Subaru - B9-tribeca :: Pulsation Happens When Braking And Gets More Severe When Stop From Higher Speeds
Oct 1, 2014
I change my own pads as a good lifetime warranty with free replacement from Autozone is great!
But with the Tribeca... I changed the front rotors just like all my other cars over the years.. and now there is pretty severe pulsation when trying to brake... I've checked the rotors and pad replacement twice now and all looks perfect.
I searched this pulsation issue and saw on a Jaquar site that you can ruin the ABS on some cars when you don't drain excess fluid as you push the piston back to install then new thicker pads..
Is this an issue for B9? I don't see it anywhere... I'm ready to bring it in the shop.. the pulsation ONLY happens when braking and gets more severe when stopping from progressively higher speeds...
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My 2006 3.6 awd has developed a propensity to roughly downshift when braking at higher speeds particularly on inclines. The VW shop cannot replicate the problem, but a tech is driving the car for a few days. What might be the cause of this?
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2003 7.3 Excursion, 130k, stock suspension with newer bushings, etc.
Vibration when braking at higher speeds - not felt as pulses through brake pedal or shimmy through steering wheel - rather, a "body" vibration. Stops as soon as the TC unlocks. Being a diesel I can't tap the brake to allow it to unlock like on the gasser 4R100's - its locked until it shifts down into 3rd. Turning off OD puts it into 3rd but locks TC (no way to "single out" TC). Only felt when braking in OD (though I haven't tried running up to highway speeds with OD off/trans in 3rd) - braking is completely smooth at all other times/gears/speeds and at all braking force (light, mod, heavy).
Front and rear pads are good with even wear and sufficient material, lugs evenly torqued, tires good/balanced, no sign of a stuck caliper or rotor warping, MM manual hubs unlocked. No driveshaft carrier on the Ex's, just a regular two joint shaft with recent Neapco Gold u-joints, no slip yoke play. Trans filter replaced 4k miles ago, 6 +/- qts DexIII/Merc exchanged when I did the filter, fluid smelt and looked fine. Transfer case fluid changed about 5k miles ago. Factory LSD rear diff not serviced recently but fluid suctioned from fill hole looks acceptable.
I'm afraid that something is going on with torque converter/shudder but I don't get any shudder or slip under acceleration or at any other time and gear shifts are smooth. I know that the 4R100's can be sketchy, especially with 130k, but want to get suggestions before digging into it. I've also got a very slow hydroboost leak/weep but the power steering fluid is properly filled. Steering is smooth and proper, brake pedal movement is normal so I assume there is no air in the lines.
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I have noticed recently that I seem to be getting less regen braking force than I used to. Particularly noticeable at higher speeds at over 45MPH or 70 KMPH. The regen seems to have very little effect now until I have slowed down. I seem to have to use much more brake than I remember recently. And by the way the battery in not nearly fully charged....Regen does come on but seems to have very little slowing power....
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My 2000 Forester recently started shaking while driving at highway speeds or while under engine load (hills, accelerating, etc). My first thought was that it was a problem with the alignment so I took it to my local tire shop. The car has 164K on it and has been without a Subaru specific mechanic since my last guy got fired a year ago, though I am trying to get an appointment with the only other Subaru mechanic in the area, outside of the dealership.
The tire shop found an issue with cupped tires (naturally they'd want to sell me tires) and told me that my passenger side rear CV joint was bad and they'd have to replace the axle. Since this sounded credible for the symptoms it was showing and they found me an axle, I told them to go ahead and replace it.
When I got it back the first time, I didn't see any great improvement in the shaking. I also noticed that they'd forgotten to put the bolt back into the bottom of my shock absorber. o_O When I brought it back to them, they fixed the missing bolt and agreed to keep it for a week to troubleshoot where else the shaking might be coming from. In the process, they replaced spark plugs and wires (which it probably needed anyway) and did an oil change, but the shaking is still there after all their tinkering. They suggested the problem may be in the timing and that I should have that checked out.
I don't think they're right about that. The vibration feels (to me) even more like a CV joint problem now than it did before. It shakes more violently and at slower speeds the longer it runs so by the time I get to work (40+ miles) it's almost constant. It stops shaking when you pop it into neutral and let it coast suggesting it's not timing or alignment - and making me think even more that it's something to do with the drive train.
