My 2004 Chrysler Sebring with 128K miles is making a loud whirring noise when I accelerate. It does not happen when I break, coast or am idle. I live in a city and potholes are a way of life. I got four new tires in November and had the alignment checked and fixed at the time. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesI bought a 2006 Sebring convertible in Florida last winter. The driver's car door made a loud crack sound every time I opened it, so I had it fixed in May and returned up north. I have returned to Florida and after a couple of times opening the door with no problems, the loud crack sound started again. Is there another, connecting part, they should have looked at, or replaced, or does it need yet another replacement part?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring with a 2.4L dohc and automatic transmission with 115k miles. I recently had the timing belt and water pump replaced. Shop left the front 2 engine mounting bolts off and the rear one loose. Picked up car after business hours drove it that evening and kept hearing a strange metallic squeak.Returned it to the shop the next morning and as i was driving it began to smoke and stall with the temp gauge pegged. They had also left a hose to the heater core disconnected. Could the engine not being mounted to the chassis and/ or the overheating have damaged the transmission.
View 3 RepliesI have 2004 chrysler sebring and lately when I'm at a light/stop sign the rpm gauge fluctuates between 1000 and 500 and wants to stall. I've been told to change the spark plugs and wires, cleaned the throttle body, and put in a new air filter. What else I should do?
View 1 RepliesI've gone over every square inch of the rear seats, from both inside and from the trunk, and can't figure out how to fold the back seats down... Usually, there is some kind of latch that you pull, but all I find are baby seat restraints. And from the trunk, I can't find anything. Do these seats fold down at all?
View 8 RepliesEngine oil has been changed and spark plugs changed. The engine is still making rattling/clicking noise. I checked with a mechanic and he indicated that engine needs to be repaired. Didn't say exactly what needs to be done and stated it would cost about $2200 for parts and labor. Why the engine keeps rattling and making the noise? Oh, before plugs were changed, the engine was shutting off at times when in idle mode.
View 5 RepliesI have 2004 Chrysler Sebring base model 4 cylinder with 90,000 miles. Paid off long ago. The schedule says its time to change the timing belt but no symptoms. No other issues and have kept up the maintenance. The cost is around $1000. I need the car to last 2 more years until our new car is paid off. Should I do the repair or play the odds that it won't break down?
View 19 RepliesI have been driving a 2004 Chrysler Sebring for a few months and noticed that it didn't always stay in gear. I then learned of a problem with another Chrysler model in which there is a "false park" between park and reverse where it seems like the car is in park but it really isn't, and the car will pop into reverse and move. I am not sure if I have the same defect or if there is something else wrong with my car. Sometimes the shifter will move out of park, or even out of drive, with the slightest of nudges of the shifter. There is a button on the shifter that is supposed to be depressed in order to shift, but sometimes it can be moved from park to any other gear, not just reverse, without depressing it or having a foot on the brake. I also found that it would move from drive to neutral while the car was in motion.
View 3 RepliesIf I make a right turn at anything above a snail's pace, my emergency brake light comes on and it chimes. Had the brakes checked and they are fine for now but since they are original, they will need to be replaced soon. The car has 50,000 miles. Recently had the cam sensor replaced and the dealership checked the car over.
View 6 RepliesI'm attempting to replace a front wheel bearing and hub assembly on a 2004 Chrysler Sebring. I've removed all the hub bolts and all other more external components. I've tried hammering the assembly, reinserting the bolts partially and hammering those, a slide hammer, liquid wrench...
View 9 RepliesI have a 2004 Sebring. The A/C had been working intermittently, now not at all. When it was working, if I went over a big bump or hit a pothole, it would stop blowing cold. Now it will not blow cold through the dash vents, but the defroster still blows cold so I believe there is enough coolant. The mechanic has discouraged me from investigating saying it will be very expensive to take the car apart to diagnose.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Chrysler Sebring. In December the timing belt failed while I was driving down the road. I had the dealership I purchased the car from replace the timing belt as well as the water pump while they were at it. Ever since I have had and issue with it vibrating at idle. At first it was making a whining noise as well. I took it back and they told me that they had installed the belt too tight. Afterwards I still had an idle issue although the vibration was a little different. I also could distinctly hear the belt hitting the casing a few times.
I took it back again and they stated that the belt had been put on too loose. So now they have adjusted the belt again and it I am no longer having the whining or belt hitting the casing. But I still have an idle issue. It has changed again and is kind of a pulsing vibration. I can feel it in the brake pedal when I am at stops. I seem to hear the pulsing while driving as well but this may be from my new tires as well.
During this whole readjustment process they have not mentioned actually checking the timing. Just the belt tension itself. When I first reported the idle issue after they put the timing belt and water pump on they told me that it could not be related to timing and that it had to be an ignition issue. But I asked a work associate who used to work as a mechanic and he stated that it would be a timing issue.
I am going to contact the dealership and ask them to check the timing belt again. I never had this idle issue before the new timing belt.
I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring with 116,000 miles and over the past month the engine has shutoff as I am driving and once I park turn the key off and turn on it has started to run again. This has happened about four times and each time it has been difficult starting it after the car has stalled. The most recent time this happened when I went to restart the car, a grinding noise became apparent. The last few times that I have started the car the grinding noise would be heard only to ultimately fade away in about 15 seconds. The check engine light came on and went to get the code and it came back suggesting a problem with the camshaft position sensor, but I don't fee the noise is related to that.
