Sebring - Chrysler - Engines :: 2005 - Repeatedly Chugs / Recover While Driving
Feb 12, 2011
Check engine light comes on, car starts "chugging", recovers, chugs, recovers. So we limp to our destination. Check engine light goes off after car stands overnight. Repeat after driving car again. Mechanic replaced a 4" square "switch" somewhere "hot" last time. Said heat makes it go bad. Can't find anything 4" square under the hood. Mechanic says this part goes out all the time on this model and year.
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I have the above mentioned 2005 Sebring Convertible (2.7L V6, Touring) and the AC will work occasionally, but when it is hot and humid, it is sure to blow hot. First up was to check the system pressure and top off if needed - not the problem. Also blew the bugs and junk from the radiator fins. The wires and electrical connections look good at a glance. Turning the car off and on again doesn't work. Why would the darn thing work part time and take days off when we need it most?
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I've run into a problem while doing brakes on my friends 2005 Sebring. I can't seem to get the brake caliper off. There is a little rubber boot with a plastic cap that is where the bolts that hold the calipers in place are. How to get the bolts out to remove the caliper. In fact, it doesn't seem like there are any traditional bolt heads in the plastic cover.
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2000 Chrysler Sebring Convt quit while driving. Tow truck drive and a mechanic at scene of breakdown felt itt seemed like it wasn't getting gas. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, 2 sets of plugs ans it won't start and when it did it ran rough and then fouled out new set of plugs. Seemed like too much fuel going to cylinder.
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My oil light comes on when I stop but goes off when I'm driving. I check the oil level and it was fine. What would cause this? It's a 2001 sebring 2.7L
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I have a 98 Sebring Convertible 2.5L V6 that stalls after 10 minutes of driving at 30mph or even at highway speeds (ouch), but it seems only if the car has been sitting parked for 5 days will the stall occur. If I drive it daily/every other day, she seems to run just fine. Somewhere in between 2 and 5 days, there is sometimes a surge at that distance, but not a complete stall. The stall has been a very specific distance that if I let the car sit for 5 days, I can essentially pull over in anticipation of the stall. When the car stalls, the dash gauges all go to 0 and lose all power steering, but headlights stay on. Otherwise, there's been no noticeable loss of power, rough idle or anything else to indicate a problem. There are no codes on the computer. The stall happens once. I can pull over and immediately restart my car and be on my way without experiencing another problem until I let the car sit for 5 days again.
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I just bought a 2005 Chrysler Sebring sedan 2 weeks ago, has 94,000miles on it. Had no problems with anything until 6 days after purchasing the car. I just got on the highway & was about a mile onto the highway & I was already up to speed 65mph & my whole car just starts jerking (bucking like a horse) & I let off the gas & it'd stop. I'd give it gas again & it would start to jerk(buck) again; I had to get to work so I drove it for the couple miles I had left to get to work.
As I got onto the off ramp I noticed my car didn't jerk/buck like it was at the higher speed. After work I drove back home & on the highway without any problems. I also didn't have any warning lights come on while it was jerking/bucking. (Before this incident, I had drove to my moms, which is 1hr & 45min away, & back with no problems). I took it to a local mechanic & they found nothing wrong, & they test drove it & checked all the fluids/filters/spark plugs. I did need new front break pads & rotors so I had them change those.
Four days later my car did it again.. the jerking/bucking. But this time it was at a low speed & I noticed a ding(like the kind of ding your car makes if you don't have your seat belt on), but again I saw no warning lights come on. I kept driving & was almost to get onto the highway & was about 20mph & my car started to jerk/buck again. I thought it might be nothing so I kept driving to get onto the highway. I turned onto the highway onramp & started going 20-25mph & my car started to jerk/buck like a horse & not let me accelerate any faster.
So I pulled onto the onramp shoulder & turned my car off then back on again & let it sit for about 5 minutes & got on the highway & it was like my car had magically been fixed. I got up to speed (65mph) just fine with no jerking/bucking. Again this time none of my warning lights came on & I didn't have any smoke coming out the back end. I of course immediately went strait home, but had not signs of the jerking/bucking. My car also when I start it, all of my dash warning lights come on like they normally would whenever you start up your car, so I know they all work.
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I have a Chrysler Sebring 2005Engine cuts out at 2500 spurts stutters can't go above 35 mph...But still runs... No cruise available will not come on.. Engine light on... Which I guess from what I read is normal In "limp mode" Got it home.. Shut it off.. Starts back up.. I'm thinking cam/crank shaft sensor? Both of those are new.. And an ECM all from a prior problem.. Or fuel pump.?? Not enough pressure to keep up with demand..
