Starting - Isuzu - Trooper :: 1995 - Difficult To Start On First Turn When Cold
May 1, 2011
I have cleaned the fuel injectors, put in new spark plugs and new spark plug wires. What else I can do. The only time it starts easily is when it's very hot. If I leave it off for just 5 minutes, it will start up quickly. And a few times, when it is dead cold it will start on the first turn. All other times I have to crank it for what seems like minutes. I'm killing batteries and starters on a regular basis.
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My old Trooper, which is painted like the Merry Prankster bus, has had a series of electrical/ignition problems. It began earlier this winter with an occasional engine miss and also occasional a failure to start. My mechanic has replaced the distributor, the coil and the ignition control module (twice). Each time it runs fine for a couple of days and then starts acting up again. It is currently sitting in my driveway with zero spark coming out of the coil. The year of my Trooper is 1990.
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I have a 1993 Isuzu Trooper. I put too much oil in the other day, about half a quart, and wanted to drain it out of the bottom. I loosened the drain plug like normal and it wouldn't come out at all, just spun in the same place. Tried retightening the plug and it wouldn't tighten either. It was tight when I started. It would get tight for a second and then get loose again, feeling like a stripped thread. Oil is leaking out from around the plug. I cannot twist the plug with my fingers, so its not super loose but it's loose enough to leak oil. Is this a easy fix for an oversized plug or will the entire oil pan have to be replaced?
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Know that squealing sound a belt makes when it's loose and needs to be replaced? Well what is it when you hear that sound, but you know it's not a belt? It happens intermittently, usually when the car is cold...and it's been happening more and more lately...like whatever the problem is, is getting worse
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I have a 1998 isuzu trooper. it is over heating and there is air being put into the cooling system. there is a lost of fluid but only the same amount each each time and i dnt knw where too. i replaced water pump had radiator serviced and it flowing at the right flow for truck. it still over heated. i tried chemical called blue devil it worked for two days then failed it is freezing cold here and no garage but do have all tools.
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The problem I'm having is it starts fine in the morning but when I shut it off it it takes about an hour to start back up ..
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I own a 2001 isuzi trooper, the water pipe has been broken a couple times, so the radiator has been leaking so my car overheats. But I fixed it a couple of months ago, yet after I fixed it the car kept going through the water/coolant extremely fast and was overheating unless i put water in it every other day.
Yet, a couple of days ago, I was driving home, and i heard a bubbling noise, ignoring it i kept driving only to have complete loss of my accelerator and had my car rolling along the highway unable to accelerate. (And the last time I put water in the radiator was 10 days ago) now my car won't even turn on, and it sounds like it is having a very difficult time when I try the ignition. plus when I do try to turn the engine on, coolant is coming out of my exhaust pipe.
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Rebuilt engine, installed, started right up but had loud tic and started leaking oil. Pulled engine, fixed leak, inspected heads, re-installed, turns over but doesn't run. Weird thing is, first time I try to start it each evening it runs for about a second and then dies and then won't try to run again till the next day. This has happened 5 days in a row. I sprayed starter fluid in intake, no luck. I borrowed scan tool, no codes set just won't start.
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Recently, my 1988 Isuzu Trooper began dying at high elevations (above 7,500 feet). I have had the car for ~7years and have never had this problem. That is, in the past, i've been able to drive it up to 9,300 feet with no problem. Could this be vapor lock? If so, why would vapor lock all of sudden start happening? If not vapor lock, what could it be?
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I have a 2009 Acura TSX that I bought used ~85,000 miles on it. It has been inspected 5 times and each mechanic says the car is basically new in perfect condition. However, it has an extremely difficult time starting after sitting in cold temperatures for more than about 12 hours. If I drive it every 8 hours or so it is fine. Everything has been checked repeatedly; alternator, wiring, battery connection etc. .. . The battery is only 3 months old.
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1995 aero, 4.0 auto AWD. wouldn't start about a month ago and got parked. got around to working on it and it would start and run a couple seconds then just crank and crank, I tossed another edis module on it that i had with no change, tried it without the MAF plugged in, had consistent spark while cranking. fuel pump would prime just fine. after a while I was experimenting around and held the throttle WOT and got a couple coughs.
after a while of cranking and trying different stuff I had began to get a few backfires (and by this time i had the spout and the octane plug out) and I was actually trying to see if i could see backfires out the tail pipe cause i couldn't determine if they were intake or exhaust side, it finally started. it ran really rough and coughed and sputtered and backfired a few times, then after about 30 seconds it smoothed out and started idling like normal.
I took it for a drive and it ran normal, so i shut it off and reinstalled the spout and octane plug and took it for another drive and it ran better (assuming the ign advance is working, so it must not be in limp home mode)
When I first started I pulled codes 114 and 118, ACT sensor out of range and ECT voltage high (Note: when I got it started the gauge didn't show it as being very "warmed up" even though it idled about 30 minutes before I drove it about 10 miles). I am gonna let it cool for the night and see how it starts in the morning, then try pulling codes again...
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Car is at the stealership right now 74k miles (CPO until 75k). Having issues with cold starts, weather has been getting into the 40's, and when coming out of work in the ramp the car has a very hard time starting (usually taking 3 times to fully turn over). However, in the morning coming out of my heated garage the car starts right up no problems whatsoever.
