Sebring - Chrysler :: 2008 - Won't Start Intermittently
Jun 4, 2012
I have a 2008 Sebring convertible that has starting issues. Sometimes when I turn the key to start, it does nothing (no noises, maybe a small click very rarely). If I take the key out and put it back in, it may start. Usually, I have to turn the power on, move the gears, and try again. Sometimes, it will start immediately, or I may have to do this procedure several times. It has been taken into the Chrysler dealer twice. They said it was not the switch or alternator and replaced the battery that wouldn't keep a charge. It was a 5-yr battery with 3 years of use. I was told to drive more! I shouldn't have to charge the battery every day. Several diagnostic tests were performed with no results. It still did this twice after the battery was replaced. Could it be cables?
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Let me tell you a story ‘bout my daughter’s 2008 Chrysler Sebring 2.4L…
We have owned the car since 2009. Recently the car has begun to start intermittently. Generally it starts normally. Other times it won’t. It can be driven for a month with no problem and then BAM! It won’t start. No dead battery sound, no clicking, no starter trying to engage NUTT’N!
AND… the brake pedal is firm! The brake pedal is firm and cannot be pushed down!
The car has been to the Dodge dealer several times. They have replaced the starter because a couple of teeth were missing, flashed the computer and replaced the alternator. The car started fine for a few days and then wouldn’t start again.
The Dodge boys kept the car for a week and of course, it started fine while they had it. One of the service managers told me to pull out a certain fuse to reset the computer. They also told me that they usually see these types of problems if the car was jump started wrong (the jumper cables were hooked up backwards I guess).
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2008 Chrysler Sebring V6 hardtop convertible ... Intermittent no crank / no start condition – when turning key to start position, either you get nothing as if there is no battery connected and or a slight click as if the solenoid was trying to engage. The pattern can be nothing, nothing, nothing, click, click, nothing, startup or any combination of clicks or nothing, always resulting with a startup. Sometimes it will only be 3-4 attempts, other times 15-20. This occurs anywhere from every 15-20 starts to driving 2,000 miles from NH to FL without one failure.Completely random occurrence – no pattern can be seen – has been ongoing since September 2015 to now March 2016.
I have tried moving the shift lever and the steering wheel while it occurs, no change.Facts – battery was replaced 2-3 years agoAfter the first occurrence I yanked the battery, cleaned the terminals as well as the terminals under the hood. Over the next couple of months brought it to the dealer who could find no codes and of course it did not fail while they had it so they did nothing. In December I appealed to the service manager to replace the starter as I thought is sounded like a bad spot on the armature. He did so and also had the WIN module replaced. No issues until I was in FL weeks later. Here the dealer has replaced the PTC and TIPM modules and installed a redundant ground wire. The problem is still occurring. I’m down to under 400 miles on my 100k bumper to bumper warranty?
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My frend has a 89 Sebring that won't start all the dash light come on but turn the key and it doesn't do a thing....
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I recently bought an 02 Chrysler sebring (4 cyl) When cold, it takes about 5-10 secs of cranking for engine to start. Is that normal?
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My friend's 04 Sebring (6cyl) is overheating. After start up, almost immediately the water bubbles in the radiator and heat builds. He has replaced the radiator, thermostat, water pump, and even rebuilt the heads - still the overheating issue. What may be the problem and how to correct?
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My 2002 Sebring won't start. Here's what happens:
Turn the key in the ignition. Engine makes no noise at all. It's sorta like when the battery died 2 months ago, except this time the power windows and doors work, the headlights and interior lights work, though oddly, the radio doesn't. The radio, FYI, is not the one that came with the car. I bought it back in 2010 after the cassette deck on the original broke and I needed something with an Auxilary connector to connect my Ipod to. I had it professionally installed.
So the car doesn't start. The engine doesn't make any noise. The headlights do come on. The dashboard lights that normally come on when you try to start it up (the check engine light, the airbag light etc., also do not come on at any point. I don't recall any particular clicking sounds when I turn the ignition. I do remember hearing these clicking noises (sort of a quick one time click for each key turn) when the car wouldn't start due to battery/alternator issues two months ago.
So I did a bit of research, and I think it's either the starter solenoid or the ignition switch. Am I far off base?
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I drive a 2008 Chrysler 300 base model with 150k miles. The other day I went over a dip in the road at 35 miles per hour and the steering power went out for about 3 seconds. The car pulled about 10 feet to the right as I struggled to counter steer to the left. The power suddenly came back and the jolt through off the alignment of my steering wheel. It was almost a serious accident.
Dealership said that there is no issues that they can see. I just need an alignment now. Pump is fine, holds pressure no leaks anywhere. Belt and tensioner look like new. keep driving till it happens again. They thought maybe the belt got wet and slipped but it hadn't rained in days and this was 40 minutes into the ride. I don't want to wait till I crash to do something. I don't believe the electric power went off in the whole car, I was to busy trying to avoid a crash to have noticed. However the car didn't stall or stop at all, it just kept driving when the steering came back.