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A couple of weeks ago, with the car turned off, keys out of the ignition - about every thirteen seconds you could hear the air injection pump coming on, running for a couple of seconds and then turning off. The next day the car battery was dead (no surprise) so we charged it up and took it to the shop (AAA) . They told us that it was a faulty MAP sensor and didn't give us a price quote to fix it, just an invoice/diagnostic bill. But they did unplug the air injection pump so that the battery wouldn't keep getting drained.
We drove the car home and called them the next day to get an estimate for the repair and they said that they misdiagnosed the problem and that it was actually a MAF sensor that was causing the air injection pump to come on when the car was turned off and that it would cost around 500 dollars for the part and labor. Too steep so we decided to hold off on the repair. Understanding our reluctance to go through with the repair, they recommended that we plug the air injection pump back in and still drive the car but to make sure that we unhook the battery at night/when the car would be sitting for many hours without being started.
Here's where it gets a little confusing (or at least for me). I did take AAA's advice and went ahead and plugged the air injection pump back in and for the last couple of weeks it's been fine. No issues with the battery being drained whatsoever/no air injection pump coming on with the car turned off. But today the air injection pump started doing its thing again.The check engine light was on so I hooked my code reader up and pulled the following codes:
PO128 (thermostat coolant temp below regulating temp)
PO491 (secondary air injection system (Bank 1)
PO2431 (secondary air intake system FLW/Perf B1
Does all this point to a faulty MAF sensor?
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At idle temperature is above middle. Upper radiator hose, which is connected to the thermostat is hot. Lower radiator hose that feeds back to the engine is cold. Radiator fan will not stop running if the temp guage is at middle to needle above middle. When running the temperature reading is normal at 30 mi/hr (middle to just below middle). Temperature will also go down if at high rpm idle, about 2,500 RPM.
New thermostat replaced last week. Water pump replaced less than one year ago. Upper radiator and lower radiator hoses are pressurized when running and off.
I suspect the thermostat was installed incorrectly. Pressurized hoses mean excess air in the cooling circuit/system. If so, does it mean I have to bleed out the air? How do you bleed out the air on a cooling circuit of a car, I thought the reservoir tank already does that naturally? I think the normal range for the temp guage should be 1/3 of the whole range of the guage, right?
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My 2005 2.7L 6 cylinder Sebring with 100800 miles that was running fine just started jerking on me last week. It runs fine untill I get it up to 2750RPMs. Its like its getting gas, then not getting gas and jerks forward all in less than a second and then again, and again and again, until I drop the RPMs back down. Any clue on what I should be looking for?
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I have a 2004 Sebring my check engine light is on and the RMP's are really high while Im driving. What could be going on?
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I drive a 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible with about 130,000 miles on it.
I was driving down the highway in early November when the check engine light came on my car. I took it to Aamco who did some diagnosis and replaced a solenoid assembly in the transmission. The light went off and I was on my way. I never got the exact code.
About a month after that, the light came on again. This time, I got a low end code reader and scanned it myself. I got a "P0700" code, which I've read is a generic code that the transmission system sends to the computer or something. So I used my reader to erase it. However, the light came on 2 days later while I was driving down the highway at about 70 MPH.
So I went to an auto parts store to get a more detailed scan with a better tool. This one came up "P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit".
This feels weird, because the solenoid assembly was just replaced a month ago (and is still under warranty).
The car seems to drive okay. I don't notice any actual problems in shifting. The tachometer seemed to get up to about 3000 RPM on the highway. But I've seen practically new cars do that. The last time I had serious transmission problem it would rev up to about 5000 or 6000 RPM on the highway and still only getting up to about 40 MPH. That was 3 years ago and at the time I had a fairly expensive transmission repair (which included a new torque converter).
But like I said, the car seems to be driving okay. I don't drive much. Maybe 100 miles a week? And even that is mostly optional in town driving. I'm not looking to keep this car for more than another 20,000 to 25,000 miles though for the time being I cannot afford a new one.
What are the possible causes here? What are the consequences of ignoring this? Like I said, it's still driving fine and as the old saying goes "if it's not broke, don't fix it".
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image.jpeg3024x4032 2.6 MB
I was driving down the road for about 20 minutes. When I saw steam coming out. I was a block away from home so I thought I'd make it before anything bad happened. The light turned green and I hit the gas and a few seconds after that something popped. I continued driving and the engine screeched and I pulled into my driveway. I jumped out and opened the hood and there was coolant everywhere. Like covering the engine and the underside of the hood.
2002 Chrysler sebring...
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I have a 2005 Chrysler Sebring. In December the timing belt failed while I was driving down the road. I had the dealership I purchased the car from replace the timing belt as well as the water pump while they were at it. Ever since I have had and issue with it vibrating at idle. At first it was making a whining noise as well. I took it back and they told me that they had installed the belt too tight. Afterwards I still had an idle issue although the vibration was a little different. I also could distinctly hear the belt hitting the casing a few times.
