Stalling - Chrysler :: 1999 Cirrus Would Randomly Stall When Driving Or While In Idle
Dec 22, 2015
I started having problems with my '99 Cirrus last month, it would randomly stall while driving or while in idle. With no check engine light or any other tell tale signs of a problem. I'm not entirely knowledgeable about how the entirety of the car's systems function, though I new I should check my fuel system. I wasn't getting any fuel to the engine whatsoever, so I replaced the fuel filter because when I got it off and looked at it it was clear it was bad. Then I put it all back together to try and run it and it continued to stall.
Thinking it must be the fuel pump at this point I dropped the fuel tank and replaced it. It ran for about 35 miles before the same problem started happening again. So I checked all the fuses, and relays and just to be safe replaced all the relays related to the fuel pump, and fuel system and i even replaced the auto shutdown relay. The car continued to have the same problem, so I did some research and found out it could be a dirty throttle body so I cleaned it even though it wasn't that dirty, and checked my air filter for how clean it was and it was clean. The car still continues to stall in idle and while driving.
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1997 6 cylinder Chrysler Cirrus 162,000 miles. My car will randomly and unpredictably go into limp mode. I suddenly find myself in second gear while my engine is revving at high speed (3000-5000 RPMs) in order to maintain velocity. The check engine light comes on immediately, but usually switches off after 2-3 days maximum, and typically less than that. If I pull over, and turn off the engine, it re-sets, allowing me to start the car, and continue my journey, shifting normally.
Additional pertinent information:
• it happens more often when the weather is warm
• it has happened while traveling down the highway at 65 mph (scary!)
• at times, the shift into second is so abrupt, it feels as though I have been rear-ended
• once, while in a traffic jam and moving at about 20 mph, I hit a pot hole and the engine started revving at 3000, with no change of gears
• a couple of times, rather than throwing me into second, it has seemed to throw me into neutral, with the familiar high revs, but absolutely no power with increased pressure on the gas pedal
• it is happening with increased frequency i.e. I have had to stop as many as six times during an 16 mile trip.
• Recurring computer codes: P0140, P0141, P0700, P0765, P1494
04/2011 replace right front cam sealFront engine mountReplace front valve cover gasket w/tube sealsFront bank spark plugs & wires (3 platinum plugs)Transmission flush
05/2011 cylinder #5 misfireReplace rear valve cover gasket & tube seals3 platinum plugs (leaky power steering pump fouled the plugs)
05/2011 recall work #C45 floor shifter ignition/park interlockPush rod trans- shifter
09/2012 transmission shift solenoid
10/2012 6 new plugs & wires Plenum gasketDistributor capEGR valve gasket
There has been other service work done during this time period, but (I think) I have included only that which may relate to the transmission. I am so frustrated, and my mechanic is stumped. He has referred me to either a transmission shop, or a Chrysler dealer. After hearing my account of the problems over the phone, the head mechanic at the dealership suggested that it’s time for me to get a new car.
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I am having a problem with my car stalling randomly. It happens when I am driving and it also happened when the car was idling in the driveway. I believe it to be an electrical problem as there are no lights on the dashboard when I try to turn it over, however after a few minutes it will start and run ok. At first I thought it was the fuel pump, but now I'm not so sure. There is no pattern to when it happens either. When driving the car will start sputtering then stall. I'll let it sit for a minute or so, then it starts again. What can be causing this?
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My car died while driving on the highway. The mechanic said it was the distributor, but also that the fuel pump wasn't working. When he replaced the distributor, the car works, no fuel pump problem. Does the fuel pump shut off when the engine dies or is this going to be another problem down the road? 2000 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi...
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Had a tune-up and a mechanic also looked at the accelerator pedalfor some reason, but no report regarding the fuel injection or regulatory components which I suppose should have signaled an issue when the computer diagnostic was run if I am to understand the mechanic's position.
