Sebring - Chrysler :: 2005 - Air Injection Pump Draining Battery
Jun 22, 2014
A couple of weeks ago, with the car turned off, keys out of the ignition - about every thirteen seconds you could hear the air injection pump coming on, running for a couple of seconds and then turning off. The next day the car battery was dead (no surprise) so we charged it up and took it to the shop (AAA) . They told us that it was a faulty MAP sensor and didn't give us a price quote to fix it, just an invoice/diagnostic bill. But they did unplug the air injection pump so that the battery wouldn't keep getting drained.
We drove the car home and called them the next day to get an estimate for the repair and they said that they misdiagnosed the problem and that it was actually a MAF sensor that was causing the air injection pump to come on when the car was turned off and that it would cost around 500 dollars for the part and labor. Too steep so we decided to hold off on the repair. Understanding our reluctance to go through with the repair, they recommended that we plug the air injection pump back in and still drive the car but to make sure that we unhook the battery at night/when the car would be sitting for many hours without being started.
Here's where it gets a little confusing (or at least for me). I did take AAA's advice and went ahead and plugged the air injection pump back in and for the last couple of weeks it's been fine. No issues with the battery being drained whatsoever/no air injection pump coming on with the car turned off. But today the air injection pump started doing its thing again.The check engine light was on so I hooked my code reader up and pulled the following codes:
PO128 (thermostat coolant temp below regulating temp)
PO491 (secondary air injection system (Bank 1)
PO2431 (secondary air intake system FLW/Perf B1
Does all this point to a faulty MAF sensor?
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I just bought a 2005 Chrysler Sebring sedan 2 weeks ago, has 94,000miles on it. Had no problems with anything until 6 days after purchasing the car. I just got on the highway & was about a mile onto the highway & I was already up to speed 65mph & my whole car just starts jerking (bucking like a horse) & I let off the gas & it'd stop. I'd give it gas again & it would start to jerk(buck) again; I had to get to work so I drove it for the couple miles I had left to get to work.
As I got onto the off ramp I noticed my car didn't jerk/buck like it was at the higher speed. After work I drove back home & on the highway without any problems. I also didn't have any warning lights come on while it was jerking/bucking. (Before this incident, I had drove to my moms, which is 1hr & 45min away, & back with no problems). I took it to a local mechanic & they found nothing wrong, & they test drove it & checked all the fluids/filters/spark plugs. I did need new front break pads & rotors so I had them change those.
Four days later my car did it again.. the jerking/bucking. But this time it was at a low speed & I noticed a ding(like the kind of ding your car makes if you don't have your seat belt on), but again I saw no warning lights come on. I kept driving & was almost to get onto the highway & was about 20mph & my car started to jerk/buck again. I thought it might be nothing so I kept driving to get onto the highway. I turned onto the highway onramp & started going 20-25mph & my car started to jerk/buck like a horse & not let me accelerate any faster.
So I pulled onto the onramp shoulder & turned my car off then back on again & let it sit for about 5 minutes & got on the highway & it was like my car had magically been fixed. I got up to speed (65mph) just fine with no jerking/bucking. Again this time none of my warning lights came on & I didn't have any smoke coming out the back end. I of course immediately went strait home, but had not signs of the jerking/bucking. My car also when I start it, all of my dash warning lights come on like they normally would whenever you start up your car, so I know they all work.
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At idle temperature is above middle. Upper radiator hose, which is connected to the thermostat is hot. Lower radiator hose that feeds back to the engine is cold. Radiator fan will not stop running if the temp guage is at middle to needle above middle. When running the temperature reading is normal at 30 mi/hr (middle to just below middle). Temperature will also go down if at high rpm idle, about 2,500 RPM.
New thermostat replaced last week. Water pump replaced less than one year ago. Upper radiator and lower radiator hoses are pressurized when running and off.
I suspect the thermostat was installed incorrectly. Pressurized hoses mean excess air in the cooling circuit/system. If so, does it mean I have to bleed out the air? How do you bleed out the air on a cooling circuit of a car, I thought the reservoir tank already does that naturally? I think the normal range for the temp guage should be 1/3 of the whole range of the guage, right?
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My 2005 2.7L 6 cylinder Sebring with 100800 miles that was running fine just started jerking on me last week. It runs fine untill I get it up to 2750RPMs. Its like its getting gas, then not getting gas and jerks forward all in less than a second and then again, and again and again, until I drop the RPMs back down. Any clue on what I should be looking for?
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Check engine light comes on, car starts "chugging", recovers, chugs, recovers. So we limp to our destination. Check engine light goes off after car stands overnight. Repeat after driving car again. Mechanic replaced a 4" square "switch" somewhere "hot" last time. Said heat makes it go bad. Can't find anything 4" square under the hood. Mechanic says this part goes out all the time on this model and year.
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I have a 2005 Chrysler Sebring. In December the timing belt failed while I was driving down the road. I had the dealership I purchased the car from replace the timing belt as well as the water pump while they were at it. Ever since I have had and issue with it vibrating at idle. At first it was making a whining noise as well. I took it back and they told me that they had installed the belt too tight. Afterwards I still had an idle issue although the vibration was a little different. I also could distinctly hear the belt hitting the casing a few times.
I took it back again and they stated that the belt had been put on too loose. So now they have adjusted the belt again and it I am no longer having the whining or belt hitting the casing. But I still have an idle issue. It has changed again and is kind of a pulsing vibration. I can feel it in the brake pedal when I am at stops. I seem to hear the pulsing while driving as well but this may be from my new tires as well.