I took it back again and they stated that the belt had been put on too loose. So now they have adjusted the belt again and it I am no longer having the whining or belt hitting the casing. But I still have an idle issue. It has changed again and is kind of a pulsing vibration. I can feel it in the brake pedal when I am at stops. I seem to hear the pulsing while driving as well but this may be from my new tires as well.
During this whole readjustment process they have not mentioned actually checking the timing. Just the belt tension itself. When I first reported the idle issue after they put the timing belt and water pump on they told me that it could not be related to timing and that it had to be an ignition issue. But I asked a work associate who used to work as a mechanic and he stated that it would be a timing issue.
I am going to contact the dealership and ask them to check the timing belt again. I never had this idle issue before the new timing belt.
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It's a 2005 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4 DOHC. A couple weeks ago I tried to use the wipers and nothing happened - at all. The next day the gauges inside the car went hay wire, started flashing on and off. Turned out the car needed a new battery and alternator. Replaced both and the car has been perfectly fine - except for the wipers. I checked the wiper fuse and it wasn't blown so I pulled the cowl, unplugged the motor, turned the key on, turned the wiper switch to full speed and then tested for voltage at the plug and got almost 12 volts when testing several terminal combinations.
I thought for sure I had it figured out so went ahead and bought a remanufactured wiper motor but nothing happened when I plugged it in. I thought maybe since I didn't mount it it wasn't grounded so went ahead and did that and still nothing. Thinking maybe it was defective I returned it and went to a different auto parts store and bought another one, hooked it up and got the same results. So then I tested all nine relays in the relay control center and they all passed. So now I'm thinking the only thing left to test is the wiper switch. Am I correct?
And also I'd love to bench test the original motor just to verify that it works but don't know which terminals to connect to. I've searched the internet with two different browsers and came up with nothing. The motor in question is a Bosch 05-02-14 41. And then underneath it has 0390 241 7411 12V 058 written on it. The terminals are labeled: 31b, 31, 53 and 53b. And since the OE replacement motor for this car is a Cardone 40-3026, which terminals to use to bench test that one, I could then figure out which terminals to use on the Bosch.
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I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring with 116,000 miles and over the past month the engine has shutoff as I am driving and once I park turn the key off and turn on it has started to run again. This has happened about four times and each time it has been difficult starting it after the car has stalled. The most recent time this happened when I went to restart the car, a grinding noise became apparent. The last few times that I have started the car the grinding noise would be heard only to ultimately fade away in about 15 seconds. The check engine light came on and went to get the code and it came back suggesting a problem with the camshaft position sensor, but I don't fee the noise is related to that.
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After driving 2 hrs on the highway, my 2008 Kia Rio chugs and spits out dark smoke. Last month, shortly after this happened, while exiting the highway, the car lost power completely. I was out of town when this happened. The mechanic couldn't find anything wrong. He did a transmission flush and replaced the crank sensor. It is running again, but the chugging persists after driving 2 hrs on the highway! I am scared of being stranded again. I also think the car is burning oil, as it often is low, and it's not leaking, as far as I can see.
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After almost a year of fruitless trips to my local service center of a national used car dealer, I am still having a problem with an in-cabin whistle. This is the problem: There is a whistle inside the cabin of the car when:
1) The AC compressor is on,
2) The car is under slight acceleration, and
3) The engine is running at one of the following RPM ranges: 1500-1800 RPM, 2500 RPM, 3000 RPM.
It will happen at any speed: pulling out of a parking space, or running down the interstate. On a long trip, the whistle will occur every 45-60 seconds while on cruise control, as the car slightly accelerates to recover speed.
I have read that it is likely the AC Expansion Valve (two other posts on CarTalk), but my question is Why the dependence on the engine RPMs? I can make the car whistle continuously if I run the car at 2,500 RPM in 5th gear on the interstate. At 2,400 RPM or 2,600 RPM, however, the whistle disappears.The used car dealer can reproduce the problem on the road but not in the shop.
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92 lebarron conv. 4 cyld. non turbo
New cap, rotor, and plugs
Misses on 3 and 4.
When pull plug wires engine doesn't change. When pull 1 or 2 it dies. When put in gear it chugs and dies.
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I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4L dohc and automatic transmission with 115k miles. I recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced. Shop left the front 2 engine mounting bolts off and the rear one loose. Picked up car after business hours drove it that evening and kept hearing a strange metallic squeak.Returned it to the shop the next morning and as i was driving it began to smoke and stall with the temp gauge pegged. They had also left a hose to the heater core disconnected. Could the engine not being mounted to the chassis and/ or the overheating have damaged the transmission.
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