View 1 RepliesMy friend's '04 Sebring is still overheating even after these steps have been taken: heads were warped -- had a professional shave them down and rebuild engine; new radiator; new thermostat; then removed thermostat to try this way, and bled the system for air bubbles (more than once).
The car can run about five miles - then bubbling/boiling in the water recovery tank. The mechanic said there is a small crack on the water reservoir (a small plastic box) near where the bolt connects to the engine. Could this crack affect the pressure of the system and cause this overheating?
My 2002 Sebring won't start. Here's what happens:
Turn the key in the ignition. Engine makes no noise at all. It's sorta like when the battery died 2 months ago, except this time the power windows and doors work, the headlights and interior lights work, though oddly, the radio doesn't. The radio, FYI, is not the one that came with the car. I bought it back in 2010 after the cassette deck on the original broke and I needed something with an Auxilary connector to connect my Ipod to. I had it professionally installed.
So the car doesn't start. The engine doesn't make any noise. The headlights do come on. The dashboard lights that normally come on when you try to start it up (the check engine light, the airbag light etc., also do not come on at any point. I don't recall any particular clicking sounds when I turn the ignition. I do remember hearing these clicking noises (sort of a quick one time click for each key turn) when the car wouldn't start due to battery/alternator issues two months ago.
So I did a bit of research, and I think it's either the starter solenoid or the ignition switch. Am I far off base?
07 Chrysler Town & Country with 86K. It's been happening off and on for about a year now. On long highway trips when I'm driving fast (maybe more when it's cold), a whirring noise will build up. It starts quiet and can get really loud. When I get off the highway, the engine noise goes down and the whirring noise is really obvious. I take my foot off the accelerator and the whirring noise continues for about 10 seconds. When I hit the gas again (this time at city speeds, 30 mph or so), the whirring noise instantly comes back and can get high pitched and LOUD, almost like an old police siren.
Last time it happened, I popped the hood to track down the source. It seemed to be coming from the engine block. When you're looking down at it, it's coming from the left side, directly under the drive belt (but not the belt).
2007 Chrysler Town & Country, 72k. It's happened twice now. On long interstate trips, over 50 miles, the engine starts to make a loud whirring/humming sound. The temp and RPM gauge looks fine. The first time it happened, I checked the dipstick and it was very low (I was overdue for an oil change). I topped it off and it went away for a few weeks but then it came back, after about 100 miles running it 75 mph or so. Then the oil was fine. Pulled off and let it cool for 30 minutes and it was fine but I drove slower. It seems to come on while I'm on the interstate and the engine noise covers it until I get off and then it's very loud. Maybe it seems to get louder when I take my foot off the gas.
View 4 RepliesI am looking to purchase a 1993 Chrysler New Yorker and when I test drove it I noticed that every time the brake pedal was pushed a mechanical whirring noise was audible. This happened every time the brake was pushed whether the car was moving or not. The car brakes seemed to work fine and there were no other noises associated with normal brake problems. The noise seemed to come from inside the car. What that might be? Also, any other reasons to not buy a 93 New Yorker with about 115,000 miles on it for cheap?
View 1 RepliesMitsubishi Lancer, 2003, 140k miles, auto transmission. About a week ago, I noticed a new noise coming from the engine compartment. It's not very loud, only a little louder than regular road/engine noise. It starts up a second or two after I begin to accelerate, and it winds down a second or two behind the rate at which I slow to a stop. It is constant when I am traveling at speed. The sound is something between a whirring and a growling noise, almost exactly the sound you hear when knobby bicycle tires roll quickly over smooth pavement.
The transmission fluid was about a quart low, and that got filled up, but the noise hasn't changed or stopped since then. I haven't had any problems with shifting out of/into gear. The car does occasionally "slip" out of gear in that when I am traveling slowly (stuck in traffic, usually) and going back and forth between light acceleration, coasting, and braking, once in a while I'll press the gas and the engine will just rev, but it won't engage. If I just let off the pedal, it will "reset" and then it moves just fine. It's done that ever since I bought the car in 2009, and it doesn't do it all that often, and only at those low traffic jam type speeds. So, I don't know if it's related to the noise, which is what I'm more concerned about.
Ive got a 04 f350 that after u shift into 4hi or 4lo when u accelerate it it makes loud clunk noise in fwd or reverse hi or lo. With hubs unlocked it still clunks. Have checked, wheel bearings, axle U-joints, and driveshaft joints all good. So I am thinking I've got issues in t-case. Popped drain plug out and wow that dex merc 4 looks nasty. So thinking I need exploded view of transfer case.
View 4 RepliesI had never been in a Prius until I bought my own 12 months ago. A relatively loud whirring noise accompanied me everywhere I went... "Oh, that's just the electric motor doing its thing!" I would tell myself and my unknowing passengers...
It was my TOTALLY shot tires. Oh sure, they had tons of tread life on them upon purchase, but they lasted a scant 22K miles, got horribly scalloped, developed stress cracks between the treads, and aren't even LRR tires! Indeed, beware of the Bridgestone Potenza Grid019.
The three miles it took to drive home on the TrueContacts were an automotive epiphany. I had no freaking idea how quiet this car really was! Even at highway speed! I feel like a fool.
Well, now I've got an LRR tire, a 6 year/90K warranty, and did it for about 400 total. Shipped to my door for about 350, local place mounted and balanced them for 50.