Starting - Honda - Cr-v :: 2002 - Takes 2 Times Turn Over To Start Engine
Jan 6, 2014
My 2002 Honda CRV has had occasional problems starting over the years i.e. takes 2 times to start engine. But lately it is struggling more to start i.e., engine turns over but you can hear it struggling to start i.e. sounds like dead battery but in fact battery is brand new. Now it can take 3 turns to start and this morning it took 5 tries. The problem is no mechanic can find out what is wrong i.e. starter, fuel line, electrical or what? because it always starts when in the shop. I have even taken it to the Honda dealer and they could not find the problem. This is a random problem but seems to be getting worse and happening more often. I am worried I will be stuck somewhere when the car does not start AT ALL one day.
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Revo stage 2 --1.8t ... For the past few days I have tried to figure this issue out I am having with my 337. The car takes 2 or 3 times to start from being cold. Once its started it has no issue it drives awesome, pulls hard no codes when vag com'd. Can start it up anytime with ease for the rest of the day. Tried doing to solve:
-I have pretty new coilpacks---FSI- they are ok
-Spark plugs are 3 months old --checked those
-Checked Battery and its all normal and no issue
-Cleaned the throttle body = No change
-Installed new CTS yesturday (green) < no change
-Cleaned the MaF = NO change in start up but car runs way smoother
-Put in new Filter= No major change
-Did the Crank sensor under a month ago (Bosch)
I have a few more things on my list to check :
1. Fuel pump relay
2. Fuel Pressure Reg
3. ECU relay/ check immobilizer
4. Fuel Pump
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I'm trying to figure out what the problem with my truck is. Starting sometimes takes a few tries. It will start then stall immediately or run rough for a bit and stall or run normal. At first I thought it was electrical since I used a jump start off a battery charger and it started right up. The battery was 5 yrs old so I got a new one and it's starting better but still not all the time. I replaced the fuel filter and it didn't seem to make any difference. I tested the fuel pressure and it's at 52 PSI before and after starting. Seems to start better when warm. Runs perfectly fine after starting, no other issues.
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I have a 2002 Prius that doesn't start properly, It takes about 3-10 tries, put key in , try and start, pull key out, repeat.
Brake pumps are working, 12 volt battery is 6 months old and has voltage. This behavior is only at after sitting all night, not during the day. Car has about 200k miles on it. No codes.
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I have a 1998 Explorer XLT with the 4.0 sohc engine.
Recently the truck started being difficult to start and takes a few times of cranking to get it going. Once running, it idles and drives fine on city streets and freeways. When trying to start it turns over fine but doesn't start. After a few times of that, it will finally start. Sometimes it will sputter out an die but then it will start right away and be fine.
It never starts right away when cold and when hot or after short trips its intermittent...Sometimes it will start right up...others it takes a time or two of cranking. I just replaced the fuel filter and it did not work. I am thinking the fuel pump but since its in the tank, I am hoping its not that.
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Alright, I picked up this 92 bonne se 3800 about a month ago for cheap so i figured i would have to do some work to it...i was not let down there...when i first got it it would start but kind of rough then smooth out and would run and drive great...now for the issues
when it got colder (and was still starting) i would have to wait for it to warm up or rev the engine a few times to get it to kick into gear, otherwise you would shift into gear and nothing would happen.
Now the thing is not starting, after cranking it once in a while it will hiss a puff of something out of the ends of a rubber connector on top of the throttle body. and the area around this is wet with what smells like gas. what would this be? it will crank over but not catch. and it just happened. it was starting then then next day this.
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My wife and I have a Nissan Quest 2000. Our vehicle broke down last November 21, 2010 and the mechanic replaced the alternator and the battery. Our vehicle worked fine after that, but two weeks ago the battery cable came loose and I had to have that fix, by another mechanic. Our van worked fine for a week and now the Quest takes 15-30 minutes to turn over. What is wrong?
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I have a 2005 SE 3.3L engine with 115000Miles,
When you turn the ignition key , you have to wait for it to crank 6-7 times before it starts. whether engine is cold or warm it makes no difference.
I was wondering how your engines ( 3.3Ls) behave, does that start immediately after 1-2 cranks, or it is normal for this type of engines to take 6-7 turns ?
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Over the past 3 years or so, my 1993 Honda Civic began not starting at very random times. Everything would appear to be working but the engine wouldn't fire up, until after a few tries or minutes. I got the fuel pump relay replaced last March and that worked for a bit but then my car acted up again in June and an electrical connector to the fuel pump was replaced. My car had been starting every time since, until last week. This is the worst it has ever been; my engine took about 3 hours (re-trying it here and there) to decide to turn over and start on its own, worked great for 3 days and then again just would not start. On a whim, I jumped it that time and it worked. This seems strange to me because all the electricity in the car was working when it wouldn't start, and my battery checked out fine when it was tested recently.
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My 2002 4.8L Silverado recently started having this intermittent starting problem.
A few days ago I got in to start it, turned the key and nothing happened. Lights, radio and power locks all were working fine but engine would not crank or turn over. Turned the key off and on a few times and then the truck started fine.
It started fine for about 3 days. Then got in to start it the next day and this happened again. Turn the key and nothing. Lights, power locks, radio all working ok. Turned the key off and on multiple times but still nothing. So I cleaned the battery cable connections and fully charged the battery, even though it checked out ok. Tried it again and same thing was happening.
