Starting - Gasoline - Geo - Pump - Metro :: 1997 - Stalled Driving Up A Hill / Won't Restart
Jan 17, 2011
I have a 97 Geo Metro two door that just stalled on me one day driving up a hill. It was low on fuel and so I thought it might have just ran out of fuel. I put more fuel in it but it would not start. I had it towed back home and disconnected the hose out of the fuel pump to see if any fuel would spray out. It did not. This lead me to conclude the fuel pump is bad. I replaced the fuel pump but this still did not fix the problem. I had an electrical guy looking at it run a bypass wire to the fuel pump and it still did not work. His conclusion was that the ECM is bad. Does this sound like a logical conclusion?
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I bought a used 2007 Santa Fe limited 3.3 last year. I'm currently at 98k miles. I replaced fuel Spenser's, added remote start and a curt hitch, did the head gasket service, did a maintenance to replace spark plugs and coolant.
Everything was ok ( although noticed with our single digit temps the engine was slow to start) then yesterday happened. Starting car in driveway and I got a check engine light. Tried restarting car and it stayed on. No problems. Drove about 15 miles and parked car. It sat for for three hours and then used it to go a few miles up the road ( engine light came on). No problems.
Had lunch, restarted car, light on, and Then oil can red light came on. Drove about 5 miles and while slowing down for a light I felt the power steering go, car stalled, and I couldn't restart. Never heard any whines or shrieks. Pushed car into a gas station and tow truck came. He tried to jump it ( it clicks when I tried to start it but it never turned over) and if his power supply was on and I tried to crank engine it made no sounds. Towed to a shop where mechanic tried same thing. Same result. They put car on rack and tried to manually crank engine. Couldn't budge it and told me engine seized. 4500 estimate to replace engine.
Took my own mechanic out to car ( night and freezing) and he did a few other checks and agreed that engine seized but thought it was weird I didn't hear the whine of the ball bearing getting shredded. Thinks a sensor blew, causing oil pump to fail, causing engine seize.
I'm now reading about multiple issues with crank shaft sensors and pulley separation and it seems like that is a possibility however I can't get my car to turn over at all. Granted it is freezing out here.
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My wife has an '03 Ford Expedition with 110k miles on it. It began dying while driving. Sometimes while moving. Other times when stopping or idling. She would describe that sometimes when it began acting like it was going to die she could "give it gas" and it would revive, other times that wouldn't work. It would usually restart after one or two tries. Our local mechanic did a tune up and replaced a coil. During the trip she began hearing a sound of "metal shredding" and the car died and wouldn't restart. She had it towed to a ford dealer. They replaced the IAC valve.
After that the dying would continue but instead of dying right away it would "lose acceleration, and eventually die within a few seconds" Took it to another ford dealership and they replaced the fuel pump and relay. It would work fine for a few weeks and then start dying again. Another local mechanic noted the error code P0231 "Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low" He kept it for a few weeks and was able to get it to die for him once but not again. The dying continued. Sometimes it would work great for weeks, other times it would die continually on the same trip. Took it to a 3rd dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.It dies in the cold and in the heat. Usually after driving at least 20 minutes into a trip. Once it dies once it will typically continue to do so until resting for a day or so. Sometimes with a full tank of gas, sometimes with a low tank.
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Almost every time I start my 2001 Ford Focus, it won't start. The starter functions but the engine won't start. I have to pump it, give it gas, and once it starts, it's perfectly fine, no stalling, no problems after that. That is until I turn the engine off. When I go to start it again, say after doing an errand or two, it may or may not happen again throughout the day, the problem only occurring when I attempt to start it.
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2K Metro has a hole in the gasoline tank fill tube, between the gas cap and tank. It doesn't leak only when putting gas in. Is this hard to change or patch? I just found a replacement fuel filler neck. Is this hard to change. Can you change it with gas in the tank if you're careful?
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I bought the car( like six months ago) there has always been a loud humming noise from the fuel pump ( I'm pretty sure it is the fuel pump anyways) not the normal whirring noise the fuel pump makes but a hum you can hear about ten feet away. Had no issues till just lately when the afternoons are well into a hundred degrees. That is when my car starts giving me issues. After one of these hot days on my ride home from work, I had just come off the highway and stopped at a stop light when I felt the engine bogging out, the engine stalled and I had to push it to the side of the road.
Its worth mentioning that this humming noise is much louder in the heat than the cool morning then when I turned the key to hear the fuel pump(auto fuel inject) it was louder than it has ever been, and would keep stalling on the way home, I had at the most a quarter tank of gas (gas boy is busted/stuck I think) the fuel pump is bad? Could it be the sock? I thought I read somewhere that my girl pump uses gas to cool down, and that having the tank any less than a quarter could lead to the fuel pump overheating????
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Just replaced the starter and battery on my old but loved 4Runner. I drove it for an hour and a half last week and couldn't restart it. Just nothing - one click I think. A friend tapped on the starter and it started...but I'm not sure whether the car just cooled down at that point. Took it to the garage and they said they couldn't find anything wrong (no surprise, right?) Now I'm afraid to take longer trips.
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I just bought a used 98 chevy metro. I drove it over a total of 30 miles on test drives. Every thing was as it should be. Now it dies at idle and is difficult to restart. I have to wait til it cools down completely to get it to fire again.
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ok, i just became the proud owner of a 71 dodge dart.. fuel pump was not working, and am converting to an electric (airtex e8016s) and am told i need a relay. airtex doesn't seem to have one, is there another i can use? fairly new at this sort of thing, but have fixed a 72 honda motorbike, so not afraid of engines or whatnot.
