Sebring - Chrysler :: 2006 - Horn Randomly Honks
Dec 1, 2013
My girlfriend's 2006 Chrysler Sebring is suffering from a horn that randomly honks. No action on the part of the driver is needed for the horn to blow, in fact it goes off by itself in the middle of the night sometimes, for minutes without end.
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I have a 2001 F350 and over the past few nights the horn has started honking once randomly. It always only honks once but will do it several times a night (may be more that I don't hear). I'm thinking that this has something to do with the alarm maybe? I can't afford to take it to the shop at the moment (nor any moments in the foreseeable future, come to think of it) and am hoping that its something that I can fix myself?
I'm having other miscellaneous electrical type issues, but don't know it there are related at all. For example, the power locks don't work (they try to, but don't seem to have enough power), the overhead console that digitally displays the outside temp/mpg/etc. stopped working suddenly and the lighter/power plug outlet stopped working, but I was able to fix this by replacing the fuse.
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Its a 1998 chrysler sebring jxi. 2.5 V6... It runs fine then randomly shuts off all electrical parts stay on i have to pull over or if it turns off at a red light let it sit for a while because i immediately get the "no bus" code. i have to let it sit with the car on but not trying to crank until the code goes away then it cranks again. sometimes i have to repeat that process a few times, sometimes just once. at times the code only last a couple minutes but sometimes over 10!
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I own a 2007 Chrysler Sebring touring. I bought it used with 34,000 miles in 2009, and so far, haven't had too many real problems with it. Unfortunately, I'm rounding the ~65,000 mile mark and some weird things are finally going on. The transmission light comes on for a few days then turns off - for a few weeks one time, then it came back on for a day, and hasn't been back on for a few months. Also the Airbag light will bing on for a few seconds, turn off, then a few minutes later come back on, and this happens randomly. (It also recently threw a wheel weight it seems, but I'm familiar with how to fix that issue!)
A mechanic friend of mine told me that rather than paying money to repair this car, that I should get rid of it - he suggests Chryslers like mine become junkboxes right around 65,000 miles.
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I have an '06 Sebring convertible, 2.7l, V-6, 58,000 miles. When stopped with A/C on, car tends to surge. When I put in neutral, surging stops. Also, I sometimes get a "thump" (with both sound and feel) like I've been rear-ended, but have not. Dealer did tranny serivce and replaced all plugs and 2 coils which they said were "arcing". Did not fix problem. What would be wrong with A/C so as to cause this?
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In May 2011, I got into the passenger side of my 2006 Sebring to find the foot area full of water, and it wouldn't stop pouring in. So I had work done on the AC unit to fix a broken plastic part on the firewall. I am a snowbird who travels to Florida every fall, and subsequent to that work being done, I have had to have a line (?) cleared because the water drips into the driver's side when I turn right. After clearing the line, it seems to be ok. This year, I had the line cleared and the problem persisted. My mechanic cannot figure out what's going on.
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2006 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. This car is driving me crazy. Last summer, we drove it from Denver to San Diego. The trip was perfect but within minutes after we arrived the car would not restart. It has been towed to mechanics 5 times and had the starter replaced twice, the battery, pndlr switch each replaced and of course they always find various other things that are needed that don't have anything to do with starting the car. It will work for awhile and then not start again. The last 2 times, we sent it to the mechanic, they jumped it and could not duplicate the situation after several days trying and sent it home. We thought it might be the radio that was installed a few years ago so we removed it, but now the car won't start again.
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There is a low buzz sound when I have my foot on the gas pedal. It doesn't seem to effect acceleration or anything. At first I thought it was a wheel bearing but the noise disappears when I remove my foot from the pedal. The Sebring has 65K miles on it.
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Engine oil has been changed and spark plugs changed. The engine is still making rattling/clicking noise. I checked with a mechanic and he indicated that engine needs to be repaired. Didn't say exactly what needs to be done and stated it would cost about $2200 for parts and labor. Why the engine keeps rattling and making the noise? Oh, before plugs were changed, the engine was shutting off at times when in idle mode.
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About a week or two ago, when driving home, my battery light flicked on while at a stop light. Also, as the light wen t green and I accelerated away, I noticed a kind of 'whine' from the engine, like a turbine spinning up. By the time I got home it was fine again and the light out, and has been until today, when it happened again...I noticed that it happens if I have the AC on and I'm at a stop. If I turn off the AC when waiting at traffic lights, that seems to eliminate the battery light, but I still here the whine.
