Sebring - Chrysler :: Rear Window Defroster Tab Comes Unglued
Jan 30, 2011
I've a got a 2006 sebring convertible. I replaced the rear window defrost tab 2 years ago & it has come un-stuck again. The dealership has tried adhering it 3X and after the 24 hour cure time, as soon as I turn on the defroster, the tab comes off the window. Dealership is telling me to replace the ENTIRE rear window!
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I've gone over every square inch of the rear seats, from both inside and from the trunk, and can't figure out how to fold the back seats down... Usually, there is some kind of latch that you pull, but all I find are baby seat restraints. And from the trunk, I can't find anything. Do these seats fold down at all?
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So the rear defroster tab has popped off the window. I purchased this kit from O'Reillys but when I clipped the wire back onto the tab it popped the tab right back off. I even waited 48 hours instead of 24 so it had plenty of time to set, even with the cooler temperatures. Okay, so I forgot about it until I took the stroller out and noticed the trim laying in the back of the X... but still, plenty of time to bond well. I'm thinking of calling a glass shop & seeing what they'll charge to reattach.
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i have prius 2004 yesterday the rear defroster stopped and not working while the key on steering wheel and the yallow light indicator works very well and mirror defroster also working well, this case it become yesterday but before that it was working as usual.
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I'm trying to find the fuse for my rear window defroster. The manual doesn't show it. The fuse panel under the dash on the drivers side doesn't have it marked and the local dealer can't tell me where it is either. They want me to bring it in, of course! Exactly where this fuse is located?
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I own a 2008 Elantra
So for a while now I have noticed that I often have a great deal of static on my radio during my ride to work. I was stumped because it only happened occasionally and affected every channel, AM and FM. Today I discovered what was changing to cause the static. Whenever I have the rear window defroster on, there is static on the radio. Turning the rear defroster off, stops the static immediately. I have checked all other electric devices in conjunction with the radio, and it is only caused by the defroster. My understanding is that the antenna is built into the rear window, so the cause and effect seems obvious.
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My radio has great FM reception except when I turn on the rear wndow defroster. When I do, the radio sounds faint and crackly as though I were listening to a very distant station. As soon as I turn off the defroster, the reception comes back to normal. This is on a '09 Sonata limited - this did not happen on my previous '08 Azera and '06 Sonata LX...
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2005 Excursion..... When the switch is pushed, the relay clicks. The light on the switch does NOT come on.
I have switched relays for testing. The fuse is good. The truck has heated mirrors. Are they related to the rear glass issue?
Bought this in June. No winter use yet. Is a freezing temperature required for operation?
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2003 ford excursion xlt, 4x4, v10, auto.
My rear window defroster does not work. I have no power to the switch. on the reply I do have power to terminal 30 on the relay. If I use a jumper wire between 30 and 87 it works. I think the problem is terminal 86 should have power when thever key is in run position but it doesn't. I have the factory wiring diagram book but am at a loss. It seems to me it is more of a mechanical connection inside the junction box but there are other components on the circuit that work.
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A couple of days ago I noticed that one of the elements in the upper rear window defogger/defroster isn't working. It's the fifth one from the bottom I believe. All the other elements on the top and bottom seem to be working correctly. Is there a way to correct this without taking it to the dealer?
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Is it normal for the rear defroster to only defrost the middle of the window. The top and bottom don't defrost. Does this have to do with the antenna?
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2011 F350 with the rear window defroster not working on the slider window, just the glass that slides.
I had them look at when it was in for other warranty work and the dealership says it is not covered by the ESP. I looked up the ESP and it states that it covers heated back glass(electrical only). The dealership says it is considered glass and it isn't covered. If it was the outer sides of the back window it wouldn't bother me, but it is the center piece.
I had it looked at a while back when the truck was in for different warranty work and they supposedly fixed it, it was never fixed but I just thought I would get it fixed next time I was in there instead of just going in for that. Last time I was there I was under the 60K mile warranty and it is covered under that, but not the ESP supposedly. Bad dealership or just live with it?
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Recently disconnected the battery, now rear window switch flashes whenever the door is opened and the hvac switches will not work for around 30 seconds, how to recalibrate the door/hvac system...
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I'd like to disable my rear window defroster but keep my heated mirrors. Reason being I don't won't my rear window to explode when I turn it on. I have a 2011 bought a couple of months ago. Could I pull the fuse and still have the mirrors on? I rarely use the back window as I use to side mirrors. Drive a 18 wheeler for a living.
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This my first toyota camry and noticed rear window defroster to take a long time to defrost morning mist from rear window. At 5 mins idle i start to see the defrost lines is this normal?? In my 14 accord rear window would be completely defrosted in 5 mins.
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My rear defroster on my sliding glass window doesn't work all the time. I make sure the window is completely closed. It sometimes comes on and other times it doesn't. Sometimes it comes on and immediately shuts off. The dealership says I will need a new window. The truck is 7 months out of warranty. I think a $52,000 truck should have a rear defroster that works a heck of a lot longer than 43 months, especially when it has only been used 3 times since I bought it. Is this a problem that any of you have experienced with you F-150's ? I love my truck and will live with the rear defroster not working before I replace it. I just feel that Ford should have better quality than that.
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I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4L dohc and automatic transmission with 115k miles. I recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced. Shop left the front 2 engine mounting bolts off and the rear one loose. Picked up car after business hours drove it that evening and kept hearing a strange metallic squeak.Returned it to the shop the next morning and as i was driving it began to smoke and stall with the temp gauge pegged. They had also left a hose to the heater core disconnected. Could the engine not being mounted to the chassis and/ or the overheating have damaged the transmission.
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Got a bit of a problem with my car. Earlier this week, I got in and noticed there was heavy condensation on the inside of the windshield of my 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible. The windows had been rolled up and the top up of course. I see this kind of condensation happen on the outside a lot in the mornings. You know, dew settling and all that. If I wait around until later in the day, it evaporates on its own.
Anyway, this time it was on the INSIDE. I wiped it clean easily enough and was on my way.
Today I noticed that my heater wasn't working. The temperature gauge goes up to about 1/3 of the way, so I know the car is warming up. I'm not sure if it normally goes up that high; I don't usually pay much attention to the temperature gauge.
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I have an '06 Sebring convertible, 2.7l, V-6, 58,000 miles. When stopped with A/C on, car tends to surge. When I put in neutral, surging stops. Also, I sometimes get a "thump" (with both sound and feel) like I've been rear-ended, but have not. Dealer did tranny serivce and replaced all plugs and 2 coils which they said were "arcing". Did not fix problem. What would be wrong with A/C so as to cause this?
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2000 Chrysler Sebring Convt quit while driving. Tow truck drive and a mechanic at scene of breakdown felt itt seemed like it wasn't getting gas. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, 2 sets of plugs ans it won't start and when it did it ran rough and then fouled out new set of plugs. Seemed like too much fuel going to cylinder.
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My oil light comes on when I stop but goes off when I'm driving. I check the oil level and it was fine. What would cause this? It's a 2001 sebring 2.7L
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