Stalling :: 2005 Chevrolet Trailblazer Sometimes Stalls At Red Light
Mar 13, 2015
I recently bought a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer LS EXT 4.2l 6cyl with about 129k miles on it. The vehicle is excellent condition and has no leaks on the engine or transmission. I took it for a test drive before buying for about 20min and no issues with it shift or rough idling.
After having the SUV for about a week, I noticed that it has a slight rough idle at red lights and gets a little worse when the AC is on. Twice now in the past week the SUV begins to sputter at the red light and then shuts off. It doesn't do this every time and I have noticed it happens more when the fuel gauge is in between the quarter tank E line. My father in-law is having a similar issue with his 2003 Trailblazer, same engine and make and model.
I should also mention that no check engine light comes on or leave an ERR code.
Throttle body needs to be cleaned: We have done this on my father in-laws and didn't fix the issue.
Replaced the spark plugs: didn't solve the issue
Read that it could possibly be the APPS sensor under the gas pedal: Haven't replaced this yet
Tighten or replace gas cap: Have done this, didn't fix
Have the idle reprogrammed: Have not done yet.
Could possibly be a fuel pump issue.
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2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
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Trailblazer 2008. This has happened 6 or 8 times. When fuel tank is 1/4 full or less, decelerating downhill from 50 mph to make a right-hand turn, the engine stalls as I reach the turn. Of course I lose power steering and brakes.
If I stop in that downhill position, the fuel gauge reads ZERO but the Low Fuel light is not showing. Turning the key to restart does not restart the engine but if I roll to a flat piece of road or to an uphill position, the engine starts immediately on turning the key. The fuel gauge continues to show ZERO until I turn off the ignition completely and restart. Then the fuel gauge immediately returns to indicate 1/4 full.
No warning lights of any kind show on the dash. There is no question of the gauge showing a false 1/4 indication when the tank is actually empty, since I can drive for 30 miles after the incident while the gauge slowly drops lower until I fill up again with gas.
SOMETHING tells the engine it has no gas so it stops. No stutter or indication of fuel starvation. Simply an engine shut-off.
I tried to reproduce the effect immediately after it had happened by turning the car round and retracing the route, but it did not happen a second time at that location, but it did repeat a few hours later at another intersection.
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I have a 2005 v-6 and when I first start my car, its makes a real high pitch whining sound that will last for about 10 sec. before it starts to whine down.Then after that, its ok. It will not make any noise after that when I start it unless it sits for any length of time (6 to 8 hrs.) What might be the problem and If Its something I could fix myself?
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2005 Chevy Trailblazer. Whenever the temperature goes below freezing, the 4x4 selector switch does not work. After the car warms up (10 min), I need to turn it off and then restart it in order for the switch to work. I tried changing the selctor switch, that did not work. Is there some sort of solenoid or actuator that is freezing up?
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I have a 2005 chevy trailblazer that vibrates. Gets worse when air conditioner is on. I've put new tires, new front end alignment, new spark plugs, changed my harmonic balancer. My motor mounts are fine. My engine light is not on so i cannot figure it out.
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We own a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer, 8 cyl, 150K miles. Since July 11, the transmission has been slipping into neutral, usually when slowing down. This happens anywhere, and usually in slow (so far) traffic. My husband has been able to get the car to drive either in D3, or has been able to get it back into Drive, and the car just drives off like nothing happened. This usually takes a few minutes of turning it off and on, and shifting gears. Today he drove it in AWD, and it was fine (so far). He normally drives it in 4WD. They have been unable to duplicate this problem and, because there aren't any codes, cannot tell us what's going on. Needless to say, I've had it.
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Make: Chevy Model: Cobalt LS Year: 2005 Mileage: 120000
So I'm having this problem with my engine stalling at low RPM. The RPM goes to 0 and the engine shuts off.
This only happens when traveling at low speeds (e.g. slowly accelerating from a stop, braking, moving in stop and go traffic)
This NEVER happens when I'm traveling above 10 mph (e.g. if I'm coasting at 40 and let my foot off the gas, the RPM can go to 500 RPM but it will never stall in this case).
After the stall, I can always put the car in park, turn the ignition and it will turn back on again.
I have not noticed any electrical problems that occur when this happens (the radio stays on during the stall and the lights don't dim).
My car was part of that Chevy ignition switch recall, but I took it to the dealership which (hopefully) repaired it.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer LS/LT 4.2 liter 2wd. I have been trying to get it smoged, but can't clear the code. P0171 - Lean Bank 1.
I've been having a parts throwing contest with it, but it has been winning and my wallet is losing.
I have changed the air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, changed both O2 sensors, changed the secondary air valve and relay. I've done the carb cleaner spray test around the intake and vacuum lines, with no spikes in RPM.
Most recent try was a couple bottles of Techron concentrate with premium chevron gas.(still waiting to see if the code hits again)
Next steps are checking the intake bolts(to see if they are torqued) and intake gaskets, check for exhaust leaks at the exhaust manifold, and checking the MAP sensor.
