My ECS light comes on after driving about 15 miles. I checked computer to see what code it was sending. It was a 73. I looked up the code. It is the ignition pulse system. What is this and how can I fix it.
View 1 RepliesMr Squeaky is a 2003 Subaru Legacy
Here are the signs and symptoms that my car wants to die. The car makes sound like grinding metal after I drive it for a good 10-15 miles. It starts up when I turn to the right. It does not seem to matter how slight the turn to the right is but it seems to not start up until I head in that direction a little bit. Once it gets going, it does not stop, and squeals incessantly. I can make it stop by putting my foot on the brakes but the noise almost always starts right back up as soon as I take my foot off the brake. Speed of travel seems to have no effect on this noise. If I park my car for 5 min and then drive away, again the noise normally goes away. My heat gauge never goes into the oh crap zone, and my mechanics swear my brakes are good.
2011 Subaru outback with 49000 miles. Regular oil changes every 5000 miles with Subaru filters. After the last oil change at 45000 miles the engine started shuddering when reversing from garage at @48300 miles. Once warmed up drives okay. Within a week it threw up code 0028 and found engine oil jelled up. Drained, flushed and replaced oil. I replaced the oil pressure switch and solenoid just in case. Code came back with less than 1000 miles after oil change. Can't understand the reason for jelling. Have been using Castrol GTX 5-30 all the time with Subaru OEM filters.
View 5 RepliesMy 2000 Hyundai Accent Hatchback (manual) is tripping the code P0422 (Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)). If i clear the code it will pop back up after about 40-60 miles of driving. I hooked my OBDII sensor to it and look at the voltage output from the two O2 sensors and the front one oscillates between .2 to .7V and the downstream one does as well switching about at the rate. From my understanding the downstream O2 sensor should stay fairly steady or at least switch much slower than the upstream one. I get pretty good gas mileage, typ. ~30mpg. Luckily my state does not have emission testing. Is it actually the catalytic converter, the downstream O2 sensor or something else?
View 10 RepliesSo I bought LOLM3's old Borla a while back & everything's been great except CEL P0137 & the VSC light keeps popping up on me every 30-40 miles. I have a 12' with 20k miles on the odo.
P0137: O2 SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW VOLTAGE (BANK 1 SENSOR 2)
It has secondary cats welded on along with these type of O2 defoulers so the O2 sensors can reach the re-located bungs (except they're welded, not screwed on):
I've swapped sensor 1's with bank 2's sensor & even went ahead & replaced it with a brand new one, same code keeps popping up . Resetting the light is getting old & inspection time is coming up!
There are no audible exhaust leaks as far as I can tell, would a minor leak throw the CEL?Should I cut out the secondary cats & replace with straight piping like how the exhaust was originally made?
I just got this 2001 Escape with 3.0. After driving just a few miles the low coolant light will come on. It is off when starting again and same pattern. Has plenty of coolant and is over the high mark but dont think that would be sensed. Need to remove mounting bolts to move jug enough to unplug and replug the harness connector and see if that cures the problem.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2008 Sonata Diesel version, and I am getting the engine management light on. All the times i have scanned it, it says - Insufficient air flow to EGR Valve. This gets automatically reset in a day. Now the weird thing - This is happening only if I drive in and around Heathrow airport I have done 100s of miles elsewhere and this problem never occurs. But if I just drive 20 miles to Heathrow, my engine management light always comes on which resets in a day.
I am really confused on what is happening here.
So my alternator went bad last week so I replaced it. Tested it yesterday and it was charging fine and drove it to work. I got the esp light on after driving 10 miles everytime I start it. So I go start it and it turns over slow but starts. Before I got to a friends house I was getting on it from a stop pretty hard and noticed the ac stopped blowing cold air. I go to leave a few hours later and it barely turns over and died shortly after moving. Took a while to jump it and the battery light blinked the whole way home. THEN, I go inside and hear something about 5 minutes later and my stereo is on! Also ABS light is on. Could a dead battery do all this?
View 1 RepliesChanged alternator yesterday, batteries 2 weeks ago, was having trouble with alternator, now it takes 2 to 3 minutes of running to start charging normal but after driving 3 to 5 miles battery light comes on, hooked up volt meter and shows charge of 14.0 to 14. 4 volts and battery light is on, why ?
View 3 RepliesMy 2000 Ford Explorer O/D off light starts flashing after driving it after 3-8 miles from starting out. After shutting it off, it resets itself. It seems to stick between 2nd and 3rd (automatic trans) because I get a surge on my RPMs. I took it to two places, spent $200.00 and the problem remains. The tranny shop actually changed a "range sensor" and thought it was fixed. Nope - O/D off started flashing before I even got back home. I've been looking on the internet and it seems that alot of explorer owners have been having the same types of problems. The shops I have talked to have no idea other than rebuild my transmission. It only has 46,000 miles on it! It seems to me that the overdrive is not kicking in when needed and the light comes on.
View 14 RepliesWith a 100 k on the odometer, the wife reports that the car started shaking, trans was slipping and check engine light came on after driving about two miles. She drives it at low speed back to the house. Investigation under the hood shows trans fluid in the radiator and coming out of the overflow tank. Engine starts right up and we have not had any other driveline problems since owning the car in 2005.
