Starting - Civic - Honda :: 1998 - Bogged Down / Clicking Coming From Dashboard On Passenger Side
Apr 26, 2011
I have a 98 honda civic with greater than 200,000 miles on it. I've only had it for a couple of months now and for the whole time it has driven great. I do need to change the oil and was getting ready to do that this coming weekend but today when i was driving it, it kind of bogged down then was fine. Then it did it again and just died. I then restarted it and it was fine for a few seconds and i was going in reverse, then it did it again and died again. Now it wont start at all. It turns over but just doesnt start. Also there is like a clicking noise that sounds like its coming from the dashboard on the passenger side.
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic Si with a clicking noise that appears to be emanating from the front passenger side. It appears to be "rotational" in nature. This noise is very similar to that one might hear when a CV joint is going out but it's heard when going forward. My mechanic (whom I trust) has been unable to fix this problem. Over the course of approximately 4 months they've:
1. Repacked the wheel bearings on both front wheels.
2. Replaced the strut mount
3. Replaced the carrier bearing with a used one.
4. Verified that all brakes are tight and working properly, and 5. Replaced the axle 4 times with both new and rebuilt versions.
Some things I've noticed:
1. The noise might not appear until the car is warmed up a bit, that is, driven 10 to 20 miles
2. It goes away when I apply the brakes but comes back immediately.
3. It occurs even when the engine is turned off and I'm coasting down a slight slope. My mechanic is unsure how to proceed and the noise is driving me crazy.
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Vehicle has been in the shop several times within one month( Battery test, replace accelerate idle switch, rear end replace) latest dilemma is with a constant clicking sound coming from under/ near dashboard on passenger side . No interior lights. All this occurs before I turn over the ignition. On some occasions if I enter the vehicle and don't hear the constant clicking sound. Whola, the vehicle starts every time. I disconnect the battery cable when coming in over night. 1997 112,000 miles.
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I recently bought a 98 civic ex for my daily commute. I've had it for almost 3 months. Recently, it has started to stall occasionally when I come to a stop. I then have to put the car in park and turn the key to start it again. After that it seems to run fine. It has started to do this more and more frequentlyand I worry that eventually it just wont restart. I've also noticed that the idle is sometimes very low so that even when it doesn't stall it feels like it has.
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I have a 2002 civic. The key fob only opens or locks the passenger side doors but not the driver side doors. Worse still, the key does not work in the lock so I have to use the fob to open the passenger side and climb in to open my drivers door. Having said that the key won't open the door lock, it will do only occasionally. I might try it 20 times with no luck and on the next attempt it opens it as if there was never a problem in the first place... My priority is to get the fob to operate all of the doors. I have tried the simple things like changing the battery of the fob and resetting the key.
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I get a rub sound when I am only going about 5 miles an hour and usually when turning left. I sounds like it is coming from somewhere on the passenger side and near the back. It makes this sound only once in awhile. Sounds like a body rub kind of sound. I have newer tires and they look fine and my shocks appear to be ok. I don't see anything wedged up under there either. This car only has about 88,000 miles on it and is in nice condition best I can tell. It is a 2007 Honda ex sedan.
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My car spun on ice, did a 360 and hit the barrier rail of the bridge. The rear bumper was all scraped up and got pushed pushed out on the passenger side. I've replaced it but I've been hearing a thumping noise from the passenger side tire (not sure rear of front) and this is only noticeable on expressway with smooth asphalt and only under wet conditions. The alignment was done after the accident but after taking the car to several service locations they did not hear any noise (we were driving in wet conditions.)
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2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Limited--4.7 V8: when the car is turned off--there are sounds coming from the dash--passenger's side--like escaping air--like a whoopee cushion--maybe for one minute. Is this the AC system---or air bag or ???