This time I looked at the ignition and starting relays under the hood in the electrical box. I swapped a few of them around, tried to start it each time and still nothing.
So I had the vehicle towed to the dealership to be checked. The next day the service man calls me to tell me when they went to check it, the truck is starting fine.
I am not sure if this is a starter problem, ignition switch problem or maybe the computer. The thing is, I can't drive it like this because it is no longer reliable.
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1999 Accord, 110k mi., stalls while driving or stopped a few times a week, then takes a couple of minutes to turn over. Mechanic replaced or cleaned main relay, fuel pump, and ignition module. Could sell it but recently rebuilt tranny and replaced timing belt. Mechanic is stumped.
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I am having issues with my 02 Nissan Sentra turning over when I am starting the car. First for some background my car has almost exactly 115k miles on it. I have noticed the problem is getting slowly worse and worse. What happens is when I turn the key the engine makes a slow grrrr and rev sound, then a slighty faster grrr and rev, followed by a faster one before it finally turns over. There have been instances before when I have have to give it a good two or three times before it would turn over at all. I am not sure what is causing the problem. I do have one idea is that recently my gas mileage has been going down so I added Techron from the auto shop before 2 of my last 3 fillups (I didn't on the last fill up since I was having the issues) Could that cause the problem? Other than that I am thinking maybe something with the battery (its a bit over 3 years old) or the spark plugs or fuel pump would be my best bet? I tried to take an audio recording of the issue but you have to really turn up the volume to hear the low lever grrr and revs before the car starts.
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My embattled 92 civic hatchback has developed an issue that makes it take forever to start. I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the start position, and then I have to wait for up to 10 to 15 minutes to hear the click-hum of the fuel pump priming (which turns off the check engine light) before I can start it. I've noticed that it's much worse on wet days, but generally starts right up if it's only been off for a few moments. I used to just give the Civic ample warning before I need to go somewhere by running out, turning the key to start, and then letting it sit there, but this is beginning to wear down the battery. I've replaced the main relay to no avail, and once the car is running it does just fine, which makes me think that the fuel pump is fine.
Full disclosure: this thing also has a bad oil problem. A diesel mechanic changed the head gasket several months ago (owing to yet another starting problem, and I'm starting to think it was the same starting problem, and that I blew the head gasket from trying to push-start the thing), and in our efforts, we seem to have messed up the valve cover gasket. There is oil in the plug wells, and there's some power loss as the engine is trying to cough up the oil. I haven't replaced it yet because it doesn't seem to be a critical issue as long as I keep feeding it more oil.
I've done some searching on the web, and the general consensus of the internet (and the internet HAS to be right, right?) is a bad ECU. When I look this up in my manual, getting to the ECU is just a matter of pulling the carpet in the passenger-side floorboard out of the way. Okay, great. Only problem: I can't find a place where I can buy a good ECU. I could probably find one at a junkyard, but there's no guarantee there. If I do manage to find one, I want to be able to return it if replacing it doesn't fix anything.
Fuel pump - checked before we changed the head gasket, came back okay
Starter - I changed it by myself before we changed the head gasket
Ignition Switch - The key is optional, but everything else electronic in the car responds properly when the switch is in the proper position.
Distributor/Rotor cap - Changed when we changed the head gasket
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My 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
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My car was fine when I left work (in a city) but after 30 or so highway miles (by the time I got home) my power steering had gone out. At home I saw that the belt had come off (but not broken). I had a friend of mine replace the tensioner (which was broken) when everything was put back together the car would no longer start, the engine sounds like it is going to start but then refuses to turn over. Doesn't seem to be a battery issue as it's fairly new and all the lights, etc come on. Checked the spark plugs and they are fine...seems like power coil...but I find it hard to believe that would be effected by the tensioner? Something that we might have missed?
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I have a 1999 Honda Civic manual transmission. 1.6 litter. I have a starting problem. I have replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. Sometimes the car starts up immediately and sometimes it takes 2-3 try's (4-5 secs cranking). It is worse with fuel is low.
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I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 (made in Japan) with 195,000 KM on it and noticed that the car would crank for several seconds before it catches and starts. I have replaced the air filter, changed the spark plugs at 190K, use premium fuel and this is still happening. I have not replaced the spark plug wires as I was told at the time that it was not necessary. I notice that this seems to happen when my car is in the garage at temps above 0 degrees Celsius. When my vehicle is parked outside in a cold winter day, it seems to start quicker.
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When I start my truck after it has been sitting for a while... I.E. Everything is cold. It takes about 2-3 seconds for the alternator to start putting out voltage (the lights are dim, and the voltmeter on the dash registers about 11 volts). My question is: Am I running on borrowed time and should I change out the alternator, or is there another underlying problem I should be looking for? OR... is this normal; I've never seen this before.
2002 s10 p/u 4cyl stick shift ..
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Having a problem with the engine cranking over a few times before actually starting. This only happens after the car has been sitting over night. Thought maybe it was a bad battery, but it has been replaced in the last few months.
When I turn the key to start, it tries to fire for up to 3 seconds before actually starting. This only happens on the first start of the day, after that it starts quickly with no problems.
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I have a 1999 Honda Civic and it won't start. When I turn the key there is no engine sound, all is quiet. We tried the jumper cables but no results. It had been in the garage since my husband passed away, I usually started it on the weekends but have not done so for a month or so. What can be the cause?
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It usually takes three times of trying to start before it actually completely starts,it starts then immediately stalls usually twice and on the third try it starts right up.
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