Steering - Suspension - Nissan - Noises :: 2002 Pathfinder 4x4 SE - Front End Clunk?
Oct 3, 2014
I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4 SE, and I have a strange noise emanating from the front suspension. It's essentially a creaking sound whenever going over speedbumps etc, that lasts only when crossing the bump in question. There is also a distinct ratcheting/popping sound when I more with the wheel at full lock. I've already replaced the front sway bar bushing, recently replaced the struts and springs, lower control arms, and have not noticed any shaking in the tie rods when I try to move them.
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I have an '04 TRD Doublecab 4x4. I first started hearing a "clunk" upon acceleration, but only occasionally. It started getting worse and would happen pretty much every time I accelerate (although it never got louder, just more frequent). It usually only happens after a full stop (or near stop like in stop an go traffic), and I'd hear it pretty much right when I step on the gas. It seems like it has something to do with the A arms moving forward and back. When you accel, the rear wheels push the vehicle, essentially "sucking" the front wheels back slightly. When in 4wd, the noise is still there. It is quite obvious it's coming from the front right corner. I'm usually pretty handy with a wrench, so I decided to swap the upper A-arm bushings and upper ball joint (ball joint was leaking grease). Noise is still there. I ran out of time/motivation, so I took it to the Toyota dealer.
Here's what they did: -replaced front right coil-over, said it was "loose". That didn't work, so they put the old one back on. -tightened bumper etc..., didn't work. -then they removed the REAR drive-line and put it in 4x4 and drove it around. They say that "fixed" the problem since the noise went away. They were pretty adamant it was the drive line, but I didn't believe them since the noise is OBVIOUSLY coming from the front right. It just seems odd that it'd be the drive line. I took it home and tried what they said, I took the drive line off and drove it around in 4wd. They weren't lying, the noise went away. But since a good friend has an identical truck (but an '03) I switched our drive lines and the noise came back (HA! I was right!!). Driving in "front wheel drive" (no drive line) makes the front wheels "pull" the truck forward, vs in rear wheel drive, the rear wheels "push" the truck, and thus the front wheels will move backward slightly because of wheel/bearing friction.
I think it has something to do with when the front wheel is forced "backwards" but as far as I cal tell, all the suspension components are intact and show no signs of looseness. I can now occasionally hear the noise when under slight accel going over studder bumps like street reflectors or something (but only rarely, it's almost impossible to duplicate that on command. Makes me think a suspension piece is loose (shock/spring or loose bushing), but I NEVER hear the noise under braking, and rarely hear it on those studder bumps (and only for a split second). If it were a loose bushing, wouldn't I hear the clunk under accel AND decel (A arm moving back and forth)??? So I'm basically stumped (so was the dealer!). Ball joints appear fine, wheel bearing has no slop (that I can tell), and it has brand new upper urithane bushings and a new upper ball joint. I KNOW it's not the shock/spring, b/c I even swapped the left/right, and the noise is still there (and didn't move to the other side).
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder and the Car Key FOB did a strange thing last week. Car is locked, keys are INSIDE the house and [TaTa] on its own, the FOB started to "beep" like when you click it to lock the car, made that kind of sound. Funny thing and wonder if this could be a coincidence, down the street, 8th of a mile away [or less] a house was being built. Could someone have had [maybe] an alarm system or two-way Nextel phone or SOMETHING [???] that could set it off? What can be done about it BESIDES enclosing the FOB in aluminum foil? We did that. Strangely, the beeping has stopped, which gives me the idea that it MAY have been what I suggested in the first place . . . something "signaling" it from wherever to go off!
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder and I love it. I bought it in 2006 and it has 156,000 miles on it. I am ready for something and here are the options. Buy another 2002 with low mileage for all the reasons you all know about that year and the 2003.Just great years. I have found a couple with mileage around 75,000 for around 8,500. My daughter wants my car and I am going to have a tune up done on it for her. Nothing wrong with it at all, Or get for me a 2011 Juke. I don't know why but I love that car. Been told I won't get much better gas mileage unless it stays in the eco mode. I can pay cash for the Pathfinder. Will have to finance the Juke. Makes me nervous that it's sort of new but I have heard from those who know that it's a good car.
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I recently had the the entire clutch and pressure plate replaced in my car and ever since there has been a sound like metal rattling in gears 2-4. It happens when I have low revs in those gears (particularly going up hills) and seems to go away when I am at high revs (~3k+). The mechanic I initially used says it's nothing but it sounds awful and is making me very nervous. The "Check Engine Soon" light has gone on as well.
