I'm attempting to replace a front wheel bearing and hub assembly on a 2004 Chrysler Sebring. I've removed all the hub bolts and all other more external components. I've tried hammering the assembly, reinserting the bolts partially and hammering those, a slide hammer, liquid wrench...
View 9 RepliesI have removed knuckle assembly and pressed out bearing hub assembly, I have the new bearing hub assembly..... I live in Iowa so there is corrosion on the knuckle assembly - I have removed enough that the new bearing assembly will go in....
My question/concern : With the corrosion removed the surface of the knuckle where the bearing will seat is not uniform all the way around. The bearing hub assembly will go in and will require pressure to do so but will the bearing last? I can buy a steering knuckle but do not want to if I don't have to.
How to remove this type of connector from the brake light switch? I've tried just about everything at this point. Sheer force alone doesn't work. There has to be some type of release mechanism I'm not seeing that allows it to disconnect.
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I have 2012 Impala and hit a pot hole blowing out the left front tire but rim was not damaged, replaced the tire. Now the shop tells me that the wheel bearing has been damaged and the hub/bearing assembly needs to be replaced. I've never seen this happen. Is it possible that the bearing got damaged?
View 11 RepliesThis past week I changed out the front wheel bearing hub assemblys on both sides. I'm curious if completely disassembled one of the units? If so what did you use to get the large nut with the 4 notches in it off?
View 2 RepliesHow can you tell when your wheel bearing/hub assembly is going bad? I am hearing what sounds like "metal-on-metal" and I've already changed the brake pads, but the sound still persists. I was thinking about changing out the brake rotors since I did notice an inch long score on the rotor when I was replacing the pads. I don't want to spend a couple hundred dollars on rotors to find out it was my wheel bearing/hub assembly all along.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4L dohc and automatic transmission with 115k miles. I recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced. Shop left the front 2 engine mounting bolts off and the rear one loose. Picked up car after business hours drove it that evening and kept hearing a strange metallic squeak.Returned it to the shop the next morning and as i was driving it began to smoke and stall with the temp gauge pegged. They had also left a hose to the heater core disconnected. Could the engine not being mounted to the chassis and/ or the overheating have damaged the transmission.
View 3 RepliesI have 2004 chrysler sebring and lately when I'm at a light/stop sign the rpm gauge fluctuates between 1000 and 500 and wants to stall. I've been told to change the spark plugs and wires, cleaned the throttle body, and put in a new air filter. What else I should do?
View 1 RepliesI've gone over every square inch of the rear seats, from both inside and from the trunk, and can't figure out how to fold the back seats down... Usually, there is some kind of latch that you pull, but all I find are baby seat restraints. And from the trunk, I can't find anything. Do these seats fold down at all?
View 8 RepliesMy 2004 Chrysler Sebring with 128K miles is making a loud whirring noise when I accelerate. It does not happen when I break, coast or am idle. I live in a city and potholes are a way of life. I got four new tires in November and had the alignment checked and fixed at the time. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesI have 2004 Chrysler Sebring base model 4 cylinder with 90,000 miles. Paid off long ago. The schedule says its time to change the timing belt but no symptoms. No other issues and have kept up the maintenance. The cost is around $1000. I need the car to last 2 more years until our new car is paid off. Should I do the repair or play the odds that it won't break down?
View 19 RepliesI have been driving a 2004 Chrysler Sebring for a few months and noticed that it didn't always stay in gear. I then learned of a problem with another Chrysler model in which there is a "false park" between park and reverse where it seems like the car is in park but it really isn't, and the car will pop into reverse and move. I am not sure if I have the same defect or if there is something else wrong with my car. Sometimes the shifter will move out of park, or even out of drive, with the slightest of nudges of the shifter. There is a button on the shifter that is supposed to be depressed in order to shift, but sometimes it can be moved from park to any other gear, not just reverse, without depressing it or having a foot on the brake. I also found that it would move from drive to neutral while the car was in motion.
