Sebring - Chrysler :: Intermittent No Crank Or Start Condition
Mar 14, 2016
2008 Chrysler Sebring V6 hardtop convertible ... Intermittent no crank / no start condition – when turning key to start position, either you get nothing as if there is no battery connected and or a slight click as if the solenoid was trying to engage. The pattern can be nothing, nothing, nothing, click, click, nothing, startup or any combination of clicks or nothing, always resulting with a startup. Sometimes it will only be 3-4 attempts, other times 15-20. This occurs anywhere from every 15-20 starts to driving 2,000 miles from NH to FL without one failure.Completely random occurrence – no pattern can be seen – has been ongoing since September 2015 to now March 2016.
I have tried moving the shift lever and the steering wheel while it occurs, no change.Facts – battery was replaced 2-3 years agoAfter the first occurrence I yanked the battery, cleaned the terminals as well as the terminals under the hood. Over the next couple of months brought it to the dealer who could find no codes and of course it did not fail while they had it so they did nothing. In December I appealed to the service manager to replace the starter as I thought is sounded like a bad spot on the armature. He did so and also had the WIN module replaced. No issues until I was in FL weeks later. Here the dealer has replaced the PTC and TIPM modules and installed a redundant ground wire. The problem is still occurring. I’m down to under 400 miles on my 100k bumper to bumper warranty?
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About a week or two ago, when driving home, my battery light flicked on while at a stop light. Also, as the light wen t green and I accelerated away, I noticed a kind of 'whine' from the engine, like a turbine spinning up. By the time I got home it was fine again and the light out, and has been until today, when it happened again...I noticed that it happens if I have the AC on and I'm at a stop. If I turn off the AC when waiting at traffic lights, that seems to eliminate the battery light, but I still here the whine.
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I have a 2008 Sebring convertible that has starting issues. Sometimes when I turn the key to start, it does nothing (no noises, maybe a small click very rarely). If I take the key out and put it back in, it may start. Usually, I have to turn the power on, move the gears, and try again. Sometimes, it will start immediately, or I may have to do this procedure several times. It has been taken into the Chrysler dealer twice. They said it was not the switch or alternator and replaced the battery that wouldn't keep a charge. It was a 5-yr battery with 3 years of use. I was told to drive more! I shouldn't have to charge the battery every day. Several diagnostic tests were performed with no results. It still did this twice after the battery was replaced. Could it be cables?
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My frend has a 89 Sebring that won't start all the dash light come on but turn the key and it doesn't do a thing....
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I own a 2006 Azera Limited. I've been experiencing intermittent problems starting it. It cranks fine but will not start? The battery is new.
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I recently bought an 02 Chrysler sebring (4 cyl) When cold, it takes about 5-10 secs of cranking for engine to start. Is that normal?
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Wants to crank. I notice when I turn the key switch on (not start) the gas gauge pegs out as if a super full tank and no fuel pump noise. At times, leading up to the crank but no start condition, I would turn the key on, hear the fuel pump and the gas gauge would indicate proper fuel level. When this happened, the vehicle ALWAYS started.
Here what I know now;
1. Fuel pump works. As indicated by the red auxellery jumper lead inside the engine well.
2. Good fuel pressure.
3. Starter checks good.
4. Battery hot and leads are cleaned.
5. Grounds in engine compartment and at fuel tank are cleaned.
6. Vehicle does have gas.
7. Air bag light stays on, even after pulling battery leads, letting set, and reinstalling.
This ABS light would come on and go off independently before the "crank but no start condition". So I'm assuming that the ABS might be its own problem; but not contributing to the crank but no start condition? There were problems leading up to the no start condition. Vehicle began to become hard to start (but would start). After starting (at idle) if the gas pedal was pressed aggressively, the "service engine" light would flash on and off rapidly and the "ABS" light would come on. At this point the vehicle wanted to die. No apparent codes were given.
