of creaking noises coming from the sunroof in the closed position. I have open and closed it a few times just to make sure it was aligned improperly. Maybe it was a one-time thing from having it open on a nice day but it has been pretty consistent now. Seems to be fine otherwise, opens and closes, no wind noise when closed, etc.
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The drivers window automatically drops when reaching the closed position. It will stay up if I hold the button.
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Passenger window just stopped working in closed position. Neither driver's or passenger's switch would operate it. Was told it was probably the motor. Replaced regulator and motor. Window went up from half way down position using driver's side switch, then back to not functioning at all. Window lock button off. Also, now the auto up/down for driver's window not working, needs to be depressed or lifted for open/close. Guess old motor and regulator were ok.
2005 HONDA ELEMENT 80,000 MI...
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My driver' side window had been making a thunk sound when first lowered from the full closed position for the last 6 months. I opened the door and couldn't see anything wrong. Now it won't go down at all, although I can hear it seem to try when I push the button. The motor is likely shot or some sort of other problem? It is a 20 yr old car and starting to drink oil, so I want to try to fix if possible cheaply.
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I have just purchased an 06 long bed f-150 with high mileage on it. I am going thru it slowly as time permits. I had found the passenger door stop, not the hinges, to be making a "quite" squeaking noise as it is started toward a closed position. A simple drop or two of oil I am thinking, but it then really increases in sound. I then clean it off and apply a synthetic grease, still loud, maybe louder. I finally got it back to a "quite" squeak again by cleaning it. Use lubricant, or should I just leave it cleaned as it is now?
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My thermostat is stuck closed so it needs replacing. I searched and couldn't find a DIY but there was a thread that says you need to take the whole front end off?
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So I was heading to the airport and needed gas and was in a bit of a hurry to get my flight. I pressed on the gas door as usual expecting it to pop open a bit it didn't! It only pressed in more but did not pop out. I started to panic as I was low on gas and did not have a lot of time to get my flight. I looked in the trunk for some type of emergency release but did not see anything.
I locked and unlocked my door a few times in the hopes it would release somehow but it did not change and I did not notice the usual click from the gas door area. Finally I was able to force the door open with my fingers and get gas. Now when closing the door again it does not sit flush but is sitting in a slightly open position. I'm scared to mess with it more in case it locks shut again and I can't get gas.
I'm shocked this part would stop working the car is only two years old, 2013 with luxury package.
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The door handle isn't broken as far as I can tell, I just went to get in the car one day, put the key in the door lock, turned it to the right like I always do and the door wouldn't open. After trying a few times I went to the passenger side and got in, hit the unlock button to unlock all the doors and the driver door still wouldn't open. I took the trim piece off (the little piece that covers the door lock) the inside of the door and attempted to manually unlock the door by pulling the rod but to no avail.
What I should do next? It seems like I would have to have the door open to get whole inside door panel off so I'm not really sure what to do.
1st gen lumina .....
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On my 1991 945, the electric sunroof won't move at all (stuck closed). The motor visibly twitches clockwise and counter-clockwise in response to the control switch but then stops (or is stopped by the jammed sunroof). All the instructions I've read for working on the sunroof begin by saying "open the sunroof to the vent position" but how do I do that? Presumably there's some manual way, but I don't know what it is.
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