Sebring - Chrysler :: 2008 - Starts Intermittently / Brake Pedal Is Firm And Cannot Be Pushed Down
Oct 14, 2011
Let me tell you a story ‘bout my daughter’s 2008 Chrysler Sebring 2.4L…
We have owned the car since 2009. Recently the car has begun to start intermittently. Generally it starts normally. Other times it won’t. It can be driven for a month with no problem and then BAM! It won’t start. No dead battery sound, no clicking, no starter trying to engage NUTT’N!
AND… the brake pedal is firm! The brake pedal is firm and cannot be pushed down!
The car has been to the Dodge dealer several times. They have replaced the starter because a couple of teeth were missing, flashed the computer and replaced the alternator. The car started fine for a few days and then wouldn’t start again.
The Dodge boys kept the car for a week and of course, it started fine while they had it. One of the service managers told me to pull out a certain fuse to reset the computer. They also told me that they usually see these types of problems if the car was jump started wrong (the jumper cables were hooked up backwards I guess).
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I have a 2008 Sebring convertible that has starting issues. Sometimes when I turn the key to start, it does nothing (no noises, maybe a small click very rarely). If I take the key out and put it back in, it may start. Usually, I have to turn the power on, move the gears, and try again. Sometimes, it will start immediately, or I may have to do this procedure several times. It has been taken into the Chrysler dealer twice. They said it was not the switch or alternator and replaced the battery that wouldn't keep a charge. It was a 5-yr battery with 3 years of use. I was told to drive more! I shouldn't have to charge the battery every day. Several diagnostic tests were performed with no results. It still did this twice after the battery was replaced. Could it be cables?
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A couple of months ago my daughter's Sebring engine began shutting off immediately after starting. We brought the car to my usually reliable mechanic. They couldn't find anything wrong. The problem became more frequent (every 2 to 3 starts) and we brought it back to my mechanic who determined it was the car's computer system. $1700 later the car is ready to be picked up, my daughter gets it after the shop is closed, and it wouldn't start! She left it there, got a ride, and, one week later the Sebring is still at the mechanic's. They told us it starts every time for them and they don't see any problem. After researching on the Internet I thought it might have something to do with the immobilizer but they told me that tested fine. I'm at a loss over what to do.
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I noticed something a few weeks back, wanted to see if it's normal or a potential issue is arising. When you are driving slowly, maybe coasting to a red light and not using much braking power, I notice the pedal is pretty firm. If you push on it harder, it then "gives" and feels softer and you can more easily push it towards the floor. If you are driving faster or braking harder, it feels more normal and doesn't have the firmness when you first press the brake.
I assume this is the brake assist or some other electronic nanny at work, but wanted to verify. I have checked the brake fluid in the car, and it's certainly not low.
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There is a low buzz sound when I have my foot on the gas pedal. It doesn't seem to effect acceleration or anything. At first I thought it was a wheel bearing but the noise disappears when I remove my foot from the pedal. The Sebring has 65K miles on it.
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It could be the ECS kicking in or something but here's what I feel..... when hitting a rough patch of road at I'd say 25 miles an hour or greater and applying the brake over that rough patch of road for what ever reason, my foot is on brake pedal normal and it feels like the pedal gets ultra firm (opposite of pedal diving to floor if you lost brakes) or the feeling is like the brake pedal is pushing back against me, like the car is taking the brakes off on me for a brief second.....its a weird feeling and only happens on rough road when I'm at speed and have to hit brakes, all other braking times it doesn't do this
Good example is coming to a stop at a certain stop light that's got choppy asphalt right at the stop light line.....light turns yellow and I'm at speed and have to brake to stop for the light, it hit the rumbly road and feels like the pedal doesn't want me to brake and gets really firm, I stop and all, but then again makes me worry, because if I had to really stop fast and hard......would I ???
No alarm or alert lights come on, so I don't know ....
Car's got 8,000 miles on the clock ....
