Subaru - B9-tribeca :: 2006 - Car Rough Idle / Engine Shaking For Few Seconds
Apr 15, 2014
I have Subaru B9 Tribeca 2006. Week ago started the following problems - after starting up, engine is shaking (rough idle) for a few (20-30) seconds and then it's OK. Then I got Check Engine, Cruise and ABS lights on. Diagnose shows mistake in 1st cylinder. changed spark plug, air filter, checked all connections, cleaned injector and throttle. Lights went out and engine was working as new. but the second day car had rough idle again....
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We have a 2006 B9 Tribeca we purchased used in April. We have had no problems until September when the "puddle lamps" (small lamps under the doors) shorted out and made smoke go into the cabin of the car. Called Subaru dealer and found out there was a recall notice for this problem.Made an appt. and problem was fixed. Now...in the last two weeks though, there have been a dozen instances where the car will not start.It will crank over two/three times and quit. It never fires up and runs.I never know how many times I have to do this before it WILL start. Right now,it has not started since last night. Side note....there is now a strange noise coming from the heater fan box as well. Second side note.When I turn the key to start it,the "Info Center" display dims.
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I recently purchased a B9 Tribeca I had it completely checked out, brakes, engine everything. Everyone told me it was fine, this past Friday/Saturday was our first freeze and snow. I went to get into the car around noon, so it had warmed up to maybe 40 by then, and I put my foot on the brake pedal and it didn't feel right at all. Thinking I was imagining things I put it into reverse and took off the emergency brake, and realized rather quickly I had no brakes. quickly put it back into park and popped the hood. My brake fluid was full (right below the max line), I let the car sit there and pumped the brake pedal for like 2 minutes. After it made it all the way to the floor it eventually came back to where it should be and appeared to work just fine. I drove the car without any problems with the brakes for the rest of the day. My question is should I get the brakes checked out again, or is there something specific I should have them check so I don't have to worry about the brakes next time it freezes.
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I own a 2006 Subaru Tribeca with 125,000 miles. It has been well maintained and a great vehicle. On a recent long distance trip, after driving about 7 hours, going 70mph, the car started to buck and the accelerator stopped responding. It continued to lose speed as I pulled off the side of the highway. I turned the car off and restarted it and attempted to drive it but it wouldn't go over 10-15 mph. I didn't have any check engine lights. Called AAA and had the car towed 4 hours to our final destination. The mechanic has had the car for 4 days and can not find the cause of the event. I have a 22 hour drive back home in a month and I am extremely concerned. Did some research and have found others have had the problem but had codes come up. Research says it could be throttle pedal position sensor/ pedal assembly.
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Ever since I've had the car, I've noticed after the gas engine kicks on, it runs a little rough for maybe 10-15 seconds. Only when it's sat for a while, hours or overnight. Replacing the plugs didn't work. Now, its not bad, not really a problem, but I'm wondering if the injectors might need cleaning.
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I have problem with my 2006 Prius , idle shaking and when the engine stops its really rough.
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I've got a 2006 B9 with about 64,000 miles. Just a bit ago my check engine and ABS light came on, along with my cruise light flashing.
After researching a little bit on the forums and couldn't find an answer, I took it into the dealer, to which I was told that there was a bad oil pressure sensor for the right-hand side of the motor. I had them replace it out, and less than 20 miles down the road, the same lights appeared on my instrument cluster, and I took it back to the dealer. They informed me that there was now a bad sensor on the left hand side that would be another $380. I scheduled an appointment for later next week, and had them reset the error.
On the same day, about 2 hours later the lights reappeared on my dash, and I took the car over to a local parts store, where I used their scanner and the car now spit the following errors:
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 1 timing over advan.
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 2 timing over advan
Cam/crankshaft pos. correlation sensor A - Bank 2
Cam/crankshaft pos. Correlation sensor A - Bank 1
Camshaft position actuator A bank 1 timing over - advan
Camshaft position adctuator A bank 2 timing over -advan
Cam/crankshaft pos correlation sensor A - bank 1
I reset the codes, and waited another day for the lights to reappear on the dash. Again, I rescanned the errors, and found the same top 5 codes that I listed above.
Is there something more major going on here with the computer?
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Ive been having a problem where the engine cranks and idles, sometimes rough, then I try to accelerate and the car shakes and accelerates very slowly with shaking. I replaced plugs coil and leads and fuel filter with no effect but put on a new egr valve and that fixed the problem for 2 months. The same thing happened again and I cleaned the evr solenoid and that fixed the problem for 1 month. Then the same thing happened while I was out and while limping home it fixed itself. Now a month later, the same thing happened, but when I got home and shut it off, the engine won't idle properly (very rough) for 6-9 seconds then dies. I don't know what to check at this point. Thinking it may be vacuum related or possibly a fuel injector or magic gremlins at this point.
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1997 Subaru SVX (Alcyone) LSi, 3.3L H6 engine.
My SVX was driven from Denver to Las Vegas, NV and it developed an odd habit where the RPMs would start to oscillate while on cruise control. I had to disengage the cruise control to get the oscillations to stop. Three days later I was driving the SVX to work and the RPMs started oscillating at idle and the car started running rough and it died.
These things have all been replaced with OEM grade parts: Spark plugs, electric fuel pump & strainer & fuel filter, Mass Air Flow sensor, new air filter and fuses.
The car starts up fine but after a few seconds the RPMs begin to oscillate. Then the car tries to recover, the idle becomes rough, and the the RPMs drop very low and the engine shuts off.
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesnt stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. Thats when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterwards.