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When you turn the steering wheel, left or right, the horn honks at random stages of turn. Nothing long, just a short honk. If you stop the wheel where the honk happened, it just honks.
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I recently added factory remote start to my truck, installed the antenna, bought and programmed a new 4 button key and had the dealer activate the feature. That part was smooth. I have since bought another 4 button key and cannot get the head part to program. I am following the same steps as before, doors closed, cycle the door locks and leave unlocked with the button on the door. cycle the ignition 8 times, leaving in ON position (with original factory key). the door locks cycle on their own. When I push a button on ANY fob, the horn honks and nothing else happens. Any fob, the new unprogrammed FOB, the existing programmed FOBs, the horn honks. This tells me the new FOB is being read, but not retained.
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I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4L dohc and automatic transmission with 115k miles. I recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced. Shop left the front 2 engine mounting bolts off and the rear one loose. Picked up car after business hours drove it that evening and kept hearing a strange metallic squeak.Returned it to the shop the next morning and as i was driving it began to smoke and stall with the temp gauge pegged. They had also left a hose to the heater core disconnected. Could the engine not being mounted to the chassis and/ or the overheating have damaged the transmission.
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Got a bit of a problem with my car. Earlier this week, I got in and noticed there was heavy condensation on the inside of the windshield of my 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible. The windows had been rolled up and the top up of course. I see this kind of condensation happen on the outside a lot in the mornings. You know, dew settling and all that. If I wait around until later in the day, it evaporates on its own.
Anyway, this time it was on the INSIDE. I wiped it clean easily enough and was on my way.
Today I noticed that my heater wasn't working. The temperature gauge goes up to about 1/3 of the way, so I know the car is warming up. I'm not sure if it normally goes up that high; I don't usually pay much attention to the temperature gauge.
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2000 Chrysler Sebring Convt quit while driving. Tow truck drive and a mechanic at scene of breakdown felt itt seemed like it wasn't getting gas. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, 2 sets of plugs ans it won't start and when it did it ran rough and then fouled out new set of plugs. Seemed like too much fuel going to cylinder.
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My oil light comes on when I stop but goes off when I'm driving. I check the oil level and it was fine. What would cause this? It's a 2001 sebring 2.7L
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I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring that broke down. Unfortunately it ran out of oil, and I was told that the car has 2 sensors that detected the lack of oil and shut down the engine. A local auto repair shop replaced the sensors. I paid the bill and began to drive the car home but I only got 20 miles away when the engine blew. My question is, if the the shop told me the car was fixed and then the engine blew, aren't they somehow liable for this?
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I recently brought my 2000 chrysler sebring in because the alarm was going off at random times (3:00am). Also when I was driving the interior lights would turn on and off and the dash readout would say "DOOR" as if I had opened the door, there was a relay clicking sound under the dash and the car would also try to relock the doors. This was an intermittent problem, occasionally the car would be fine for a while then the show would begin. I took it to a local Chrysler dealer and they diagnosed the problem to be the BCM or Body Control Module.
My conclusion is that this whole problem was caused by a shorting door switch and that either they misdiagnosed the problem and when the new BCM did not fix the problem they found the real problem in the door switch or they just scammed me from the start. I think the "part exchange program" is a scam. Why don't I get the part back or why don't I get two prices, one if I exchange the part and one if I don't.
Could a faulty driver door switch damage a BCM? (I never heard of this before. In fact another dealer told me all he needed was the VIN to see if the part was in stock).
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My daughter's 2001 Chrysler Sebring began "shaking and jerking" last night. She described it as similar to when a person drives a standard transmission that doesn't know how to do so. (Her car is an automatic.) She had been driving it for about ten minutes without a problem and had luckily just turned onto a residential street to pick up a friend. She said the check engine light came on as well. She was able to limp it to her friend's and leave it parked there.
Recent work on the car includes the thermostat being replaced and a resistor related to the heater blower motor being replaced. What might be causing this. She's probably going to have to have it towed.
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ASD Fuse keeps blowing. I unplug PCM and fuse no longer blows. I plugged in pin 41-80 and the the fuse is still ok. Car just quit running and starter will not turn. Does pin 1-40 control starter and fuel?? Could I have a bad PCM??
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I have the above mentioned 2005 Sebring Convertible (2.7L V6, Touring) and the AC will work occasionally, but when it is hot and humid, it is sure to blow hot. First up was to check the system pressure and top off if needed - not the problem. Also blew the bugs and junk from the radiator fins. The wires and electrical connections look good at a glance. Turning the car off and on again doesn't work. Why would the darn thing work part time and take days off when we need it most?
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