During this whole readjustment process they have not mentioned actually checking the timing. Just the belt tension itself. When I first reported the idle issue after they put the timing belt and water pump on they told me that it could not be related to timing and that it had to be an ignition issue. But I asked a work associate who used to work as a mechanic and he stated that it would be a timing issue.
I am going to contact the dealership and ask them to check the timing belt again. I never had this idle issue before the new timing belt.
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It's a 2005 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4 DOHC. A couple weeks ago I tried to use the wipers and nothing happened - at all. The next day the gauges inside the car went hay wire, started flashing on and off. Turned out the car needed a new battery and alternator. Replaced both and the car has been perfectly fine - except for the wipers. I checked the wiper fuse and it wasn't blown so I pulled the cowl, unplugged the motor, turned the key on, turned the wiper switch to full speed and then tested for voltage at the plug and got almost 12 volts when testing several terminal combinations.
I thought for sure I had it figured out so went ahead and bought a remanufactured wiper motor but nothing happened when I plugged it in. I thought maybe since I didn't mount it it wasn't grounded so went ahead and did that and still nothing. Thinking maybe it was defective I returned it and went to a different auto parts store and bought another one, hooked it up and got the same results. So then I tested all nine relays in the relay control center and they all passed. So now I'm thinking the only thing left to test is the wiper switch. Am I correct?
And also I'd love to bench test the original motor just to verify that it works but don't know which terminals to connect to. I've searched the internet with two different browsers and came up with nothing. The motor in question is a Bosch 05-02-14 41. And then underneath it has 0390 241 7411 12V 058 written on it. The terminals are labeled: 31b, 31, 53 and 53b. And since the OE replacement motor for this car is a Cardone 40-3026, which terminals to use to bench test that one, I could then figure out which terminals to use on the Bosch.
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my wife now drives what was originally my 2005 Honda Civic from '05-'10. In the last 3 or so years since she's been driving it, the Civic has developed a tendency to die on her at inopportune times. A quick jump always fixes the problem but I never, ever had this problem myself when I was driving it and I've had the battery tested at AutoZone twice with both techs telling me the battery was in great shape with cranking amps well above its rating. I've offered to just buy a new battery and eliminate the issue but the "it's fine" report from AZ has me puzzled.
I have noticed that corrosion tends to build up on her positive battery terminal very quickly and I suspect she's getting some drain due to that but I'm stymied as to why it happens. The only thing (and its a stretch) that I can think of is she has a habit that her father taught her of cranking the heat, the defroster AND the A/C in her car when it's cold out. Normally I wouldn't think this would make a difference but I wonder if there is somehow condensation developing in that tiny little Civic engine bay as a result?
I've asked her not to do it and see if the situation improves but old habits die hard. The battery does tend to come up dead (of course) more in the winter but it's not an exclusively cold weather situation. Anyway, after jumping her car in single digits this morning before dawn I am ready to admit defeat and just get a new battery but figured I'd throw it out to the many voices here.
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Consequently, I have them investigating 2 other issues and I'm wondering if any of them may be related. One- I am having issues depressing the shift button to get the vehicle out of park (also more of a problem in the morning during the first start). Two- on occasion my key sticks in the lock cylinder when I shut off the engine and try to pull the key out. I spent some time online researching all of the above and it seems that there could be some issue with the ignition switch or a bad solenoid somewhere in the circuit... then again, maybe not? The only other bits of info I can offer since owning the vehicle are that I was having some issue with the rear hatch door. I kept getting the "door ajar" light after using the back hatch.. but I'm pretty sure that was due to my own stupidity because the main door release and the top window release are right next to each other and I may have pressed the wrong one- slamming the back hatch hard took care of the light. The other thing is I followed the manual instructions and deactivated the seat belt alarms because I can't stand the seat belt reminder beeping at me when I forget my seatbelt.
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I have a 2005 Chrysler town and country minivan. After filling it at the pump the van will go a short distance and die. It will have a hard time starting and then run fine, until I fill it again.
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Where the secondary air injection pump is? I'm getting P1411 & P1423 codes.
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Got a bit of a problem with my car. Earlier this week, I got in and noticed there was heavy condensation on the inside of the windshield of my 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible. The windows had been rolled up and the top up of course. I see this kind of condensation happen on the outside a lot in the mornings. You know, dew settling and all that. If I wait around until later in the day, it evaporates on its own.
Anyway, this time it was on the INSIDE. I wiped it clean easily enough and was on my way.
Today I noticed that my heater wasn't working. The temperature gauge goes up to about 1/3 of the way, so I know the car is warming up. I'm not sure if it normally goes up that high; I don't usually pay much attention to the temperature gauge.
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I have an '06 Sebring convertible, 2.7l, V-6, 58,000 miles. When stopped with A/C on, car tends to surge. When I put in neutral, surging stops. Also, I sometimes get a "thump" (with both sound and feel) like I've been rear-ended, but have not. Dealer did tranny serivce and replaced all plugs and 2 coils which they said were "arcing". Did not fix problem. What would be wrong with A/C so as to cause this?
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2000 Chrysler Sebring Convt quit while driving. Tow truck drive and a mechanic at scene of breakdown felt itt seemed like it wasn't getting gas. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, 2 sets of plugs ans it won't start and when it did it ran rough and then fouled out new set of plugs. Seemed like too much fuel going to cylinder.
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