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I have a 2005 f250 5.4 auto trans and the past few days the truck has been stalling randomly while driving and some times not restarting right away. Now today it stalled a few times. once while driving, once when i sitting in it trying to load up obd2 scanner. I got it home and it started running rough for 2 mins then it would stall out. It did that 3 or 4 times and now it stalled while sitting in drive way and wont start at all. it wont crank. no fuel pump noise any more.
The odometer goes out and just has a bunch of flat lines. I can not get scanner to connect anymore. it never had any codes before when it was stalling. When I could get scanner to work it had 42psi of fuel pressure. battery and starter are good. all the fuses are good and I can hear the pcm relay clicking when I turn the key and swapping relays does nothing. I can hear a very rapid clicking noise from the throttle body area. What that could be? is the pcm fried? what would cause it to fry? how can i test pcm? if get used pcm does dealer have to program it?
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2000 Chrysler Cirrus 2.5 V6, 84,300 miles. Twice, after sitting out a day or 2 in wet weather, it was very, very difficult to start. Each time, it didn't fire at all, but then did finally start after 4 or 5 tries and ran fine.
Tried spraying water everywhere under the hood, while it was running, but got no miss or other symptom. After then sitting a day or 2 in the garage, it started and ran fine the first 2-3 miles, then started stumbling/missing and stalled at a light. It restarted and continued to stumble/miss before running fine after another 1-3 miles. Changed the distributor cap and repeated the same test, getting same result. Also checked fuel pressure--it's on the money, building specified pressure and holding as expected. No check engine light or other symptom and no relevant codes.
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I have a '97 Chrysler Cirrus that won't start on it's own without being jump started. Once jump started it runs fine, but then the next time you go to start it the battery is drained again. My highly uneducated guess is that I need to replace the alternator. Am I on the right track? I replaced the battery and the problem persisted.
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I have a 97 Chrysler Cirrus, and have been driving it for about 5 months. The other day, as I was driving, the speedometer stopped working. It did that one time before, but started back working. However, this time, it still is not working and I have no idea how fast/slow I am going. Often, my car has little glitches where you have to lock/unlock the door a certain way or it does not work right. Everybody jokes that my car has OCD! Also, once you crank the car, you have to turn the key back halfway or certain things don't work- like the clock, wipers, turn signals, etc. I don't know if this is related to the speedometer situation or not. The last time the speedometer stopped working, I had the AC on and a cassette tape in the deck; I was trying to hit the rewind button, but kind of accidentally pushed between fast-forward and rewind, and that is when the speedometer stopped working. I am not sure this is related. Do you know if my car has a sensor or a cable for the speedometer? Is this something that can be easily and inexpensively fixed?
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I have a 1997 Cirrus. The ABS light came on about 2 weeks ago -- this is after i drive about 30 yards. The brakes seem to be operation ok and when the light does come on there is no bell or chime sounds to indicate something is wrong. ALSO, the RPM gauge just started to not work. Occasionally it may operate correctly but most of the time it just sits on zero. What the fault or faults are?
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I own a cirrus 2000 which lately have been giving me trouble. I took it to a mechanic for tune up and ended up having a lot of issues. At the moment I am having a lot of rattle or hard driving. The car shakes alot and recently I took it for a diagnostic and the result was P0303 and P0305 and vacuum leak. What causes this problem and how can I get it fixed?
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I have a 1998 Chrysler Concorde with 67,600K. The engine is starting to stall shortly after driving a few miles with no warning other than the engine light coming on. I can put the car in neutral and it will start right up and run just fine. The engine temperature is fine.
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My 98 Cirrus (V6 automatic) is not starting. The battery is working fine and it lights up everything...the wipers, headlight, the turn signals etc.... But when I turn on the ignition...nothing. I hear a mild thud followed by a brief hissing sound when I turn the key from the 1 position to the 2 position (referring to a 0-1-2-ignition key positions)...like "thuh...sssssss." It seems it comes from the underside of the car. Then when I turn from the second key position to start the engine, I get no response at all. I tried putting the gear in park / N...but no difference.
