My '95 Saturn had its starter, elec. cables, battery, the whole starting-system-shabang tested. But occasionally it still won't start...in the evening, after I get home and it sits for 2 hours. The mechanic says it could be the coolant sensor. Is this possible?
View 19 RepliesI've got a 96 Aero with 128k miles. It's AWD with the 4.0L. It's developed an annoying "stumble" on startup. The engine seems to misfire a bit and the car shakes. It goes away when I give it some gas and/or start driving. This started out being very occasional but eventually started happening at least once a day. It doesn't seem to happen with the engine very cold or very warm. It mostly happens when the engine is "lukewarm" (having sat for about an hour). So far, it hasn't died on me. I ran some fuel injector cleaner through and it went away for about a week, but then returned (but not as bad). No stored codes. Within the last 10k miles I have had done:
Compression test (passed) about 10k ago
New plugs, wires
New fuel pump
New water pump
New fuel filter
Tranny rebuild
I've been having this occasional starting issue with my truck. I turn the key and the engine acts like it's going to fire up, so I let go of the key and it doesn't start. Then I try to restart it and either it cranks and fires a few times before it starts, or it fires right up and the starter grinds because I couldn't let go of the key fast enough.
I've had this problem a few times before, but lately it seems to be happening more often. It works normally 98% of the time. Maybe I'm just not letting the engine crank long enough to get it to run before letting go of the key.
Also, the spark plugs were just changed 10k miles ago and when the truck is running it runs great.
My parents bought me a Saturn from my car salesman brother. It came with a squeal upon start up. This squeal is notably worse when turning very hard or when the AC (or even the heat!) is on.
We took it to a large-chain auto repair shop. They replaced the main belt. Then they replaced the tensioner.
We took it to a small locally owned/operated repair shop. They replaced the belt again.
We took it back to the large chain and to a different large-chain auto parts store. Both said it must be the power steering apparatus.
I was out of money from all of the diagnoses so I put the project on hold and drove a squealing car for three months.
So, replaced clips, secured scary looking fire-hazard wire situations, etc, etc. And then he flushed the power steering thing. Then replaced the power steering thing. No dice, she still squeals. I am to drive it around for a week and carefully document all instances of squealing.
Operation Confusing Squeal will be shut down (lack of funding) next weekend without a serious breakthrough.
Over the past few months my '13 350 occasionally seems to hesitate when starting from a light, in a parking spot, in general no/low speed maneuvers. It doesn't do it every time, and it's not a hesitation with engine bucking, backfire, or noise. It just feels like the power takes a few seconds to come on when I hit the pedal. Sometimes. It has been interesting a few times on highway on-ramps...
At first I thought it was my accelerator technique, using the wrong foot angle, but I've been careful to apply the pedal correctly. Since it doesn't feel like the classic engine miss I was wondering if there are any other things to consider, such as transmission (hopefully a software update or something else simple) or anything else.
Lately my Ion has become increasingly harder to start, especially in the cold. I have found that if I depress the gas pedal all the way to the floor when I turn the key it starts easily but rumbles and smokes a little when it starts. If I do not press all the way down it won't start right away but will take 5 or 6 tries or not start at all. Otherwise the car runs fine once its started.
View 7 RepliesOn Sunday I'm driving to the store my LOW COOLANT light goes on. So I buy some coolant. I get home let the car cool off and check my radiator, it is full. My coolant recovery tank is also at the proper level.
Been three days already checked levels again and I'm not losing any coolant.
What the car is NOT doing:
1. Not losing fluid
2. Not running hot
I'm thinking coolant level sensor?
2002 7.3, losing coolant. Occasional whiff of antifreeze, not in oil. I use my truck to tow a food trailer that's only about 4500lbs, some highway, most city driving. 173K clicks, bout Jan 2016 with 130K, first time this has happened...
View 9 RepliesMy 1997 SL is not starting. This is not all the time, just when i need it the most, or when i've stopped for gas at midnight on the interstate 200 miles from home. Turn the key nothing happens. Have headlights, interior ,radio. tried jumping it, no luck. The first time it did it we had stopped for gas, pump was out so started it moved to other side turned it off then it wouldn't start. tried jumping it two times,no luck, turned key on at least 50 times...no luck, then the third guy who stopped to tried tightening the ground, tried it again it started. Started a dozen or so times over the next couple of days and it did it again.
Tried turning the negative terminal tighter again, tried it, it started so it must be the ground right? Well replaced the ground battery cable, tried it several times while it sat there started fine. Moved it 50 feet or so,tried it again wouldn't start. Kicked it...so much for the ground wire theory. Got up the next morning went out..it started. Drove it to advanced and had them hook it up to check battery/alternator/charging. Machine says everything is fine. Decided to give it another chance next morning, started, drove about 1/2 mile, forgot cell phone,ran back, turned it off ,ran back out, won't start.