View 3 RepliesMy passsenger side rear wheel hub assembly needs replacing and I am having trouble removing it. I have removed the rotor, the 4 bolts holding the hub, applied generous amounts of pb blaster, and struck it vigorously with a 3 pound hammer. Also, how to release the abs connection.
View 5 RepliesIf I make a right turn at anything above a snail's pace, my emergency brake light comes on and it chimes. Had the brakes checked and they are fine for now but since they are original, they will need to be replaced soon. The car has 50,000 miles. Recently had the cam sensor replaced and the dealership checked the car over.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 Sebring. The A/C had been working intermittently, now not at all. When it was working, if I went over a big bump or hit a pothole, it would stop blowing cold. Now it will not blow cold through the dash vents, but the defroster still blows cold so I believe there is enough coolant. The mechanic has discouraged me from investigating saying it will be very expensive to take the car apart to diagnose.
View 1 RepliesIs it hard to remove the headlamp assembly. I am only asking because i am considering purchasing smoked/blackened headlamps and tailights on ebay.
View 14 RepliesMy friend's '04 Sebring is still overheating even after these steps have been taken: heads were warped -- had a professional shave them down and rebuild engine; new radiator; new thermostat; then removed thermostat to try this way, and bled the system for air bubbles (more than once).
The car can run about five miles - then bubbling/boiling in the water recovery tank. The mechanic said there is a small crack on the water reservoir (a small plastic box) near where the bolt connects to the engine. Could this crack affect the pressure of the system and cause this overheating?
Every so often my rear cargo door handle is impossible to open. I can hear the lock mechanism lock/unlock but the handle won't compress to open the door. I had a mechanic get in it the other day by removing the inside panel. He states I need a new cable assembly. I have ordered one using our discount from Sewell. I have since come across a TSB about the actuator being an issue. I'm assuming my mechanic would know the difference. He said the cable is stretched and it makes the handle travel too far to engage. I'll try the cable at $35 delivered before the whole mechanism for $250 delivered.
View 8 RepliesI've had some awful noise coming from the front drivers side of my car. Determining the likly cause to be the wheel bearing, I decided to tackle replacing the hub assembly as a lovely weekend project. Things were going along ok - Removed brake caliper, removed the axle nut (that wasn't fun), removed the rotor (rather persistently stuck on, but it gave in the end), and then came removing the hub assembly itself. Had a rented hub puller, put it on, started tightening it down and tapping on the hub as I went. It was getting pretty tight on there (was starting to worry about the safety of the cv shaft), and then as I tapped on the hub one last time, the hub and hub puller popped off the car... I was elated, until I realized rather than pulling the entire hub assembly out, it had actually separated the inner track of the bearing from the outer track, leaving the wheel bearing and flange behind inside the steering knuckle.
So, here I sit, with half my hub assembly on the ground and the other half still in the car. How to get the rest of the hub assembly out, now that there is nothing to really pull on? I've tapped around on it for a couple hours, and soaked it in enough penetrating oil to make the car flamable, but no give. I've even tried putting the hub bolts back in through the back and tapping on them with a hammer to no avail (probably going to have to replace the bolts now, but one problem at a time).
I'm replacing the rear hub/bearing assembly on my 2010 Prius. It seems pretty straight forward. What is the correct torque for the 4 bolts holding it on? Also what is the correct torque for the 2 bolts holding the rear brake caliper on?
View 4 RepliesGot a bit of a problem with my car. Earlier this week, I got in and noticed there was heavy condensation on the inside of the windshield of my 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible. The windows had been rolled up and the top up of course. I see this kind of condensation happen on the outside a lot in the mornings. You know, dew settling and all that. If I wait around until later in the day, it evaporates on its own.
Anyway, this time it was on the INSIDE. I wiped it clean easily enough and was on my way.
Today I noticed that my heater wasn't working. The temperature gauge goes up to about 1/3 of the way, so I know the car is warming up. I'm not sure if it normally goes up that high; I don't usually pay much attention to the temperature gauge.