Stalling - Electrical-wiring :: 1992 Buick Century - Replaced Throttle Position Sensor Still Stalls Out
Aug 15, 2013
SO, my Buick has given the code for bad TPS, and it was replaced a little over a year ago...and now after the same symptoms, replaced again.. However, this time, right after replacing, it gave the code again, and still stalls out /doesn't want to stay running especially when put in gear. My regular mechanic also recently just put on a new catalytic converter and a new fuel pump and fuel filter. I'm at a loss, and desperately need my car back.
A little back history...about 3 years ago a 'friend' was to work on my car to install the thermostat and power washed the engine...which shortly after started having all kinds of electrical issues. Right after that, my mechanic had to install a coil, spark plugs, new ignition panel and the 1st tps.
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My 1992 Buick Century frequently shuts down when coming to a stop or slowing down to make a sharp corner. I'm always able to restart it. I thought it was a torque converter lockup problem, but my transmission specialist said the transmission is okay. Last month, after the car died completely, I had the crankshaft sensor and harmonic balancer replaced by Firestone. Could it be the same parts that malfunctioned? Or, could it be another issue?
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my old lady has a 2001 olds intrigue with the 3.5L in it. Sunday evening we replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and the Coolant Temp Sensor. Monday she was on her way back to Iowa and the tempature gauge spiked up to the Hot area. I looked it over and could not find anything wrong. I sent her on her way and she made it about a mile before it did it again. The car will spike up to the hot area but the motor shows no signs of over heating. I checked the temps with a heat gun while the car is idling and read out Thermostat housing-160, Rad-80, Rad hose-130, and coolant 170. I than ran the car up so it shows on the gauge its hot and than checked again, it than reads Thermostat housing-172, Rad-100, Rad hose-134, and coolant 184. If I am running it at 1500 rpms it will spike up but once i take it up to 2500 rpms it drops back down to normal on the gauge. I am lost for what it could be.
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2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I had a knock sensor code and replaced it. Then I had a code for the TPS and I replaced it with the new part today and after replacement the vehicle idles at 2000 RPM. what should I change?
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I have a 1992 Buick Century with a 2.4L 4-cylinder engine with 68,616 miles on it. It was running fine yesterday. Today I went to back up and I no longer have a reverse gear. I drove all the way to work in forward (10 miles) but get no reverse. What am I looking at here?
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I just had the crank sensor replaced in my 1992 Buick Century (3.3L V6) because of abrupt hesitation and failure to restart. Because I had the sensor replaced twice before (10 years ago & 6 years ago), I recognized the symptoms and had my mechanic replace it. After running some local errands, I left the car outside for 2 hours before putting it away in my garage. I cranked it but couldn't restart it. I took the transmission out of park and put it back into park and the car restarted. Could there be some kind of transmission-connected safety switch that's intermittent? My mechanic says it's highly unlikely for the ignition module or computer to be intermittent. Once an electronic circuit malfunctions, it stays inoperable. That's why he replaced the sensor.
Also, what this trouble code means: "26 Quad-driver sense voltage shows a low voltage when battery voltage should be present or if the sense voltage shows battery voltage when a low voltage should be present."
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I have a 92' Century w/107 K miles that has a medium rough idle. This is a summer use vehicle for me. I have done the normal maintenance on this motor w/ new plugs and a good Napa wire set. Any bad vacume lines that I can get at have been replaced including the vacume tree on top of the motor. Has anybody had coil issues or ground issues with this motor?
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I have a 1991 Buick century with 160,000 miles. It wasn't driven for about a year and about 8 months ago I changed the plugs, wires, and oil and it has run great since then...until yesterday. Now, every time I slow down to come to a stop (or below 20mph) the car jumps and jerks and acts like it is wanting to lock up and stalls. It starts back up put every time I put it in drive (just drive) it stalls again. I end up having to put it in neutral, rev the engine, then put it in drive real quick. Talking to my dad, who I got the car from, he told me it used to have this same problem and that is why he quit driving it. We have a couple of theories
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My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
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I need to wire up a trailer lighting connector for my 2000 Buick Century but I can't find the wiring run for it. Where would I find them to be able to tap into them?
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[URL] I even pulled the same P0170 code. And what I need to do before I spend a boatload of money and wind up sleeping in my car instead of driving it to work or lack therof is to start a troubleshooting list starting from where Sabot's update left off, i dont even know where the vacuum line is that he mentions and if i sprayed carb cleaner on it would i get a jump in engine RPM or a stall as a test?
What I have done: Cleaned MAF sensor, changed fuel filter.