There are zero codes being thrown, zero lights on the dash. Brought the car in for diagnosis and the dealer has had it now for 2 days - still "unsure of the issue" but they have proposed that it is either a fuel pump (covered by CPO) or Carbon-Build up.
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My 97 Subaru sport has trouble starting when left until cold, it always finally starts, but wont rev at all until its has been running for 20-30 seconds.
Other symptoms include....Once running it also seems to be lacking power across the low rev range. but then seems fine above 4k rpm.
If i get stuck in stationary traffic for a while, the check engine light comes on and i lose all power, it hardly pulls its self off to a start. But if i were to rev the engine and let it drop back to idle a couple of times the light goes off and i get power back to set off.
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I had a clutch, slave cylinder, and master cylinder replaced about 20,000 miles ago. Everything seemed to be working fine until I drove across the Rockies. The transmission was extremely difficult to shift, and the vehicle would actually roll forward when cranking the engine at fuel stops (temps were minus twenties). Once I got out of the mountains on both ends of the trip (where it was warmer), the clutch worked normally. The local Ford dealer found lots of air in the hydraulic clutch system, bled it, and it worked fine for several months.
The clutch is doing the same thing currently, but not all the time. Some days it's fine, other days it's difficult to shift although double clutching seems to work. It gets particularly hard to shift after a long drive (e.g., interstate driving for a couple of hours). I took it back in this morning to see if the dealer could figure out what is going on, they're saying it's likely a bad slave cylinder. I've heard the 1995 Explorer clutches are a bear to properly bleed, and can't work but think there may still be some air in the system.
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My 1995 Isuzu Rodeo began stalling when braked/stopped. The car would continue running only if the gas pedal was lightly pushed, keeping the flow going. I treated it with Seafoam and water remover and the problem went away for week. Now it will stall, then refuse to start for a period of time. When attempting to start the Rodeo a loud 'strangled' sound is sometimes heard, then nothing. Try again a few minutes later and the car starts and the ride home over the next mile is smooth. My untrained guess points to a bad starter. I also believe there were two problems at the same time, one being junk in the fuel line, perhaps a loose battery connection as a contributor, then a starter problem.
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I have a '95 bmw 325i. After leaving overnight, as the weather gets cooler (live in PA) on startup I get an EEP-2 error across my dash and none of my dash electronics work. My speedometer dial works only. It seems as the weather or the car warms up, upon restart all functions return. Needless to say it never works in winter but I drive it rarly then anyway. My local dealer wants $130 just to put on diagnostics machine then start charging or replacing my dash. Dash was replaced by that dealer 10K miles ago by previous owner. Dealer says (on phone message) he doesn't know what the error means. I used to write diagnostic code for jets and know somebody wrote that code for some error. That it works fine when warm and dry (kind of like me) makes me think a capacitor or relay is sticking (like every other contact has in this car). The internet crowd hasn't cracked it and most others have ended up spending $1000 or more to replace.
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1995 vw Jetta 110K miles.. My car has a hard time starting in the mornings or when it sits idly for a while (when I park overnight) . On any bright and sunny day, it's like the car is brand new - starts with no problems at all. Tried several mechanics and none of them have been able to diagnose the problem. To make it simple, cold outside - car will not start, warm/hot outside car will start.
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I have a '95 pontiac grand AM with about 208,000 miles on it. About a week ago, i noticed it was getting harder to start when the engine is cold. When the engine has warmed up, it starts up right away, however, the engine begins to sputter and sounds as if it is going to die. The engine still sputters while driving and the car begins to jolt back and forth. When I come to a stop, the car sounds as if its going to shut off. Today, I started the car and it was sputtering so I turned it off and then wasn't able to start it for about 40 mins. I let the car sit for about 20 mins and then tried it, started right up. What could be causing the sputtering and engine throbbing? What's wrong?
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2005 Isuzu Ascender 6cyl--auto-- all power--2 wheel dr-- Air cond blows very little air that is only slightly cooler than the outside temp. This only happens during hot weather( 90 Fahrenheit or higher ) after highway driving for extended periods of time, usually after a few hours. It works as it should during any other conditions. After letting everything cool down, it works properly. The dealer says they cannot get it to duplicate this action and therefor says there is nothing wrong with it. I first noticed this at about 50,000 miles because that was my first trip in it. It now has 70,000 miles.
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My (mom's) Hundai will not start. It tries to turn over but never makes it. We don't smell gas, not flooded, might be the fuel pump. The code sensor device will not give a code to indicate a specific problem.
In the past, the car will give a static shock every time you get out and push door closed. Very difficult to start and gas must be pumped to start after gassing up. Also, a bell (ding sound) rings at random even if the car is driving. What to look at next?
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I am replacing the rear passenger hub assembly and as soon as i put a significant amount of torque to the axle nut...i get a crazy grinding noise and the hub becomes very difficult to turn. When I disassembled the old assembly it took very little effort to push the axle freely in the splines of the hub after i took the 32mm nut off. Now when i start to get the grinding, i remove the axle nut and it take some serious whacks with a larger hammer and brass drift to free the axle spline in the hub.
Ive dug around online and found someone that had to slip a couple pieces of wood in between the sheet metal dust shield and the end of the axle to fully seat it.
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