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have a 1999 town and country that wont start from time to time. some times it starts right up and starts right up for months.some times starts and then go to start it again it just won't start . dosent even make a sound. all the lights and radio etc. working, and its been to numerous times to the repair shop. each time at the repair shop it starts right up and when they put it on the diagnostic computer , the diagnostics says nothing is wrong.
it's a brand new battery, and when we took the battery to the auto parts store they checked it and said the battery is charging and then discharging in a cycle.just got back from the chrysler dealer repair and they put the diagnostic computure on it and it says nothing is wrong.
i live in tucson, az and when the temp is 105F outside and i buy ice and frozen things is when the town and country decides it dosent wanta start
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I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4L dohc and automatic transmission with 115k miles. I recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced. Shop left the front 2 engine mounting bolts off and the rear one loose. Picked up car after business hours drove it that evening and kept hearing a strange metallic squeak.Returned it to the shop the next morning and as i was driving it began to smoke and stall with the temp gauge pegged. They had also left a hose to the heater core disconnected. Could the engine not being mounted to the chassis and/ or the overheating have damaged the transmission.
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Got a bit of a problem with my car. Earlier this week, I got in and noticed there was heavy condensation on the inside of the windshield of my 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible. The windows had been rolled up and the top up of course. I see this kind of condensation happen on the outside a lot in the mornings. You know, dew settling and all that. If I wait around until later in the day, it evaporates on its own.
Anyway, this time it was on the INSIDE. I wiped it clean easily enough and was on my way.
Today I noticed that my heater wasn't working. The temperature gauge goes up to about 1/3 of the way, so I know the car is warming up. I'm not sure if it normally goes up that high; I don't usually pay much attention to the temperature gauge.
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I have an '06 Sebring convertible, 2.7l, V-6, 58,000 miles. When stopped with A/C on, car tends to surge. When I put in neutral, surging stops. Also, I sometimes get a "thump" (with both sound and feel) like I've been rear-ended, but have not. Dealer did tranny serivce and replaced all plugs and 2 coils which they said were "arcing". Did not fix problem. What would be wrong with A/C so as to cause this?
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2000 Chrysler Sebring Convt quit while driving. Tow truck drive and a mechanic at scene of breakdown felt itt seemed like it wasn't getting gas. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, 2 sets of plugs ans it won't start and when it did it ran rough and then fouled out new set of plugs. Seemed like too much fuel going to cylinder.
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My oil light comes on when I stop but goes off when I'm driving. I check the oil level and it was fine. What would cause this? It's a 2001 sebring 2.7L
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I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring that broke down. Unfortunately it ran out of oil, and I was told that the car has 2 sensors that detected the lack of oil and shut down the engine. A local auto repair shop replaced the sensors. I paid the bill and began to drive the car home but I only got 20 miles away when the engine blew. My question is, if the the shop told me the car was fixed and then the engine blew, aren't they somehow liable for this?
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I recently brought my 2000 chrysler sebring in because the alarm was going off at random times (3:00am). Also when I was driving the interior lights would turn on and off and the dash readout would say "DOOR" as if I had opened the door, there was a relay clicking sound under the dash and the car would also try to relock the doors. This was an intermittent problem, occasionally the car would be fine for a while then the show would begin. I took it to a local Chrysler dealer and they diagnosed the problem to be the BCM or Body Control Module.
My conclusion is that this whole problem was caused by a shorting door switch and that either they misdiagnosed the problem and when the new BCM did not fix the problem they found the real problem in the door switch or they just scammed me from the start. I think the "part exchange program" is a scam. Why don't I get the part back or why don't I get two prices, one if I exchange the part and one if I don't.
Could a faulty driver door switch damage a BCM? (I never heard of this before. In fact another dealer told me all he needed was the VIN to see if the part was in stock).
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My daughter's 2001 Chrysler Sebring began "shaking and jerking" last night. She described it as similar to when a person drives a standard transmission that doesn't know how to do so. (Her car is an automatic.) She had been driving it for about ten minutes without a problem and had luckily just turned onto a residential street to pick up a friend. She said the check engine light came on as well. She was able to limp it to her friend's and leave it parked there.
Recent work on the car includes the thermostat being replaced and a resistor related to the heater blower motor being replaced. What might be causing this. She's probably going to have to have it towed.
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ASD Fuse keeps blowing. I unplug PCM and fuse no longer blows. I plugged in pin 41-80 and the the fuse is still ok. Car just quit running and starter will not turn. Does pin 1-40 control starter and fuel?? Could I have a bad PCM??
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I have the above mentioned 2005 Sebring Convertible (2.7L V6, Touring) and the AC will work occasionally, but when it is hot and humid, it is sure to blow hot. First up was to check the system pressure and top off if needed - not the problem. Also blew the bugs and junk from the radiator fins. The wires and electrical connections look good at a glance. Turning the car off and on again doesn't work. Why would the darn thing work part time and take days off when we need it most?
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Oil light comes on when I stop and goes off once I move again. Oil is full and just changed. What causes this & can I repair? I have a 01 Chy Sebring withh 100K miles on it. I bought new & have changed the oil every 3K miles since I have had it.
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In May 2011, I got into the passenger side of my 2006 Sebring to find the foot area full of water, and it wouldn't stop pouring in. So I had work done on the AC unit to fix a broken plastic part on the firewall. I am a snowbird who travels to Florida every fall, and subsequent to that work being done, I have had to have a line (?) cleared because the water drips into the driver's side when I turn right. After clearing the line, it seems to be ok. This year, I had the line cleared and the problem persisted. My mechanic cannot figure out what's going on.
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