I'm thinking about getting the 2014 Subaru Impreza with the CVT transmission, w/o paddle shifters, and found that there is a manual mode in the CVT. How does that work if there aren't any paddle shifters or actual gears to shift to? (I don't know a lot about cars).
View 1 RepliesI have a metallic grey 2012 SE V6 Camry. While the car is in drive mode, not S mode, I accidentally pressed the paddle shifters while turning and the car went into manual mode. The blue lit display on the dash said D for drive, but it had the gear numbers next to it and I could down or upshift at will. In order to get out of manual mode I have to stop the car, put it in S mode and then back in drive, bc I heard u weren't supposed to shift bet drive and sport mode while the car is in motion. Is this normal?, How to take the car out of manual mode without putting it in S mode then back to drive?
View 4 RepliesMy 2009 Impreza 2.5i manual transmission makes a clunking binding when I turn. What the issue is it goes away and comes back.
View 1 RepliesI have a legacy. Notice some slippage between 2nd and 3rd and 3rd and 4th. Also noticing an extreme burning smell when vehicle first gets started (for about 15 min) it's gagging it's so strong and pours in through defrost but can be smelled standing outside car also. Finally I parked in friends garage and notice some dark weird colored fluid on ground when I backed out, I dont know if it's oil or transmission fluid.
View 1 RepliesI'm having a problem with my 2009 Subaru Forester.
When I start the car from "cold" (i.e., it hasn't run in several hours, regardless of the actual temperature), the automatic transmission cannot engage drive for several minutes. I can shift the car, and reverse functions normally. When shifting, I can feel the car engage reverse, and feel it shift into neutral, but when I shift from neutral to drive, I can't feel it engage. I can rev the engine, and it will just act as if it is still in neutral. I also cannot use sport mode to manually get the car into gear. After a few minutes (3-4), the car will engage drive. However, at least initially, it still seems to be pretty rough, with a few times where it will rev as if it's half in neutral, and then jump a little. Once it does get going, it settles down and is fine.
I took it to the dealer, but wasn't able to leave it over-night, so they couldn't get the problem to re-engage. They inspected the car, thought that the shift cable was a little stiff, so they took it off, lubed it, and put it back (they recommended replacement, but didn't have the part in stock). The next morning, the problem repeated itself, so it certainly appears that the cable is not the issue. The dealer checked the transmission fluid and said that was all fine.
I have a 2013 Forester with 39k miles, and last week I was 200 miles from home, put it in Drive and it didn't engage. After car was left running for a few minutes, and shifting between P, R, N, & D, it finally engaged. I was able to get it home and took to dealer the next day. They looked at the car, checked the computer logs, and told me nothing was wrong. Since then, it's happened 3 more times, and now I'm noticing it's not shifting smoothly from 1st to 2nd gear (engine will rev and then it'll slip into gear).
To make matters worse, my wife couldn't get it out of Park two days ago. She had to use the shift lock release button, and could only start it when it was in Neutral. She then couldn't get it to back into Park and had to park it on a level surface with parking brake engaged. Heading back to dealer now, but would love to hear others' input.
My son has a 1987 Chrysler 5th Ave. The transmission (auto) does not want to shift in reverse. It does go in neutral and forward. And it drives well forward. How to fix this?
View 1 RepliesPlanning on buying an Impreza soon. Was at first thinking about the manual, but then saw that the mpg for stick was 2 miles less than that of CVT. Is the sacrifice in mpg worth the manual transmission?
View 5 Repliesmy 2000 Subaru Outback Manual Transmission is stuck in neutral. I thought it might be the clutch so I pulled it out of the car and checked the clutch linkage etc. With the transmission fully removed from the car the shift lever does not move at all. My question is, if the transmission is fully removed from the engine should the shift lever function?
View 6 RepliesI've seen more than a few Subaru WRXs puff a little wisp of bluish smoke from their big exhaust during a manual shift and was wondering what this means. Throttle, clutch, puff throttle. I was following a guy yesterday on a back road and saw it several times, and that's not the first one I've noticed.
View 3 RepliesWhy my vue manual tranny only goes in first third and fifth . Can't get it in second fourth or reverse . Bought it like that .
View 1 Replies1997 Saturn SL ... It's like 3rd gear is where 1st used to be and 4th is where 2 used to be. 5th and reverse work but are more towards the center. It's as if the stick shifted over to the left.
Is it possible for the shift stick and it's linkage to become displaced? The temp did drop today about 40 degrees and it snowed but the car stays in the garage and was only parked at my work for a couple hours after a 2 mile uneventful drive.
No warning lights that I can see but the check engine lite has never worked. The engine is a 96 rebuild but the transmission should be a 97 like the rest of the car.
Great mileage and otherwise drives fine.
2007 V6 Mustang Manual Transmission. I recently got stuck in my drive way due to a poor plowing job by the plow guy. I had to turn the traction control off and aggressively shift transmission between reverse and 1st to rock the car and spin the tires. I eventually got unstuck but now the transmission doesn't feel right.
I thought it was the clutch but the issue seems to occur only shifting from 1st to 2nd. The higher gears all seem relatively fine. There is just a catch between 1st and 2nd now that sometimes causes me to not be able to shift into second gear without forcing the shifter down roughly.
