Start - Gmc - Jimmy :: 1996 - Won't Start Even Replaced Fuel Injector?
Jul 27, 2011
I have a 96 GMC Jimmy that will not start..... I have replaced the spider fuel injector and now I get the right fuel pressure. I have random non regular spark that is very week. I have replaced the ignition coil, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, cam sensor, the ECM, and the ignition control module. The crank sensor checked out to be good. I do not know where else to check...
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1996 GMC Jimmy SLS. I've looked at the "starting issue" threads in this forum but none are quite the same as mine. When you initially try to start the Jimmy (cold or warm), it seems to just crank for 20-30 seconds before it even tries to fire. New plugs, cap, rotor, wires. Battery is 2 months old, and so is the alternator. What about the relays or starter. It's not an intermittent problem either. This happens EVERY time you start the vehicle. The jimmy sat for a good while before we bought it, but would that cause the starting issue? It seems to run fine after it starts, but hesitates (stumbles)a little coming up off idle when its warm.
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2006 6.0 king ranch 189k sct live wire Replaced 1357 injectors and when I crank truck it will crank and sputter for a brief second but will not fully start and continue cranking and doing this over and over. Tried starting for roughly 30 minutes would not budge. Tested icp and ficm both are good. Also replaced batteries, fuel filters, checked all relays and fuses still can't figure it out. Also truck is bulletproofed.
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i have a 1991 s10 2.5 liter that will not start. i have spark, and fuel to the injector but nothing from the injector. how do i determine if the injector is bad or something is not telling it to spray?
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why after 3 or 4 plus days, a 1996 ford crown Vic will not start. have replaced alternator, courtesy of the ford dealer.
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I was driving and my truck started have lack of power, could barely get going on hills, tons of blue smoke (smelled like diesel) real rough idle. I unplugged injectors and found #5 made no difference. I replaced it today and I can't get it to start. It'll get to 2000+ psi 48v ficm, low pressure oil registers, ficm says its in sync. It will crank and blow a lot of black like its half firing or something. It has even crank to, until it tries to fire. From what I've been reading could it be the ficm? That one circuit is fried?
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My car does not start (cranks only) after I clean the fuel injector and intake manifold.
so I check the spark with tester and it is fine.then I check the fuel pressure with tester and the pressure shoots to over 42 psi without starting (normal between 38 and 46 psi) and slowly drops to 10 psi. I install fuel injector (FI) with new o-ring and gasket and there is no leakage aroung them. the fuel pressure regulator is ok. I got one from junk yard and the test show the same.
I notice there is some gas inside TB and only way to leak the gas is the FI body valve. I took all FI out and notice #2 and #3 are wet on the FI nozzle tip and use small string to push air through and can see some fluid coming out from the nozzle tip.
I thought I clean it well and do not know if this can be fixed by more cleaning. the resistance is all the same at 12.6 ohms under room temp at night in north CA.
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I have a hard starting condition after warm up. It starts up fine when it is cold.After running diagnostics and coming up with no error codes, I noticed that I smell raw fuel after the car was warmed up and sitting for about 15 minutes. I believe this is the cause of the hard starting condition after warm up.
How do I test the fuel injector for leaking? I think it may be leaking fuel into the throttle body after sitting for a few minutes, causing a rich or flooded condition which makes it difficult to start after it has been warmed up.
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1991 Buick Regal, 3800 V6
Having a rough idle on a cold start. After some research and closer inspection of the vehicle, I'm quite certain I have at least one leaking injector that is flooding a cylinder and causing the car to misfire on a cold start. I'm also not at the gas mileage I should be at.
So I'm wondering, is fuel injector replacement as straightforward of a job as it looks? Any major issues I could run into in doing a replacement?
I'm planning on replacing all six injectors (I can get them for $50 each buying online with a discount code), but given that the vehicle is so old am I better off just replacing the faulty ones? I'm assuming pulling the spark plugs and seeing which cylinder is wet will tell me which I need to replace.
And one more question: Is there a way to depressurize the fuel system when I park the car for the night, thus preventing fuel (or most of it) from leaking into the engine until I get this fixed? I've read that just unscrewing the gas cap can depressurize the system.
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My 96 4wd 4.0 Auto has a consistent misfire in the #6 cylinder. I've change out the plugs and wires and am considering changing the fuel injector for that cylinder. Looking it over last night, got me wondering if there is a way to change out the fuel injector without removing the upper intake manifold and the entire fuel rail. As you all know, these things are a beast to work on when the engine is in place. So, is it possible? Inquiring minds want to know (and don't want to spend an entire weekend changing out on fuel injector if there is an easier way )
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My pickup is giving me trouble, replaced fuel pumpand filter, flashed computer, cam sensor seems to be fine...truck will run one day then will not start on another....1500.GMC year 2000.....5.3 litre motor auto trans 4x4... Thinking on replacing computer as a last ditch effort..when we hook the computer analyzer it shows no problems...
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Ok, I've replaced the fuel filter today and my truck still won't start. Checked fuses, and Fuel relay (19th slot). I've found the red fuel switch and it doesn't depress so I suspect it isn't tripped. I'm out of my league if I have a fuel pump problem.
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this car is a daily driver and ran very well it has 104,000 miles and well maintained. on a Friday night, it started to rain and my windows were down. my friend volunteered to roll them up and mistakenly left the key in the run position. I was unaware of this until Monday morning so the battery was completely drained. I removed the battery and charged it for about 12 hours until fully charged on a 3 amp charger.
