Starters :: Ford Taurus Slow Turning Over
Jun 23, 2012
1999 Ford Taurus V6 DOHC Battle Wagon. It will not start. It is barely turning over so I started with the battery. Battery is good so I then cleaned all connections to the starter with no change. Still turning over but only barely. Took the starter off and had it tested at O'Reilly's and the starter is also good according to them. I guess my next step would be to start replacing the wiring from battery to starter? After that I am not too sure on a direction to go. On a side note, my cousin did not think it was very funny when I told him that the title was already signed and that it was his problem now.
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Immediately after putting new tires on my '02 Taurus SES, steering is really hard at the pullout, or turning at slow speed just after startup. After several seconds, steering is back to normal. I did have the steering pump flushed out with new fluid several months ago, and fluid is up to level now.
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I have a 2006 Acura RSX with an auto transmission that is having problems starting. The electronics work (ie lights, stereo, auto-locks etc) and the engine starts to crank when the ignition is engaged, but it sputters out and doesn't turn all the way over even with a jump start. The battery tested positive and none of the fuses are blown, how this could be fixed?
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We have an 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis. It isn't driven very much -- only about 25,000 miles total. Lately it has been having problems when we try to start it. Sometimes it starts right up, and sometimes it needs a few tries. When it fails, we can hear the engine turning over, but don't get to ignition.
We drive this car a couple of times a month. Is it possible this issue is related to the infrequent use?
Could this be something more serious? What do we even ask the mechanic to look at?
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Battery was replaced about three weeks ago after noticing slow cranking start-ups. Prior to that, the most recent repair was to replace a faulty coil assembly and ignition wires about nine months ago. The faulty coil assembly caused the car to sputter and lose power.
Currently, after the car has been run for at least a half-hour, and after the engine has been off for a few minutes, 5 or so, the engine will barely crank or won't turn over at all on re-start. I found that after letting the car rest and cool for a little while, I can get it to start, but it cranks very slowly. Once started, the car runs fine. The car always starts fine and cranks over very strongly if the engine is cold.
I've had the charging system and alternator checked, and everything appears to be normal. I've not had any warning lights illuminate on the dash. Fluid levels are all normal. The engine runs fine and does not overheat. Battery connections are tight and wires look okay. What could be done to diagnose the problem?
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On Monday, I was driving my 03 Ford Taurus. I had my cruise set at 57mph, all the sudden I started slowing down. I pushed the gas to the floor to try speeding up, but I kept slowing down. The car never shut off. I still had all of the electronics and the motor was still running, had my power steering as well. I pulled over and shut the car off. I started it back up and continued down the road and it happened again. Same thing, slowed down and pressing the gas and no speed. This happened 5 times within 65 miles. I got to my destination and was there for about 15 minutes, when I made the return trip. On my way home, I didn't experience this issue at all. What the cause may be?
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This morning I was driving my 2000 Ford Taurus to work at about 45mph when it suddenly starts to slow down as I was pressing on the gas pedal. I pumped the gas pedal as it was slowing but still nothing. I pulled to the side of the road just as it was coming to a stop. I turned the car on (everything seemed fine) and all the lights came on and the engine started. I was in park with the car on and pressed the gas but the engine didn't rev. I turned the car on twice over the next twenty minutes or so as I waited for the tow truck.
About a half hour into this ordeal I turned the car on again and tried pressing the gas and this time the engine revved so I put the car in drive and drove it around the block. I eventually canceled the tow and drove the car home and to school (about six miles total or so, at speeds under 45mph). I recently filled up the tank and had car problems last week (the car now has a new battery and alternator) but up until this morning there was no issue. What it could be? The shop said it would be hard to diagnose unless they could recreate the issue...
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Our 2005 Ford Taurus makes a rhythmic clunk from the rear when you slow down. The rhythm seems to slow as you brake. The noise isn't there when you are cruising or accelerating, only when you slow down. We recently drove 2000 miles with a small trailer attached. Could that have anything to do with it?
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Okay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
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I have a Ford Taurus 2003 wagon. We bought it used in 2010. Initially we had the car checked out and only needed a transmission fluid flush because of a shift delay. We replaced the battery and oil changes for it on a regular basis. Last year, we had an issue where the engine would suddenly turn off while driving and then turn back on. The dealership said it was the synchronizer and replaced that. We also had then check out a burning scent and they said that it was from oil leaking from the engine.
I am not sure that they fixed what they said they did since it still smells and some times there is smoke or steam coming from under the hood on the right side near the windshield. A month later the car was still turning off while driving and the dealership said they didn't know why. We ended up taking it to Advanced auto parts and having the battery tested. The alternator needed to be replaced. We wasted a ton of money at the dealership... So mad about that and never going back there again. They clearly don't to a good job. We replaced the alternator.
So now, a few days ago, the abs and fuel lights came on while driving, and the radio also made a noise like an electrical surge type. ~10 minutes later I noticed smoke or steam coming from under the hood. What is going on with the car?