I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as O2 censor. I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gapping. Thought I had fixed the problem. Vehicle ran perfect. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it.
Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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2004 F150 5.4 3v. I bought the truck with 102k on it, it now has 124k. In the morning, when the outside temp is between 30-50, the engine starts and runs fine. When I get to the first red light ( about 1 mile away) within seconds of the engine at idle, engine starts to run rough and CEL. Every time the code is p0351. If I let it sit in the driveway to full warm up... no problem. If I start the truck, shut it off and restart...no problem. It only happens at the cooler temps. I have changed plugs, used motorcraft, nickel antiseize, torqued, etc. Ford changed the coil, I have changed the coil, cleaned MAF. As soon as I cross the intersection, light stays on, rough running clears up, and runs like a champ for the rest of the day.
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2007 Accent Hatchback. Put gas in it from an Exxon we have bought from before with no problems. My kids car, running on vapors, put 1/2 tank of gas in. Pulled out of gas station and car starts running really rough, shaking. Still running though. I have gathered some knowledge from other threads, like timing belt needs to be changed (65000 on car). I replaced the plugs as an initial attempt at correcting the problem. Runs better, not great. Saw a thread with changing to better gas, will try that.
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I'm finding the nav. system on my o7 limited tribeca hard to use. First of all, I can't figure out how to turn it off. It seems to always require a destination, and the only thing I can do to avoid it binging and trying to redirect me is to turn the sound off. Any way to tell the computer "I don't need direction to this trip"? Also the only time I've tried to use it, thr route it took me on used only surface streets, even though the freeway and a tollroad were nearby and I had entered "allow tollroads".
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I have a 1999 F250 Super Duty 5.4L, 118,000miles...engine seems to idle somewhat rough but tach doesn't seem to move off 1000rpm & when giving slight acceleration seems to act like its missing, shaking . But under acceleration moderate or high purrs like a kitten! Always starts good , few cranks. Any hints on the what issue might be?
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Since dec 31 my Nav screen goes black while driving, they only way i can bring it back is by shuting down and restarting the engine. But keeps doing it. Took it to deal they said they rebooted whole navi system but still doing it.
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I change my own pads as a good lifetime warranty with free replacement from Autozone is great!
But with the Tribeca... I changed the front rotors just like all my other cars over the years.. and now there is pretty severe pulsation when trying to brake... I've checked the rotors and pad replacement twice now and all looks perfect.
I searched this pulsation issue and saw on a Jaquar site that you can ruin the ABS on some cars when you don't drain excess fluid as you push the piston back to install then new thicker pads..
Is this an issue for B9? I don't see it anywhere... I'm ready to bring it in the shop.. the pulsation ONLY happens when braking and gets more severe when stopping from progressively higher speeds...
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2008 Subaru trebeca suv with only 62000 miles, when going up a slight incline in drive you feel quite a shudder like you were driving over small bumps on the road. This is my daughters vehicle so she phoned about 400 miles from were I live & told me what I said above. I told her it sounds to me like the torque converter is not unlocking. And if it is the converter not unlocking would that be a very expensive repair ?
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Have a 2009 Elantra 4 door, manual. It is at 52000 kilometers and recently in the spring changed the oil, I run Full synthetic.
Lately its been really hot and the following problem occurs, no engine light or anything. But if I start the car cold it idles no problem, nice an smooth, If I go out for a 30min drive, come back and let it idle its rough. Not crazy rough but its rougher than it should be. I have no power issues, it pulls well, never stalls. If I shut it down and wait a few hours, engine still hot, but not super hot, start her up and runs well, no rough idle.
Go out for a 15-20 min drive and park it, idles rough. I checked the usual, wires, plugs, pvc valve seems good. Engine temp is normal also. I did some searches on the site but come up mostly with cold idle issues, not great when cold not so when hot.
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I have a 2006 azera limited with about 63k miles on it and I noticed in the owners manual that at 60k I should have the valve clearance checked and adjusted if theres vibration or rough idle. I currently have a rough idle and more vibration from the engine.
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I have been searching and it seems I am not the only one who has a rough idle with the I4. It is very rough even without the A/C on. I can see the dash shaking, I can feel it in the steering wheel, brake pedal, seat, and arm rest.
The dealership cleaned my throttle body and MAP sensor (They forgot to put one of the screws back in the MAP). This is the third time they have cleaned them. When they returned it to me I told them to keep it until it is fixed. So they took it back in and decided that it might be the motor mounts so they went ahead and replaced them aside from the dogbone or whatever it's called.
When they returned the vehicle it was still having the same issue, they told me that its just the nature of the beast and to live with it. Well my neighbor has the exact same car, and yes it does have a SLIGHT vibration in gear but nothing like mine. I can't stand this car I really wish I would have bought something else.
I currently have 70,000 miles and for the last three oil changes I have been running Full Synthetic in hopes it would work but it has made no difference.
Just a note I have had multiple problems with this particular dealer lying to me. They even ripped up my passenger seat and would not fix it they said it was pre existing. I am over the seat I don't care anymore but I am tired of the rough idle. I plan on taking into another dealer but I am hesitant because they told me if there is no real problem I will have to pay in full for the diagnostic.
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Just got my timing belt replaced and a tune up on my 2005 subaru impreza wagon (80k miles). Car runs great, except that the idle now pulsates from 1000 to 2000 and back every 5 seconds when the blower is on. usual idle is smooth 750 rpm steady with blower off. Confirmed that it is not AC compressor by disconnecting electrically and mechanically (belt). The mechanics are stumped. What the heck happened? This was not an issue before the work.
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