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I have two simultaneous problems with my 2005 Elantra (automatic transmission). I don't know if the problems are related or not, or if they are alarming or not.
Background on the car: timing belt and water pump replaced in 2010; four tires new in 2010; oil changes every 5000 km.
The first is that my engine is making this 'whirring' sound when I approach 80km/hr. It's not high-pitched, but more of a droning noise. Having read around the forums, I see that Elantras commonly make funny engine noise, but this is fairly new to my car (145,000 kms) and definitely not there at all when idling or at low, city-street speeds.
Additionally, I have a weird vibrating noise coming from the front left of the car only when I am dead stopped and the brakes are fully depressed. It doesn't make this sound in park, and I don't hear it until the car has come to a complete stop; there is no odd noise while slowing down.
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I have been having troubles with my 2016 GTI clutch. There has always been a gritty/sandy feeling while disengaging/engaging from the first day.
On top of it, this weekend I noticed that there is a vibration/pulsation in the pedal at higher rpm (3000+), as this weekend my car was close to the break-in 1000 miles, so wanted to take it out for some spirited driving.
While shifting 2-3, 3-4 at 3000-4000 rpm, I can feel a rough pulsation in the pedal (no noise) when the pedal is around mid-way pressed.
I further experimented, to see if this happens in neutral, so parked the car with E-brakes, and then pressed gas pedal, and pumped the clutch. Have the same rough pulsation/vibration.
I took it to the dealer (right infront of my workplace), and they said this is normal, "you are just feeling the engine from your clutch"...
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We have a 2006 B9 Tribeca we purchased used in April. We have had no problems until September when the "puddle lamps" (small lamps under the doors) shorted out and made smoke go into the cabin of the car. Called Subaru dealer and found out there was a recall notice for this problem.Made an appt. and problem was fixed. Now...in the last two weeks though, there have been a dozen instances where the car will not start.It will crank over two/three times and quit. It never fires up and runs.I never know how many times I have to do this before it WILL start. Right now,it has not started since last night. Side note....there is now a strange noise coming from the heater fan box as well. Second side note.When I turn the key to start it,the "Info Center" display dims.
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I recently purchased a B9 Tribeca I had it completely checked out, brakes, engine everything. Everyone told me it was fine, this past Friday/Saturday was our first freeze and snow. I went to get into the car around noon, so it had warmed up to maybe 40 by then, and I put my foot on the brake pedal and it didn't feel right at all. Thinking I was imagining things I put it into reverse and took off the emergency brake, and realized rather quickly I had no brakes. quickly put it back into park and popped the hood. My brake fluid was full (right below the max line), I let the car sit there and pumped the brake pedal for like 2 minutes. After it made it all the way to the floor it eventually came back to where it should be and appeared to work just fine. I drove the car without any problems with the brakes for the rest of the day. My question is should I get the brakes checked out again, or is there something specific I should have them check so I don't have to worry about the brakes next time it freezes.
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I'm finding the nav. system on my o7 limited tribeca hard to use. First of all, I can't figure out how to turn it off. It seems to always require a destination, and the only thing I can do to avoid it binging and trying to redirect me is to turn the sound off. Any way to tell the computer "I don't need direction to this trip"? Also the only time I've tried to use it, thr route it took me on used only surface streets, even though the freeway and a tollroad were nearby and I had entered "allow tollroads".
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Since dec 31 my Nav screen goes black while driving, they only way i can bring it back is by shuting down and restarting the engine. But keeps doing it. Took it to deal they said they rebooted whole navi system but still doing it.
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I own a 2006 Subaru Tribeca with 125,000 miles. It has been well maintained and a great vehicle. On a recent long distance trip, after driving about 7 hours, going 70mph, the car started to buck and the accelerator stopped responding. It continued to lose speed as I pulled off the side of the highway. I turned the car off and restarted it and attempted to drive it but it wouldn't go over 10-15 mph. I didn't have any check engine lights. Called AAA and had the car towed 4 hours to our final destination. The mechanic has had the car for 4 days and can not find the cause of the event. I have a 22 hour drive back home in a month and I am extremely concerned. Did some research and have found others have had the problem but had codes come up. Research says it could be throttle pedal position sensor/ pedal assembly.
