Starting - Chevrolet - Tahoe :: 2001 - Clicking Noise Right Before When Engine Trying To Catch
Jan 15, 2011
I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe, and for the past couple of years, I have been having an incredibly frustrating issue with my car. When I go to turn the key, it sounds as if it is about to turn on (ie the engine is about to turn over and it sounds normal) then right before it catches, it will start clicking, the noise sounds like the battery is dead. When it first started happening, I called AAA, however by the time they reached me, the car had started again. Now when it occurs, I wait 10-15 minutes and it will start- every time. I have had it in to 4-5 different car repair shops, however no one can seem to figure out what it is. I have had the battery replaced, and several other things altered, etc, however nothing seems to fix the problem. I am not sure where to go from here, I was informed to check the fuel pump and/or filter yesterday- it happened twice on me yesterday as well.
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2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 ... When I first turn my car on in the morning (or after an extended period of time - i.e. the car has completely cooled down) it makes a clicking / ticking noise that appears to be coming from the engine area. It lasts approximately 10 - 12 seconds and then simply goes away. This happens consistently. I recently had it serviced end-to-end: belts, plugs, total tune-up etc.
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What is the embarrassing clickety sound my 2001 Tahoe makes when I accelerate with the AC on?
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Have a 1996 Chevy Tahoe (305) Engine having engine cranking problems. It makes a slight grinding noise when normally starting. But sometimes it the noise is loud and seems to lock or seize during cranking. I tried shimming it without success, the gear even stuck in the flywheel. I had the starter rebuilt when the bendix stopped engaging the flywheel. I bought this PU second hand and the flywheel cover had been removed as if this truck has had existing starter problems. Also the flywheel teeth look ok.
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I have a Chevy Tahoe 1999, Went to the store came out my Tahoe wouldn't start i had it towed home. My husband said the starter was clicking but wasn't getting enough power to turn the flywheel. We got a new starter put it on and it clicked just like it did when i tried to start it before. We took the new starter back and had the old one tested and it was ok so we put it back on and it still clicked like before. He said the flywheel was easy to turn, then he replaced the hot wire from the battery to the starter, now the starter don't even click.
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My wife owns a 2004 hyundai santa fe, and recently i replaced the belt and idle pulley, I've worked on a few cars in my life and understand the basics and some on how to work on a car.But this has me baffled, the other day i decided to take her car to work. She warned me it had a a slow turn over sometimes i told her okay and headed off to work, drove fine to work no start up issue, but then i went to lunch and it had a slow start like she said. Then in the afternoon started just fine for the drive home to work. I stopped at a gas station to put a little fuel in and the car wouldn't start, it would just release a small cloud of smoke from where the the starter was, so i said ah loose starter wire. That however isn't the case, pulled the plastic shield from the bottom off abd the heat shield off the starter just to find nothing was wrong with either instead its the wire above that running from the wiring harness to the motor, how to fix this issue? Ive attached a few photos
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I have a 2002 impala that has occasionally not started. The problem started a couple months ago, once it started getting cold here in the midwest. Every few weeks when I turned the key, nothing would happen. It only happened occasionally, and after waiting a bit it would start normally. I did some reading and suspected it was the anti theft locking the car down. Today I tried jumping the car just to be sure it wasn't the battery, and all of the electronics were very dim. I heard a rapid clicking noise from the dash that continued even after I removed the key. The headlights were rapidly flashing, although also very dim. This continued for about a minute before stopping. I tried letting the battery charge from the jump for about 10 minutes, no change.
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When I start my 2001 passat 1.8T 155,000+, my car shakes like it feels like it needs to catch a second before starting fully, and when it does fully start it gives a good kick but then stops, just curious of what it could be and what it could run me, but its not the battery I know that?
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My wife has a 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe with abut 100K. She did something and doesn't know what but now the car beeps anytime you put it in reverse. No big deal, it's just annoying. I've checked the book and can't find out to disable. How to disable this on a tahoe or know what to look for in the owner's manual.
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I have a 98 chevy tahoe and the truck seems to make a strange noise sometimes when applying the brakes. I can feel (sorta) the noise in the brake pedal. Is this something that needs a scan to find out where it's coming from?
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It happened as I was stopped at a traffic light. without warning it just revved up as though I punched the gas pedal, which I didn't. had my foot on the brakes but it still wanted to fly! I dumped it into park and it really howled! I shut off the engine, started it back up and everything was fine! what the heck caused this and what needs fixed?
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What fuse controls the engine compartment Light?
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My 99 Tahoe has started making a weird like clank noise when I shift into drive or reverse. It also has a light shake which was only if I took a sharp turn, but is becoming a little more common.
