Sebring - Chrysler :: Won't Start - Headlights / Power Windows And Doors Work But No Noise From Engine
Oct 18, 2012
My 2002 Sebring won't start. Here's what happens:
Turn the key in the ignition. Engine makes no noise at all. It's sorta like when the battery died 2 months ago, except this time the power windows and doors work, the headlights and interior lights work, though oddly, the radio doesn't. The radio, FYI, is not the one that came with the car. I bought it back in 2010 after the cassette deck on the original broke and I needed something with an Auxilary connector to connect my Ipod to. I had it professionally installed.
So the car doesn't start. The engine doesn't make any noise. The headlights do come on. The dashboard lights that normally come on when you try to start it up (the check engine light, the airbag light etc., also do not come on at any point. I don't recall any particular clicking sounds when I turn the ignition. I do remember hearing these clicking noises (sort of a quick one time click for each key turn) when the car wouldn't start due to battery/alternator issues two months ago.
So I did a bit of research, and I think it's either the starter solenoid or the ignition switch. Am I far off base?
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I recently bought an 02 Chrysler sebring (4 cyl) When cold, it takes about 5-10 secs of cranking for engine to start. Is that normal?
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Engine oil has been changed and spark plugs changed. The engine is still making rattling/clicking noise. I checked with a mechanic and he indicated that engine needs to be repaired. Didn't say exactly what needs to be done and stated it would cost about $2200 for parts and labor. Why the engine keeps rattling and making the noise? Oh, before plugs were changed, the engine was shutting off at times when in idle mode.
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It could just be in my head, but I swear that my headlights got a little brighter when I hit the accelerator. The car just came out of the shop on Friday, after the alternator and battery were replaced. I don't recall it doing this before then. Is this... normal for a car that's just had the alternator replaced?
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I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring with 116,000 miles and over the past month the engine has shutoff as I am driving and once I park turn the key off and turn on it has started to run again. This has happened about four times and each time it has been difficult starting it after the car has stalled. The most recent time this happened when I went to restart the car, a grinding noise became apparent. The last few times that I have started the car the grinding noise would be heard only to ultimately fade away in about 15 seconds. The check engine light came on and went to get the code and it came back suggesting a problem with the camshaft position sensor, but I don't fee the noise is related to that.
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The turn signals/hazard flasher on my 99 Sebring Jxi stopped working a couple of weeks ago. When I use the signal lever or press the hazard flasher switch, you don't hear any click of the flasher relay, and the lights (front and rear, and on the dash) don't light up at all.
So far, I have:
* Checked the fuse
* Replaced the flasher
* Replaced the turn signal switch
* Replaced the flasher AGAIN (mechanic says that if there was a problem with the turn signal switch, it can burn out the flasher)
* Checked the fuse AGAIN, and even replaced it (even though it's the same fuse for the wiper/washer, and that's still working)
I asked my mechanic about it, and he said that a bad ground can also cause problems. The big question is: where do I begin to look?
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Last weekend we had our first warm weather up here in the Finger Lakes. My girlfriend wanted to be able to put down the top on her 2005 PT Cruiser convertible, but for a few months now the power windows and power top have not been working. She was going to take it to the shop, but I said, it may just be a fuse. I looked up the owners manual online, then drove the car to an auto parts shop and replaced the circuit breaker in the fusebox under the steering column, because it controls the power windows. The two passenger side windows started working but not the others. So I bought a fuse tester and tested all the fuses in the dashboard fusebox. They were all fine.
I drove the car some more, and couldn't figure out why the other windows wouldn't work. At one point I stopped but forgot to turn the engine off. I pulled some of the fuses out and plugged them back in, one by one. When I pulled one of them out, the engine stopped. I thought "uh-oh," then turned the ignition key to off and replaced the fuse. When I started the car again the engine light was on. I drove home (about 12 miles). I looked up stuff about the engine light on line and learned that after three trips, if everything is okay, the engine light will go out. That is exactly what happened. So I thought everything was okay except that I hadn't solved the window problem.
Two or three days later, my girlfriend got in the car to go to work in the morning. The car started but the engine light was on, and as she backed up out of her driveway the engine stopped. It wouldn't start again. The starter would just make a ratchety sound. We both figured my experiment with the fuses must have done something. I took the car (by tow truck) to a mechanic, and he didn't see how the fuses could be the problem. It turned out that the starter was bad and had burned out the battery. So I paid to have the starter replaced and a new battery put in. But when we picked the car up, he said what I'd done had nothing to do with the problem. He said the starter had probably been bad for some time, and it was just a coincidence that the car broke down a couple of days after I fiddled with the fuses. Now I'm convinced he's right, and my girlfriend is just convinced that he's wrong.
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I have a 2008 Sebring convertible that has starting issues. Sometimes when I turn the key to start, it does nothing (no noises, maybe a small click very rarely). If I take the key out and put it back in, it may start. Usually, I have to turn the power on, move the gears, and try again. Sometimes, it will start immediately, or I may have to do this procedure several times. It has been taken into the Chrysler dealer twice. They said it was not the switch or alternator and replaced the battery that wouldn't keep a charge. It was a 5-yr battery with 3 years of use. I was told to drive more! I shouldn't have to charge the battery every day. Several diagnostic tests were performed with no results. It still did this twice after the battery was replaced. Could it be cables?
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2008 Chrysler Sebring V6 hardtop convertible ... Intermittent no crank / no start condition – when turning key to start position, either you get nothing as if there is no battery connected and or a slight click as if the solenoid was trying to engage. The pattern can be nothing, nothing, nothing, click, click, nothing, startup or any combination of clicks or nothing, always resulting with a startup. Sometimes it will only be 3-4 attempts, other times 15-20. This occurs anywhere from every 15-20 starts to driving 2,000 miles from NH to FL without one failure.Completely random occurrence – no pattern can be seen – has been ongoing since September 2015 to now March 2016.