The weird thing is, approx 15 min before I attempted to start the car, I had to drive the car across the parking lot. It ran fine at that time. Could it be a fried starter motor?
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I have a Honda Civic Hybrid 2005 that I drive fairly regularly. I keep up with all the maintenance never had a problem... That is until last year. In the heat wave of Northeast 2012, the car started stalling after long drives. It only happened in mid to late august when temperatures started reaching the 90's. In the fall and winter the problem went away. I took it to the dealer in around October and they could not reproduce at first then later came back to tell me that it was the IACV valve. It promptly went away for the entirety of the winter and has now returned in june. As far as I can tell it only happens in the heat when you are idle after driving. It appears that the RPM's go to low (400<) and the thing stalls... How did you fix it? Can I do it myself? Where the hell is this IACV maybe I can clean it out or something?
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I have a Volvo 940 GLE (the second one of this kind I own) Car dies while driving, randomly, with check engine light coming on for a split second and then stalling. Feels as if the engine gets no fuel all of a sudden. Starts up again after 20sec-2,3 minutes, which is EXTREMELY annoying on the open road. Sometimes never happens for days, sometimes happens three times on a short drive.
Also, the car (purchased used) only holds about 7 gallons and has always idled low (runs rich), even though my mechanic couldn’t find anything unusual with the tank itself.
Engine codes that show up after the car stalls:
On socket 6: 214 (Perm. Magnet Generator), 144 (Fuel system load signal)
On socket 2: 221 (Lambda operation), 121 (mass airflow sensor), 131 (Ignition RPM sensor)
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When I drive the idle surges up and down and stalls when i slow down.
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I have a 2002 passat. It is a 1.8T. I have a stock turbo, it has a full aftermarket front mount hooked up. It also has a blow off valve. OK my issue is that I believe it runs too rich. When I drive the idle will drop and the car will stall out. It has its good days and bad days. What can I do to make this not happen? Would I have to have a recirculate the air flow again? Should I have everything stock again? Would anything else stop this happening? As well as how much PSI does this car stock suss posed to push? I have a boost meter that only reads max 5 psi. Should it be more? I am new to VW and brought the car off a friend.
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My ex drives our kid around Maui in a 1990 740 GLE (non turbo) and it's been stalling at the most inconvenient places and not starting for say, 20-30 minutes (then it seems to run fine, at least for another 15-20min. Our savant mechanic with an inherent drive to sleuth out problems is stumped as to why this intermittent stalling is going on. This seems to be happening when it is warmed up, first did it the after "acting funny" in 4th of July bumper to bumper traffic over in Lahaina, when it got to it's destination, it crapped out in the driveway.
Then, it stalled coming home the next day (fortunately right by beach park), a hot day, so I went out to get here a tow. Got rope on, it starts! Take rope off, realize I killed my battery in my Subie Outback while I was fiddling around with the 740, so she pulls it around to jump the Subaru, and it craps out again. So, we get someone else to jump Subie, I turn around to tow her and we go about a mile, tow rope snaps after crest of hill, but, 740 starts up and makes it back to Pa'ia (about 12 miles from that point).
Next day, mechanic looks at it, starts fine. No problem is reproduced, so hard to diagnose. Tonight, it stalled out again and started right back up a couple times during the day, then really stalled out turning onto the busy Hana Hwy from Baldwin Beach, thought I was going to tow her again, but 20 min later, it starts back up. So, for the second night in a row, I follow her home, but tonight it stalls out when making tight turn uphill to get to her neighborhood. So, I manage to tow her up and over to her place. (Accidentally took off front bumper when hook slipped, but I got it back on). And, of course, it starts right up.
Some background:
-fuel pump relay has been tested and is working.
-a couple weeks ago two of the injectors were replaced (or fixed, not sure) after we thought it was really going south (oil in plug cylinder, power loss).
-spark plugs replaced at same time injector issue was being assessed.