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I have a 2005 Honda Civic that was making noise on the front passenger side wheel and what sounded like the front driver side strut clanging (bottoming out) when I hit a bump, sharp right turn heading down hill, or hit a pot hole (small or large). I brought it in to a mechanic to diagnose the issue. They told me I had a bad wheel bearing and also needed new struts. They quoted me a price on parts and labor that I thought was too high, so I checked a few other mechanics to make sure that I needed the work and try to get a better quote. All said the same work needed to be done, so I eventually had them repaired.
My car seems to ride better and I don't hear the noise from the front passenger side wheel anymore or the noise from the front driver side strut, however, there is now a clunking like sound coming from the front suspension (left and right sides). It sounds kind of like something might be loose. I can hear it over slight bumps, and when turning whether I'm going slow or even coming out of a parked spot.
Is there something else that may need repair after having all this other work done? Have I caused a "needed repair chain reaction" or something?
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I have an old 98 Lesabre, and it runs and drives great. When I first got it I had to do the Vacuum line mod on the programmer to get the HVAC to blow out the face vents. That was the best $1.60 and 30 min I spent on a car
That mod still works and was done about 1.5 years ago, the ENTIRE time i have owned the car the temp blinks when I start the car, but the HVAC has always worked fine so I paid no attention to it. That is until 3 weeks ago when I had to replace my intake manifold. I disconnected the battery without turning the system to "off". I have been doing a bunch of reading online, and it seems I may have thrown the system's sync off by doing this.
Right now my problem is this, colder air coming from the pass side then the driver’s side. When I start the car it will seem synched for a few seconds, then it will start blinking and both vents will go FULL COLD, eventually it brings the temp back up the d-side gets hotter than the p-side. I have done the following:
- gone through AT LEAST 50 on/off cycles
- Removed the 9c fuse to try to reset
- Pulled down the glove box door and watched both the upper and lower blend doors go through there whole range of movement (which they do)
- Tried to re-sync by pushing the temp full hot, then full cold a few times in a row.
Besides getting this scanned by a tech 2, which is my last resort, is there anything else I can do?
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So today I'm out running errands. Its hot and the ac is on. I notice water is coming out from underneath the dashboard on the passenger side. I pull the floor mat and water is everywhere. Soaked!! Ok so the ac water that's supposed to drip outside and underneath the car is now dripping inside the car. I pull off all the plastic crap, glove box to see if I can tell where its coming from. Not seeing it. Also some crap must have gotten wet because my check engine light is on along with a flashing vsr off light.
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Recently (last three months really), I've been noticing an oscillating squeaking noise coming from the passenger side of the dashboard on my '07 LS460. I've troubleshot the problem and have it isolated to coming on only when the A/C is turned on (recirculated or outside air- doesn't matter). When the A/C is off, the sound goes away.
No other squeaking noises at all coming from anywhere else on the car.
I have a sneaking suspicion it's related to the tensioner belt connected to the Air Conditioner, but I'm honestly not sure at all.
Might this be a more relatively simple belt issue? A/C is running pretty much all the time when the car is on- wouldn't be surprised at all if we've simply worn the belt through.
I found this link outlining a similar problem, but again- I'm not entirely sure I want to go the route of the full tensioner assembly replacement if it's likely just a belt: [URL] ....
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My girlfriend's 2002 Honda Civic. Whenever she and I make a turn in it, a clunking sound is heard and felt on the front passenger side in the area of the floorboard, and it seems to come from an area between the seat and the wheel well and seems to be getting slowly but surely/progressively worse/more noticeable as time passes. I checked underneath the car earlier today, and there aren't any observable leaks to report anywhere.
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I have a 2004 Chevy cavalier with 133,000 miles. For the last week I have been hearing a ticking noise - seems to be coming from inside the dash board on the passengers side (glove compartment). The ticking noise begins when the engine starts up and stops when the engine stops, so the noise is continuous while the engine is running. The car runs well, no loss in power, nothing out of the ordinary, with the exception of the noise. I opened the hood and listen - the sound seems to come from inside the firewall.