Is it possible that I just threw something out of alignment inside the transmission itself? It doesn't make the car undriveable but i get ticked every time i drive it knowing that it was fine before the poor plowing job.
Should I even bother having it looked at? I know transmission repairs are expensive.
95 Ford Escort 1.9L, 330,000 miles. Never changed the clutch and i bought it with 80k on it. With that said the clutch never slipped and a lot of this is highway mileage so i never saw a reason to change the clutch just because.
Last week i pulled into the driveway i depressed the clutch pedal as i normally do and as i slowed, the car bucked like it was still in gear and didn't recognize the clutch was depressed. When it started bucking i tried to pull the gear shifter to neutral but it wouldn't move, the car finally died in it's parking spot. I quickly popped the hood and had my son press the clutch in and out and all components seemed to be moving fine, i was mainly looking at the slave cylinder assuming since it's a hydraulic clutch if it was a hydraulic issue that wouldn't move if i didn't have hydraulic pressure.
No obvious leaks were noted, i looked at the master cylinder and it seemed a little low but not empty maybe just above min. I filled it to max and still no change. So i assumed it was the clutch finally disintegrated and locked up. Yesterday i got in the car to attempt to move it to the garage to work on it. It started up fine, shifted through all gears with no issue's, drove it around for about 15minutes shifting a lot and pressing the clutch randomly and it worked fine.
I brought it back home and tried to kill it a few more times before i got it to the garage, it finally locked again but it was in neutral and i couldn't get into any gear. Turned the car off and then restarted and it shifted into gear, i pulled it into the garage and stopped with no other issue's.
Checked closer for leaks, between master and slave and couldn't find any. Pulled speedo cable and checked trans fluid, its brownish red (more brownish) and thin but didn't really smell burnt and it is at the correct level. Linkage has some slop in it but i don't see it binding anywhere, i layed under the car and was able to move linkage in/out of gear with my hand. It's easy enough to say the clutch is well over due for changing but since there were no signs of a failing clutch when i drove it i think i need to look elsewhere.
Could it be worn fluid? Could it be debris in the line? Or could it be that the fork just isn't engaging or disengaging properly due to wear?
My 1997 Saturn SL2 with 5 speed manual transmission won't shift into first or second gear. When I shift into the location where first would be the car is in third gear. It shifts into 4th, 5th and reverse just fine, though the shifter is in the wrong position for those gears. I can wiggle the shifter in neutral and get it to move into the position where 5th and reverse are normally found, but it is stiff and makes a clunking noise when I move the shifter over to the far right side.
I have removed the center console and the bushing appears to be intact. Both cables are in their proper positions inside the vehicle and at the engine. One of the cables (the top one in the engine) has some wear and tear on the boot, but does not appear to be binding. Other than the stiffness and the clunking noise, the shifter seems to be working fine too.
97 Saturn SL with a 5 speed manual transmission only has 1st and reverse. Can usually not even put the clutch in and it runs in 1st gear without stalling like a 1 gear automatic transmission. Weird
The Shifter moves normally but there is no 2 thru 5. Can put it in reverse. Drove it 3 miles to my home.
Anyway this is clutch related or some relatively cheap adjustment? The car is not worth the price of a new Xmission. Other alternative like replacing with an automatic xmission?
I am loosing gear oil through an odd place . There appears to have been a rubber boot or cover over this area that got cooked by a hot exhaust (whole other story there). This is left (passenger side) just above where the axle enters the gearbox. Not sure what this is and how I can resolve the issue. I have temporarily used silicone to stop the flow and have topped off the gear oil, but am still leaking a little. I have already done some damage to the bearings I fear, as the tranny really whines when I get up into 4th and 5th.
View 4 RepliesJust curious. is it possible to convert my auto camry to manual transmission? also, how much would it be? where can i go?
View 5 RepliesHaving a problem with water being in the manual transmission oil? I ended up having to drain the oil because 3rd gear started grinding again and it ended up being water in there again. I drained it into a milk jug with the top cut off and let it separate and there was a little over an inch of water in it at the bottom.
Is there possibly a bad deal or something because that seems like way more than a little bit of condensation especially since the oil was changed not too long ago. Also it does not leak anything so I'm not sure where it would be coming from.
What RPMs do you see in 6th gear, say at 60mph or 80mph? Consumer Reports claims the RPM at 60mph is 3020!
So I went to vw.com to look at the gear ratios for a reality check. The site lists two final gear ratios for the manual. "Final I" is 3.94 and "Final II" is 3.09. When do you get one versus the other? With a final gear ration of 3.09, I get roughly 2400RPM at 60mph. But with a ratio of 3.94, I indeed get about 3000RPM at 60mph or 4100RPM at 80mph!!! That's absolutely insane.
I have a 2011 Hybrid Touareg. I'm just curious if other's are having a similar issue as mine with the V6 or TDI version.
When in drive mode and I shift the shifter to the right for manual down and up shifts, at times, I notice it's not as responsive. I try downshifting, and it won't downshift, it takes maybe 3-4 tries at times. Sometimes it works fine, other times it doesn't respond which can be frustrating. This goes the same with up shifting.