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Was coasting down a hill(manual transmission) and the car stalled out on me. Tried for a couple minutes to restart it with no luck, the engine turns over but just wont start.
As I post this I still haven't got the car home so I haven't been able to do any trouble shooting yet. Once I get it home I'll ceck for fuel and spark, and from what I have read already people have said it could be the Crankshaft Sensor.
2001 Accent 1.5 - Manual
Up until this there has been no signs of any issues with running or starting...
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I recently bought a 1998 F150 with 4.6 . I've been having problems starting it after I drive it awhile... When I try to restart it, it just clicks out on the firewall... The difference in what I've read about this problem and mine is that after 30 or 40 minutes mine starts right up , so far . I know the battery is good and I put a new solenoid , battery cable ends and a neutral safety switch . I just can't pinpoint the problem...
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I have a 1997 Toyota Hilux (unleaded, not diesel) and I'm looking for input as she keeps breaking down but no one is able to figure out the problem. While in gear and driving, the gas stops engaging and the speed slowly drops. The car stutters while slowing down but then if I switch gears or rev the engine it will stop. After some time this continues to happen more frequently (at all speeds) until the car eventually stops and dies. Try to restart and the engine will turn over but not start. After sitting for a night or so, though, she starts up and runs just fine. Thus no mechanics have been able to solve the issue!
Could be a fuel problem as the exhaust pipe makes a banging sound when this happens, but it could also be electrical.
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When I had 67 miles on my 2013 Chrysler T&C Van it stalled and would not immediately restart. The Electronic Vehicle Information Center revealed both the coolant and engine oil temp was in excess of 300 degrees. After 15 minutes the temps were between 280 and 285. The engine started and I drove slowly the3 miles to my house and had it towed to the dealership the next day. Mechanic found the quick connect coolant line to 3rd seat heater was improperly installed at factory allowing 1 gallon plus of coolant to escape.
A mechanical engineer and a Chrysler mech ( not one from the dealership) advises it is just a matter of time until I have internal engine damage. Chrysler Owner Assistance Dept assigned a case mgr. She reported the van was repaired and operating properly because the coolant line was repaired. Their first offer was 1 months loan payment, which I refused.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Rav4 that just had an oil change and air filter replacement a little over a week ago. Today I was driving when the oil light suddenly came on (for the first time ever) followed by the check engine light. The car would not accelerate with pressing the gas and slowly came to rest on the side of the road. I tried to restart it and it made some noise but didn't start. I did check the oil and it is showing that its full.
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I have a 2005 Pontiac Grand Am that won't start. It was working fine. Then one day, it half started and stalled and won't restart. It will crank over and there is fuel getting to the injectors. If I shoot in starter fluid, it will start for a second and die.
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I have a 2005 Corolla with 78,000 miles. The other day it stalled at a stop sign and wouldn't start. I got it towed to the repair shop and they called me the next day with the following:
1. Under the back seat is a fuel compression module. This has gone bad. They need to take out the seat, order the part, install new.
2. The belt that drives the accessories motor (or something like that, don't recall the exact phrasing) is worn, cracking, and probably going to break. Needs replacing. Battery is corroding and needs replacing.
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1.5L with automatic and 90K miles. In December going 60 mph on the highway at steady speed the car stalled, would not restart, towed home, tried new fuel pump relay, made no difference, put old relay in and it started, ran great for 6 months and now after filling up the tank, I hit a bump and went around a corner and it stalled again, same scenario, towed home and it started the next day. Been running fine since. Ground on fuel pump/ bad gas? another relay in the fuel pump circuit?
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I have a 1998 Ford F150 with 4.2.. Started off a intermittent problem of not starting acct no fuel. Now will not start at all. Checked all fuses and relays.. Am not getting voltage at fuel pump. Changed ECM thinking that was the problem.. Have checked all multi wire connectors for corrosion and tightness. Am at a lost what to try next.
Also, not sure if its related or not. The turn signals and hazard flashers do not work. When I turn on the hazard flashers, nothing happens. If I leave the flashers switch on, the turn signal work. Checked all fuses and relays and they appear good.
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have 2002 Explorer with 4.6l that stalled at a stop light and upon restart, there was noticeable ticking and a sucking sound. The exhaust regularly sucks your hand against the pipe. Ticking is from all around the engine. Exhaust smells like rotten eggs.
Son was driving and we just got it back to house so I do not know much more than that. Where to start to diagnose.
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My 2001 4.6L F-150 has been sitting on the driveway, used once every 2 weeks or so for the last 3 yrs. I came to start it a few days ago and it kept turning over but not starting. The key security chip is working, battery is charged, all plugs are firing, fuel pump fuse and relay check good. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes I hear the fuel pump priming, other times it doesn't. The times it does prime, the truck fires right up.
The times it doesn't prime, engine won't start. When the pump does prime, and while the engine is running, the pump makes a noticeable buzzing sound, much louder than normal. When the pump primes. fuel pressure measures at 42psi in the ON position, 36psi with engine running, and 46psi with engine running and vacuum hose removed. I believe all these are within specs.
My question is this: Is it safe to assume that the pump is going bad and will eventually fail completely? My second question is (and I know this can be debated til the end of time) should I get the Motorcraft or aftermarket? I have Airtex, Spectra, Carter, and Delphi available locally.
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The car starts fine. It sometimes takes a few seconds of turning the car over to get it started. I guess I should state that it is a 3cyl 5 speed. When you go to drive it there is no power. A hill I use to go up in 4th gear I now have to use 2nd gear. I have replaced the plug wires and it operates the same. If I take off each wire while it is running you can tell that cylinder was working. I have not checked the compression yet. I am thinking it might be the fuel pump. I'm going to also check the fuel pressure.
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