Sebring - Chrysler :: 2005 - Wiper Motor Not Working / Gauges Started Flashing On And Off
Jul 17, 2014
It's a 2005 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4 DOHC. A couple weeks ago I tried to use the wipers and nothing happened - at all. The next day the gauges inside the car went hay wire, started flashing on and off. Turned out the car needed a new battery and alternator. Replaced both and the car has been perfectly fine - except for the wipers. I checked the wiper fuse and it wasn't blown so I pulled the cowl, unplugged the motor, turned the key on, turned the wiper switch to full speed and then tested for voltage at the plug and got almost 12 volts when testing several terminal combinations.
I thought for sure I had it figured out so went ahead and bought a remanufactured wiper motor but nothing happened when I plugged it in. I thought maybe since I didn't mount it it wasn't grounded so went ahead and did that and still nothing. Thinking maybe it was defective I returned it and went to a different auto parts store and bought another one, hooked it up and got the same results. So then I tested all nine relays in the relay control center and they all passed. So now I'm thinking the only thing left to test is the wiper switch. Am I correct?
And also I'd love to bench test the original motor just to verify that it works but don't know which terminals to connect to. I've searched the internet with two different browsers and came up with nothing. The motor in question is a Bosch 05-02-14 41. And then underneath it has 0390 241 7411 12V 058 written on it. The terminals are labeled: 31b, 31, 53 and 53b. And since the OE replacement motor for this car is a Cardone 40-3026, which terminals to use to bench test that one, I could then figure out which terminals to use on the Bosch.
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Blower motor will not stop after engine is turned off. Is this a relay switch issue? Motor will run at very high speed. After a few minutes it would intermittently turn on and off. Battery was discharged two days ago. I forget how to test these relay switch, been a while since I've used my old DMM. Anyway, I've got an error code PO4091 (secondary air inj sys insufficient flow, bank 1). I lost the info on the two other error codes, but I will dig it up later and see if at all related.
Off topic. Found a vacuum line broken, reinserted the remainder of the tubing, so good for now on that end. It's by the TEE next to the battery. No wonder this one was stalling around 600 RPM and on low speeds around 600 RPM. New coils wires and spark plugs. Runs smoother now.
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I have the above mentioned 2005 Sebring Convertible (2.7L V6, Touring) and the AC will work occasionally, but when it is hot and humid, it is sure to blow hot. First up was to check the system pressure and top off if needed - not the problem. Also blew the bugs and junk from the radiator fins. The wires and electrical connections look good at a glance. Turning the car off and on again doesn't work. Why would the darn thing work part time and take days off when we need it most?
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I've run into a problem while doing brakes on my friends 2005 Sebring. I can't seem to get the brake caliper off. There is a little rubber boot with a plastic cap that is where the bolts that hold the calipers in place are. How to get the bolts out to remove the caliper. In fact, it doesn't seem like there are any traditional bolt heads in the plastic cover.
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I just bought a 2005 Chrysler Sebring sedan 2 weeks ago, has 94,000miles on it. Had no problems with anything until 6 days after purchasing the car. I just got on the highway & was about a mile onto the highway & I was already up to speed 65mph & my whole car just starts jerking (bucking like a horse) & I let off the gas & it'd stop. I'd give it gas again & it would start to jerk(buck) again; I had to get to work so I drove it for the couple miles I had left to get to work.
As I got onto the off ramp I noticed my car didn't jerk/buck like it was at the higher speed. After work I drove back home & on the highway without any problems. I also didn't have any warning lights come on while it was jerking/bucking. (Before this incident, I had drove to my moms, which is 1hr & 45min away, & back with no problems). I took it to a local mechanic & they found nothing wrong, & they test drove it & checked all the fluids/filters/spark plugs. I did need new front break pads & rotors so I had them change those.
Four days later my car did it again.. the jerking/bucking. But this time it was at a low speed & I noticed a ding(like the kind of ding your car makes if you don't have your seat belt on), but again I saw no warning lights come on. I kept driving & was almost to get onto the highway & was about 20mph & my car started to jerk/buck again. I thought it might be nothing so I kept driving to get onto the highway. I turned onto the highway onramp & started going 20-25mph & my car started to jerk/buck like a horse & not let me accelerate any faster.
So I pulled onto the onramp shoulder & turned my car off then back on again & let it sit for about 5 minutes & got on the highway & it was like my car had magically been fixed. I got up to speed (65mph) just fine with no jerking/bucking. Again this time none of my warning lights came on & I didn't have any smoke coming out the back end. I of course immediately went strait home, but had not signs of the jerking/bucking. My car also when I start it, all of my dash warning lights come on like they normally would whenever you start up your car, so I know they all work.