View 1 RepliesI pulled out of my driveway yesterday (2014 Subaru Legacy 2.5 H4 engine, CVT) and about a half mile from the house, I noticed the brake light blinking. Along with it, the traction control icon was on steady, the cruise control icon was blinking (CC off) and the check engine light on steady. I turned around and went home. According to the owners manual, the blinking brake light meant a defect in the electronic parking brake. The car may not be safe to drive.
I pulled the code P1449 which according to the code reader means "air filter clog". The car has 33k on it and I changed the filter at 30k. I pulled the snorkel and checked it and it was clear.
Since it is under warranty, I called the dealer to schedule the repair. I asked the service advisor if it was safe to drive and she told me that the blinking brake light was only to get my attention that the check engine light was on. BTW, the parking brake seems to be working just fine, setting and releasing normally.
I had an issue with my 2011 6.7 this weekend and I'm clueless after doing the google search for info. My truck started overheating after driving it about 10 miles in tow with a light load (20 foot boat). So my first panic reaction is to stop and check the fluids which all check out as good on the levels if I am checking them correctly.
So it cools off and we go for another spin and now that I am paying more attention I notice abnormally high RPMs before it shifts into all gears and that the heat seems to be a by product of this. there is no abnormal vibrations of any type but it sounds like someone learning to drive a standard for the first time.
I does it almost every time. So I tried the manual shift option and it had no problem and no overheat. If it reaches the 6th gear without the overheat alert posting it runs fine but getting there seems to be an issue.
In the back of my mind I do remember hearing this high RPM before but I have a short drive to work and back so I didn't think much about it as I have definitely keyed in on it now. I have only had the truck a year and I do not know when the service was done last on the Transmission.
At a bit over 43K miles the check engine light came on with a blinking cruise light. Dealer has confirmed that both secondary injection pumps have failed for reasons unknown. I think this is part of the pollution control system.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2011 Legacy Sedan with 40K miles. Three weeks ago, I drove the car 25 miles in 90+degree heat on the highway. I parked at a store, did not use the electronic parking brake and when I returned to the car 5 minutes later and started it, the dashboard BRAKE light was flashing. The brake was not engaged. I tried to engage and release it, but it would not engage, when I pushed the button the car 'chirped'. I drove the car home and garaged it. The next morning (after a cooler evening) the light no longer flashed. At that time I was able to engage and release the electronic parking brake and it worked as designed.
A similar sequence has occurred on four different occasions. When I start a cool car, no light. When I start the car after it's been run for a while, I'm getting the flashing light.
I've checked the brake fluid and it's fine. I've checked the OBD and it shows no codes.
I have a 1986 Chevrolet El Camino with a small V-8 engine. The vehicle has 150,000 miles on it. It starts and runs fine. It does not use oil. My problem is the oil pressure. After the car runs for a short time, the oil pressure starts dropping. It will drop all the way to 0 if I let it. I have had the sending unit replaced and it did not work.
I have had two mechanics look at it and they have not been able to solve the problem. One checked it with a mechanical gauge and confirmed the low pressure. He suggested a higher weight oil and an additive. The other mechanic's solution was to raise the idle speed. I have had this vehicle since it was new and always kept the oil changed and all other maintenance done. I would like to keep the vehicle and complete any repairs necessary.
My question: Is the engine repairable economically or does the engine need to be replaced and what is causing this problem.
At 56,000+ miles on my 2006 Forester, I was horribly shocked to learn while having 60,000 maintenance done that my head gasket was leaking. inclusive of timing belt replacement required. I have read some discussions in this vein, but none regarding a car with this few miles on it. It does not seem right. I have had other issues with this car, my 2nd forester. I do not know what I should do.
View 12 RepliesMy dads f150 shuts off intermittently while driving it. He has to pull over and wait about 5 minutes until it restarts again. We have tried replacing the fuel filter, still shuts off! Some one pointed out the coil!? I am thinking that it might be the switch. It might be bad, shorting out and shutting down the truck?
View 6 RepliesPlanning on buying an Impreza soon. Was at first thinking about the manual, but then saw that the mpg for stick was 2 miles less than that of CVT. Is the sacrifice in mpg worth the manual transmission?
View 5 RepliesMy 2015 impreza w/under 100 miles would not start. It turned over but the engine would not engage. The dealership told me the electronics in the car drains the battery and I had to start my car every day. Sounds like garbage to me. I did not drive it for one day and it would not start and it is summer time. What's going to happen in the winter? I have a 1998 Honda with 218K miles that is very reliable but it is not AWD. I cannot believe Subaru would have such fantastic ratings on safety and all weather AWD and be cheap on this problem if it is one. I need a reliable car and that is why I bought a Subaru to get around in all weather conditions and be safe. What good is it if the car won't start? Reminds me of a Nissan I had years ago that would break down frequently when I drove it. I got rid of it at 34K and 3 fuel pumps later.
View 13 RepliesI have a 1986 Honda Accord Hatchback Lxi, 180,000 miles, automatic, one owner, always excellent care (very recently new spark plugs, new air filter, new oil and filter, and several years ago new Pirelli tires). Lately, while driving, it intermittently loses power, like it's going to stall, but never does. I accelerate to recover. Years ago I used to hear about vapor lock. Last week I took it to a Honda dealer. They had no diagnostic machines for "old" cars and had no clue what was causing this. Most of the time, the car drives beautifully, but it's scary thinking it's going to quit and I'll be stranded on the side of the road.
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