Freeze frame data from the most recent hit on the code is below.
***Fuel system 1 - CL***Fuel system 2 - NA***Calc Load(%) - 30.2***ECT(deg c) - 48***STFT B1(%) - 3.9***LTFT B1(%) - 22.7***MAP(kPa) - 33***Eng RPM - 809***Veh speed(km/h) - 0***Spark Adv (deg) - 10.5***IAT(deg c) - 20***MAF (G/s) - 5.82***TPS(%) - 15.3***Air status - NA.
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I have been battling this for some time. The check engine light comes after a period of time from reset. I have changed the thermostat, temp sensor, coolant flush and added per MFG.
I am down to clutch fan. The temp gauge sits right at 210.
From what I can tell is the check engine light comes on because the engine reaches operating temp to SLOWLY. Im guessing because the clutch fan is spinning to early in the game.
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3 mechanics can't find what is wrong but when I come to a stop sign or light my car stalls, not every time but a lot. Also, seems to happen more in cold or wet weather. So every time I stop and idle I have to quick put it into park.
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2000 Dodge Dakota (144K miles)just performed tune up (spark plugs, oil change, pvc, air filter, battery). Before and After tune up I am experiencing stalling at light after going over multiple speed bumps.
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My 06 trailblazer started having issues when the weather was below 30 degrees at night. The following morning when I start it, it starts up and idles for about 5 to 10 seconds and then shuts off. Turn the key again and nothing, just dashboard lights come on. Wait a few minutes and try again.. Fires up, shuts off. If it's above 30 degrees but less then 45 to 50 outside I can use a lighter and hear up the key, put it back in the ignition and fire it up. Sometimes it takes 3 or 3 tries of reheating the key but then it will stay running.
As long as I run the heat and keep the inside warm it stays running, if the inside gets cold it will shut off again while your driving. If it's below 30 degrees outside the key trick won't work no matter how many times you try. If the temperature outside is above 50 it will fire up and drive all day without any hesitation. My husband replaced the ignition switch, alternator and battery and none worked. It's now been at the shop for 2 weeks and still can't get it figured out. The shop has tried heating up just the computer while it's out in the cold and it fires up and stays running but if he leaves the doors open and the inside gets cold it shuts off again.
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My 2005 V8 starting intermittant stalling when stopped for a light/ when cruising at 40 MPH; the car restarts, runs for 30 seconds and then conks out. Had the car towed to selling dealing (3000 miles since end of April, 05) and now waiting for a diagnosis. Dealer claims they have never seen this problem before.
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05 Nissan Altima CVT 91k was running great until last week, it stalled while sitting at a traffic light, restarted the engine and ran fine but check engine sign lit up. Today at 60-70 mph engine hesitated once but was noticable, and took 3 cranks to get it to start after re-fuelling. Plugs were replaced at 55k, air filter is clean and was new 4 months ago anyway. Autozone read P0335 and P0725 something about a crankshaft and engine timing sensors?
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I changed my plugs recently in my 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer 4.2l I6 with the coil on plug setup, and now it is misfiring and hesitating when I hit the gas. All the spark plugs have the proper gap and torqued down properly. I tried tightening down the ignition coils and on one I snapped the bolt. Of course my truck is staying parked until I replace the part which I have to order online. The only thing I can think of as far as the misfiring is not having a proper seat with the coils, my question is, how to get a better seating or if there are any other possible issues I could have over looked at all?
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I have a 2008 trailblazer that the ac/heater doesn't always come on. When it does come on it wont stop blowing until the battery dies.
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The air conditioning in my 2002 Chevy Trailblazer works but never gets really cold. What is the best course of action to get it working better? A do it yourself kit or an auto repair shop?
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I have a 2002 trailblazer that will start fine in the morning and after it sits for an hour or two, but once i start it and run it for over ten minutes and i shut it off when i try to re-start it, it will crank but won't start. the dealer cleaned the throttle body and injectors, check the fuel pump for presure and it was fine,and they got no error codes?????? I've read that in can be the ignition switch??
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2012 Trailblazer 4x4. Got up this morning to go to work, no reverse gear. I pushed it out & drove to work (15 miles). Got to work & reverse works fine now. Drove home & parked. An hour later I go out & again, no reverse. What's going on?
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What are symptons of a "bad" drive shaft? Just curious because during a recent trip to the dealership for an oil change a mechanic told me I had one(I had mentioned I heard a noise that seemed to speed up and slow down as I drove-kind of a whirring noise). He arrived at that diagnosis by pushing down on the hood with enough force to make the vehicle(2002 Chevy Trail Blazer w/4wd) bounce up and down - there was a clunking noise. I haven't taken it in to have it looked at more closely, mainly because I am afraid of the cost. What's involved in replacing a drive shaft? What's the cost? If it is really "bad" will it break suddenly and cause an accident?
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