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Having an intermittent problem on my 2002 Chrysler Sebring LX (about 132,000 miles). Often I can drive around and everything is okay. However, it seems like every 11 days or so, the temperature gauge starts to climb above the halfway mark and toward the danger zone. Only once has it gotten all the way up to the red danger zone and illuminated the warning light, and that was the very first time. It was fortunate that this happened the exact moment I reached home and parked in my driveway.
When the temperature gauge starts to climb above the halfway mark, I've tried to turn on the heater to cool it down, but this doesn't work. The heater just blows cold air. So far I have been taking the following steps:
1) Stop driving and park the car for 10 minutes or more.
2) Fill the coolant tank under the hood with coolant. I'm putting in about half a gallon each time.
3) Continue driving.
After this process, the heater is again blowing warm air and the temperature gauge is staying at a safe level. It seems to persist for about 11 - 14 days then the cycle starts all over.
It happened last night following a drive of about 5 miles home from the gym. Since I had no more driving to do that day, I just parked it overnight to see if this was a fluke and if it would be necessary to add more coolant.
This morning I drove the same 5 miles. Temperature gauge stayed pretty low for about half the trip, but then rapidly shot up. I got to the gym before it reached the danger zone (it was probably about 3/4 of the way up). I parked for a little over an hour while I went inside to exercise. Then I again added half a gallon of coolant and drove home without problems.
The last time I had overheating issues, the coolant rapidly spilled out of the bottom and the overheating was not preventable. I got the radiator replaced. This was in October 2013. I've also tried some of that stop leak fluid. It didn't work, but I'm not so sure I used it correctly. I didn't flush the tank and I think I might have poured it in on a normal driving day (coolant pretty full).
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I've run into a problem while doing brakes on my friends 2005 Sebring. I can't seem to get the brake caliper off. There is a little rubber boot with a plastic cap that is where the bolts that hold the calipers in place are. How to get the bolts out to remove the caliper. In fact, it doesn't seem like there are any traditional bolt heads in the plastic cover.
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If I make a right turn at anything above a snail's pace, my emergency brake light comes on and it chimes. Had the brakes checked and they are fine for now but since they are original, they will need to be replaced soon. The car has 50,000 miles. Recently had the cam sensor replaced and the dealership checked the car over.
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How to remove this type of connector from the brake light switch? I've tried just about everything at this point. Sheer force alone doesn't work. There has to be some type of release mechanism I'm not seeing that allows it to disconnect.
IMG_20161111_1433060_rewind.jpg3120x4160 1.96 MB
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I have a 98 Chrysler Concord Lxi with a 3.2 L V6. In the summer time when its hot The car will get warmer than normal (I have figured out that one of the cooling fans is out and needs to be replaced). That said. after running for a few hours on the highway and if sat idle with the temperature raised, if I shut the car off 9 times out of 10 when I go to restart the car it will crank and crank but will not fire. My guess is the computer shuts the fuel off.
I have to wait about 30 minutes and it will start. Sometimes it will start very rough with a carbon smell and the need to idle it high until it smooths out. Other times It will start with out having to wait but the idle is again rough and can smell carbon. I have looked online and found some have a solution of releasing the pressure of the fuel line as it could be a symptom of vapor lock. I have tried this and no pressure is released ( I have disconnected A/C Lines on previous cars only to find a large BOOM a mess in the garage and in my shorts!) so I know I am releasing the right Scraeder valve.
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Is it normal on the 2.0T that when you are driving and stop at a red light to get vibration that you can feel in the car and hear in the motor? As soon as you let off the break it stops and the engine stops the noise. I don't drive the car enough really (my wifes) to know if it is normal or if this just started. It is an 07 and just turned 12k on the weekend trip. Also, having a problem on Sat radio with there being a high pitch hum in the back ground? [IMG] [URL] ...
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I traded my 2007 Prius for the 2010 III Prius on 5/30. I had 5 wonderful days with it and on the 6th day, it started.
There is a loud creaking noise when the brake pedal is pushed and released.
The dealership contacted Toyota and did everything that was suggested to correct the problem and no luck.
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My less than 7000 miles RX started making noise when I pushed the brake pedal. Evidently it sounded like the "LS brake squawk" according to service foreman. Not sure if the actuator is same in all RXs.