Now the "crank but no start condition". Before this problem, the vehicle was sending the code for 3 o2 sensors. But a new fuel filter corrected this problem completely with no further apparent problems. Then (about 4 weeks later) the "crank but no start". I do not think the fuel filter and the "crank but no start" problems are related.? No other maintenance has been done to this vehicle that might cause this problem. At this point the manual I am using is useless...
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My friend's 04 Sebring (6cyl) is overheating. After start up, almost immediately the water bubbles in the radiator and heat builds. He has replaced the radiator, thermostat, water pump, and even rebuilt the heads - still the overheating issue. What may be the problem and how to correct?
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The Truck...
1999 F-150 Supercab
170K miles
4.6 Litre
Automatic Trans
The Problem... About every other day, I try to start the truck, and it doesn't fire at all. It cranks fine, everything seems right, but no start.
What I've done...
Replaced Fuel Pump Relay.. (no luck)
Sprayed Starting Fluid In and Cranked... It Fires On Fluid.
Other info...
This problem never lasts long, and the problem mysteriously fixes itself after no more than an hour.
This problem has occurred both when the truck was warm and completely cold.
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My 2002 Sebring won't start. Here's what happens:
Turn the key in the ignition. Engine makes no noise at all. It's sorta like when the battery died 2 months ago, except this time the power windows and doors work, the headlights and interior lights work, though oddly, the radio doesn't. The radio, FYI, is not the one that came with the car. I bought it back in 2010 after the cassette deck on the original broke and I needed something with an Auxilary connector to connect my Ipod to. I had it professionally installed.
So the car doesn't start. The engine doesn't make any noise. The headlights do come on. The dashboard lights that normally come on when you try to start it up (the check engine light, the airbag light etc., also do not come on at any point. I don't recall any particular clicking sounds when I turn the ignition. I do remember hearing these clicking noises (sort of a quick one time click for each key turn) when the car wouldn't start due to battery/alternator issues two months ago.
So I did a bit of research, and I think it's either the starter solenoid or the ignition switch. Am I far off base?
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2006 F150 4.2 fuel issue? I get an intermitent no start condition and no obd codes. Then I discover that it really isn't intermittent, it only occurs after I have been running the engine. It will not start for at least 5-10 minutes after I have driven a few miles and shut the engine off. So if I wait 5-10 minutes then she starts and runs just fine. I played with this in the driveway to recreate this condition so I could determine if I had a spark or fuel issue (I have spark during no start). I found that 50% of the time I could start it right back up immediately after I shut the engine off. But if I shut it off right away again, then I got the no start condition again and have to wait another 5-10 minutes.
Now with cold engine I can start the motor over and over. To fix this I read forum after forum, which led me to decide that I had a fuel pump driver problem (module) located on back axle under spare tire. I replaced this and restarted the engine many times. The problem seemed to be gone but this only lasted about 30 minutes. Then it would not start at all and still no codes. I plugged my old module back in and the truck fired right up. So I decided I needed to (flash) pcm for new part but that changes nothing. Still no start with new module and runs with old module. I also replaced relay in fuse panel.
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1993 lebaron GTC... I just got the oil change, and the tec slip and the wrench touch the starter, positive and negative ends. I have power every where but no crank to start. I had a new backup starter and replace it figure that it was shot but after getting it tested its fine. I can hear the starter but i get no crank. Where do i look?
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I own a really nice original ' 89 Chrysler Lebaron coupe with the 2.5 N/A, throttle body injection and 3 speed automatic. It has just over 100k miles. The car sits in the garage all the time and is not used during the winter months and is never used in the salt season. I do "try" to start it sometimes just to keep the battery up. The problem is when I want to start it, especially after sitting for a while, often it will crank and crank but won't start. It's acting like it has no gas. When I take the aircleaner lid off and dump a little gas in, it fires up just fine then runs perfect after that. Even after it has been used as a daily car after that, when I shut it off, sometimes it will start just fine, other times it won't, then I have to use the gas can again. It has a mind of it's own. When you think it will restart, sometimes it won't. I've been keeping a little gas can in the trunk in case it does happen at odd times. With the gas can, it will always restart. I've talked to a few shops about this, they have no idea what might do this. Naturally, when I brought it in to show it to them, it would ALWAYS restart for them. Getting rid of this car is not an option for me, I love the car, except for that part of it.