I have tried moving the shift lever and the steering wheel while it occurs, no change.Facts – battery was replaced 2-3 years agoAfter the first occurrence I yanked the battery, cleaned the terminals as well as the terminals under the hood. Over the next couple of months brought it to the dealer who could find no codes and of course it did not fail while they had it so they did nothing. In December I appealed to the service manager to replace the starter as I thought is sounded like a bad spot on the armature. He did so and also had the WIN module replaced. No issues until I was in FL weeks later. Here the dealer has replaced the PTC and TIPM modules and installed a redundant ground wire. The problem is still occurring. I’m down to under 400 miles on my 100k bumper to bumper warranty?
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I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring that broke down. Unfortunately it ran out of oil, and I was told that the car has 2 sensors that detected the lack of oil and shut down the engine. A local auto repair shop replaced the sensors. I paid the bill and began to drive the car home but I only got 20 miles away when the engine blew. My question is, if the the shop told me the car was fixed and then the engine blew, aren't they somehow liable for this?
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My frend has a 89 Sebring that won't start all the dash light come on but turn the key and it doesn't do a thing....
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I have 2004 chrysler sebring and lately when I'm at a light/stop sign the rpm gauge fluctuates between 1000 and 500 and wants to stall. I've been told to change the spark plugs and wires, cleaned the throttle body, and put in a new air filter. What else I should do?
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My 2004 Chrysler Sebring with 128K miles is making a loud whirring noise when I accelerate. It does not happen when I break, coast or am idle. I live in a city and potholes are a way of life. I got four new tires in November and had the alignment checked and fixed at the time. What it could be?
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My friend's 04 Sebring (6cyl) is overheating. After start up, almost immediately the water bubbles in the radiator and heat builds. He has replaced the radiator, thermostat, water pump, and even rebuilt the heads - still the overheating issue. What may be the problem and how to correct?
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I have a Chrysler Sebring 2005Engine cuts out at 2500 spurts stutters can't go above 35 mph...But still runs... No cruise available will not come on.. Engine light on... Which I guess from what I read is normal In "limp mode" Got it home.. Shut it off.. Starts back up.. I'm thinking cam/crank shaft sensor? Both of those are new.. And an ECM all from a prior problem.. Or fuel pump.?? Not enough pressure to keep up with demand..
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A couple of months ago my daughter's Sebring engine began shutting off immediately after starting. We brought the car to my usually reliable mechanic. They couldn't find anything wrong. The problem became more frequent (every 2 to 3 starts) and we brought it back to my mechanic who determined it was the car's computer system. $1700 later the car is ready to be picked up, my daughter gets it after the shop is closed, and it wouldn't start! She left it there, got a ride, and, one week later the Sebring is still at the mechanic's. They told us it starts every time for them and they don't see any problem. After researching on the Internet I thought it might have something to do with the immobilizer but they told me that tested fine. I'm at a loss over what to do.
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I have a 2004 Sebring my check engine light is on and the RMP's are really high while Im driving. What could be going on?
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When it is hot out and the interior of the car gets really hot these things do not work: the electric windows will not work, the turn signals will not work, the display on the air conditioner does not work the blower on the air will not work but the air will come out of the defroster. All the dash lights come on abs, trac on trac off. After the car sits in the shade for at least an hour all these things will work.
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About a week or two ago, when driving home, my battery light flicked on while at a stop light. Also, as the light wen t green and I accelerated away, I noticed a kind of 'whine' from the engine, like a turbine spinning up. By the time I got home it was fine again and the light out, and has been until today, when it happened again...I noticed that it happens if I have the AC on and I'm at a stop. If I turn off the AC when waiting at traffic lights, that seems to eliminate the battery light, but I still here the whine.
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Earlier today i noticed a loop hanging under my car. When i removed the item it turned out to be my AC/Alternator belt. Thinking it was bad i went ahead and got a new one. Prepared for a hard battle i find that the part slips on easily. now i can not get the belt tight at all it had about an inch or 2 of slack. I do not have a repair manual and i do not have the money for one. I can not find a diagram for my specific engine. It is a 2001 Chrysler Sebring with a Mitsubishi 3.0L 24 Valve Engine. What am I doing wrong? I need this fixed to go to work tomorrow.
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I drive a 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible with about 130,000 miles on it.
I was driving down the highway in early November when the check engine light came on my car. I took it to Aamco who did some diagnosis and replaced a solenoid assembly in the transmission. The light went off and I was on my way. I never got the exact code.
About a month after that, the light came on again. This time, I got a low end code reader and scanned it myself. I got a "P0700" code, which I've read is a generic code that the transmission system sends to the computer or something. So I used my reader to erase it. However, the light came on 2 days later while I was driving down the highway at about 70 MPH.
So I went to an auto parts store to get a more detailed scan with a better tool. This one came up "P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit".
This feels weird, because the solenoid assembly was just replaced a month ago (and is still under warranty).
The car seems to drive okay. I don't notice any actual problems in shifting. The tachometer seemed to get up to about 3000 RPM on the highway. But I've seen practically new cars do that. The last time I had serious transmission problem it would rev up to about 5000 or 6000 RPM on the highway and still only getting up to about 40 MPH. That was 3 years ago and at the time I had a fairly expensive transmission repair (which included a new torque converter).
But like I said, the car seems to be driving okay. I don't drive much. Maybe 100 miles a week? And even that is mostly optional in town driving. I'm not looking to keep this car for more than another 20,000 to 25,000 miles though for the time being I cannot afford a new one.
What are the possible causes here? What are the consequences of ignoring this? Like I said, it's still driving fine and as the old saying goes "if it's not broke, don't fix it".
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