What I have not done: Checked all vacuum lines, Tested fuel pressure, Tested for compression issues due to blown head gasket.
there is also a puffing noise coming from the exhaust side of the engine, im gonna grab a bottle of baby powder this afternoon and test for air leaks, i dont believe it is a misfire...
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I have a 96 Buick century that the headlights will dim during acceleration and stay dimmed till I let off the throttle. Or they will essentially blink bright and dim at highway speeds. The weird thing is, at idle, the lights are fine!
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The car is a 1994 Buick Century, 3.1L V6, ~ 80k miles. Four months ago she wouldn't start, so I got a new alternator and battery put in. A month later, while on a short road trip, the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree the whole drive home (ABS, airbag, check engine, battery) and the voltmeter bounced around from mid-high to red-zone high. Thinking it was a bad reman, the alternator was replaced again when we got home. A few weeks went by and all seemed to be going well with the new alternator until, after driving around the city for a while, the airbag light started blinking intermittently.
Accompanying the blinking, the battery gauge again was bouncing around. Eventually, when accelerating from a stop, the car stuttered when moving forward, the battery light flickered, and the ABS light stayed on. Worried that I'd burn up another alternator, I had a mechanic look at it before my next trip. He checked the alternator/battery loads and pulley and said that nothing looked wrong. On the next trip, the intermittent airbag light blinking and voltage fluctuation returned as well as a single episode of stuttering from a stop... these things all only seem to happen after at least an hour on the road.
TO RECAP: Voltmeter gauge steady sometimes, bouncy other times... but usually too high. Airbag light blinks intermittently (seems to happen only after car is warm). Sometimes (rarely) the car will jerk from a stop, at which point the ABS light stays on. No check engine lights. Battery and alternator are new. Same problems (voltmeter in red, warning lights) occurred with last alternator until it burnt up. It seems like a voltage regulation / alternator problem, but the same symptoms occurred with two different alternators (with two different internal voltage regulators). I suspect that there is some electrical problem (short?) that is causing the fluctuating voltage and the tendency for the car to burn up alternators so frequently. However, I don't know much of anything about cars. Does that sound right? If so, where do I even start?
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I recently acquired a 1992 Buick Park Ave. My problem is that she shakes as i slow down and stalls when I stop. Usually about 10 minutes or so of driving. It doesn't stall every time but less when i baby the brake (i think) Its getting worse quickly and I've changed the spark plug wires and that didn't work also the previous owner recently changed the Cam sensor yet I'm getting a code 41.
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I recently bought a 92 F250 and love it but the blinkers will not work. I have replaced both flashers and the multifunction switch. (the wipers had issues too that were fixed by the switch...) Now what? Im at a loss..
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My truck will fire while the starter is engaged ,but stalls when the key is in the run position. This is my plow truck and I don't want to go through the winter without it.
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I have a 70 Ford f250 with a messed up wiring harness. Truck will run only in start position. which wires are wrong.
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I have no left rear signal or brake lights. The right side works fine and both left/right tail lights work fine, just no left brake or signal. I checked for broken wires and can not find anything. 1992 Ford E50 7.5L.
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I was reading the car's settings using the Torque app and an OBDII bluetooth dongle and I realize that at WOT the ECU is only seeing 85% from the TPS. O know on some vehicles there is an actual procedure like turn the key forward, hold the gas pedal at WOT, turn the key all the way forward w/o starting while pulling the turn signal stalk down or something crazy like that to force the ECU to re-measure while you keep the gas pedal pinned to the floor. I know on other cars when it doesn't read a full 100% you miss out on a small amount of power and MPG so if it's an easy procedure with these cars I'd like to reset it. I did some searching but mostly came up with info on how to replace it and a few related subjects but noting on this specifically for this car specifically.
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Replacing the tps themselves? Is it something a newbie at diy car stuff can do? I'm getting codes P2016, P1295 and P161B, and I see no problem with the car except one thing, when the engine is cold the shift from P to D is rough. Is the tps causing this?
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2004 VW R32, No engine mods. I did have the vacuum line sealed off for the flapper mod for about 3 months but is is now back to normal.
I've got the MIL, ESP, and EPC lights on and scanning codes as follows:
Code-P0222
Definition:
- Throttle pedal position (TPP) sensor/switch "B"
- Circuit Low
Explanation:
- Open or short circuit condition
Probable Cause:
- Poor Electrical Connection
- Faulty TPP sensor
- Faulty throttle valve control module
I don't know much about the situation but I took it to my friends shop first where we replaced the Throttle body, intake, and MAF. Didn't fix the problem so I took it to my local VW dealership and the tech's exact words were.."the codes coming up as a throttle pedal sensor. Is there perhaps a sensor by the pedal that I could check?
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