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I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4L dohc and automatic transmission with 115k miles. I recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced. Shop left the front 2 engine mounting bolts off and the rear one loose. Picked up car after business hours drove it that evening and kept hearing a strange metallic squeak.Returned it to the shop the next morning and as i was driving it began to smoke and stall with the temp gauge pegged. They had also left a hose to the heater core disconnected. Could the engine not being mounted to the chassis and/ or the overheating have damaged the transmission.
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Got a bit of a problem with my car. Earlier this week, I got in and noticed there was heavy condensation on the inside of the windshield of my 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible. The windows had been rolled up and the top up of course. I see this kind of condensation happen on the outside a lot in the mornings. You know, dew settling and all that. If I wait around until later in the day, it evaporates on its own.
Anyway, this time it was on the INSIDE. I wiped it clean easily enough and was on my way.
Today I noticed that my heater wasn't working. The temperature gauge goes up to about 1/3 of the way, so I know the car is warming up. I'm not sure if it normally goes up that high; I don't usually pay much attention to the temperature gauge.
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I have an '06 Sebring convertible, 2.7l, V-6, 58,000 miles. When stopped with A/C on, car tends to surge. When I put in neutral, surging stops. Also, I sometimes get a "thump" (with both sound and feel) like I've been rear-ended, but have not. Dealer did tranny serivce and replaced all plugs and 2 coils which they said were "arcing". Did not fix problem. What would be wrong with A/C so as to cause this?
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2000 Chrysler Sebring Convt quit while driving. Tow truck drive and a mechanic at scene of breakdown felt itt seemed like it wasn't getting gas. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, 2 sets of plugs ans it won't start and when it did it ran rough and then fouled out new set of plugs. Seemed like too much fuel going to cylinder.
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My oil light comes on when I stop but goes off when I'm driving. I check the oil level and it was fine. What would cause this? It's a 2001 sebring 2.7L
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I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring that broke down. Unfortunately it ran out of oil, and I was told that the car has 2 sensors that detected the lack of oil and shut down the engine. A local auto repair shop replaced the sensors. I paid the bill and began to drive the car home but I only got 20 miles away when the engine blew. My question is, if the the shop told me the car was fixed and then the engine blew, aren't they somehow liable for this?
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I recently brought my 2000 chrysler sebring in because the alarm was going off at random times (3:00am). Also when I was driving the interior lights would turn on and off and the dash readout would say "DOOR" as if I had opened the door, there was a relay clicking sound under the dash and the car would also try to relock the doors. This was an intermittent problem, occasionally the car would be fine for a while then the show would begin. I took it to a local Chrysler dealer and they diagnosed the problem to be the BCM or Body Control Module.
My conclusion is that this whole problem was caused by a shorting door switch and that either they misdiagnosed the problem and when the new BCM did not fix the problem they found the real problem in the door switch or they just scammed me from the start. I think the "part exchange program" is a scam. Why don't I get the part back or why don't I get two prices, one if I exchange the part and one if I don't.
Could a faulty driver door switch damage a BCM? (I never heard of this before. In fact another dealer told me all he needed was the VIN to see if the part was in stock).
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My daughter's 2001 Chrysler Sebring began "shaking and jerking" last night. She described it as similar to when a person drives a standard transmission that doesn't know how to do so. (Her car is an automatic.) She had been driving it for about ten minutes without a problem and had luckily just turned onto a residential street to pick up a friend. She said the check engine light came on as well. She was able to limp it to her friend's and leave it parked there.
Recent work on the car includes the thermostat being replaced and a resistor related to the heater blower motor being replaced. What might be causing this. She's probably going to have to have it towed.
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