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I have a Chrysler Sebring 2005Engine cuts out at 2500 spurts stutters can't go above 35 mph...But still runs... No cruise available will not come on.. Engine light on... Which I guess from what I read is normal In "limp mode" Got it home.. Shut it off.. Starts back up.. I'm thinking cam/crank shaft sensor? Both of those are new.. And an ECM all from a prior problem.. Or fuel pump.?? Not enough pressure to keep up with demand..
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A couple of weeks ago, with the car turned off, keys out of the ignition - about every thirteen seconds you could hear the air injection pump coming on, running for a couple of seconds and then turning off. The next day the car battery was dead (no surprise) so we charged it up and took it to the shop (AAA) . They told us that it was a faulty MAP sensor and didn't give us a price quote to fix it, just an invoice/diagnostic bill. But they did unplug the air injection pump so that the battery wouldn't keep getting drained.
We drove the car home and called them the next day to get an estimate for the repair and they said that they misdiagnosed the problem and that it was actually a MAF sensor that was causing the air injection pump to come on when the car was turned off and that it would cost around 500 dollars for the part and labor. Too steep so we decided to hold off on the repair. Understanding our reluctance to go through with the repair, they recommended that we plug the air injection pump back in and still drive the car but to make sure that we unhook the battery at night/when the car would be sitting for many hours without being started.
Here's where it gets a little confusing (or at least for me). I did take AAA's advice and went ahead and plugged the air injection pump back in and for the last couple of weeks it's been fine. No issues with the battery being drained whatsoever/no air injection pump coming on with the car turned off. But today the air injection pump started doing its thing again.The check engine light was on so I hooked my code reader up and pulled the following codes:
PO128 (thermostat coolant temp below regulating temp)
PO491 (secondary air injection system (Bank 1)
PO2431 (secondary air intake system FLW/Perf B1
Does all this point to a faulty MAF sensor?
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At idle temperature is above middle. Upper radiator hose, which is connected to the thermostat is hot. Lower radiator hose that feeds back to the engine is cold. Radiator fan will not stop running if the temp guage is at middle to needle above middle. When running the temperature reading is normal at 30 mi/hr (middle to just below middle). Temperature will also go down if at high rpm idle, about 2,500 RPM.
New thermostat replaced last week. Water pump replaced less than one year ago. Upper radiator and lower radiator hoses are pressurized when running and off.
I suspect the thermostat was installed incorrectly. Pressurized hoses mean excess air in the cooling circuit/system. If so, does it mean I have to bleed out the air? How do you bleed out the air on a cooling circuit of a car, I thought the reservoir tank already does that naturally? I think the normal range for the temp guage should be 1/3 of the whole range of the guage, right?
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My 2005 2.7L 6 cylinder Sebring with 100800 miles that was running fine just started jerking on me last week. It runs fine untill I get it up to 2750RPMs. Its like its getting gas, then not getting gas and jerks forward all in less than a second and then again, and again and again, until I drop the RPMs back down. Any clue on what I should be looking for?
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Check engine light comes on, car starts "chugging", recovers, chugs, recovers. So we limp to our destination. Check engine light goes off after car stands overnight. Repeat after driving car again. Mechanic replaced a 4" square "switch" somewhere "hot" last time. Said heat makes it go bad. Can't find anything 4" square under the hood. Mechanic says this part goes out all the time on this model and year.
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I have a 2005 Chrysler Sebring. In December the timing belt failed while I was driving down the road. I had the dealership I purchased the car from replace the timing belt as well as the water pump while they were at it. Ever since I have had and issue with it vibrating at idle. At first it was making a whining noise as well. I took it back and they told me that they had installed the belt too tight. Afterwards I still had an idle issue although the vibration was a little different. I also could distinctly hear the belt hitting the casing a few times.
I took it back again and they stated that the belt had been put on too loose. So now they have adjusted the belt again and it I am no longer having the whining or belt hitting the casing. But I still have an idle issue. It has changed again and is kind of a pulsing vibration. I can feel it in the brake pedal when I am at stops. I seem to hear the pulsing while driving as well but this may be from my new tires as well.
During this whole readjustment process they have not mentioned actually checking the timing. Just the belt tension itself. When I first reported the idle issue after they put the timing belt and water pump on they told me that it could not be related to timing and that it had to be an ignition issue. But I asked a work associate who used to work as a mechanic and he stated that it would be a timing issue.
I am going to contact the dealership and ask them to check the timing belt again. I never had this idle issue before the new timing belt.
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2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser. While driving, it seems at random, all gauges drop and stop working, no gas getting to the car, power loss. Sometimes lasts a split second, sometimes lasts up to 30 seconds. The car will even stall here and there, but usually not. Usually, power gets restored. But sometimes the car won't even start for an extended period of time. Of course, when the mechanic takes it for a ride it does nothing wrong.