Now ready to use it for target practice. Still keep thinking its something to do with the battery wires because every time it has started back up,with the exception of letting it sit overnight, i had just messed with the wires. Also am wondering if its a coincidence that all three times it's pulled this it had been started, ran for a short distance, and turned off. Also noticed that although i have interior ,radio etc, when it won't start the radio light does dim somewhat but I don't know if it does that all the time. I am laid off so a trip to the saturn garage is looking really expensive but i don't know what else to do.
When I went to go shopping this afternoon, I discovered my car wouldn't start. It wouldn't even crank, which was strange since it seemed to be running fine just two days ago. At this point I assume either the battery is bad or something else is. It's a bit hard for me to tell since the engine wouldn't even try to turn over.
Initial Observations: When I first tried to turn the the car on it wouldn't even turn over, in fact, all I could hear was the a fairly loud buzzing from behind the dash board. On further attempts I noticed that the info display (or whatever it's called) wasn't displaying the tire pressure readings. I did later notice some "reluctance" from the automatic door mechanism, and earlier this week I observed my car was a bit more reluctant than usual to start, but I assumed it was just the cold weather. After the initial attempt to get my car started, I tried jumping it, but no luck. It still wouldn't start or even turn over. If it's the battery, said battery must have a dead cell, however, wouldn't the engine still try to "turn"?
Later observations: I tried again this evening after it had gotten dark, since it would let me observe the headlights and such. Same behavior as before. I couldn't really tell if lights had dimmed. HOWEVER, when I tried yet again a little later I accidentally set off the alarm. Now I observed the lights were dim and the horn weak.
Additionally, when I turned the alarm off I heard that buzz behind the dash again. Most of what I've seen makes me lean toward the battery, but this noise bothers me and makes me wonder whether there may be some kind of electrical fault.
Other information: My car is a 2008 Saturn Aura, that I got used in Jan of 2010. I assume the battery is at least that old, since I haven't gotten it replaced while I've owned it.
My coolant light goes on, it started in winter in February and continues to yell @ me (checked the coolant and wires all is fine). I went to have it looked at, the mechanic says I need to get the Coolant level sensor replaced, but to do this he says it's part of the coolant reservoir, hence I need to replace both. Which will cost like $300 bucks, which I don't have?
Question: is this true? do you have to replace the reservoir to replace the sensor? I can't find an answer anywhere.
Coolant level message on my 2004 Ion won't go away. I have pulled the overflow tank and cleaned and flushed it. Checked the sensor with my multimeter for continuity, checked fine. Checked and remade wiring connections to the sensor. I thought maybe the float material was the same as would be in an hydrometer so it would only float in the correct mixture/protection level of coolant. Flushed and filled the system with 50/50 mixture of Dexcool. That theory was incorrect. The only thing I've seen so far that makes sense is a "software issue" that was mentioned in another discussion I read.
View 1 RepliesInfo: 2003 Ion-1 165k+ miles
I'm hearing a clunking/knocking noise in my Ion that sounds like the front driver side. It's most audible starting about 30 mph. It grows louder as I drive faster and the rate of clunking/knocking is relative to the speed I am driving. It doesn't change when I push in the clutch or when I'm in a different gear. It does not happen when I rev my engine in neutral. I even shut off my car while moving in a parking lot and no change. The sound changes when I turn (sounds like a more muffled/dull sound but still loud if that makes sense), and in my mind it seems to sound worse when I'm turning right than left.
I noticed the noise on Thursday of last week. It was at the point where I had to have my radio off to notice the noise. Since then it has grown louder and as of yesterday is now overpowering my radio when at reasonable volume.
I just replaced both the driver and passenger wheel bearing in the last 18 months, and I just got new Tier-3 Cooper tires 3 months ago. (I wouldn't think the bearing would knock, but just as history fyi.) I was convinced by the troubleshooting guide in my Haynes manual that it was either the inner or outer CV joint so I replaced the whole Driver side CV Axle and topped off the Tranny Fluid with Dexron-III. No dice. I thought there's a chance it could be my new tires, so I Rotated the tires on the left side F->B/B->F as well and the noise did not seem to change. Spinning the tires by hand while up on my jack stands does not seem to tell me anything (I'm guessing I'd have to have them spinning at about 20/30mph to hear anything).
My next idea at this point is to put the front end up on jack stands and have someone put my car in gear and give it a little gas while I stand nearby and try to pinpoint where the sound is coming from. I'm a little leery about this one, and I'm not even sure if it's going to make the noise when not under load anyway.