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From time to time, my Tahoe gives me the "Reduced Engine Power" error, and I lose acceleration capabilities and have to pull over. After a min or 2, I can go again, but the check engine light stays on. With no rhyme or reason, the light will be on or off on the next start up. The problem may or may not happen during a short ride or may happen quite often. I have replaced the Accelerator Pedal sensor, so that is not the problem, I'm assuming.
I've been told that it is the Throttle Body that needs to be replaced, but no mechanic can confirm. They just want to replace it and the pedal. I would really like to keep this truck for a couple more years. Other than this problem, the Tahoe has been pretty good to me. Here are the codes that have been read: P1125, 1516, 2120, 2125 ....
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I bought my 2005 Chevy Tahoe used in December 2010, with about 2200 engine hours and 54,000 miles. It's been a great car - I love it! In January 2012, when the engine had about 3000 hours, it reset to zero! I went to a dealer, they had no explanation. They contacted GM, who had no explanation either, other that to say it couldn't be done. Since I was left with no way to reset the hour log, I made a note of what I thought was the correct amount of hours. Last month, with about 350 hours showing, it reset again to zero!
I'm at a loss to figure this one out, and don't want to waste my time again with the dealer, or GM. Is it possible cold winter weather has anything to do with the on-board computer malfunctioning? Is it possible the odometer was tampered with, before I bought the car? It runs well, but the only thing I've had to deal with is the transmission, which went out two days before Christmas, at about 87,000 miles. $3500 later, we were back up and running.
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My 2000 jetta won't start. Lights, beeping, everything else happens when I put the key in, but nothing happens when I try to start it. I don't hear any noise coming from the engine, i.e. clicking, etc. I can push start it and it works fine.
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Wife's 2002 model, 104,000 miles on vehicle, but recently developed a tat-tat-tat noise when first turning the key. Sounds electrical. What may be causing the noise?
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I have a 2003 Tahoe that I love but is driving me crazy with a "Reduced Engine Power" message. I am driving along and suddenly it dings at me, the message center says "reduced engine power" and I am losing speed. It goes into a "limp mode" in which I cannot accelerate, it cannot pull itself up a hill, and the engine misses badly. I can pull over, shut it off for a couple of minutes and then start it up and run again just fine until it decides to do it again.
There seems to be no rhyme or reason, one day it did it 4 times w/n the first 20 miles, then ran 100 miles w/o doing it at all. I recently took it on a trip that normally takes me 1 1/2 hours, it took 2 1/4 hrs that day because I had to pull over so many times. I was having to stop every 3-4 miles by the time I got there. My usual mechanic has completely given up, told me to trade it. I have had it to another mechanic for over a month now, 3 times he has thought it was fixed, but it wasn't. One time, I didn't even make it the 5 miles to my house before it acted up again.
One other note on this: this past trip I made, I left early in the morning and my lights were flickering high/low. . . this went on for several miles. Finally my lights quit flickering, then I lost engine power, pulled over, shut it off. When I started it back up, the lights started flickering again. The cycle seemed to continue, once the lights would settle, the engine would lose power. I took it to a parts store and had the battery and alternator checked. They said both were fine. (Had never noticed the light thing before, but I can't think of a recent trip after dark.) How I can pass along to my mechanic?
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I just purchased an 05 cavalier and today a loud clicking noise started right down by the glove box. I have full a/c and heat. If I turn the climate control to recirculate the clicking stops. But now the orange engine light is on. I've heard it could be the blend door actuator from what I've read online. Would this cause the engine light to come on? The code reading from autozone was coolant leak/coolant low/thermostat something along those lines. But the engine light came on 3 hrs after the clicking started so I am thinking it's related.
Oh also (the clicking stops after the car warms up a bit)? I would love to just buy the part online and have a small place replace part. I cannot afford hundreds of dollars in labor. If that is the right part does the dash need to come out in an 05 Cavalier or can it be gotten to under the glove box?
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I have a 1982 Chevy C30 pickup with an ignition problem. When it's really cold out, 15 degrees or colder, it won't start. When I turn the key, it feels like I'm turning a piece of clay. There is NO cranking, clicking or any sound made. The accessories won't work either. The last time this happened, I heated the ignition tumbler with a heat gun and the truck started. It started one time after that. Then on a warm day it started once; then wouldn't restart. I turn the key and nothing. It had to be towed. I wondering if the problem is the ignition tumbler, where I put the key, or the ignition switch, which is located near the bottom of the steering column.
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2003 Chevy suburban, 115K miles, accelerating I hear a squeal/groan/clicking noise coming from right front of engine. Did not happen this winter, started again in spring. Loses power if stay on accelerator. If let off and then reapply, it will momentarily go away. Appears to be only when air conditioning on. Bad AC or just the pulley?
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