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My 2005 impala started just fine this morning. Went to car wash(never made it) and the dash gauge lights began to flicker, abs, air bag, battery, brake light, gas gauge went hay wire. It did this intermittently. I checked the battery connection .. No issues ... Checked the charge it reads 14.2 steady even when flickering. The car still runs smooth and continues to start just fine. 3.4 chevy impala 2005 ... 134k
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So I put in an MFA cluster a couple months ago and now all of a sudden the other day it started flashing STOP motor oil pressure low turn off car. It happened twice right in a row. I took the car to my local firestone changed the oil and pulled out. Five mins later it did it again. It only seams to go off when my rpms are really low in second or third gear. I'm guessing it's a bad sensor cause my oil level is fine.
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I have no wipers or windshield washer. when I turn on the wipers I can hear a click in the cowl at the wiper motor. fuses are good #106 30amp fuse and #33 15 amp fuse. I have 12volts at the wiring on the motor left side with key on and 4.5 volts on the green wire with key off. I replaced the wiper motor and same thing, just clicks when I try wipers. I connected a jumper wire to the ground and no luck.
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My father-in-law has a 2008 f-250 with the 5.4. as he was driving a while back all the gauges of the dash quit. The engine still kept running without any noticeable difference but when he shut the engine off and tried to restart, it wouldn't even crank but the security light was flashing. He tried starting it again a few hours later and it started just like normal and ran fine.
He has had this problem occur several times in the last few months, but the other day it repeated the problem again and would not restart for about 5 days. He has tried charging the batteries, changing relays, checking all fuses and finding none blown, scanned it with his code reader, and checked the steering column for bare or rubbed wires.
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I have a 2005 VW Phaeton V6 TDI, with a couple of problems.
Oil temp and Fuel level gauges are not working. Range remaining displayed as "---". Ride height button activates a screen in the infotainment and shows that vehicle is in normal height ride but it won't let me change it to high. Dampening button doesn't activate anything at all. However the button itself works, I've tested it using measuring blocks.Volume and cruise control buttons on the steering wheel don't work although they are illuminated. Buttons that control the MFD work absolutely fine.
I've noticed that my vcds cable cannot connect to the following controllers and they are missing from the autoscan:
Address 07: Control Head
Address 09: Cent. Elect.
Address 17: Instruments
Address 19: CAN Gateway
Address 37: Navigation
Address 47: Sound System
Maybe they all have something in common ? I have no problems connecting to other vehicles or other controllers in this car. Previous owner fitted an instrument cluster from a 2011 VW Phaeton, but it seems to work fine except for the problems stated above.
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I drive a 2005 Chrysler Town and Country with just over 47,000 miles. I noticed that during the last few days, when I start the car, the needles on the fuel, speedometer and temperature gauges go all the way up and then back down. After they finish moving, I then see the engine lights go on and off. Normally, when I start the car, just the engine lights go on and off. The movement of the needles on the gauges is new. This is now happening about every other time I start the car.
The car itself seems to be starting and running just fine. I haven’t noticed any drop off or change in performance. What could be causing this oddity? Is this a warning that something worse is about to happen?
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I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4L dohc and automatic transmission with 115k miles. I recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced. Shop left the front 2 engine mounting bolts off and the rear one loose. Picked up car after business hours drove it that evening and kept hearing a strange metallic squeak.Returned it to the shop the next morning and as i was driving it began to smoke and stall with the temp gauge pegged. They had also left a hose to the heater core disconnected. Could the engine not being mounted to the chassis and/ or the overheating have damaged the transmission.
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Got a bit of a problem with my car. Earlier this week, I got in and noticed there was heavy condensation on the inside of the windshield of my 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible. The windows had been rolled up and the top up of course. I see this kind of condensation happen on the outside a lot in the mornings. You know, dew settling and all that. If I wait around until later in the day, it evaporates on its own.
Anyway, this time it was on the INSIDE. I wiped it clean easily enough and was on my way.
Today I noticed that my heater wasn't working. The temperature gauge goes up to about 1/3 of the way, so I know the car is warming up. I'm not sure if it normally goes up that high; I don't usually pay much attention to the temperature gauge.
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I have an '06 Sebring convertible, 2.7l, V-6, 58,000 miles. When stopped with A/C on, car tends to surge. When I put in neutral, surging stops. Also, I sometimes get a "thump" (with both sound and feel) like I've been rear-ended, but have not. Dealer did tranny serivce and replaced all plugs and 2 coils which they said were "arcing". Did not fix problem. What would be wrong with A/C so as to cause this?
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