-fuel pump and filter underneath were replaced last year. (could it be other fuel pump inside tank?)
Every time I turn around this thing is stalling!
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I have a 1990 Alfa spider. It has a blip at idle. Originally it was much worse. Idle would drop to 500 then pop up to 1200 the back down, back up etc. Engine would sometimes stall while driving. This happened as I would take my foot off the gas coming to a stop. I replaced the first large air duct between the mass air flow gauge and the air intake chamber(cracked on underside). Worked but still had blip which was then unpredictable. I cleaned the air flow gauge and the constant idle actuator with air flow cleaner. This worked more but I still have the blip during engine warmup. Idles fine at start up, blips for a while, then stops bliping as engine nears running temperature. What should I do next?
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How to go about fixing my 1987 AMC eagle. I recently just purchased the service manual and am trying to figure out what I should repair first. I noticed a few weeks ago my car wouldn't idle in the cold.After bringing it to the shop multiple times it still does not run right. In fact, it seems to have gotten worse and has even died while going around 45 mph. Once it does die I find it very difficult to start. I have noticed some bad smells while trying to start it again sometimes gas..sometimes almost a burning rubber smell. (The belts are still in tact) Once it starts again it acts much like it had gotten flooded.
The motor seems to be fine and sounds good when running at proper temp. Recently, it will even die when the engine is all warmed up.Often when I get back in the car after driving it (while engine is still warm) I can turn it over almost instantaneously it doesn't necessarily sound good though. I noticed before all of this began that it would putter when going down a steep hill (or letting off of gas). Do I need to rebuild the carburetor ? Could it be as simple as a bad pcv valve? I have already put in 600+ into fixing this and no results. I am pretty convinced it some sort of fuel issue. I am also concerned the choke might be sticking and needs adjusting.
I brought it into the shop and they tightened the timing belt and secured some loose battery cables. They also said I needed to replace the battery which I then did. This did nothing to improve the how well my car ran. I brought it back and they replaced the distributor cap and adjusted the timing which apparently was way off. This did improve the performance of the vehicle but did not stop it from dying.
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'97 Taurus GL Wagon 197k: Some of this stuff has been going on for some time now (several months ... maybe even a year).
1.) Driving Itself:
Car seems to drive itself on my way home from work which is a long, flat road in the 45-55 mph speed range. Once I get into this range, I can take my foot off the gas pedal and the car pretty much maintains speed until I get to an upgrade. I've even noticed times when I'm not pressing the pedal but the car is slightly speeding up to the point where I have to keep tapping the brake to keep from getting too close to the car in front of me.
2.) Stalling/High Idle:
Sometimes when I come to a less than smooth stop at a light - say, a yellow light that quickly turns red and I have to stop quicker than I'd want, the car will stall out. This has only happened a couple of times in the last 6 months, but it had never done this at all up to this point, so it's a new phenomena. Otherwise, the idle is usually at 600 rpm (except recently I've been seeing high idles of 2000 rpm every so often, which is really weird!!). Also, it seems like if I park the car on an incline, the engine will turn over many more times trying to "catch" and start - and the whole start-up sequence just feels weak - like it's not getting enough gas.
3.) Tach Bouncing:
This one's got me the most concerned because I think it's the most serious (and potentially the most costly to fix). I completely transfused the tranny fluid a few months ago as a possible solution, by the way, so the fluid (Dexron Mercon IV) is fresh. At about 1500 rpm on the tach, the tach sometimes starts bouncing up and down on the scale and I can feel a metallic engagement/disengagement cycle. If I get above or below this area on the tach, however, no problem. Also, taking off from a standstill -even though I accelerate very slowly and smoothly because I KNOW the tranny is "soft" and will 'slip and slap' if I don't - I'm recently starting to feel a very very brief grinding-like slippage feeling that does not hinder acceleration much at all, but feels very unsettling. This is a new feeling and it only happens every now and then (so far).
You're gonna say the tranny's on its way out, right?
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