When the temperatures drop to the single digits and below, my car won't start. It won't even turn over! I turn the key and there's nothing. So, I sit in the car and then turn the key again. I wait. Then turn the key again. Within about 5-10 minutes, the car starts and its good to go! I've had a new battery installed. And even with the new battery, it does the same thing. At the shop, they check the battery and say it's fine.
View 2 RepliesWe have a 97 Saturn SL2. The belt tensioner assembly cracked and after the guy replaced it, immediately upon driving, the low coolant light starts flashing.
Drove it this way a few times while keeping an eye on coolant level. Parked car for a few days, then notice a big puddle of green coolant under car. It has been sitting now for several weeks.
Could increased tension from the new tensioner pulley cause the water pump to die?
The car has never overheated, though. If water pump was toast wouldn't it overheat?
My 95 Saturn SL1 has been a real trooper these years. This is the first hvac problem I've had.A couple weeks ago it felt like the ac was starting to go, and by last week it had gone. I figured it probably had a slow leak and just needed a recharge. So I bought a kit from the auto parts shop - for $30, it was worth a try!The pressure in the system reads full - even a tad high, without putting any gas in!I double checked everything. Compressor clutch engaged, and the gauge was attached properly.
Inside, I can hear the familiar 'foop' when I switch from "hot" to "cold," which I'm guessing is the air blend door, and the air is noticeably hotter on "hot" mode - so I assume the blend motor is ok. What might be going on here, or where a well-aimed kick might have an effect?
I read that I can change the start up pics on my GS nav screen when starting the car. I like the default ones but would like to try something new. When I went to transfer my images in the directory, it asked if I really wanted to delete the existing ones. I was under the impression that what is default remains and that I can install new ones also. Does the default ones will be removed from car nav system?
View 5 RepliesMy 2009 Vue developed a coolant leak into the oil at 130k km. I had to have replaced. GM has a technical note about this exact problem with the recommended fix: Engine Replacement. The coolant was leaking into the oil at the water pump.
The Statement from the dealership states that there was a crack in the block near the water pump. The dealership was good but a block should not break like this. Is this a design defect with the block, and if so is their a class action already started?
Basically it's a coolant leak problem for my 1996 Saturn SL1 Sedan. Here are the details of the problem....
About 6 months ago my Saturn started leaking coolant. It was very minor, I'd have to add a pint or so every 1 hour worth of driving or 40 miles (I experienced these early stages of a coolant leak before with a 1997 Buick Century). The problem very slowly increased 4 months ago and at about this time I noticed coolant residue on some of the engine parts. Using logic I determined the coolant must be leaking onto the belt which was spraying the fluid around, including the underside of the hood in a very fine line.
By 1 month ago I was adding about a quart of coolant every 15 miles. Still, very manageable with no other problems. Then 2 weeks ago it happened.... For the first time when I'd start my car it would issue that high-pitch squealing sound I'm sure we've all heard on older cars and thought, "man, that driver needs to get their car checked out." The noise would last for a few seconds, then stop. Rarely the sound would kick in also when coming out of a full stop.
Then 1 week ago, it all got worse. Now the car squeaks for around 2-5 seconds 50% of the time after a cold start. 80% of the time from a full or partial stop. About 90% of the time if my speed drops around 15mph. And now it even makes the noise for a few seconds (10% of the time) while driving +30mph. And the coolant leak is really bad. I have to fill the reservoir (add about 90%) anytime I drive more than a few blocks or +5 minutes. Also, for the first time, anytime I stop the car the coolant just drips onto the ground at a significant rate.
What sort of a problem I might be looking at based on my description?
This is a 2003 honda civic with about 150k on it. Recently the check engine light came on so I went to Advance auto parts to get my codes read. I got back that the oxygen sensor had gone bad and each and every cylinder was misfiring?
What could be causing the each cylinder to misfire like that? I drive it about 60mi every day and it doesn't seem to drive all that rough. So it's kinda weird that it said every cylinder was misfiring, like how could I even drive it like that?
I heard the oxygen sensor is something I don't have to worry too much about. I could still drive it. The clerk told me to some spray carburetor cleaner on it and that should do something for it.
But recently I've noticed that it starts up rough, seems to strain for about 2-3 seconds then it starts.
Recently its been pretty cold here, and in the morning or when it sits for awhile i start her up and about 10secs after i start her the little "stop" light comes on and says "check coolant". so went through all that, checked the service manual and dont see any red flags. and if i were to turn it off and then turn it back on it wont show again... but still curious.
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