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I noticed this strange behavior this afternoon on my SantaFe DM. Every time I press the break pedal, the front position lights turn on during daylight. Light switch is set on Auto.
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I drive a 2008 Chrysler 300 base model with 150k miles. The other day I went over a dip in the road at 35 miles per hour and the steering power went out for about 3 seconds. The car pulled about 10 feet to the right as I struggled to counter steer to the left. The power suddenly came back and the jolt through off the alignment of my steering wheel. It was almost a serious accident.
Dealership said that there is no issues that they can see. I just need an alignment now. Pump is fine, holds pressure no leaks anywhere. Belt and tensioner look like new. keep driving till it happens again. They thought maybe the belt got wet and slipped but it hadn't rained in days and this was 40 minutes into the ride. I don't want to wait till I crash to do something. I don't believe the electric power went off in the whole car, I was to busy trying to avoid a crash to have noticed. However the car didn't stall or stop at all, it just kept driving when the steering came back.
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My 2008 Prius has been sitting for about 25 days while I've been out of town. I just tried to drive it, but it feels like the parking brake is engaged even though I've pushed it off (and the lights are showing it is off).
A bit more detail: Car has been parked on a relatively steep incline (maybe 35 degrees) for about 25 days (this is its normal parking spot). Parking brake was engaged during this time. Weather is mild to warm (it's Hawaii). When I try to back up it feels like there is something behind the one of the rear tires, and the car almost starts to lift up a bit. (But there's nothing there that I can see.) I might have been able to push the gas a bit more, but was afraid of damaging something. When I put the car in drive and take my foot off the brake it rolls slightly (and very slowly forward), but not nearly what it should (I'm afraid to push the gas at all because there is a wall very close to the front of my car).
Seems like maybe the brake is stuck or something of the sort...
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I bought a new toyota camry L# 2013 a month ago. The gas pedal seems very firm and need to really press hard to accelerate. My initial thought was that it being a new one it might be firm and would loosen up gradually. Its been a month and more than 1000+ miles, but the pedal is still very rigid and I am feeling leg pain because of it (I am driving 52 miles to and from work). Not sure if it is common feature or mine is behaving that way.
BTW - I also own 1999 camry and the gas pedal is very smooth and responsive.
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I am looking to purchase a 1993 Chrysler New Yorker and when I test drove it I noticed that every time the brake pedal was pushed a mechanical whirring noise was audible. This happened every time the brake was pushed whether the car was moving or not. The car brakes seemed to work fine and there were no other noises associated with normal brake problems. The noise seemed to come from inside the car. What that might be? Also, any other reasons to not buy a 93 New Yorker with about 115,000 miles on it for cheap?
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I have a very specific problem with my 2008 Chrysler Town and Country. It has happened 4 times in the past few months and the dealership is unable to replicate the problem, so they tell me there is no problem. When I am decelerating/coasting the traction control light on the dash will come on, the power steering will go out, the RPMs will drop to zero and the gas pedal is loose and has no effect, and then the power brakes will go out. All the electrical still works, I muscle over to the side of the road, turn it off, wait a few seconds, turn it back on, it starts up just fine and I drive off with no problem.
The first three times it happened I was on the same stretch of road (which I dubbed the Bermuda Triangle Road), I was going 25 mph, the road is fairly level, the pavement was dry and it was above freezing. The fourth time was on a different road, but still level, there was snow and it was below freezing but the road was clear, and I was going about 33 mph. Each time the car had been sitting in my garage for at least a couple of hours, and it happened only a few minutes after leaving the house.
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I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4L dohc and automatic transmission with 115k miles. I recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced. Shop left the front 2 engine mounting bolts off and the rear one loose. Picked up car after business hours drove it that evening and kept hearing a strange metallic squeak.Returned it to the shop the next morning and as i was driving it began to smoke and stall with the temp gauge pegged. They had also left a hose to the heater core disconnected. Could the engine not being mounted to the chassis and/ or the overheating have damaged the transmission.
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