I am so anxious driving it since last year when the engine would turn off while driving. I have my baby in the backseat and I have already decided what to do if the engine catches fire. I want to get rid of this car and get a new/used one but my husband wants to keep it since it should be cheaper to fix then to get a new one. I don't want to spend a ton of money either, but I also want a car that will reliably drive us to work and daycare. Oh and of course the car works fine anytime when time my husband is driving it, but that is only on the weekends occasionally.
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70's Ford 4x4 truck. I'm getting a very noticeable --- but intermittent, doesn't happen every time -- metallic scraping sound when turning right at slow speeds. Coming from the rear of the vehicle. Like in neighborhood driving. No unusual sounds when going straight. For the past week the problem seems to have gone away, so I'm playing this one by ear. Hopefully whatever it was has gone away. But I'm ever the worrier.
when it happens, it sounds like if I dragged a big sheet of metal on the road behind the truck. I'm sort of suspicious this sound is from the rear limited-slip differential. Could it be the diff clutches are corroded? Coming loose from their moorings? A differential bearing on the fritz?
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I noticed that my ABS was engaging when I would slow down to a stop while turning left. I pulled the fuse for the ABS just to make sure that's what was causing the pulsating brake, and it was. Anyway, if it's an ABS sensor problem, would it be the front passenger side sensor if it's only happening when I turn left? Is there a way to test this. Would a scanner detect it? It hasn't been throwing a code or anything. Just the ABS engaging while braking and turning to the left when it shouldn't be.
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I'll start by saying that I've only had my car for a month ... 2002 taurus i have replaced the computer on it so i went on by giving it a full tune up . 3.0 v6 with 91,000 on it . so i noticed it yesterday when i turn on the heat or defrost for the windshield that the R.P.M drops from 1000 down to 500 or 600 R.P.M but only in park . i can put it in drive or reverse and it's fine. a/c compressor does engage and it works fine .
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I'll start by saying that I've only had it for a month ... 2002 taurus... I have replaced the computer on it so i went on by giving it a full tune up . 3.0 v6 with 91,000 on it . So I noticed it yesterday when I turn on the heat or defrost for the windshield that the RPM drops from 1000 down to 500 or 600 RPM but only in park . I can put it in drive or reverse and it's fine. AC compressor does engage and it works fine...
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I havent had my 2000 taurus too long.... Last week a knocking noise started. It usually happens when I am turning but there have been a few times it does it when I am braking. It doesn't happen right away - just after I've been driving for at least 15 minutes or so....
I got this looked at last weekend at by a mechanic and they drove it and didnt hear a thing and supposedly things underneath looked okay. I can tell that things ARE NOT OKAY. Also, since this knocking started, my alignment seems to have gotten off a bit. I may be a blonde but I've had enough problems with past cars that I usually know what I'm talking about!!!!
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6L w/automatic trans,no tunes,no mods. Fan doesn't speed up when ac is turned on. I checked connector at fan shroud and #25 10a fuse and wanted to see if there's anything else I can do or check before taking it to dealer. I haven't towed heavy since I noticed ac not cooling at idle but last time I did tow the fan ramped up on hills and stop and go. I'm in Texas so I must get this right asap. I heard of some with manual override so I would like to do that as well but also heard rumors the override can damage pcm. Any manual override?
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My fiance drives a 2006 Escapse XLT v6 AWD. It's really a great car.
She noticed an issue when she filled the fuel tank the last time. It took about 8 miles of driving for the gauge to read full after being filled from empty. She also told me there was a "whirring" noise when shutting off the car and turning it back on. I checked it out and found the fuel gauge is making a noise. Whenever you shut it off or turn it on and the needle moves there is a distinct whirring noise that sounds like dirty plastic gears meshing, which is what I'm assuming is the issue.
I've done a search and came up with 0 results. Can the cluster be disassembled and possibly just clean the gears?
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I've gotten it a couple of times lately while turning at slow speed. The first guess is always the CV joint/boot - but wouldn't that be multiple pops?
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So, I just noticed this happening about a month ago and it's been occurring more frequently. Whenever I'm turning (left or right) and moving at a very slow speed (1 - 5mph), I feel a binding and sometimes I hear a slipping sound (that's the best that I can describe it). When I hear this sound, it feels like the Touareg's gears or center differential is slipping. What it is? If so, was the dealer able to resolve it quickly?
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As the title states, I am getting a weird click from what seems to be both front and back when going over bumps or turning slow. Thinking it may be sway bar bushings or something like that, but not 100%... Its also not your typical blown CV boot click either, its more like something is flexing and hitting into something...
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When I turn my car to the left or right i hear a clicking sound. Usually happens when I am moving slow, like when backing into a driveway or parking spot. Could this be a tie rod, ball joint, or what? How can I be sure before just replacing parts? I need to have this fixed before I get my alignment, which has to happen before I get my rims.
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