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I have an '05 Pathfinder w/ 93k miles. Recently noticed a uneven feel in the power steering, most noticeable at slower (less than 30mph) speeds. Feels like the power steering pump is intermittently engaging/disengaging. As I turn the steering wheel I feel random "tight" or "hard" spots in the steering. Similar to what you would feel if the wheel was against a curb and you were trying to turn into it. Doesn't make any appreciable noise, but can just feel it in the steering wheel.Checked power steering fluid, no issue. Replaced power steering pump, had no effect. Power-flushed the power steering system, had no effect.Oh - and my wife says she hasn't hit any large rocks, logs, or potholes recently!
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What might be the problem with my 2001 Pathfinder 4WD. I notice steering wheel shaking/shimmy when driving but not all the time. The vehicle has 125K miles. Is it tie rods, struts, warped rotors, alignment? What it might be before going to a repair shop. Have had tires rotated and balanced.
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Will try to sum it up: Most of the time, the thing starts like a charm, first try. Every now and then, though, I'll turn the key and either a) nothing will happen or b) it will slowly crank and eventually start. If nothing happens, I have always been able to try again seconds later and everything works OK. Have been through several batteries. Current battery checks out OK, as does starter and alternator.
A short circuit, perhaps? If so, how would I check it out? Problem with taking it to a mechanic is, most of the time all is OK. No pattern as to when the trouble will occur (has yet to happen with vehicle in the shop, of course).
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I have a 2004 Nissan Pathfinder and the front windows keep going down when the engine is off. It first happened two days ago and then last night as I removed the key from the ignition I would hear clicks like the turn signal and then the windows would just go down. I had to restart the car to roll back up. This happened for almost an hour until I could get the battery disconnected. I originally thought it was the keychain because it wasn't working and then the lights would flash and then windows would go down. We've had alot of rain in south Florida. Could this be the problem? If its electrical, is this an expensive problem?
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder. A couple of months ago the check engine light came on and the temperature gauge quickly hit the roof. I was able to pull it into my mechanics shop before any damages was done. They looked at it and said I needed a new thermostat and housing. A few weeks later the temp gauge again went up to near the top. I live, work and shop all in a close radius so am not in my car for long periods of time but the gauge seems to measure high after about 20 minutes of driving in the city (no more than 45 mph) with the AC on.
I turned off my AC and took the car back. They then replaced the fan belt and clutch that engages the fan. Took the car home and two days later temperature was up again. Took it back and they said they had not realized my car had a second thermostat so they changed it (at no additional charge "since they didn't catch that up front") - they kept my car for 2 days. A couple of days later the scenario replayed itself. I took it back in they changed the sensor to the temp gauge (at no additional charge) tested it and still overheated so now they have now also flushed radioator 3 times for any debris. They have had my car for three additional days now.
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My wife's Pathfinder (a 2002) has developed a problem with slow starting. The car cranks well (even at -20F, so it's not a weak battery) but takes a long time to start. It might crank for 5 seconds before sputtering to life. After being driven and shut off, most of the time, it will start up instantly again, just like it used to before the problem started. The problem is intermittent in that it sometimes starts pretty quickly in the morning, although it's not the instant start that it used to be, it might only crank for 1 second or less. I know that sounds like a normal time for a car to crank before starting, but the Pathfinder used to start, almost literally, instantly after the key was turned. So, even 1 second is an uncharacteristically long time.
What I've done:
-- Replaced spark plugs
-- Swapped the starter relays with identical relays under hood
-- Replaced fuel filter
What I haven't done:
--Replaced fuel pump
--Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Both of these are somewhat big jobs (I think I can handle both of them) and more expensive than what I've already done, so I'd like to get some input on where the fault could lie before picking one. Or, am I completely off base thinking it's fuel system?
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I have a 1999 Nissan Pathfinder. It's 4wd with a manual transmission. I was getting an intermittent problem with vibrations coming from the front passenger side wheel when driving on the highway. They recently got worse and I'd notice a slight burning smell coming from the wheel area. There would also occasionally be a metallic clicking/plonking noise coming from the wheel and a slight hissing sound. I took it into a mechanic (not my regular mechanic because he was gone for the week) and they said it has something to do with the transfer case. They said they took the front right tire off after putting it on the rack in neutral, and they couldn't get the to spin freely. They said it could be something with the drive train or transfer case, but they weren't sure without taking it apart. They said it could be something to do with the 4wd not disengaging, but again, they're not sure.