The head lights were bright when I reinstalled the battery but I did not take a voltage reading although i believe it was charged up good.when I went to start the car it did nothing and the fuel pump is not running either. I removed the starter wire from the starter and with a remote starter jumped the starter.. it swirled over fine but no start with the key in run position . it has no fuel pressure and is not getting fire. this car is equipped with an immobilization unit for security.
Is it possible that this caused it to activate? my key also is equipped with a chip I was told by the (stealership) and I only have the one key with no fob to deactivate the security system. my owners manual say I can turn the key to the left in the driver's door to turn off the security also but it has no effect. it is the original key and is very old looking. I have exhausted every hunch I had to get this machine back on the road and I just know one of you tappet brothers is holding the solution to my problem.
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I replaced the fuel pressure sensor in my freestar...I drove it around for a minute then noticed a strong smell of gas. I stopped and then put the old sensor back in and now it won't start.
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Black Beauty finally gave up. Replaced battery, replaced fuel pump relay. Would only run with starter fluid sprayed into the air intake. She'll crank but not start. Here she sits at the dealership.
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I have a 1996 Lumina 3.1. For the last few years, every now and then I would turn on the key, all electrical systems, lights, windows, radio, etc. would work but it wouldn't turn over. If I waited about 4 minutes it would start perfectly and it wouldn't happen again for up to a month. Last week it did it and after I waited and tried it again it turned over once then everything went dead. A mechanic (friend) installed a new battery and it started. He took it to his shop and installed a new computer. Everything read fine, but now when you turn on the key it will turn over fine but not start. Leave the key on and wait about 2 minutes till you hear the fuel pump start and the engine will start fine. If you stop for a few minutes it will start but if you stop for more than 5 or 10 minutes you have to wait for the fuel pump to come on again.
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I have a 1996 Pontiac Trans Sport 3.4L (without Passkey anti-theft) which on occasion won't start after being parked. The fault only happens when the vehicle has been sitting, it does not die while being driven (so far). The engine cranks normally but does not fire. The peculiar and significant thing about the fault is that the fuel pump relay (driven directly by the PCM), chatters at about a 10 Hz rate. Instead of receiving a steady 12VDC to keep it energized, it is receiving a pulse stream from the PCM.
The first few times this occurred, I heard the relay "chattering " under the hood , and was able to start the van by unplugging the relay and shorting the connector terminals for the contacts together with a wire jumper ( these terminals connect "hot at all times" 12VDC from the PCM fuse (orange wire) through the relay contacts to the fuel pump +ve). The electric pump would run and I could start the engine easily. By the time I arrived at my destination, the fuel pump relay 'drive' would be normal and I could plug the relay back in and continue normal operation.
The last few times this problem occurred, the van would not fire -- no spark as long as the relay drive was pulsing. When it would finally go back to normal operation of the relay, the engine would start OK.
Last Spring in cold weather I had the van towed 2 blocks to a Pontiac dealer with this problem. The problem resolved before they inspected it; however after the Technician's inspection the Service Advisor said there was no fuel pressure at the test port and that the pump must be deffective (shorted), overloading the relay causing it to chatter. That diagnosis made no sense to me. They wanted to replace the fuel pump as the solution ($600). I got past the Service Advisor and asked the mechanic to show me the fuel pressure -- the car started on the hoist when I tried it, and fuel pressure was normal (>30psi). I left with just the relay changed, as they thought the original would have burned -up contacts from excessive current to the pump. (I cut it open later and found its' contacts to be perfect). While at the dealership I asked the S.A. if he knew of any TSBs, or other incidences of this problem; he said he had not heard of this problem before.
I had the same problem one week later, but not again all summer until this Fall's cold and wet weather. I had to have the vehicle towed home and it still wouldn't start the next day. As soon as I accessed the PCM behind the glove box and jiggled it the relay chattering stopped and car could start. However, later the same day, still in the driveway, the fault was back and no amount of jiggling or other manipulations had any effect. Later still I went out to test for spark, and the fault was gone. (Cold, wet weather all day).
Vibration seems to have little effect. I have checked the PCM connectors' security and pulled, twisted and wiggled the wires coming from it, as mentioned above, to no effect. I suspect the fault is inside the PCM and is thermally induced by cold weather. The next time it happens I will try a warm hair dryer on the aluminum housing of the PCM. I wonder if there is a fix for this (repair a cracked solder joint, etc.) other than replacing the PCM. I work in electronics, and will open the PCM up and inspect it before forking out for a new one.
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Intermittent fuel pump problems in '96 Dodge ram resulted in new fuel pump 50,000 miles ago. Happened again 100 miles ago, so another new fuel pump. Now to start car must turn the ignition on several times before going to the start position. It appears the latest new pump may have defective one way check valve, so the pressure is depleting after turn off. Any favorite brand of fuel pump for the Dodge "pump in the gas tank" arrangement? Or solutions such as installing an external pump to do the work of pumping the fuel?
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1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
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I have taken to mechanic- no codes, all reads well. have changed fuel filter, checked fuel pump, spark plugs, battery fairly new. after it rains, it cranks-engine shakes-wants to start but wont. Almost like gas or ignition will not kick in. if sunny, ok- This only happens after it rains..
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My husband recently bought a used '99 GMC Jimmy 4x4. Recently he has discovered that there is a problem cranking it. If the temperature dips below 40-45 degrees or if it is humid the Jimmy won't start. When the key is turned you can hear the starter trying to start it. It acts like a carborated vehicle flooding out. You can smell gas and if the hood is popped, and the air filter is removed you can see gas smoke coming out of the air filter location. This only happens when it won't crank. On warm or clear days, it cranks just fine and there is no gas smell or hesitation.
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