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What could cause this? Its coming from the rear end. It seems to happen if I am going over 45mph and apply the brakes. It feels like a warped rotor, but if braking from 40mph and below, it is smooth. Both rear wheel bearings have been replaced. Tires are new. There was a vibration while cruising between 40&50mph, which was "cured" by the new tires... While replacing the wheel bearing, I noticed some play in the right rear axle at the joint closest to the wheel.
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I have Subaru B9 Tribeca 2006. Week ago started the following problems - after starting up, engine is shaking (rough idle) for a few (20-30) seconds and then it's OK. Then I got Check Engine, Cruise and ABS lights on. Diagnose shows mistake in 1st cylinder. changed spark plug, air filter, checked all connections, cleaned injector and throttle. Lights went out and engine was working as new. but the second day car had rough idle again....
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2008 Subaru trebeca suv with only 62000 miles, when going up a slight incline in drive you feel quite a shudder like you were driving over small bumps on the road. This is my daughters vehicle so she phoned about 400 miles from were I live & told me what I said above. I told her it sounds to me like the torque converter is not unlocking. And if it is the converter not unlocking would that be a very expensive repair ?
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Ever since I took my 18" wheels off for the winter and put the stock VW 16's with snow tires I have on multiple occasions almost rear ended the car in front of me when I experienced what seemed like a loss of brake pressure. The brake pedal did not feel spongy or anything but often in this situation the abs brakes seem to kick in for no reason. I feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal which I can only assume is an activation of abs. I'm wondering if this slight pulsation (1 second duration ) is causing my brakes to be less effective. The pavement has been completely dry and I was not traveling fast enough, nor pressing the brakes hard enough to cause the tires to lock and trip the abs.
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2007 Sonata 3.3. Crunching, clunking noise at low speeds, braking or accelerating away from stop lights. Noise disappears at speeds over 25-30 mph. Noise can be replicated by rocking car forward and backward while in park, with engine turned off. Rocking side to side does not reproduce noise. Bouncing car suspension at all four corners does not reproduce noise. Hood open, rocking forward and backwards, noise seems to be coming from behind engine, and with hand on engine motion can be felt. I'm thinking engine mount, but how can I get a good look at it to check?
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I've saw several complaints about 2008 Honda Accord Popping at low braking speeds and start from stop only in hot weather. I've never saw a solution.
This is the other persons complaint: My Honda has a pop or clunk when braking at low speeds( below 5mph) just before coming to a stop. It will pop as I start forward again (below 5mph). It only occurs when the outside temperature is above 90-95 degrees and after driving for 10-15 minutes.
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On the expressway, I was driving my 2013 Subaru Impreza about 50 mph and had occasion to make a sudden stop. There were no crashes, and traffic started up again immediately - except for me! There I was, in the left lane, and when I depressed the gas pedal the car stayed put. I could hear the engine rev, but the wheels didn't turn. I had to turn the car off and start it again before I could move forward. What could be going on?
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2008 F250 Crew Cab 5.4, 79K miles, had new brake pads installed at 40K miles. Recently, I noticed front end shudder and some pedal pulsation while braking. It started kind of sudden. My first thought was a warped rotor.
When I took things apart, I found passenger side front rotor was cracked and the caliper pistons were rusted and falling apart, the old pads were only worn about half way. My thoughts on a bad rotor were confirmed, and then some.
I replaced the broken caliper, both front rotors, installed new pads on all four wheels, and bled the brakes. To my surprise, the brake shuddering did not go away. I'm stumped.
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I have a 2006 Subaru Forester with 115K miles. It's been well-maintained and well-loved.
For the past few months, the brakes have been inconsistently making a dragging/grinding noise when coming to a stop at low speeds (<5mph). It sounds to be coming from the front half of the car - I can feel it vibrating a little near the driver side. We've taken the car in to be looked at three times - each time, the mechanics think they've heard the noise and report there is absolutely nothing wrong with the brake pads or rotors. Twice they reported a shim was out of alignment. After the last shim adjustment, the noise got a little better - instead of grinding, it's more of a dragging sound now. Because the noise is inconsistent, I haven't been able to crack the formula of the conditions that produce it, other than that it only happens as I'm coming to a stop at very low speeds.
Is there something besides the brakes we should be having inspected? Does this sound safe to drive?
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