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I have a 99 B5 which my wife drives most of the time - it has just passed the 150k miles and owes me nothing. But it has recently developed an annoying clicking noise coming from the passenger's side somewhere around or behind the glovebox. I have emptied out the glovebox and tried turning off the climatronic and the stereo but cannot locate it.
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There's a click in my wife's expedition coming from around passenger side 3rd row when the AC is on. When we turn the temp down a little bit the clicking goes away. What this is?
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I have a '98 Accord. It's got some issues and I am in the process of buying a new vehicle. But need to have a driveable car for work in the meantime. I have a torn boot on the front passenger side. Front brakes are also pretty worn down, not mention the Cat converter is shot and rusted. I'm getting a very loud, grinding noise when I turn to the left. Very loud noise. Some noise when turning to the right but not nearly as loud. My mechanic looked at the car a week ago and told me too many problems to fix the car, get a new one. which I am but it's taking some time. I'm just wondering if you think the car is likely safe enough to continue to drive until I get the new car. It's the loud grinding noise that freaks me out.
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I've got a 2012 Hyundai Sonata LTD and have been loving it for the past year (bought it certified pre-owned last February). I've noticed, however, that there is a clicking coming from the passenger-side AC vent or general passenger-side dashboard area. It seems to be somewhat tied to whether I have the air recirculation (outside air) button turned on or not. I typically use my front defrost a lot, which, when enabled, shuts of the air recirculation button. This seems to encourage the clicking sound, whereas if I turn on the air recirculation, the clicking eventually goes away after the car warms up and after ~10 minutes.
From my internet research, it would seem that other types of cars have reported a similar issue and it's been attributed to either a bad actuator or something called recirculation failure. Here's the link to what seems to be a near identical problem for a different make, model, and brand of car [URL] ...
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Yesterday night I bought my first Prius--a brand new 2015 C2. All seemed perfectly fine till I was driving home from work this evening. I had the passenger window down and noticed a rhythmic clicking and clattering coming from that side anytime I drove past something to echo it back. This was going at about 25 mph in a residential area. It almost sounded like when you have some gravel stuck in the tire, except no gravel and it sounded more mechanical. It was very noticeable. No sound at all coming from the driver's side open window. I took it back out for a couple more drives to confirm that the sound was continuing.
When I drove it off the lot yesterday it had 40 miles on it--the dealer said someone had likely taken it home to show a family member, then brought it back. I truly don't remember hearing a sound like this when I test drove it, but the conditions were very different (other people in the car, window rolled up). I didn't notice this sound this morning, either.
The thing that is extra concerning to me is that on the way home tonight there was some roadwork where the pavement had been stripped from a section, then a large bump where the regular pavement resumed. I slowed down as much as traffic around me but still hit the bump much harder than I would have liked, especially for my brand new car. It was after that that I first noticed the rattling, a little ways down the road.
The car is making so many new-to-me sounds that I truly have no idea if this is just a normal sound or if I should be concerned. The tires look ok, I don't see anything obviously wrong when I look under the car.
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The other day, I changed my front brakes just the pads. Everything came out smooth but then later that day i started to notice a clicking noise coming from the passenger side brake I suppose. You can't hear it when you drive or when braking early but you start to hear it when the car slows down and your coming to a stop. Its a constant clicking noise within like 1 or 2 seconds of each other. Its not loud, but its very noticeable with music off. And not to mention, very annoying.
I'm about to take everything apart and reinstall everything to see whats up. BTW its a 2006 GS300 Front brakes. Finding a picture of the wheel off with rotors and whole brakes on. I think I might of put on a clip wrong.
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There is a clicking sound coming from the front passenger side of my dash. I have narrowed it down to being a problem with the Air Outlet Servo Sub Assembly. How should I go about correcting this dilemma? If I choose the option to waste another perfectly good weekend on taking apart my only means of transportation (except for my bicycle), how should I go about doing this to avoid creating anymore havic on what seems to be a perfectly good car?
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