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I have a 02 F250 4x4 5.4. As I drive and when pulling into a driveway I hear a clunk that can be felt in the floor and the steering wheel. I've replaced the wheel bearings and seals, shocks, ball joints, sway bar links and bushings, tie rod ends at the gear box and "right hand inner". The other two tie rods are tight and so is the track bar. I cannot duplicate the sound if I jack it up and move parts around with a pry bar. I can however move the steer box sector shaft upwards about an 1/8. I've adjusted the screw but it didn't do anything. Could it be the steer box or the springs? I've even mounted a GoPro underneath but everything moves and I can't tell why it is.
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord, manual transmission, 135k miles.When I reverse, turn the wheel all the way to the left or right, then accelerate (in reverse), I get a loud clunk from the front. I'm assuming it's something from the front suspension, but I wanted to see what more knowledgeable minds thought.There's no clunk when in forward or in reverse while the wheel is not turned.
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Attached is a video of my car going over speed bumps. It sounds like a rusty bed spring :/ I dont know what to do. The dealership told me that everything is fine, but i dont believe that.
On another side note, i am also experiencing misfires a lot, and the car feels a little under powered. I dont know what part to replace but i was hoping to get some info on what to do, and yes i took it to the dealer, nothing showed up on the vag and like the previous issue they said the car is fine!! My ideal situation is to have someone drive it and confirm that there's an issue, and then obviously to fix the issue.
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This afternoon I was out for a drive and on my way home on the highway I had something give on the front passenger side suspension.
There was an "odd" feeling from the steering and then some noises from the passenger side front of the car. As I was slowing down there was more clunking/shuddering as I came to a stop. After stopping I looked at the wheel and noticed it looked "further" out, and had more give when pushing it than it should have.
I then tried to pull the car further off the road and discovered that it would not go into gear to move at all!
This is what it looks like:
Broken Side Above
Drivers Side Above
You can see above how the strap pulled on the tire, I tried loosening the strap on it up but it was still under tension.
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Just had control arms all replaced under warranty and it's still making chattering noises in the front suspension on broken rippled surfaces same as before ?? Front shocks were also replaced 6 months ago ...
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Vehicle: 2009 Toyota Corolla
Mileage: 55000 kms
I am recently experiencing some weird squeaking/creaking noises coming from my front suspension.. It manifests whenever I am going over humps faster than usual (or if the humps is not "perfectly sloped"). I seldom experience this during daytime but during nighttime, it is very evident.
this is the list of things that I replaced already:
2x ball joints
2x stabilizer links
2x shock absorbers
2x tie rod
2x rack ends
Did some wheel balancing and wheel alignment already...
I was able to replicate this by parking the car in a slope - parallel to the street with the wheels turned to right or left, and pushing the top fender downwards.
Driving along our streets, highway, and highway curved ramps is flawless.. Could this be bushings on stabilizer bars? or the control arms?
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I bout a 2010 AWD LS460 in July and immediately noticed noises coming from the rear and front. The rear was a loud thud going over certain bumps and the front is making rattling noises. I lowered the windows and went down a rather bumpy block and the car sound like the bottom is falling out. I took it to the dealer and they had it for 2 and 1/2 weeks waiting on the rear air shocks to come in. They gave it back to me and did not address the front. Now the service manager is going away for two weeks and wants me to come back if I still feel the need to have the from done. The master tech stated the front left suspension needs replacing. I feel they are trying to drag this out so they dont have to pay for the repairs. The car has 80K and was bought from Bay Ridge Lexus and is not under CPO.
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So I've always had a clunk coming from the front end of my car since I bought it last year. It happens almost every time the suspension flexes. I'm pretty sure my steering is okay as I can turn the wheel quickly and/or forcefully back and forth with the car either on or off and there is no noise; the steering feels solid.
Here is the list of things I have done so far:
-Poly sway bar bushings
-Poly end link bushings
-Poly dog bone bushings
-Cup kit (Springs and shocks)Upper strut mounts & bearings
-Ball joints
-Raxles
After a quick look at my Bentley manual, it seems the only things left to do are control arm bushings (most likely in my mind) and sub frame bushings (less likely). Is there anything else I should check for possible causes that I'm missing?
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I have a 24v gti, but this deals with the front suspension. I replaced my stock suspension with a set of coils and also my drivers side axle with a raxle. Even have new strut mounts, bearings and R32 rear control arm bushings.
When I drive slowly like coming out of the drive way I can hear a continuous clunk happening 1/2 second to 1 sec apart coming from the front suspension, but after I drive a min or 2 it goes away??
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